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Old Feb 15, 2013, 04:54 PM
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Shaft size on the S800-G is 1.2mm and the shaft on the S107 is only 1.0mm. It's a big enough difference that the main shaft head from the S107 won't fit without first drilling it out to 1.2mm (or 3/64"). Other than that it looks like the distance between the flybar hole and the pins for the blades is .5mm shorter for the S107 (8.0mm vs. 8.5mm) and the flat on the main shaft for securing the head from spinning is about a millimeter lower on the S107 head so in order to land squarely on the flats of the S800 main shaft the head will be raised about a millimeter. Too many little issues for me just to save a few cents. On the bright side, though, the S107 main shaft works great for balancing the flybar on your S800-G.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 03:53 PM
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Does anyone have a voltmeter/ohmeter that could measure the voltage across the LED. If you want to get really bold, could you measure the current through it (i know you will have to cut/disconnect it to do that). I'm wondering if I could power a small camera with it. Estimated 225mA power draw at 3.7V
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:15 PM
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Does anyone have a voltmeter/ohmeter that could measure the voltage across the LED. If you want to get really bold, could you measure the current through it (i know you will have to cut/disconnect it to do that). I'm wondering if I could power a small camera with it. Estimated 225mA power draw at 3.7V
2.93 v on the led. If you are looking for 3.7 volts, you would probably be wiser taking it off of the LiPo battery, before it goes to the board. Drop a diode or two on it, so it doesn't "backfeed" in any way, and you should be good to go.

Are you thinking of one of the "keychain" camera's?

R
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:55 PM
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Are you thinking of one of the "keychain" camera's?
R
yes. It works, but I would like a little less sluggish flight by reducing weight and running off one battery. Although for video, honestly I've fond the slower the better. Low light performance is OK. I had to put a load of double stick gel like tape to try and damp vibrations.








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Last edited by patmo141; Feb 18, 2013 at 09:57 PM. Reason: can't type
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 11:50 PM
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So, I'm having a new problem with this copter. I had what seemed like a pretty "light" crash yesterday, but now when I try to turn my s800g on, it doesn't do anything. If I push on the diode(??) on the bottom that has green paint on it, though, it will turn on while I am pressing on it, and sometimes stay on for a little bit (usually just dies right away), but when I throttle up on the controller, it turns back off. I can sometimes get the blades to spin when I am putting pressure on it though. I'm not really good at this stuff yet so I don't know what to look for and I haven't been able to find anything via Google as of yet.

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=5wwe12&s=6
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 12:52 AM
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The green shaded device is the IR sensor. It is a passive device. By itself, it should have any effect on the power of heli. But in your video, you clearly demonstrated that by pushing it with you thumb things worked temporarily. I'm guessing that there is a short created on the PCB. By pushing the way you were pushing it, whatever pressure that pinched the short was released. Something mechanical is creating an electrical issue.

If I were you, I would disassemble the frame and look for access to the PCB. By moving stuff, try isolating what is making contact, or breaking contact.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 01:36 PM
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It looks like the battery came disconnected. Although, it looks like it wasn't really attached well to begin with.

Thanks for the help again.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 01:48 PM
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It looks like the battery came disconnected. Although, it looks like it wasn't really attached well to begin with.

Thanks for the help again.
I've had one come off, on my mSR X, a hundred dollar heli. One thing that helps, when finding little idiosyncrasies on these copters - just keep thinking "$20 helicopter...$20 helicopter...$20 helicopter..."...
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 04:54 AM
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lol
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 11:15 AM
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It looks like the battery came disconnected. Although, it looks like it wasn't really attached well to begin with.

Thanks for the help again.
Does that mean you found and fixed the problem? I hope so.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 08:48 AM
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Broke the two knobs that hold the top blades in the Syma 800G shaft and the shaft seems to separate - also some small white spacer seemed to come out of some where The bird is only 20.00 the kit to fix is 8.00 I don;t need everything in the kit but buying just the shaft is almost as expensive

Should I fix or move on I do have 2.4 ghz v911 wichs is far better . . .

opinions wanted
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 09:40 AM
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Broke the two knobs that hold the top blades in the Syma 800G shaft and the shaft seems to separate - also some small white spacer seemed to come out of some where The bird is only 20.00 the kit to fix is 8.00 I don;t need everything in the kit but buying just the shaft is almost as expensive

Should I fix or move on I do have 2.4 ghz v911 wichs is far better . . .

opinions wanted
First inclination is of course to fix it. However, I'm not too clear on which exact part is broken and what you need. If you said $8 to fix, you must have identified the part. Price seems a little high for a S800G part. So, could you please share the link with us, and perhaps we could search for a cheaper source?

For starter, I read that you talked about the part that holds the top blades, so here is the head assembly/shaft and blade grip for price comparison.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 10:50 AM
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First inclination is of course to fix it. However, I'm not too clear on which exact part is broken and what you need. If you said $8 to fix, you must have identified the part. Price seems a little high for a S800G part. So, could you please share the link with us, and perhaps we could search for a cheaper source?

For starter, I read that you talked about the part that holds the top blades, so here is the head assembly/shaft and blade grip for price comparison.
http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S800G-Hel...yma+800g+parts


It is the head assembly shaft that I need - The two post that the blade grips connect to that broke off. I was experiencing TBE Toilet Bowl Effect and I'll bet it was due to one tab being broke. I took the top screws on teh shaft off and the top of the shaft (all the plastic) comes off I'll bet that's where the little white spacer came from. Now to see what shipping charges are
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 04:34 PM
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I took the top screws on the shaft off and the top of the shaft (all the plastic) comes off I'll bet that's where the little white spacer came from. Now to see what shipping charges are

Nope the white washer or spacer is on the blades - now to find it off the floor
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 05:09 PM
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I see. Did you click on the links I sent you in my post? That sounded to me that you have broke the pivot pins off the head assembly. Don't feel bad; it is a classic break. Many of us have broken the same part. But if so, you don't need to order the whole set of parts. Just click on the link and ordered the Head assembly/shaft.

Actually as you said, the plastic head comes off the shaft. You don't even need to replace the shaft. That part costs all but $1.75 shipped!!! I think it will cost me over $1 of postage to send that part half way around the world. It's quite a deal! I'd say, definitely fix it! Now, the cheap source being so far away, will take 3 weeks or so to get it. Just want you to know. Order some extra parts if you want. Most prices would drop if you order 3 or more.
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