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Old Sep 07, 2012, 01:15 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
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My guess is yellow. Green might be less obvious when flying before the trees.
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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Different needs for different folks. What about the guys wanting something they can comfortably do 3D indoors. I am sure the nCPX would be welcomed. More options is a good thing.
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 02:36 PM
rldeveer's Avatar
Big Island of Hawaii
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Xermalk
Watch out for those blades taking out your blade grips without modification. Fold them back, you'll see what I mean.
RD
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by rldeveer View Post
Xermalk
Watch out for those blades taking out your blade grips without modification. Fold them back, you'll see what I mean.
RD
Oh, why would they take out the blade grips? (haven't ordered anything yet)
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 05:47 PM
rldeveer's Avatar
Big Island of Hawaii
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Originally Posted by Xermalk View Post
Oh, why would they take out the blade grips? (haven't ordered anything yet)
Note there is very little cut out on the trailing edge of the KBDD main blades.
If you get a blade strike, the trailing edge can hit the servo link where it attaches to the blade grip ball. After a few hits, the ball was toast.

Cut out the trailing edge to match the stock blade at that end and you will be fine.

RD
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 06:09 AM
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My mini always picks up speed backwards whenever i turn/piro. is this intended? And could it be countered with program mixing?
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:24 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
The Netherlands
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Originally Posted by Xermalk View Post
My mini always picks up speed backwards whenever i turn/piro. is this intended? And could it be countered with program mixing?
When you turn CCW, right? And picks up speed when going CW? That's normal for these small single rotors. The mSR had special on board mixing for it, and on helis like the Solo Pro 260/270, the pilot has to counter this with some elevator. Considering the mSR it's possible to mix it out, but it might introduce other handling quirks...
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 02:31 PM
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yeah you definately have to add in more cyclic when you're turning against the main blades. It's a little different and it's easier at first to turn right cause it pulls itself through pretty nicely without having to manage elevator cyclic to remain in ff and maintain altitude. At least it's not broken like the msrx. Practice those figure 8 circuits, the transition from cw to ccw will have you comfortable with the difference in no time. Do them till you can keep the whole circuit symmetrical and level.

If you try to program it out you'll probably break something else. Learn to manage it as it is not a condition unique to this model. CCW rudder will always be achieved by utilizing the existing main blade torque with ccw main rotation.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:07 PM
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Problem is that the weather isnt exactly forgiving atm so all i can do is do hover practice indoors.
8 m/s average winds with gusts up to 15 ftl.

Awell, ill see how it turns out, right now im grounded untill my brushless kit + spare servos arrive.

For some strange reason one of the servo connectors have shorted where the wires attach to the servo. I'm praying that short haven't damaged anything, testing with another servo in its port and everything seems to be fine.

It did however completely loose its fixed id when it shorted out, so i had to rebind it and set a new one.

ill get a photo up on how the connector looks tomorrow when i have more light.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 04:14 PM
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bind gets cleared by jumping elevator signal to power. If you shorted it to ground there it would skip anything that wasn't directly connected to analog source voltage. This trace starts @ b+, then to motors, servos, and ends where the tantalum capacitor is coupled to the regulator that provides power for the digital circuits. It's fine.

Those pins can come loose and lose connection without much if any kind of visual cue. You can remove the female connector and connect it or use a pick to release the pins and connect if you need a closer look to verify. Sometimes you'll be able to shift the pin in it's connector. The male connector pins are 3 sided and can make poor contact even with the connector fully seated in the right conditions. You might be able to plug it in at a slight vertical angle and it will operate normally.

If you need to service the connectors the easiest way is to track down the pins and replace them. If you want to service the entire connector assy you should solder a new one to the servo board, those wires are way too thin, brittle, and unreliable if you try to splice one in. If you splice it, expect it to fail soon after without warning, most likely in flight with you helplessly watching it belly flop into the pool.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 05:04 PM
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United States, NC, Franklin
Joined Dec 2002
401 Posts
Problem with Battery/Flight Time solved!

I was using Nano 300's since purchasing my heli last spring, right after the mini became available. Bought if from Wow. Never had the expected flight times, prob 2-3 minutes when nanos were new. They seemed to fall off a cliffby the end of last summer, would only hover a few seconds before getting a low voltage (3.4 volts) alarm, and charged only a few mah.

Ordered new batteries, Hyperion 320,s 1 cell. They flew about 1 1/2 minutes, and took back about 65 mah!

What was the problem?

I ran the heli off a power supply with a digital voltage readout. Without the prop turning the voltage matched my telemetry voltage. When I put it under load, the cp pulls 2 to 2.5 amps restrained in my hand, trying to pull up. The voltage in the mini by telemetry reads several tenths of a volt less than the power source.

I noticed that when you drop the voltage to say 3.5-3.6, the mini is seeing 3.2-3.3, and the torque drops off a cliff. It acts like a battery with no capacity. Either the speed control is cutting back, or the motor has no torque at that voltage. Around 3.0 vdc, not sure exactly, the controller cut off.

As I was doing this test, I noticed heat coming from the wires between my connection and the speed controller. On close examination, the leads installed in the speed controller are tiny. I had a connector with larger gauge wire, and installed it this morning. I was then able to fly till the battery was much more discharged, I did not try to take it all the way down, but was able to get > 5 minute hover, longer flights today, and put back around 200 mah in the battery.

I am not sure if I might benefit from a connector change, to mini-Deans, and better yet wire.

The problem was the speed controller WOW installed in the brushless upgrade had tiny wire, and was never discharging the batteries. Im not sure why I never noticed this, I used the supplied charger a lot which does not provide mah readout. When the batteries age, the voltage reduces, and they no longer work. I can now use my old batteries, but get about 1/2 the flight time. They might do better with a better connector and wire.

Now isnt that brushless controller Walkera? And why do they not know what wire to use? How many are out there? WOW did a great job of checking this out! :/
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 05:54 PM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzyzx View Post
bind gets cleared by jumping elevator signal to power. If you shorted it to ground there it would skip anything that wasn't directly connected to analog source voltage. This trace starts @ b+, then to motors, servos, and ends where the tantalum capacitor is coupled to the regulator that provides power for the digital circuits. It's fine.

Those pins can come loose and lose connection without much if any kind of visual cue. You can remove the female connector and connect it or use a pick to release the pins and connect if you need a closer look to verify. Sometimes you'll be able to shift the pin in it's connector. The male connector pins are 3 sided and can make poor contact even with the connector fully seated in the right conditions. You might be able to plug it in at a slight vertical angle and it will operate normally.

If you need to service the connectors the easiest way is to track down the pins and replace them. If you want to service the entire connector assy you should solder a new one to the servo board, those wires are way too thin, brittle, and unreliable if you try to splice one in. If you splice it, expect it to fail soon after without warning, most likely in flight with you helplessly watching it belly flop into the pool.
Pheew, seems i was lucky that it was the elevator wire that shorted out. anyway seems that servo connector partially melted (it wont fit the socket at all now) so ill just replace the servo with a new one.

Should be getting those and my brushless mon or tuesday.

How well does a c05m do with a 9t pinion and 80% throttle? terence wasnt stocking any 7-8t and homefly has been out of stock forever on the 8's.
I will be ordering som PN Racing delrin pinions at some point and gear it propperly, just wondering how bad the flight times will be with a 9t & lower throttle.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 09:04 AM
Bring back the Huey!
RamboSmurf's Avatar
United States, NY, Kingston
Joined Mar 2007
188 Posts
Hi All
Please don't bark at me for asking the following questions, I'm old and my eyes go cross-eye and my brain stops functioning when trying to read 275 pages of info. I own a Genius CP and it will not allow me to do 3D no matter what. Motor bogs down to much.
My friend bought a Mini and it seems to have more power but he is only getting about 2 minutes of flight time. But, because it Walkera I don't know if its just his heli and he got a bad battery. Is this normal flight time? I really don't plan on upgrading to much as I have the 450/500 FBL most 3D flying once I get past the learning curve.
I'm on the fence for the Mini, V120D02S or going brushless on the Genius.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 09:06 AM
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2 minutes of 3d sounds about right for stock battery / motor.
Regular flight should be around 4 minutes.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 10:10 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamboSmurf View Post
Hi All
Please don't bark at me for asking the following questions, I'm old and my eyes go cross-eye and my brain stops functioning when trying to read 275 pages of info. I own a Genius CP and it will not allow me to do 3D no matter what. Motor bogs down to much.
My friend bought a Mini and it seems to have more power but he is only getting about 2 minutes of flight time. But, because it Walkera I don't know if its just his heli and he got a bad battery. Is this normal flight time? I really don't plan on upgrading to much as I have the 450/500 FBL most 3D flying once I get past the learning curve.
I'm on the fence for the Mini, V120D02S or going brushless on the Genius.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Two minutes of flight time is normal doing 3D with the stock 240 mAH. Flight times can be improved by using 350 mAH batteries. Even though it is easier to do 3D with the Mini CP, it is still not as easy as the V120D02S. For some reason, batteries do not deteriorate as fast with the V120D02S.
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