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Old Apr 14, 2012, 10:04 PM
<Marty>
United States, KY, Springfield
Joined Jul 2011
2,067 Posts
i just used some small round carbon rods and made some boom supports for my G's and have never had a boom break yet...plus it looks better with supports i think...not to mention it eliminates any flex in the boom that messes with the gyro..
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 09:33 PM
Registered User
United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Dec 2011
864 Posts
Went through the heli and made sure tracking and throws were equal and played with the rx pot and have it flipping really fast now but have a new problem. When in idle up it pitches forward. I'm thinking of swapping the elevator servo with the pitch servo and seeing if there is any change.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:26 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
1 Posts
So my heil was flying fine but then. It lost speed n died so I recharge it and now the motor and tail. Motor won't spin but the servo still works any ideas
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 07:45 AM
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Joined Dec 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
I gorilla glued the carbon rods and the plastic housing just for extra strength. I busted my canopy into 3 pieces and the rods held up just fine. My boom did too with gorilla glue covering where it entered the fuse and back an inch. I crashed and cracked the gorilla glue and while not thinking I tore off the rest of the glue. Big mistake. After crashing inverted 15 packs I took the glue off. The 16th pack sent me home with a busted tail.

I glued in my new tail and will keep it that way. The glue just makes its fuse holder longer, making the boom area that breaks shorter and stronger. The glue is as wide and tall as the fuse where the tail enters and after an inch it's ramped down. For those who keep breaking their tail , it's a definite boom saver. The tail breaks at its weakest point. I am sure if the mini had a shorter tail then it would probably be less likely to break it. A shorter piece of carbon fiber is stronger then a longer one, less fulcrum. Use the glue for both the boom and the canopy rods to make the exposed carbon shorter, stronger.

Do you have to replace the frame every time you break the tail boom? I once used ca on the servo holder, but some got into the tail boom where it enters the frame. It was glued in there so tight that it wouldn't budge so was left with no choice but to use a new frame.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:20 AM
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Joined Jul 2008
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No, the gorilla glue that i use will not lock it in that tight. You can eventually work it loose.

When my boom broke it happened like this:
the boom was glue to the frame, but i didnt put glue in the frames hole and then stick the boom in. I stuck the boom in and then glued the boom to the fuse.

after many many crashes I seen that the glue seperated from the fuse and showed a razorblade sized line. I pushed the boom back in and flew, and crashed. Sometimes the boom would slide out from the frame a mm or less. I would push it in . Then the glue cracked. I forgot to mention that this tail was cracked already where it enters the fuse. I put gorilla glue into the cracks and shoved it into the fuse then glued it in. If you look back at my posts you will find where I first posted a pic of my heli painted. I painted over the glue. And that was a very long time ago and many crashes. Anyways, when the glue cracked on the top i picked it off. I shouldnt of done that cause the tail broke on the next crash. The glue that was in the cracks though still were doing their job though, cause I straitened the tail and flew it back to my car. I probably could have reglued it and it would hold up for many more flights but i decided to go fresh with a brand new genius boom/tail motor.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 01:54 PM
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Joined Aug 2009
5,114 Posts
CA Repairs

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteAir View Post
Do you have to replace the frame every time you break the tail boom? I once used ca on the servo holder, but some got into the tail boom where it enters the frame. It was glued in there so tight that it wouldn't budge so was left with no choice but to use a new frame.
How did the CA get from the Servo Holder into the Main Frame's Tail Boom Holder? Were you applying the CA using a Butter Knife?

When I first started using CA, I did something like that also. It didn't take much time to notice thin CA can easily pour out from the bottle's nozzle if the bottle is squeezed even a little too much or held upside down. Now when using liquid adhesives, I first try doing the adhesive applications over scrap paper, and place a controlled amount of liquid adhesive on to a properly sized tool such as needle tip, toothpick, plastic, etc, then carefully transfer and apply the liquid adhesive to the part's mating surfaces using the pre-measured amount that was placed on the applicator. By first applying a limited amount of liquid adhesive on to an appropriately sized applicator, and using the applicator to transfer the liquid adhesive from the bottle to the parts, it's more difficult to ruin a part by accidentally getting an overflow of liquid adhesive on to the part anymore.

Also, if you have a hollow Tail Boom that split/broke and can't get out of the Main Frame, you may want to consider CA'ing and inserting about a 1/2 inch length of Rod (CF, wood, plastic) in the ID of the Tail Boom, and CA'ing and inserting the re-attaching the broken section of the Tail Boom back on. The repaired section would probably be stronger than the stock Tail Boom, and the additional piece of 1/2 inch length of Rod and CA wouldn't add much additional weight.

Finally, someone earlier in the thread posted carefully heating CA may soften it; however, too much heat may deform adjacent plastic parts. If I didn't have prior experience and wasn't certain about the procedure, I'd probably first want to disassemble, and separate the parts to be heated from all the other parts, so the heat is only applied and focused on the parts requiring repair. This way, if too much heat is applied, only the minimal amount of parts will be damaged. If the alternative is to replace the Frame, then there wouldn't be any additional disassembly/reassembly time involved by heating the isolated part(s). If /once it's been determined you're able to safely apply the appropriate amount of heat to loosen the CA and not deform neighboring parts, then maybe on subsequent repairs the heat can be applied and the repair can be performed at the top assembly level?
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Last edited by i812; Apr 17, 2012 at 05:08 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 08:28 PM
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United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Dec 2011
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Still fighting with my mini. In addition to it's pitching forward in idle up it now alternates between pitching forwards and backwards and this is not just a slow drift, this is a violent cyclic move like I was jamming the stick. Gave it a bit too much pitch inverted and the tail blew out which led to a pretty ugly crash that broke my motor's shaft. Miraculously I found my 8 tooth pinion but then set it down somewhere and lost it again. I was thinking the servos pots might be going bad causing the "phantom pitching" and have some on the way to experiment with. But after loosing the pinion and having a tail motor that only sometimes holds I'm giving up. Cp heli - 1, newbie - 0...
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 08:43 PM
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Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmillertime View Post
Still fighting with my mini. In addition to it's pitching forward in idle up it now alternates between pitching forwards and backwards and this is not just a slow drift, this is a violent cyclic move like I was jamming the stick. Gave it a bit too much pitch inverted and the tail blew out which led to a pretty ugly crash that broke my motor's shaft. Miraculously I found my 8 tooth pinion but then set it down somewhere and lost it again. I was thinking the servos pots might be going bad causing the "phantom pitching" and have some on the way to experiment with. But after loosing the pinion and having a tail motor that only sometimes holds I'm giving up. Cp heli - 1, newbie - 0...
Sounds like it could be a vibration issue make sure the board is securely attached, tighten those 3 screws.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 08:59 PM
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I had a violent shaking heli after I had adjusted the pot on the rx. I thought I had the flat part pointing at the 7 o'clock setting but instead had it pointing at 4 oclock. For some reason the heli would shake every once in awhile, mostly after flipping out from inverted.

I put it on 7 and it went away. Maybe a bent motor shaft would do the same thing, send it out of whack.


Mine would pitch forward and back in a violent shake with the pot adjusted flat part toward 3 o'clock too. I have no idea what caused this, would like to know if thats what caused yours to do it. Keep us updated.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 08:43 AM
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Michigan
Joined Jul 2009
34 Posts
After a crash last week with my mcp w the C05m/9t, and using my original repaired board I noticed the coil hot glue and all flopping around a bit. after peeling off the hot glue, the coil wasn't even attached, I had a small length of wire from it shorted across the points!

So I've been flying with no coil, just jumpered for some time now, and it still flies fine. Wouldn't recommend it to anyone else, but I fly in a metal stamping factory mostly, with huge 1000t presses running large drives, plenty of electrical interference here compared to most places I think.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Joined Jul 2008
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Check it out, a new battery has hit the market. 400mah 25C!! that fits the mini's tray
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10697960183
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 11:08 AM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
Check it out, a new battery has hit the market. 400mah 25C!! that fits the mini's tray
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10697960183
Is this price for a bakers dozen?
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 12:55 PM
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This is how much they want for a RTF Mini with 8S:

1780.00 http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=15505796031

I'm surprised it doesn't end in .99 like it does in the states.
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Last edited by i812; Apr 18, 2012 at 02:36 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 06:43 PM
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United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Dec 2011
864 Posts
I was missing one rx screw but the other 2 were tight. How sensitive are these mini's to blade balance and what is the effect of unbalanced blades? I'm also still running the original blades which have had quite a few strikes on them. That combined with the c05m, 8 tooth pinion, mini main gear and good packs should give a head speed of 5500 or so.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 09:50 PM
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OnceAFly's Avatar
Singapore, Singapore
Joined Oct 2011
847 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
This is how much they want for a RTF Mini with 8S:

1780.00 http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=15505796031

I'm surprised it doesn't end in .99 like it does in the states.
That is in chinese dollars about $283
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Last edited by OnceAFly; Apr 18, 2012 at 10:19 PM.
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