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Old Dec 15, 2012, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
I'm volunteering to be that garbage bin!
That's a very kind offer. Unfortunately I slept on it and I'm hoping to find the solution some day.

So back to business, anyone has an idea about my problem, lets describe it differently
  • The FMD switch has stopped working.
  • When the throttle stick is in the bottom position I have full negative pitch and no throttle

Needless to say 3D is impossible this way.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by johan_alps View Post
It might well be, I can't see on the picture, but you can try to reattach broken strands by soldering them back on. you can also resolder an entirely new connector onto the main board. But then you have to verify that you haven't short circuited before attaching a battery again.
No probs will try and give it a go.....newbie question....what do you mean by "But then you have to verify that you haven't short circuited before attaching a battery again"?
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 06:50 AM
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you'll have bare wires very close together on the main board. If they touch each other (by a loose strand or by some soldering error the you'll have a short circuit. When you attach the battery it will unload all its power into itself with no resistance. It'll warm up, start smoking, ignite and possibly explode.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Yes, when it comes to electricity, "live" metal touching other "live" metal that is not supposed to be touching is bad news!!!

Your photos are too blurry for me to see clearly; however, it appears the Red wire's insulation may be damaged and is exposing bare metal wire at the back end of the LiPo connector. At that location, one exposed wire is not too critical, but is an accident waiting to happen (waiting for the black wire to get exposed). If the insulation is damaged and the bare wire is exposed, then I'd recommend repairing. (replace red wire, or carefully and securely add heat shrink over exposed section).

When working on electronics, most of the times making mistakes can be very costly. Not only can bad soldering damage the hardware, but when dealing with LiPo's, the possibility of fire damage may be life threatening.

All these things I've commented about in this post is so obvious, that if you didn't already know it, then it might be best to purchase a new Walkera LiPo mating wire harness:

Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Walkera Battery Connector/Wire Assy Sources:
Walkera 3.7V LiPo Female Connector @ $4.50/5ea

Walkera 3.7V LiPo Male Connector @ $5.70/6ea

Walkera 3.7V LiPo Male Connector @ $2.14/3ea

WowHobbies @ $2.50/pr

ChineseJade @ $2.50/pr

Hobby Town USA: Horizon Hobby/Losi Part Number LOSB0860 (Micro-T Connector Set w/wires) @ $3.00/pr (the wire color coding may be different than Walkera's)
Or incorporate the Micro Deans LiPo Connector mod:

Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Battery Connectors

Micro Deans, 10 pairs @ $6 (This is where livonia bob gets his)

NOTES:

Advantages:
  1. Wire can be re-soldered back on
  2. Less Resistance/Voltage (how much?) drop between connectors

Disadvantages:
  1. Weighs x grams more than stock connector
  2. Potential Hazard - Highly advised to use some kind of protective cover/plug at exposed contact to prevent LiPos from accidental mating/shorting to each other when loosely stored.
Then all you'd have to be very careful about is making certain "+" is connected to "+", and "-" is connected to "-", doing a safe soldering job at the RX board, making certain not to create any solder bridges, and that the wire insulations extend all the way to the board so that there's no possibility that the exposed ends of the wires are able touch each other or any other exposed electrical contact on that board.

If you decide to repair the old LiPo wire harness, then you'll have to know how to properly extract, repair, and re-insert the Connector contact. Trying to re-use the crimp type of Contact, by re-soldering can be accomplished if done carefully with a minimum amount of solder so the Contact can be properly and fully re-inserted back inside the Connetor. If the Contact's "V" tang/barb won't spring back open, then something wasn't mechanically done properly (my most likely guess would be too much solder which is not allowing the Contact to be fully inserted, and therefore improper positioning of "V", thereby not allowing the "V" to open up inside Connector's designated "V" hole.
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Last edited by i812; Dec 16, 2012 at 08:55 AM. Reason: add Micro Deans LiPo Connector mod info
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johan_alps View Post
anyone has an idea about my problem, lets describe it differently
  • The FMD switch has stopped working.
  • When the throttle stick is in the bottom position I have full negative pitch and no throttle
Ok now I know what a pitch curve is

All pitch curves and throttle curves were identical ( and totally messed up ). Probably some reset I did in one of the obvious devo7 menus ...
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 09:04 AM
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FWIW, I edited my above post, to add Micro Deans LiPo Connector mod info.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 08:16 AM
...if you take the time
Israel, Tel Aviv
Joined Jul 2012
212 Posts
A friend gave me a genius boom, so I fixed my boom and I'm back!
What is the recommended max temperature for the stock motor? Can I run batteries back-to-back if it stays below 70 celsius?
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 08:57 AM
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Kingdom of Sweden, Västra Götaland County, Lindome
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70C way to HOT!
That can't you touch with out burning your finger.
Max 40-50C is my recommendation.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 11:14 AM
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70C? Doesn't that start to melt the canopy?
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpleShark View Post
A friend gave me a genius boom, so I fixed my boom and I'm back!
What is the recommended max temperature for the stock motor? Can I run batteries back-to-back if it stays below 70 celsius?
Buy another Heli. Then you can alternate flying and go almost continueus.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 12:14 PM
...if you take the time
Israel, Tel Aviv
Joined Jul 2012
212 Posts
70C is what the manual suggests for the alarm. I don't believe I got it over 50C yet.
I'll try not to burn it
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PurpleShark View Post
70C is what the manual suggests for the alarm. I don't believe I got it over 50C yet.
I'll try not to burn it
During summer you will see 65+. Not a good idea to run back to back. I use to take a 3 minute break, even after I went brushless, since my tail is still brushed. Just use the break to think about how you did and what to practice next
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 01:03 PM
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Heads up, brushless 14000kv back in stock at HK, grab it while you can. Unbeatable price.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=25435
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 06:42 PM
Heli Crash Survivor
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United States, AR, North Little Rock
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbstnp View Post
Heads up, brushless 14000kv back in stock at HK, grab it while you can. Unbeatable price.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=25435
I got an arrival notice yesterday also. Anyone tried this yet? I have a HP05S that's awesome but timer set at 3 minutes flight time. C05M just doesn't cut it for me but has good flight time. Wondering flight time/power ratio with 350ma batteries with this compared to the C05M & HP05S.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 08:16 PM
Heli Crash Survivor
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United States, AR, North Little Rock
Joined Feb 2011
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Ordered one anyway. May be the best indoor combo with the MCP to fly this winter.
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