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Old Apr 13, 2012, 07:02 PM
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United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Dec 2011
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Managed a 10 second inverted flight today. If you have to think about the controls this little heli is GONE! Lol, more sim time needed... I tend to break it a lot more when I crash upside down. Mainly just tail booms but that's why I got 6' of it and plenty of wire. I don't understand how it flips so quick in some videos. I have a c05m with a 8 tooth pinion running at 100% and 100% travel in dual rates and 100% in travel adjust but it still seems to take a couple seconds and some height to flip it.
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 07:19 PM
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I had a 5 second inverted flight today. I think it is mostly luck. The heli will maybe start to piroutte slightly and i hit the rudder the wrong way, then I go the right way but then the heli is either going strait up, strait back or strait over my head. Then I try and correct that, then i bail out. Sometimes I flip it real gentle and slow and calm, that happens rarely. I have t think about doing that. Its hard to think about anything while flying inverted.

itsmillertime, where is the flat part of the screw on the minis rx pointing to? Point it to the 7/8 oclock and it will flip faster but it is also all loose and quick on the cyclics.

Second day of flipping and inverted for me. I want to do more but i dont have any more booms left. I have 30$ to spend and i wanted to buy the turnigy 300mah 35c from hobbyking, but I broke a bunch of stuff. I really want the 35c batteries but I need landing skid and boom material. would like one extra pair of main blades. I was keeping my last pair perfect until i installed the 9t on the c05 and blasted strait up into the ceiling. Big scrapes on them.
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
...
itsmillertime, where is the flat part of the screw on the minis rx pointing to? Point it to the 7/8 oclock and it will flip faster but it is also all loose and quick on the cyclics.
...
+1

Once I tweaked the pot, I've never taken the pointer off 1 (what y'all call flat at 7)

We had a calm day a few days ago, and I finally took it outside and let it rip. It was fun flying in my front yard and over the street, but not enough adrenaline, so I wanted more, remembered that I could hit both the AIL and EL D/R switch to go from 80 to 100% Servo throw, but didn't want to look down hunting for those two switches and figure out how to flip them both and still fly, so I just took it up an additional 20 feet and placed the Flight Mode switch from Norm to Stunt, expecting it to have some kind of quick "knee"-jerk reaction. No big deal! It was as if nothing happened at all! The only thing I noticed different is that it pounds the ground with a lot more force when the LiPo goes low and I panic and slam the throttle all the way down. When I walk over to pick it up, I notice the Blades still want to spin, and try to push the throttle stick down more, and then realize: Oh, I'm not in Normal Mode anymore! I need to use the Throttle Hold switch to kill the Motor. I wonder how many months it will take for me to remember that BEFORE I walk over!

During the cool off, I confirmed the 80% D/R factory settings is in all Modes, changed it to 100% for all modes, and was going to at least try a high flip, but by the time the LiPo charged, the wind picked up, and its been windy every day since.

I fly with 1 O'clock and 100% in my living room now, trying to do as steep as banked turns as I comfortably can. They're a little banked, but nothing to write home about. That's all I've been practicing both in the living room and on the sim for about a month now.

I've tried Tail-down funnels on the sim a few times, and I'm starting to pull them off, but they quickly unwind and flatten out after a turn or two. I'm now thinking if a person wants to get good at doing side-ways funnels, then it might be best to practice flying every normal circuit moving sideways. In other words, instead of doing circuits following the nose or tail, do circuits following a side, either driver's or passenger's. Aerodynamically it probably is just as easy to fly in any direction. I think I'm best at flying follow the nose, only because I fly that way the most. As far as the heli, it can fly banked in any position equally as well. If we can't fly in a particular position, it is probably only because we have a mental "problem", and the only thing holding us back is fear (i.e. spaz attacks, or lack of muscle memory). I believe once a person is able to "peel" paint off the walls flying sideways, then funnels will be as Ali says: "a piece of cake"
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Last edited by i812; Apr 14, 2012 at 09:46 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 08:38 AM
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Joined Jul 2008
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When I am about to crash I hurry up and hit the stunt switch to normal and then throttle down. I try to do this before the heli hts the ground. I switched my stunt switch to the left side of my devo 7 and put the throttle hold on the right. I did that recently and i am used to hitting the throttle hold there , so because of me not doing this sooner I end up flipping the wrong switch. I think that I need to switch them and then turn the throttle hold around. I don't like trying to flip the throttle hold toward me in a crash, like the idea to hit it away from me. I think it would be quicker.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 10:46 AM
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I just found out that the owner of asteroid designs flashes escs and he mentioned he is currently flying a mcpx with a hp06 and flashed walkers escs with goverer mode!!!! He runs a flashing service on his site but doesn't list walkers escs. It would be nice to run a governed c05 on the mini or better yet a hp05. Anyways, I emailed him and will find out shortly. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=390517 here is the link about how to build the flasher yourself, I haven't read it so I don't know if it says anything about the walkera esc .
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 11:25 AM
Newb Rotary Pilot
Odenton, MD
Joined Apr 2009
409 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
I just found out that the owner of asteroid designs flashes escs and he mentioned he is currently flying a mcpx with a hp06 and flashed walkers escs with goverer mode!!!! He runs a flashing service on his site but doesn't list walkers escs. It would be nice to run a governed c05 on the mini or better yet a hp05. Anyways, I emailed him and will find out shortly. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=390517 here is the link about how to build the flasher yourself, I haven't read it so I don't know if it says anything about the walkera esc .
You can't flash walkera esc's only the ones listed in that post.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 11:56 AM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1162
Read this and he says
"Walkera ESC's for main and tail with Steffan's BLheli code on both"



Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker
Dylan,

Just wanted to let you know that I'm loving the almost plug & play brushless kit w/linear throttle that you put together for me a couple months back. The bird is so much more fun to fly, and the tail is rock-solid with 4G3 tail motor & 125mm boom - even during aggressive 3D. The best part is that the CG is still right where it should be! No tail-heavy bird here!

Again - thanks for your dedication to the hobby and thanks for your exceptional, high-quality work!

Joel


Thanks Joel!

Im glad you are loving it

For everyone else, Joel is running:

C05M/8 tooth
XP-7A/AEO converter
125m boom/7mm 4G3 motor
Hyperion 250's

Probably in the range of 48 grams AUW.

My favorite setup these days is:

HP06V2/9 tooth
HP03T/RRC 65mm prop
Walkera ESC's for main and tail with Steffan's BLheli code on both
Hyperion 550's

60 grams AUW 4:30 flights, 6300 RPM solid for the entire flight The HP05S seems sluggish now!

Hopefully soon the BLheli code will be running on the XP ESC's, much easier to implement than the Walkera's!

Dylan
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 02:14 PM
<Marty>
United States, KY, Springfield
Joined Jul 2011
2,096 Posts
Walkera WK-WST-10A-LT. This ESC uses an Atmega88 that is locked (can not be reprogrammed) and therefore the MPU chip needs to be replaced. This ESC has very good FETs (FDW2501/2508).
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Nytflyer View Post
You can't flash walkera esc's only the ones listed in that post.
True and false In order to flash a Walkera you have to remove and replace the MCU with an unlocked version. Then it can be flashed. Is it worth the effort and cost...probably not but can be done

YMMV, Don
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nytflyer View Post
You can't flash walkera esc's only the ones listed in that post.
Nytflyer, thanks for the post.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 02:34 PM
<Marty>
United States, KY, Springfield
Joined Jul 2011
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i believe it would be worth the effort and cost to replace the MCU chip...Would be nice to have a governor to stop the bogging of the motor and maintain a constant head speed...then using insane power motors would not be a issue cause you could just simply govern them to what head speed you want...
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Last edited by magic_marty; Apr 14, 2012 at 02:34 PM. Reason: typo.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 03:08 PM
Newb Rotary Pilot
Odenton, MD
Joined Apr 2009
409 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbennettya View Post
True and false In order to flash a Walkera you have to remove and replace the MCU with an unlocked version. Then it can be flashed. Is it worth the effort and cost...probably not but can be done

YMMV, Don
Yea I realized that after posting that yes it is possible but very difficult. Especially for your average modeler. I can solder pretty well but I'll be damned if I am going to try and replace an mcu.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 04:25 PM
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This Hot Air tool may come in handy?
(I posted this video in this thread a month or so ago)

How to Solder QFN MLF chips Using Hot Air without Solder Paste and Stencils (7 min 25 sec)
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Canopy Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Is there something that dissolves/loosens CA, but not effect plastic or CF?

I've used CA to re-attach a broken piece of Canopy Post and Servo Holder back on to their mating parts, and the repair doesn't hold as well as I'd like it to, so I'd like to redo the repair using an unbroken full length Canopy Post (1 mm CF Rod); however, now that I've used CA at the broken end of the original Canopy Post, I'm unable to remove it out of the Servo Holder any more. Only the very end of it is CA'ed inside the Servo Holder. Any suggestions on how to get the CA'ed broken Canopy Post out, so I can get a full length new one in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by scub View Post
heat works.. try a blow/hair drier, a heat gun will work but obviously be careful as too hot can deform/melt plastic.
I tried using a Hot Air Gun to soften the "CA", in attempt to remove the "CA repaired" Canopy posts from the Servo Holder, and couldn't even get the "broken Canopy Posts" to budge out of the Servo Holder. As time went on, I kept slowly increasing the heat, until eventually the Servo Holder got so hot that it started deforming from me trying to press the "broken CA'd Canopy Posts" out using a needle tip.

I just now went to install a brand new Servo Holder, using a new "single" piece Genius Canopy Post, and found that the Mini Servo Holder DOESN'T have a complete through hole for the Canopy Post.

So all I was doing with the Heat Gun was wasting my time. There wasn't a broken piece of Canopy Post CA'd in both ends of my CA'd repaired Servo Holder after all.

I need a Canopy Post Holder that is more crash friendly. Trying to re-glue the stock Servo Holder's Canopy Post "Stub-Holder" back on, is not fun for me because I'm afraid I'll get too sloppy with the CA and permanently adhere the Servo Holder to the Main Frame. Also, once the Servo Holder's Canopy Post Stub Holder is CA'd back on, it doesn't seem to withstand as much abuse as a new unbroken one, and I'd rather find a stronger, easier to repair solution. I'm now thinking it might be cheaper, faster, better to just glue (Gorilla, Hot, or CA?) a single length of 1 mm CF Rod to the back of the Servo Holder. This way, I won't be damaging the Servo Holder when doing high speed crashes. I may even try using Walkera's approach and glue a small length of larger diameter CF Tube on the back of the Servo Holder, and slide a full length 1 mm Canopy Post inside it, hoping whenever there's a high impact crash the 1 mm Rod will break, and all that will need to be done is easily without glue slide a new 1 mm Rod in and fly again.

For the price of one stock Servo Holder, I could probably purchase 1 m length of 1 mm CF Rod, and get QTY 24 Canopy Posts. I'd much rather break a much cheaper and easier to replace Post than a more expensive and time consuming to replace/repair Holder.
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Last edited by i812; Apr 14, 2012 at 06:04 PM. Reason: added last sentence
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 09:59 PM
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I gorilla glued the carbon rods and the plastic housing just for extra strength. I busted my canopy into 3 pieces and the rods held up just fine. My boom did too with gorilla glue covering where it entered the fuse and back an inch. I crashed and cracked the gorilla glue and while not thinking I tore off the rest of the glue. Big mistake. After crashing inverted 15 packs I took the glue off. The 16th pack sent me home with a busted tail.

I glued in my new tail and will keep it that way. The glue just makes its fuse holder longer, making the boom area that breaks shorter and stronger. The glue is as wide and tall as the fuse where the tail enters and after an inch it's ramped down. For those who keep breaking their tail , it's a definite boom saver. The tail breaks at its weakest point. I am sure if the mini had a shorter tail then it would probably be less likely to break it. A shorter piece of carbon fiber is stronger then a longer one, less fulcrum. Use the glue for both the boom and the canopy rods to make the exposed carbon shorter, stronger.
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