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Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:50 AM
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I had read that the smaller xp3 amp esc with doubled fets is better then the xp7a. I like the idea of using the 3amp since its lighter. I dont like the idea of buying a usb stick to use the blheli software though. I am usually broke and that is just more money steering me away from the whole thing.
I am really excited to see how this motor behaves though http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...p#post21628930 . I am using the 29 1/2 gauge wire motor still. And plan to use it goverened with the blheli software. I did rewind a crazy c05 which one cell battery drains in a minute with the rpms screaming. I was actually scared that the heli would tear itself apart running it. That motor is really destined for a high mah 2cell battery though and there isnt one small enough to fit in the tray on the mini.

I hit the limit of my rewinding skills on the c05/m5 motor. I just couldnt fit any more turns. I would love to try rewinding a hp06 to see what kind of power could be had. I love the idea of rewinding the smaller hp03 main motor, not the tail motor version.

"Crash survivor" I have the devo 7 which is almost a nightmare to deal with the menu settings. I have no idea how to setup a mix . I will need to do some reading on how to manage it.

If you guys have been reading my posts then you will see that I had just bought a new receiver for my minicp. It seems that the new receiver seems to handle the tail a whole lot better. I dont know for certain if the new rx has the updated software installed onto it and I dont have the upgrade tool to find out either. I also havent had the chance to flip the mini with the new receiver. That is when the tail usually blows out. I had read that the new software on the rx also makes inverted funnels a whole lot better/easier. So the new software does do something to the flight characteristics, I cant do a inverted funnel to find out if the software is the newer version either.

Thanks for the responses too, I appreciate them!
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 03:52 PM
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Hey mescaline have you tried the bockman motor? I heard it's faster than the C05 by a bit.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 04:09 PM
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Just tried mix to throttle to rudder & program mix, master throttle & slave rudder using a curve & no curve normal to keep the tail from blowing out did not work. With a pitch curve L-60, 1 Inhibit, 2 -30, M 0, 3 +30, 4 Inhibit, H +60 & a flat 85% throttle curve with a HP05 & nano-tech 300mah 35C my tail only blows out around 20 degrees on a hard pitch pump, 95% flat throttle curve hard pitch pump 45 degrees. I can live with that cause all I'm up to as of now is flip to inverted, hover around a little bit & flip back which does not require hard pitch pumps.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Peteair, yeah I have the bockman motor, my motor's are faster. Bockman motor is better then the stock c05 though, by a long shot.
It sometimes took me a few days just to rewind one c05 motor since shorts are so common. I also had to epoxy the wires in or else the magnets on the bell would hit them. The c05 motor is limited to a certain amount of turns since its so small. I also think upgraded magnets would help in trying to get the most performance out of the c05.
The real power to be had is from the hp06. Its too bad though that a hp06 cost around twice as much as a c05.

Crash survivor, hey thanks for trying!
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 05:00 PM
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San Jacinto, California
Joined Jan 2004
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New MINI Owner (Swash Question)

Was flying in my kitchen(not a very big area) probably should not have done that but anyways...I damage my swash and was just wondering about replacement.
I noticed @ Wow hobbies they have various swash replacments, metal,aluminum and then the stock plastic. I know that the first two are probably
heavier than the original plastic, just how much, I don't know because they give no information on weight. I'm running the brushless c05 motor, so is it advisable to go with a little heavier swash or just sitck with the lightweight plastic???
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 08:49 PM
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Only time I broke a stock swash was from a 40' nose dive from a tree and it went through a lot of nasty crashes. I "upgraded" to the Xtreme swash and broke the inner pitch link balls off with a very minor crash.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmillertime View Post
Only time I broke a stock swash was from a 40' nose dive from a tree and it went through a lot of nasty crashes. I "upgraded" to the Xtreme swash and broke the inner pitch link balls off with a very minor crash.
So if I read into that....just stay with the plastic.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 08:04 PM
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Hey! I've just bought Wow's brushless kit with C05... and it has plenty of power... but sometimes in midair I have complete power loss for about 1 sec, and then it goes up again, but 1 sec of no power always end up in a crash. After crashing, it flies again with no problem...until it does it again...
Have you ever heard about that issue?
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dariobrit View Post
Hey! I've just bought Wow's brushless kit with C05... and it has plenty of power... but sometimes in midair I have complete power loss for about 1 sec, and then it goes up again, but 1 sec of no power always end up in a crash. After crashing, it flies again with no problem...until it does it again...
Have you ever heard about that issue?
Triple check connectors. Are you sure it is power and not pitch servo or aything else?
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 04:20 AM
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Too much air gap between Pinion and Main Gear?

Too much up-and-down slop between Main Gear and Main Shaft Collar?
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 05:15 AM
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My 300mah nanotechs are toast. I bought 6 of them, 1 puffed after second cycle, rest only give me around 1:30 flight time. I still have some no name 350mah which are still going strong. All are cycled equally with about 30 cycles on each, my Imax B6 puts back in around 140mah so they're definately goners.

Guess I need to find some new batteries.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Too much air gap between Pinion and Main Gear?

Too much up-and-down slop between Main Gear and Main Shaft Collar?
Thanks for the ideas...
I'm not sure about the gap between pinion and gear, may be I can tighten it a bit.

The collar is well tight, almost no movement.

The pitch servos are fine, in fact, I flying stationary, just doing a simple hover and I can hear the motor shutting off, so I'm sure it a power problem...

Could be a bad ESC? I have another miniCP board, today I'm gonna try it, just in case.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dariobrit View Post
Thanks for the ideas...
I'm not sure about the gap between pinion and gear, may be I can tighten it a bit.

The collar is well tight, almost no movement.

The pitch servos are fine, in fact, I flying stationary, just doing a simple hover and I can hear the motor shutting off, so I'm sure it a power problem...

Could be a bad ESC? I have another miniCP board, today I'm gonna try it, just in case.
I ran across a similar problem. It appears 80% throttle curve reacts strange to the mini CP. At 80% itís very low power canít even maintain a hover. I can set my TX below & above 80% & all is well. Donít think itís my TX because I use an 80% flat curve on my V120D02S with my Devo 8 on sts1 & it does fine. Only thing I can figure is the ESC/HP05 combo or RX canít handle an 80% throttle curve.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:39 AM
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Could be that the % of the throttle is not the same that the ESC does... I've heard that 80% from the transmitter is not an actual 80% power with C05...
...but don't think it's my case... I'm hovering, hands free (not touching any stick) and the power drops to 0. If I'm flying high enough, it can self recover (without touching any stick), if not it ends in the ground.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:20 PM
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Sounds like electrical problem.

Maybe Motor mount screws are too long and scraping internal Motor windings? Why a Motor's internal winding would only electrically short to mounting Screw and fail at 80% throttle may have something to do with somekind of maximum resonant rpm wobbling that occurs at 80% throttle?

To troubleshoot and isolate electrical problems without test equipment, I'd try to reproduce the failure on the bench. If I could reproduce the problem at will, then I'd replace an electrical part one item at a time with a known good part. In this case, I'd start with the Main Motor, and progress backwards to the LiPo.

I think most intermittent electrical problems are caused by metal parts not making solid electrical contact (i.e. broken wire, cracked solder joints, etc) and sometimes the weak electrical contact only becomes noticeable after thermal expansion, vibration, or flexing.

If it truly only fails at 80% throttle, and not any other %, and were certain the TX was good, then I'd suspect an electrical "programming" type of problem with the ESC or RX. I don't know much about Motor control circuitry, so can't think of an electrical failure scenario that would only fail (electrical short or open ?) at 80% throttle.
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Last edited by i812; Oct 19, 2012 at 02:27 PM.
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