Originally Posted by dway

Mine was doing that. I was getting about 45 seconds to 1 minute hovering and then getting the low battery warning on my Devo 8s. It turned out to be the motor. I decided it was a good time to go brushless, and now my flight times are back to normal.

thanks for the info.

Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711

You have it the other way around and actually mean a 200 RPM HeadSpeed gain on this MiniCP Pro that Wow are selling now. It's using the Genius main gear and the upgrade 25C battery it comes with supposedly gives it this extra 200 RPM.

IMO it would be better to buy a stock heli with the more docile headspeed using the stock gearing, and a set of 6.00 training gear for a beginner Cp flyer.

The training gear is one of the most overlooked tools that new pilots dont seem to get with these micros yet its the one thing that will save you the most in crashes in the very beginning. It stops the heli from tipping over and acts like a shock absorber on hard landing and bumping into things.

When you get the mini check to make sure all the electronics work,, connecters are plugged in the correct spots on the RX and tight before power on. If ok then check the motors work, main and tail, servos work and move in sync up down left and right front and back, and RX binds and is auto correcting. If not check all 6 channels in the radio are set correctly from the manual under Reverse section.Then make sure all the screws are tight and tighten up the blade grips if they are too loose. Spool up in your hand and inspect the heli for anything that could be wrong check the main shaft is straight etc..

Once thats done, charge the battery and while its charging set up the radio. Put in 0-85-85-85-85 for a normal mode throttle curve and 50-56-66-76-86 for a pitch curve. For ST1 and ST2 put zeros all across for throttle and pitch so in case you hit ilde up by mistake you dont hit the cieling. Keep Throttle hold a linear curve from 0 to 100 and use that to check your pitch range later.

Set the gyro for ~70-75%, enable throttle hold and set it for -10%, setup dual rates for 70% w/ 40% expo on Aile/Elev and Rudd 100% w/ 30% expo. Make sure subtrim and travel adjust are all at zero.

Next you want to bind the heli up and get the swash close to center of the main shaft, do it by eye for now. Then get 0 degrees pitch, your already there at bottom stick in normal mode if you set the radio up previously, so just fold the blades back parallel to the boom and adjust the 2 long links until both blades are flat and even with no pitch at bottom stick. Spool up and adjust the blade tracking, just pick a master blade...you should see one blade when spooled up, use a small piece of tracking tape on one blade if needed or a dot of white out....... Snap on the training gear, while rechargeing the battery, again.

Battery charged, training gear on and leveled?..... Find a decent sized uncluttered room with carpet on the floor preferable, bind on a flat level surface (important the traing gear is level) and give a slow but steady throttle until the heli hops up a few inches, get a feel for the throttle stick, keep doing it over and over, go forward, back, left and right make sure the heli is acting right. Be quick on the throttle and drop the heli before you hit something.. Eventually, once you get the feel of things and make some radio adjustments, ...... take off and hover a few feet up and take it slow.

In the meantime ;
ask a million more questions, and read a few thousand more threads

Do it this way and I guarentee you wont need any spare parts if you take your time with it. Be methodical and have fun at the same time. its cheaper that way trust me.

Remember if you go with Wow you get 24hours to report a problem and once you fly the heli you own it and any of its possible problems too. That is thier loose policy, which can be strictly enforced. Especially now that you told them your new at CP flying etc........ehh they see you coming. So make sure before you take off the heli is 100 % functional.

Hope this helps you, Its not all inclusive but its a start.
I would have paid someone 50 bucks to give me this info when i first started, it would have probably saved me a thousand in parts and helis and wasted time.. no Shit

I have been looking at getting into some of this Mini cp action, and after about 1 wk of reading this thread that has been emotional and helpful...I must say thanks as this is an awesome post for total newbies!

I really appreciate it!

This thread is like a novel, there twists and turns its great, and if I buy BoB is definitely going to get my business! I almost want to buy something from him just to support his store!

Anyways thanks guys and gals! And I will keep reading til the end...only 100 or so pages to go!

Originally Posted by zadaw

There were all sorts of problems but the main problem were blown tail fets. I have 4 receivers for 2 air frames and all have been constantly sent back to Walkera for repair. In fact, I have never had a stretch of a week when I could fly a Mini CP. The current status is that one receiver is not repairable and another is back with Walkera. Off the two that are back, both fly very badly. I wrote a thread in another forum about this.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=423120

These problems are well known to my vendor who had been constantly sending receivers back to Walkera for repair. In fact he and many others have switched to flying the V120D02S almost exclusively because of this. The issue of blown tail fets occur with my Genius CP and mCPX as well so I am not completely sure whether the Mini CP receiver is much more susceptible than other 100 sized CPs.

I think fets blow more for some people as they dont shut the throttle all the way before the blades hit the ground in a crash .

Originally Posted by Magic k2

I think fets blow more for some people as they dont shut the throttle all the way before the blades hit the ground in a crash .

If only we had a throttle 'HOLD' like other Transmitters

Changing Fets can be easy enough to do yourself, if you can solder...

Did have an idea which could save tail Fets. Live cable from tail motor to rx, cut RED and solder 3amp fuse wire. So when you stall tail fuse will blow before FET !?
Any larger may blow fet before fuse.

Originally Posted by SadSack

If only we had a throttle 'HOLD' like other Transmitters

Changing Fets can be easy enough to do yourself, if you can solder...

Did have an idea which could save tail Fets. Live cable from tail motor to rx, cut RED and solder 3amp fuse wire. So when you stall tail fuse will blow before FET !?
Any larger may blow fet before fuse.

Hrm, a fuse on tail and possibly main motor (might be more tricky as you dont want it to go of while your flying) is a brilliant idea for those learning to fly, though it will add some extra weight.

Obviously the likelihood of receiver damage depends on how and where you are fly it, as well as your maintenance. I admit that there are things that I shouldn't have done, like flying in the rain. Knowing that the receivers can be repaired cheaply made me more careless.

Right now, I have no working receivers. One is completely unflyable because of strange behaviour and the other had its battery lead pulled out. I am not sure whether it is worthwhile sending them back to Walkera since they were already bad the last time they came back.

You cant solder the battery lead? i resoldered mine and have near 0 soldering experience. Or its from the connector and not the tx end?

Originally Posted by Xermalk

Hrm, a fuse on tail and possibly main motor (might be more tricky as you dont want it to go of while your flying) is a brilliant idea for those learning to fly, though it will add some extra weight.

Would add next to nothing in weight
Your thinking fuse's you use in cars which would.
Ok thats shows 5amp wire only but you can get 3amp but most likely quite hard to find. Still 5 amp for main would be good, would be ok for tail. Without looking at spec's for fets but guess peak amps would be about 6amps for few sec's so 5 amp could work.

soldering leads back to rx best i can offer is clean all glue off, don't try and solder with it there. Then use flux and practice its alot easyer than you think...oh and make sure your soler tips are clean and bright.

Originally Posted by Xermalk

You cant solder the battery lead? i resoldered mine and have near 0 soldering experience. Or its from the connector and not the tx end?

I can get somebody to do it easily but the receiver flies badly already.

Anyone know if CB180Q Tail Rotor or HM-4#3Q-Z-03 would fit the minis tail motor?

CB108Q is a tri blade rotor (looks awesome) and HM-4# seems to have a higher pitch then the stock one. no clue on how large they are though.

Edit, Nvm found a retailer that sells the mcp X v2 blades locally.
On a side note, what parts from a mcp x would fit a mini cp? tail and rotor blades only?

Edit 2: What batteries are recommended if you want a larger capacity for a brushless motor? They will be for sport and mild 3d.
Im looking for ones in the range of 400-800 mah.

so

what will walkera release for Blade NCPX competition?

we all know something is coming lol

Originally Posted by Razors edge 29

so

what will walkera release for Blade NCPX competition?

we all know something is coming lol

personally, i'm not interested in something that tiny. hard enough to see the minicp as is.

Originally Posted by pmerritt

personally, i'm not interested in something that tiny. hard enough to see the minicp as is.

My words excactly. Unless the canopy gets painted fluorescent orange or so, you need eagle eye vision to keep track.

So, i intend to try out some kdbb bullet blades on my mini cp, and the color options i have from my retailer is orange, yellow or green.

Anyone got suggestions as to what color would be easer to keep track of at distance? im leaning towards yellow or green.

This is where i ussualy fly at

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