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Old Oct 24, 2012, 06:20 AM
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I think the main problem is that the blheli software automatically chooses positive input. Walkera boards need negative and when we try to start the esc nothing happens. Thats probably why you needed to tap positive.

Sadsack, the blheli usb stick for 15 shipped. does the same thing as what you are saying and no need to wait to get it from china.

Anyone know where I can find the programing procedure by using the transmitter only?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Tom Z's Avatar
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Programing procedure.

Also: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1744410


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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:19 AM
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sbstnp, I looked at nanoheli's site and found where he soldered his signal wire to. http://translate.google.com/translat...anschluesse%2F if you look down his page you will find a picture of the back of the minicp board. He shows two arrows, the bottom is the signal, what is the top? I translated his writing for the top arrow and it says this "component desoldering and enforce wire bridge" What does that mean? Also, can you show me a picture of where you soldered the signal wire on your minicp? I dont want to solder the signal like nanoheli, I get scared with those little resistors.

I had come to the conclusion yesterday that the xp7a was plug n play and that you could use the signal wire plugged into the brushed motor plug. I couldnt find much about the conversion since itsmillertime wasnt including details. I cannot believe that I missed your post "brushless problem" sbstnp. That post shed a lot of light on the situation. I wonder what is different between the oversky 10a pnp esc compared to the xp7a. Why can the oversky be plugged into the brushed motor port and not the xp7a, the xp3a can.

I started with the idea that I would buy a xp3a flashed with blheli for 20$ then buy the fets to double up. Then I had found a few posts saying that the xp3A is bogging compared to the xp7a. The posts had said the xp3a even with triple fets would bog with a hp06. So that steered me away from the xp3a and toward the xp7a. Now I find out that the xp7a needs to have its input soldered to a fet. Kinda risky solder job but I am up to the task. I hate doing it because I just bought this RX for 70$ two weeks ago.
I am limited to 20$ too many bills etc, So I cannot get the 10amp plug n play from Dylan, But I had also heard a few bad things from the oversky 10amp. I dont know if the newest version is showing the negative performance of what I read about. A few people had mentioned that the walkera esc was faster, and the battery life was longer then the oversky 10amp.
One more thing that almost completely steers me away from going blheli at all is the 2 minutes of flight time with a governed c05. hp05 + blheli esc with a 550mah battery is the way to go but that is more $$ I had read 10 min flights with that setup. All I have are 350mah, 300mah batteries and a lot of them. I will be flying with a rewound c05 so I dont know what kind of performance or runtime I will get. I dont even know if I will be able to get the xp7a to work! I will not have the blheli usb stick so programming it with the transmitter it going to be awful. I havent been able to find any tutorials about programming with the radio.

Thanks tom, I already found that and cannot really understand it.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:33 AM
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Your welcome.
I think I will make a How to video for the programing procedure with a TX as long as I can fiqure it out OK.
Haven't tried it yet, only did programing with the BLheli USB stick and software.


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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
sbstnp, I looked at nanoheli's site and found where he soldered his signal wire to. http://translate.google.com/translat...anschluesse%2F if you look down his page you will find a picture of the back of the minicp board. He shows two arrows, the bottom is the signal, what is the top? I translated his writing for the top arrow and it says this "component desoldering and enforce wire bridge" What does that mean? Also, can you show me a picture of where you soldered the signal wire on your minicp? I dont want to solder the signal like nanoheli, I get scared with those little resistors.

I had come to the conclusion yesterday that the xp7a was plug n play and that you could use the signal wire plugged into the brushed motor plug. I couldnt find much about the conversion since itsmillertime wasnt including details. I cannot believe that I missed your post "brushless problem" sbstnp. That post shed a lot of light on the situation. I wonder what is different between the oversky 10a pnp esc compared to the xp7a. Why can the oversky be plugged into the brushed motor port and not the xp7a, the xp3a can.

I started with the idea that I would buy a xp3a flashed with blheli for 20$ then buy the fets to double up. Then I had found a few posts saying that the xp3A is bogging compared to the xp7a. The posts had said the xp3a even with triple fets would bog with a hp06. So that steered me away from the xp3a and toward the xp7a. Now I find out that the xp7a needs to have its input soldered to a fet. Kinda risky solder job but I am up to the task. I hate doing it because I just bought this RX for 70$ two weeks ago.
I am limited to 20$ too many bills etc, So I cannot get the 10amp plug n play from Dylan, But I had also heard a few bad things from the oversky 10amp. I dont know if the newest version is showing the negative performance of what I read about. A few people had mentioned that the walkera esc was faster, and the battery life was longer then the oversky 10amp.
One more thing that almost completely steers me away from going blheli at all is the 2 minutes of flight time with a governed c05. hp05 + blheli esc with a 550mah battery is the way to go but that is more $$ I had read 10 min flights with that setup. All I have are 350mah, 300mah batteries and a lot of them. I will be flying with a rewound c05 so I dont know what kind of performance or runtime I will get. I dont even know if I will be able to get the xp7a to work! I will not have the blheli usb stick so programming it with the transmitter it going to be awful. I havent been able to find any tutorials about programming with the radio.

Thanks tom, I already found that and cannot really understand it.
Unfortunately XP-7A isn't plug and play. Fortunately you can make it work without spending extra. Do like this:

1. Check http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...5&postcount=17. Solder a wire on the point marked as (2) - pin on the double FET on the back. Signal enters as positive in this FET. You can also solder at (1) if you don't have a solder iron with a small enough tip.
2. Connect the wire to the white point on the XP-7A.
3. If your ESC has come configured for NEGATIVE input, just reverse the throttle channel on the TX.

If you did this correctly you should be all set. That's exactly how I did it at first, then I re-programmed the ESC for positive input using an Arduino. I don't really recommend doing it from TX as it is very hard to follow the beeps.

But, you can get away without spending any money, with exactly what you have.

Good luck

My flight times were around 5 minutes back when I started, then they got down to around 3:30-4, I don't know why, maybe I push it a bit harder or my lipos are getting old or something in my wiring. I found that my c05m rubbed against the servo, probably I din't seat the servo properly last time I took this thing apart, maybe that's what it was.

I think you won't get less flight time than stock.

Edit: I'm traveling currently but I have the 10A waiting for me back home. I'll do a test this weekend and see how it is compared to the 7A. I'm not completely happy with the 11500kv C05M, doesn't have much more power than stock and sometimes it bogs down, even with an 8t pinion. Probably I'll upgrade sometimes, I don't have the patience to re-wire motors like you mescalinedream

I also think I have some problems with my wires, probably I'll solder everything in place as I currently still use some connectors.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Well I just heard back from Dylan at asteroid. He is going to program the xp7a with the same settings as his own. He is using a xp7a in his minicp with a bockman c05 motor(more then likely) He is also sending me pictures or where to solder. I had also asked him to take a screenshot of the blheli settings. I will post everything here or somewhere else to help the next person. This blheli info needs to be more easily available for the minicp.
Dylan also mentioned that he thinks the 10amp might have a small driver FET between the signal input and MCU, he also said that there is a resistor between the signal and positive.So that is the secret to get the plug n play. He had also said to try adding a pull-up resistor to the XP-7A input but he isnt sure of the value or the effect it would have on the XP-7A's MCU in the long term.

We will figure it all out, I wont, ..... but someone else will!
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 11:48 AM
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Hey guys, I decided to check the gears on my servos and was wondering about the length of my servo links. The forward servo's link is longer then the back two. Are yours similar? I do need a bit of aileron subtrim to get the mini to hover hands off. Does anyone else on here need a bit of subtrim? Are your links equal?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
Hey guys, I decided to check the gears on my servos and was wondering about the length of my servo links. The forward servo's link is longer then the back two. Are yours similar? I do need a bit of aileron subtrim to get the mini to hover hands off. Does anyone else on here need a bit of subtrim? Are your links equal?
No subtrim. Links equal, swash level. Just take all apart and make them equal. Then make sure you have zero pitch at middle by adjusting the 2 links going to the blade grips. I do this by setting a flat zero pitch curve in TH so I don't have to eyeball center stick perfectly
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:22 PM
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The problem with mine is that not all my servo arms are at 90 degrees. To make the swash level from the servos up I have to have the front servo link longer.

Nevermind, I tried another servo arm and its even. I have been flying my minicp that way for way too long. I am certain that it must of made the heli fly negatively . The reason why I needed to check my gears in the first place was because I had to keep reseating two servos. I just started flying my heli again since I bought my new RX. Been since May since I had flown it. I had painted my heli all neon including the links. The threads that were on that front link werent showing paint so I must of messed with it right before the RX died.

I also installed rubber o-rings on the swashplate balls, right behind where the servo end links snap on. I had a lot of play before that, everything is perfect now.


Edit one more time, ,,,, the difference in flight is amazing.I have crazy pop now. My battery life is longer too. I couldnt figure out why my motor wasnt performing like it was before. I had checked before I fixed the links etc and my pitch was not equal at 0. Now that it is it seems the heli is 2 times stronger/faster/better I dont know where it all went wrong, why I had them the way they were , I am just glad its all fixed and I am just awed by how it is flying. A rewound c05 is a wonderful thing!
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 06:10 PM
Brent 黑雁
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I been looking for some nice bright yellow blades and a light color canopy for the minicp.
I have not had much luck. Anyone have any ideas.

I had a strange one tonight. I was flying for a couple of minutes, landed to set on stunt 1, went to take off and Heli shot to the right. I checked and found the pitch servo stuck at the top of travel. It was struck so hard I could not move by hand.
I took the servo apart to check for stripped gears and found nothing wrong. I put the servo back together and it worked fine again. I think one of the shafts worked its way out of the small aligning divits in the cover causing gear binding.
These servos are really cheap, not as good as a 3.00 hobby king. Anyone found any better servos that might fit?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:32 PM
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I think itsmillertime reported successfully rewiring two different HK Servos to get them to work with the Mini. I had both of their Part Numbers on a shopping list on my computer, then lost the list when my hard drive crashed. Maybe you can do a search for posts by "itsmillertime" in this thread (or Tom Z's Mini Review thread") using the term "servo". If I remember correctly, he had to swap-and-resolder a couple pairs of Servo wires, the most difficult pair being the "Pot" wires inside the Servo. I'm thinking, he may also have had to modify the Servo Arm?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:42 PM
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mod for hk servos http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1562262
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Here is a link with a picture of the black 5320 servos installed in the minicp http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...76&postcount=9

bthirstk I had read somewhere that the newer servos with the black sharpie mark get stuck at full travel. I just read it yesterday and I cannot seem to find it now. I read it on here or on helifreak. Do a search for "minicp stuck sharpie" maybe you will find it.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 08:57 AM
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I am the one who posted about the servos getting stuck at full travel
when you plug in the heli but after they bind they are OK.
This is posted on here and helifreak. I also made a video of it.
It happens with any color sharpie mark on the servo plug.
Even happens with no sharpie mark which I have one now in my Mini CP.

Tom
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:44 AM
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Here is a new motor by AEO same people who make the c05/m5. The people on helifreak who are flying it in the mcpx are saying that its a lot more powerful then the stock c05. Some people who compared the two had said that a m5/c05 with 7mm tail has better tail holding ability then the hummingbird motor with 7mm tail. The stronger the motor the more the tail wants to blow out. Here is the link to a sort of review at helifreak, here it is for sale on topcopter http://www.topcopter.com/AEO-13000kv...tor-p/3352.htm

Personally I would either get a hp05 , hp07 or hp06 for real extreme power. The hp05 itsmillertime was using and was getting 10minutes of flight on a 550mah battery. That is with more power then a c05 too! The c05/m5 they seem to be comparing the hummingbird motor to is the 11,000kv c05. There is a newer c05 out that is 13,000kv and is much more powerful. There is also the bockman motor which is probably the same as the 13,000kv c05. I have not looked but the hp03 16,600kv motor that might do well in the mini. Anyone know of more?
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