That would be great; however, that link is for use on mSR sized Main Shaft which is 3 mm diameter, and the Mini is 2.5 mm diameter, so it won't work on the Mini.

Hp05s is crazy! I'm at 60% throttle and 50% pitch and it's still faster than the c05. And the 7mm tail motor is no match even turned down this low, lol. I first tried flying it with 60% pitch and 100% throttle and a full collective punch out resembled the tasmanian devil from looney tunes. Just a blur of a piro'ing rocket. I'm going to extend my tail boom 3-4" and see if that helps any.

Edit* I was also using a not fully charged battery. I just put a hot battery in it and holy sheet this thing is scary! I might have found a use for the stock brushed main motor after all... on the tail.

Extended boom 2", throttle travel 80%, rudder 150%, pitch 65%. Insane climbout with little to no blowout 5-10 degrees at most. Piro rate is still great with the longer boom. Very hard to hold a hover especially in normal mode, I guess because the headspeed is so ridiculously high. My flight timer was at 10 minutes when headspeed started slowing down but a couple minutes of that was resetting my servo links after a crash with throttle hold on and the timer kept running. Unfortunately I ran out of light but I can't wait to play with it some more tomorrow.

Have you given up on the Night Blades?

Originally Posted by i812

That would be great; however, that link is for use on mSR sized Main Shaft which is 3 mm diameter, and the Mini is 2.5 mm diameter, so it won't work on the Mini.

I just put wrap of masking tape around the shaft & it fit fine. Been using it that way for a few months with no problems. YMMV

Thanks.

Why didn't I think of that!

It is certainly worth a try, especially since you've reported success with it.

Originally Posted by itsmillertime

the headspeed is so ridiculously high. My flight timer was at 10 minutes when headspeed started slowing down but a couple minutes of that was resetting my servo links

So you got insane power *and* great battery life? What battery were you using?

What is this dark magic you dare speak of? :P

NIght blades are on the back burner. Although I wish I had them right now because I can't wait to fly this thing again. Was using my 350mah 25c's. Came down only a little warm, motor just warm. Like I said I had to stop and fix my swash after a "unscheduled landing" in a bush but 4-5 minutes or so. First time my swash has twisted out of the anti rotation guide so the head speed is definitely up there, lol. I wish I had a way to tach it. I got 170g negative thrust full 0 pitch to full negative. Went to positive pitch for s&g's and lifted my small scale off the ground, lol. I'll measure continuous thrust again in a little while.

can anyone suggest what extra parts should be purchased with the mini cp. i am ordering 1 and i wanted to know which parts break easiest/first in crashes or wear and tear so i can order them now and save on time (waiting for parts to be shipped), and money on shipping charges. thank you

200g negative thrust, 130g continuous, 5:30 minutes hovering in a small room with a buzzsaw, lol. This was on the 300mah 30C nano's so it should get almost 7 minutes on the 350's. Now I need to find some high C 400mah or some Hyperion 550's.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

Oh yeah.

What happens if you tweak the throttle such that you get the same power/headspeed out of the hp05s as you'd get out of the c05m? Would you get 10+ minutes of battery life?

I'll set throttle travel adjust at 50% tomorrow and give it a shot. Once my esc's get here I plan to govern it at slightly higher than c05 head speed. I'm not sure on the effects of governing on battery life either though. But it should not bog no matter how sloppy I am on collective management so however long the flight times are they will be fun.

Originally Posted by Neoneo

can anyone suggest what extra parts should be purchased with the mini cp. i am ordering 1 and i wanted to know which parts break easiest/first in crashes or wear and tear so i can order them now and save on time (waiting for parts to be shipped), and money on shipping charges. thank you

Here's what I posted last month:

Originally Posted by i812

I only have about a month's experience with the Mini, but here is my newbie advice:

To save on shipping and help get through tough times, I'd order atleast a spare Tail Boom, Tail Motor Holder, and Servo Holder at the same time and from the same place you get the Mini from. (Update: After 2 months and many full speed impacts, I also managed to break a Main Shaft Collar, and lost one of the Links).

If you like "roughing" it, get CA, Gorilla Glue, Hot Glue, and think about getting 2 mm Square CF Tube for DIY Tail Boom, and 1 mm CF Rod for a DIY Canopy Holder mod for use on the back-top of the Servo Holder.

I'm still testing the Servo Saver Mod trying to find the best O-Ring (Silicone Fuel Tubing) for use with the mod. I measured 4 different Razor/Utility Blades, and found the double edged Wilkinson Razor Blade to be the thinnest and had no problem using it to split the Servo Arm; however, even using the thinnest Blade, afterwards regardless of how tight or loose the Servo Arm Screws are, the Arm splits open and looses its "teeth" gripping too easily even when only doing Pitch Pumps while in Throttle Hold without Main Blades spinning. So if you do the Servo Saver mod, I highly recommend being very careful, and try making the cut down only ONE spline (not at an angle cutting through more than one spline), AND having 3/32" (or smaller?) ID Fuel Tubing, O-Ring, or Dampener on hand before doing the mod. Until you're confident about the reliability and usefulness of the Servo Saver Mod, I'd think about having spare Servos on hand. Benmlee and Bytemuncher have info and links to helpful info in their RCG Blog pages.

The stock Canopy is better than any other older micro Canopy I've experienced, but it splits easily from the bottom edge towards the nose. My Mini's original Canopy has about 6 splits along the bottom, and now has its bottom entirely Scotch taped. Once the bottom became completely taped, the splits stopped. I got a brighter easier to see Orange V2 Genius Canopy, and it almost immediately started to split at the bottom without really experiencing any serious crashes, so I added a strip of Scotch tape along the entire bottom edge of the Canopy, and even though the new Canopy has now been through some high impact crashes, the split hasn't worsened, and there hasn't been any newer splits.

I recommend orienting the RX antenna vertically UP, with the tip pointing out of the Canopy for two reasons:

• Best orientation for best signal reception
  
  
• Don't have to worry about exposed tip of Antenna electrically shorting against exposed RX or Main Motor circuitry. If the tip of the Antenna is low enough to touch those items, then it isn't positioned properly for best reception, is basically lying down/"sleeping" on the job, and needs to be brought back UP to attention with it's "ears" in the air (not laying low under a Canopy hiding behind a Motor or RX).

Many people have recommended adding some kind of adhesive to the RX's coil. When I got my Mini, I inspected the Coil and saw it was firmly soldered to the PWB, so I left it alone and just used extra care when taking off or putting on the Canopy. Now I'm regretting not adding some kind of impact protection to the Coil, because the Mini recently took a full speed nose dive on to a cement floor, broke off the top part of the Coil and one of the Coil's leads. I tried unraveling the broken lead one loop from the Coil so it would be long enough to solder on to the PWB, but somehow when I tried unwinding, the "end" got "buried" under? the other windings and now I can't find the "end" anymore. One of my main "go do's" for next week is to go somewhere that sells a good magnifying lens and have a better look and see if I can find the "end", and also see if there is someplace local that sells 15uh SMD Inductor (probably less than $1 part?) so the RX can be repaired with a little micro soldering. Unless you can afford a new RX, or will never have a high impact front end collision from the "chin", I highly recommend completely covering/embedding the Coil in something that can protect and help the Coil survive a full force solid direct hit. A few people have posted having success winding their own coil (and I've advocated doing so), and atleast one posted using a straight piece of wire works; however, now that I've gotten a good look at the stock Coil, seen how thin its wire is, how cheap 15 uh Coils are from the factory, I'm thinking the cheapest, easiest solution might be to dedicate some "front-end" non-reoccurring "repair" time to find a replacement Coil. If successful, I'll post a Part Number, mfg, and vendor.

I've CA'd the Landing Skid, and the Main Blades have taken a beating, but they appear to function as good as new.

Finally, Tom Z started a "Mini ... Review ..." thread, and it's first two posts have a lot of helpful info for Mini newbies. I advise doing the "What many people recommend mods" he has linked near the bottom of his first post.

I own about 9 different micro FP's, and even though I fly the Mini much faster and crash it much harder than any of the FP's, the Mini is the most durable of them all.

Thank you very much for all of that information. for the mini cp,on helical.com (which is where I'm ordering from) the price of all the parts i might need to replace total $199. but the minicp alone cost $159 body only. so it sound to me that i may as well just buy 2 mini cps and save a buck. play with them both till one breaks and becomes what i use for parts until its fixed later. but as soon as something breaks on 1. I'm not going to want to take parts from a perfectly good minicp. so I'm still gonna have to order parts. smh
heres my order so far. any suggestions on what to lose, keep, and what to order 2 of: (i have 1 ladybird being repaired as we speak. 2nd 1 will be in this order. there a new receiver in this order cause thats what went wrong with my ladybird. can't wait to get her back from china. when she comes back, so are these below listed items. so if any experts can share knowledge and pick apart this order, and customize it according to your experiences with mini cp or ladybird qr, both on a devo 7. binding them is gonna be a treat already. i know it. smh

1 x QR-Ladybird-Z-03 Main Frame
1 x Micro Screw Driver Box Set
2 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-20 Linkage Rod Set
1 x QR-Ladybird-Z-07 Receiver (RX2634H-D)
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-04 Blade Grips
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-03 Rotor Head
1 x QR-Ladybird-Z-01 Main Blades
1 x QR-Ladybird-Z-02 Canopy (Black)
1 x Walkera QR Ladybird (Black Body Only)
2 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-01 Main Rotor Blades
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-02 Tail Rotor Blades
1 x Aluminum Case for Walkera Genius CP / Mini CP / Super FP Helicopter
1 x Walkera HM Mini CP Helicopter (Body Only)
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-05 Blade Grips Bearing
1 x Storm 11.1V 900mAh 25C LiPo Battery Pack (for Big Lama)
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-15 Main Motor
1 x Airy Neck Strap for All Transmitter
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-12 Tail Boom
2 x Walkera GA006 USB Charger
1 x QR-Ladybird-Z-05 Motor (Clockwise)
1 x QR-Ladybird-Z-06 Motor (Counter-Clockwise)
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-07 Rotor Head Set
1 x Walkera HM Mini CP Helicopter (Body Only)
1 x Walkera UP-02 Programming Cable
1 x Walkera Devo RX701 2.4Ghz 7ch Receiver
1 x HSP Brontosaurus Off-Road Truck (1/10 Yellow & Red)
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-10 Servo Holder
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-13 Tail Set
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-14 Canopy
1 x HM-Mini-CP-Z-16 Servo