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Old Apr 12, 2012, 01:58 PM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
South-west France
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Love it Sparks, looks great. Plenty of time to finish off the bits and bobs!
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 02:08 PM
Sic itur ad Astra
sparks59's Avatar
United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi, Abu Dhabi
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Thanks George. I should be able to get it done over this weekend.
I have all the parts set aside to finish it. Haven't yet decided how i will hinge the surfaces. I have clear tape but don't like it really. Recently I have used cover material (solarfilm) as it makes easy, free running hinges but won't really go on the solite tissue replica stuff, unless I can fashion some small black hinges.
Alternatively I still have some mylar sheet or CA hinges but the surfaces are maybe a tad thin for these. We'll see!
sparks
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 02:14 PM
Visitor from Reality
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HI Sparks
I had some very thin mylar hinges handy - no idea where I got them from regretably, but they were thin enough to do the job on my 2X Raven's 1/8" thick tailfeathers. I cut the hinges in half, to around 1/4" wide as well.

Which leaves Solarfilm etc hinges or - sharp intake of breath - sewn figure of eight hinges! They actually work with glossy heatshrink coverings as long as you stick the covering down well where the hinges go, and then put a little blob of PVA white glue on each hinge where the thread disappears into the wood.

What can happen if you don't secure the thread with glue like that? Let's say I remember it well and wouldn't wish it on anyone's model...

Sewn hinges do add a significant amount of clout to a model like this though.

D
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 02:19 PM
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hmmm, now you have me thinking Dereck!
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 02:53 PM
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She looks beautifull Sparks!
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 02:54 PM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
South-west France
Joined Sep 2007
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I've hinged 1/8" surfaces with hinges cut 1/4" wide from a piece of clear heatshrink of the type we used to use on nicad and nimh battery packs. In fact all six models I have built in the last year have used these hinges and they are fine, they are thin enough to fit in a slot cut with a No 10A scalpal blade, I drill and pin them with cocktail sticks - roll the cocktail stick under a scalpal to cut it halfway through at the appropriate point equal to the thickness of the surface from the end, spot of cyano in the drilled hole, push in the stick, wait a moment then just snap it off flush with the surface.

Sewn figure eight hinges are also good though, but use a jig to mark them so you get them dead even, nothing looks worse than wandering lines of stitching!
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 11:44 AM
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My favourite method of hinging surfaces on small models is to use the foil packaging from the scalpal blades.
It is a thin foil that is coated so it makes it very plyable and durable and provides next to no resistance to even the smallest servos.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 02:55 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions and positive comments guys.

Well, its finished as far as it will be until after the maiden!

Apologies for the yellow wheels and orange prop, these were the only ones to hand for the moment. I'll prob fit black wheels after the maiden when i'll also make the u/c spats and possibly fit a tailwheel.

In the end I decided to use some mylar (floppy disk) for the hinges. They went in easily with a knife slot and feel good and secure but i will peg them just to be certain.

I'm fairly pleased with the result but will also put a man in the office and decorate the interior after the first few flights.

sparks
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 04:36 PM
Dog is my co-pilot
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She looks great. Best of luck on the maiden!

P
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 09:54 PM
Visitor from Reality
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Joined Dec 1996
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Very nice Sparks - the 'rhubarb and custard' look wins out again.

I flew my Raven 2X on a pair of Williams Bros WW1 style wheels - probably cost more than the airframe's woodwork and covering It now has some slightly lesser diameter and much lighter wheels in boring old white with black tyres.

Your clear canopy does you proud. I should have, but copped out for a silver film covered balsa one. Nowhere near as classy. My pilot follows the FROG motif line, in a comical sort of way - should really have put the time into proper FROG decals for the fin, of course, but I never have been very good at finishing.

Test flying mine proved very anti-climatic. It just took off and flew like it knew how. No reason yours should not perform in like fashion.

Good luck all the same. Just in case

Dereck
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 11:51 PM
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Thanks Dereck, I might have to wait until next weekend before getting a chance to get some sky under the wings. Suppose it gives me the opportunity to make a Frog logo!

The canopy was carefully cut from a clear bottle of plastic hand cleanser that I bought in the local co-op. Carefully selected for its size and the shape! Decanted the content into the old square bottle so I didn't waste it or have to wait for it to be empty. It needed a little bit of reshaping to conform to the rear former, but otherwise fitted fairly well. Screws fitted for ease of removal later.

C of G is a tad behind the lower wing spar. It is with the calculated limits but I am going to change the prop / driver anyway so I think i'll get it on the spar for the maiden. Any thoughts on this guys?
sparks
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 01:31 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
South-west France
Joined Sep 2007
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Well done Sparks, looks great. I've marked it up as "finished" on the build off thread. Re the CG, Derek will no doubt tell you where it is on his model, but on the spar sounds OK to me. One of the nice things about these "rubber model" conversions is that, with the longer nose layout, getting the CG right is easier than on many vintage power models. I'm sure that the first flight will be fine, but good luck anyway.
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 12:16 PM
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Thanks George.
I have changed the prop for an 8 x 3.8 sf which I think will work ok with the 2s lipo. Feels like there is enough thrust for relaxed flight.
Also added a small Frog logo on the rudder.
RAVEN text for the wing will be added when I get the lettering cut out.

Dereck, where did you place the C of G?

Control throws, I'm sure that I have ended up with far more than needed. The rudder can touch the elevator each side on full rates! I think i'll try the maiden on low, and see how it goes but will prob alter the rod position on the servo / horn to give less throw.

sparks
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 04:34 AM
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Looks good Sparks, I like the moulded canopy.

Jon
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 11:02 AM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
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Hi Sparks
Mine flew with the CG 2.25" aft of the wing LE at the centre section, measured back from the former at the wing LE.

Rudder throw was fine for 'proper' flying - and some un-FROG-ish hopping around - at 3/4" each way for rudder and 1/4" each way for elevator.

Flew mine on a 7 x 4 APC parkflyer prop. On 2S LiPo, it must have produced some watts, but can't recall the exact number beyond 'not many'

Dereck
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Last edited by Dereck; Apr 16, 2012 at 11:34 AM.
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