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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RawmadeCF View Post
Bob at Helirc sent me a baggy of MCP servo gears free with my order, love that guy =P
Servo gears are now available for Walkera servos? Is that true?
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:23 PM
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Tokyo
Joined Jan 2010
700 Posts
Regarding the servos, the ball links are different sizes.

On the mini's servo the ball is plastic and the same size as the swash ball link.

On the genius the ball link is metal and slightly smaller, so the linkage arm has one smaller link and one larger link. This makes managing your spare links kind of a PITA.

The genius servo arm also grips slightly tighter so if you're doing the saver mod you may not need a tension-adding device (e.g. o-ring, dental floss, heat shrink, 1.5mm ID fuel tube). I use o-rings on both. See my blog if you don't know what I'm talking about.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:23 PM
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United States, TN, Memphis
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Anyone successfully repaired a broken coil? I got my new links in today, set my pitch, and went for a test flight sans canopy. Managed to crash and rip it halfway off
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by itsmillertime View Post
Managed to crash and rip it halfway off
You didn't have it glued?!? Or it still came off even glued down?
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by scub View Post
both 1220 and 1015 are running very hot. thought they would be cooler than stock motor.. could it be the walkera ESC?

i'm amazed how small the 1015 is yet it has a lot of power. the shaft is a bit short so you have to put the pinion closer to the edge of the shaft and since the motor is smaller both mounting holes don't align unless you cut the frame a little.. it's lighter than the genius motor and smaller, yet has similar power to it but the motors are running hot as hell!
Also surprised they run hot. I guess at least we can use the temp sensor on the inrunners. How are flight times with the 1015?
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bytemuncher View Post
You didn't have it glued?!? Or it still came off even glued down?
Didn't get to it yet.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:00 PM
Making Stock Fly Like Modified
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Z View Post
Thanks for posting this.
The servos are the same for the GCP and MCP as far as we know but
I will find out for sure in two days.

See this post.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=398


Tom

Hey Tom, nice to see you again. What radio did you settle on, I like the 10 that just came out, looks like it would be an easy switch from 2801-Pro to the Devo-10. I like the vibeing alarm, thats about the only thing i would change with the 2801-pro, that and if it was less battery hungry.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
Hey Tom, nice to see you again. What radio did you settle on, I like the 10 that just came out, looks like it would be an easy switch from 2801-Pro to the Devo-10. I like the vibeing alarm, thats about the only thing i would change with the 2801-pro, that and if it was less battery hungry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Z View Post
Thanks for posting this.
The servos are the same for the GCP and MCP as far as we know but
I will find out for sure in two days.

See this post.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=398


Tom


Hi,

I ended up using the 2801 Pro TX for the GCP. I liked it much better than the Devo 7.
Still have the Devo 7 TX. Tried to sell it for months but nobody wanted it...
At least I can use it on my MCP conversion in a couple of days.
The Devo 10 sounds awesome. And the vibrating alarm is a great idea. I plan to get one in the spring or summer.

Tom
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by itsmillertime View Post
Anyone successfully repaired a broken coil? I got my new links in today, set my pitch, and went for a test flight sans canopy. Managed to crash and rip it halfway off
Where's the coil broken at?

I don't have a Mini yet (I've been told it's in the mail); however, from the photo(s) of the coil that have been posted, it looks like the coil is nothing more than an "air" core Inductor. If so, then you might be able to "roll" your own from wire having the appropriate wire diameter, coil diameter, and correct number of turns.

When I was a child, during the last century, in the 70's, I used to roll my own. I had a homemade radio, that required different inductors having different number of coil turns, which were used to help tune the radio to different frequency bands from 0.5 MHz to 30 MHz. Once the coils were "rolled", I'd coat the coil windings with "Elmer's" white glue to help the coils maintain their shape.

If you want to know more about Inductors:

MAKE presents: The Inductor (10 min 46 sec)
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:45 PM
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United States, MA, Springfield
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bytemuncher View Post
Also surprised they run hot. I guess at least we can use the temp sensor on the inrunners. How are flight times with the 1015?
kind of short for me.. just light indoor flying with a few hard pumps, 4 minutes using hyperion 240. to me it gets hot fast.. it's funny though, for the 1220 HK reviews some say it runs super cool yet some say hot.. i could try getting another ESC, unless that's the culprit i don't know..
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Where's the coil broken at?

I don't have a Mini yet (I've been told it's in the mail); however, from the photo(s) of the coil that have been posted, it looks like the coil is nothing more than an "air" core Inductor. If so, then you might be able to "roll" your own from wire having the appropriate wire diameter, coil diameter, and correct number of turns.

When I was a child, during the last century, in the 70's, I used to roll my own. I had a homemade radio, that required different inductors having different number of coil turns, which were used to help tune the radio to different frequency bands from 0.5 MHz to 30 MHz. Once the coils were "rolled", I'd coat the coil windings with "Elmer's" white glue to help the coils maintain their shape.

If you want to know more about Inductors:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STDlCdZnIsw
Me too. I used to build and sell FM Transmitters and bugs.

The inductance can also be increased or decreased by compressing and expanding the coil or inserting Ferrite.

I always used ECW, Enammaled copper wire.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:52 PM
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I fixed it. I found a small bent tip for my soldering iron and started a small puddle at the base of the coil where it meets the pcb and then slowly drug a small bit of solder up to the coil's wire. Considering the wire is barely visible I think it was more luck than anything.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by itsmillertime View Post
I fixed it. I found a small bent tip for my soldering iron and started a small puddle at the base of the coil where it meets the pcb and then slowly drug a small bit of solder up to the coil's wire. Considering the wire is barely visible I think it was more luck than anything.
Tbh, I don't think the H (inductance) of this coil is too critical.

Without looking at a schematic it's hard to tell, but my guess is that the coils primary purpose is to prevent noise/spikes on the power bus.

A wire link would probably work albeit it wouldn't reduce noise...

Wish Walkera would provide circuit diagrams so we can repair these things.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Hey guys,

How can you tell if the servo gears have been stripped?
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 09:35 PM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repressor View Post
Hey guys,

How can you tell if the servo gears have been stripped?
It doesn't work right any longer. Arm hangs up, you crash for no reason.. You open it up and see teeth missing on the gear, etc..
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