Originally Posted by benboy207

Those would not stop servos from stripping, not that the linear servos strip anyways. Horizon Hobby uses them on all of their planes/helis for fine adjusting linkages/pushrods mechanically. They're the same as rotating the link on a mini cp to make it longer or shorter except you bend it or stretch it on this.

They are used on the heli's to protect the servos.. you adjust the heli's with the screw on ball links. Some thing that the UM planes don't have..

But these look a little to heavy for doing much protecting... Which is why I don't try making this type for the V120D02S as the wire Walkera uses and needed for their ball links is also to stiff..

The curved Links being used for fine tuning of the lengths sounds good to me.

However, I'd rather at least try fine tuning using CW and CCW threads on different ends of the Links. This way, we'd never be forced to pop off a Link and be required to turn it a full circle in attempt to get closer to "zero". With CW and CCW threads on opposite ends of the Links, we could simply rotate the middle metal part with pliers as exactly required while the Link is still on the heli. If there will be a problem of the Link twisting loose due to vibration (etc.), just apply some kind of anti-tamper stuff (a little dab of clean, easy to remove/pliable adhesive) to both ends of the Links.

I'm definitely not a Strength and Materials type of person and don't want to take the time to learn the subject at the moment, so I took a stiff paper clip and experimented bending different portions of it. I found it took considerably more force to flex the straight part even a little, than it did to squeeze together the two opposing sides of the U shape. It might have something to do with the curved part of the U functioning as the fulcrum of a lever, in other words "inch"-ounces of force being applied rather than ounces?

I quickly read the posts in the 3 new different Blade 130 threads, and someone mentioned and made me remember about Z-Bends being used in other products. It wouldn't take much imagination to recognize that Z-Bends would also allow fine tuning of the Links for adjustments requiring less than complete 360* Link turns. Also, it wouldn't take much imagination to recognize for the same reason that a Z-Bend allows easier adjustment of the "length" than a straight Link, a Z-Bend would also allow easier "compression" bending of the length than a straight Link.

Originally Posted by i812

The curved Links being used for fine tuning of the lengths sounds good to me.

However, I'd rather at least try fine tuning using CW and CCW threads on different ends of the Links. This way, we'd never be forced to pop off a Link and be required to turn it a full circle in attempt to get closer to "zero". With CW and CCW threads on opposite ends of the Links, we could simply rotate the middle metal part with pliers as exactly required while the Link is still on the heli. If there will be a problem of the Link twisting loose due to vibration (etc.), just apply some kind of anti-tamper stuff (a little dab of clean, easy to remove/pliable adhesive) to both ends of the Links.

I'm definitely not a Strength and Materials type of person and don't want to take the time to learn the subject at the moment, so I took a stiff paper clip and experimented bending different portions of it. I found it took considerably more force to flex the straight part even a little, than it did to squeeze together the two opposing sides of the U shape. I think it might have something to do with the curved part of the U operating as fulcrum of a lever, in other words "inch"-ounces of force being applied rather than ounces?

I quickly read the posts in the 3 new different Blade 130 threads, and someone mentioned and made me remember about Z-Bends being used in other products. It wouldn't take much imagination to recognize that Z-Bends would also allow fine tuning of the Links for adjustments requiring less than complete 360* Link turns. Also, it wouldn't take much imagination to recognize for the same reason that a Z-
Bend allows easier adjustment of the "length" than a straight Link, a Z-Bend would also allow easier "compression" bending of the length than a straight Link.

I get the feeling that you have never tried to fine tune a UM by bending the "U" links. Not as easy as turning a link is or as fine of adjustment from my experience anyways..

No I haven't, probably mainly because the only time I've used UM in a sentence is in YUM, as in yummy!

But yeah, on these helis, the way I constantly enjoy banging them into things, I'm constantly trying to re-bend everything back into stock "shape". And you're 100% correct, for someone that has bad eyes, and only uses shaky fingers, trying to bend something to within a gnat's arse is PITA.

Quote:

Being close only counts in:
horseshoes, hand grenades, and RC heli's!
- i812

doubt that would stop servos from stripping.. unless the links were that soft to bend, it doesn't seem likely to help at all. recall reading a while ago it was for extra adjustment.

its a shame a person couldn't use some sort of magnets as servo links ...that way they could pop apart when needed and easily be put back together..most if not all of us know how strong magnets are these days and they would probably be strong enough to hold under normal loads but release in a crash...

All this new discussion about Servo's. I haven't done the Servo Saver Mod yet, but am this >< close to doing it. I thought everyone that's done the mod is 100% . Has/does anyone have problems with the Servo Saver Mod? It sound like the cheapest easiest thing to do, as long as it doesn't slip while doing extreme maneuvers. If so, it should be easy to see if it slipped after landing: just look to see if the Servo's Arm is still within a tooth of being at 90* @ 0* Pitch.

It's been said many times before, the weakest link always breaks.

IMO, the best design is the one that intentionally chooses to use an inexpensive easy to re-adjust/replace sacrificial "Jesus" part, to help save all the other more expensive and/or more difficult to readjust/replace parts.

The $16 Servo is the second most expensive part on the Mini, and is one of the most commonly damaged stock parts! That and the Tail Assy are my Mini's weak links. I can live with weak Tail Boom and Fin because they are inexpensive and easy to replace (once the Tail Motor wires are wrapped around the outside of the Boom). BTW, my Tail Boom split lengthwise, and after CA'ing it, I'm still flying with the original Boom; however, I often find it slid out from the Main Frame, but that might be why the Boom hasn't broken anymore, because it slides out now rather than flex's?

Except for the Servo, the Mini is the most durable yet most capable heli I've owned (mCX, mSR, and most of the 120 and smaller Walkera FP's). I plan on doing the Servo Saver mod, but I'm waiting for someone to give me a "thin" Blade. Yeah, I'm cheap! I don't mind spending big $ on stuff I plan on using, but avoid trying to even spend a cent on one time use stuff. The things I enjoy most in life are the free stuff: sun (well, not the TX sun in the summer - I need to move to someplace cooler in the summer, but warmer in the winter), wind, ocean, plants, wildlife, science.

Well guys, after finding lots of examples of paper canopies for blades and others, I decided to try to make my own for the mini CP.
I used colour laser transparency, double printed and then painted the inside with white spray paint. I used little bits of Velcro to attach the canopy to the heli.

I might try a few more colour themes

Looks very nice.

You should post your template, to make it easier for others to enjoy.

I wonder if the hole in the front will help cool the Motor?

How much does it weigh?

The stock Mini Canopy weighs 2.25 g.

My stock one weighs 2.32g on my scales. The new one measures 2.91g fully completed with Velcro.

I'll post the template soon, just need to do a few minor adjustments.

I like the idea of a magnet instead of a ball on the swashplate , a rare earth one. A crash would pop it right off.

I812 , my servo saver job went well on 2 servos, 1 is really loose. There is a factory mold line on the servo arm already that can be used as a guide. I know that if I had a chance to do it over then I would of used a razor blade out of a disposable shaver. Those are the thinnest blades available. I use heat shrink on my servo saver, the size slides right over easily. I cut out a square so the arm portion fits into the heat shrink. I haven't had the servo arms move on extreme flights, even crashed a bunch yesterday inverted.

I would do the mod before the gear under the brass thing inside the servo eats a tooth. Its almost non-replaceable. I stripped my servo gears before the mod just from flying in the house. That was with low head speed. All it takes is one little crash and it's possible.

My problem was that I went back over the cut I made into the servo arm. I thought it was too tight. My other two servo arms have to be pushed hard before they click back into place. The easy one just needs to be barely touched. I honestly cannot believe it holds up.

I broke the tail today where it enters the fuse. I had bought a whole genius tail awhile back and installed it. The old mini boom/tail is 133mm, the genius boom/tail is 135mm from the tip of the carbon fiber to the end of the motor housing. Has anyone just swapped them and the tail behaved normal? Or should i trim down the genius boom a little?

I went through 16 packs today at the park. I am doing good on the flips but inverted is a bit hard to find the sweet spot on the throttle/pitch. The heli inverted either wants to go up or down. I loosened the throttle indent metal strip to make the throttle real loose. I am wondering if that is a bad idea. I like it but its hard to find the middle ground when hovering inverted. Usually when the bateries start to lose their kick I can hover inverted for longer without the heli going sky high. I need to lower the throttle curve now that I think about it. I am running a 9t pinion on the c05 . I lost my 7t yesterday.


I am also getting a bad vibration as in the whole heli shakes after I flip it from inverted back to normal. After about 1 second after I flip it back to normal the heli shakes. I did crash a whole lot today, broke the other pin off the front of the landing gear(i had the other front missing for awhile now, broke the tail, smashed the canopy to bits. The bad vibration goes away after 2 seconds. Its very strange. Hopefully the new tail will fix that? I am also going to go through everything to make sure nothing is bent or loose.


EDIT: I seem to have fixed the crazy vibration. When I was at the park I messed with the RX pot/screw and had the flat part at 4/5 oclock. i just put it 7/8 and the weird shake is gone. The tail seems to be holding fine too with the longer genius tail. i still want someone to chime in about it though

Originally Posted by mescalinedream

I broke the tail today where it enters the fuse. I had bought a whole genius tail awhile back and installed it. The old mini boom/tail is 133mm, the genius boom/tail is 135mm from the tip of the carbon fiber to the end of the motor housing. Has anyone just swapped them and the tail behaved normal? Or should i trim down the genius boom a little?

I went through 16 packs today at the park. I am doing good on the flips but inverted is a bit hard to find the sweet spot on the throttle/pitch. The heli inverted either wants to go up or down. I loosened the throttle indent metal strip to make the throttle real loose. I am wondering if that is a bad idea. I like it but its hard to find the middle ground when hovering inverted. Usually when the bateries start to lose their kick I can hover inverted for longer without the heli going sky high. I need to lower the throttle curve now that I think about it. I am running a 9t pinion on the c05 . I lost my 7t yesterday.


I am also getting a bad vibration as in the whole heli shakes after I flip it from inverted back to normal. After about 1 second after I flip it back to normal the heli shakes. I did crash a whole lot today, broke the other pin off the front of the landing gear(i had the other front missing for awhile now, broke the tail, smashed the canopy to bits. The bad vibration goes away after 2 seconds. Its very strange. Hopefully the new tail will fix that? I am also going to go through everything to make sure nothing is bent or loose.


EDIT: I seem to have fixed the crazy vibration. When I was at the park I messed with the RX pot/screw and had the flat part at 4/5 oclock. i just put it 7/8 and the weird shake is gone. The tail seems to be holding fine too with the longer genius tail. i still want someone to chime in about it though

"I loosened the throttle indent metal strip to make the throttle real loose. I am wondering if that is a bad idea. I like it but its hard to find the middle ground when hovering inverted." As you seem to be flying a heli,, and heli TX's don't use the indent metal strip as you can never find the right spot.. Most turn it over so it acts as just friction and no indents. I do the same for airplanes also. Just a nice smooth throttle stick is what you want.. Some wrap tape around it to do this..

Originally Posted by mescalinedream

... if I had a chance to do it over then I would of used a razor blade out of a disposable shaver. Those are the thinnest blades available.
...

Are you trying to describe one of the blades on this disposable shaver:



or

this type of "old-school" disposable blade:



BTW, a got 3 free single edged utility blades that measure 0.25 mm thick. I'm guessing the blades in my disposable razor cartridge are much thinner; however, they might to too thin/flexible to cut the Servo's Arm, and instead will only cut my fingers. I'm having the same thoughts about the old-school double edged razor blades.

Originally Posted by mescalinedream

...
I use heat shrink on my servo saver, the size slides right over easily. I cut out a square so the arm portion fits into the heat shrink. I haven't had the servo arms move on extreme flights, even crashed a bunch yesterday inverted.
...

I'm might be confused on the part I bold faced also. Square? From what I remember reading, and seeing over the last few months, I thought the intent was to cut the "round" part (the part that the screw goes through) of the Servo Arm, then re-enforce the "round" part with something else round but will stretch loose (like: O-ring, tubing, heatshrink, etc.) before stripping a gear.

Someone earlier mentioned having some success with using the Mini's Dampener (Feathering Shaft O-ring) as an O-ring for the mod. And there was at least one post where someone described using a flexible washer under the Servo Arm screw to help keep and adjust for the correct amount of "squeeze". As usual, I'll probably try to scavenge something free before I give up and purchase a box of 100 O-rings from OringsAndMore. I already have an assortment of different diameter heatshrink. If I can't find something at home with the correct diameter and having the correct amount of elasticity, probably the Auto parts store will chuckle when I ask them for 1/4 inch of tubing.

As I posted earlier, I enjoy things more when they're free. Except for the virus I got recently!

The arm that leads to the servo link I meant to say. the heatshrink is a round tube. If you slide that round tube over the round part of the servo horn it will push until it hits the arm portion. I cut a square out to fit the arm part. the heatshrink will be flush with the backside of the arm. Still hard to explain. I would use the double edge rasor. i think the disposable's might be too thin. But you do not want a wide cut!!!