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Old Jan 05, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Bob SF's Avatar
USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Aug 2003
605 Posts
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Vintage & Old-Timer Build-Off - Out O' Sight

Hi Everyone,
Normally, I'm an scale RC boater, but I dabble in airplanes as well and I'd like to jump into the Build-Off with the Out O' Sight (O.O.S) design by Thomas Cross (1939). I am currently finishing a Bowden Contest and my building board is mostly vacant. The plan is to build an RC version of the O.O.S., using a brushless motor, and sinning on the design just a bit so that I can RC and electrify the old design. I will be getting rid of the airfoil in the stabilizer, lengthening the nose, and modifying the structure of the wing (but keeping the same outline and airfoil). I haven't built a diamond shaped fuselage since I was 14 and I can't wait to get started.
Bob SF
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 01:56 AM
Use your imagination....
czirh's Avatar
Turkey, Izmir, Seferihisar
Joined Oct 2007
1,165 Posts
Hi Bob SF,
nice model, I will follow this thread..

Cem
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 09:31 AM
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United States, WI, Elm Grove
Joined Apr 2007
414 Posts
There's a great variety of old timers currently being built on this forum. Thanks for adding the Out O' Sight to the list. I've never seen the plane built.

Jim
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 11:41 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
South-west France
Joined Sep 2007
5,006 Posts
Subscribed and watching with interest - looks like a nice building project.
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 12:10 PM
Since 1952
Harry D's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Oct 2004
1,371 Posts
A bit more info, in case anyone missed it:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=416
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=423

So many planes, so little time...
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 11:06 PM
Registered User
Holland, Michigan
Joined Dec 2006
398 Posts
That is a real cutie!!! You can't wait to start it and I can't wait to watch your build. That will be a neat project. I'm curious to see how you tackle the diamond.

Regards,

Larry
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Bob SF's Avatar
USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Aug 2003
605 Posts
Hi all, first off, thank you for the encouragement. While sitting home with a cold and sounding like Barry White, I've been studying the plans. The fun part of this build is to get the layout right for the servos, speed control, battery, and receiver. I'm thinking of extending the wing riser into the fuselage and use that plate to mount the servos under the CG, inline on their sides, with the arms on opposite sides, servo arms facing up into the tallest part of the fuselage. This will allow me to keep the servos inside the fuselage. You could simplify the build by screwing the servos into the walls of the fuselage, but it wouldn't look as pretty. Since I'm adding around three inches to the fuselage, just behind the existing motor mount bulkhead, I can use the space below for the Lipo. A "V" shaped section of the bottom of the fuselage, behind the new location for the landing gear (at the new motor mount bulkhead), will drop out of the airplane for battery access. The new space behind the motor mount (up top) will be for the speed control, followed aft by the two opposite facing inline servos, and then the receiver will go in the upper part of the fuselage. There will be two small doors in the upper part of the fuselage for accessing servos (maintenance/replacement). I've read the post by another builder of the O.O.S. and he wanted to have more tail moment to turn the plane. I'm going to reduce the size of the sub-rudder and increase the size of the tail and rudder to make sure that this plane will turn. The single spar in the wing will be replaced by a 1/8" x 1/4" spruce spar, top and bottom, and webbed with 1/16" balsa sheet. Another single spar will be added further back in the ribs. The leading edge and center section will be sheeted in 1/16" balsa as well (center section glassed). This maybe a bit overkill, but I want to be able to loop the O.O.S. without fear of wing failure (personal experience....don't recommend it....think plummet with bits of wing fragments as parasitic drag). I'll probably sheet the front of the fuselage and two panels where the servo pushrods exit. I'll use these sheeted pushrod exit areas for the exhaust air vent holes. Air inlet holes in the battery box cover and the speed control compartment should allow sufficient airflow to keep all the electronics cool. Any ideas for a color scheme? Once I feel safe to handle a #11 exacto blade, I'll get started....Barry White will have to move on. Build pics to follow.
Bob SF
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 04:03 PM
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USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Aug 2003
605 Posts
Hi Everyone,
My cold is doing better and I no longer sound like an FM disc jockey. With that in mind, my workshop has been busy and the fuselage for the OOS is almost done. Changes to the original method of construction include a laminated riser for the wing, sheet formers for the triangle frames, and using 1/4" thick balsa for the crutch assembly. The build has gone pretty smoothly so far. It is interesting to note that the fuselage appeared to emerge from the building board since the fuselage is built right-side up. Since the build picture was taken, I've covered the bottom of the fuselage in 1/16" sheet (front bulkhead to the back of the riser). The removeable battery hatch turned out great. I built the hatch in place and cut the bottom stringer to free it from the fuselage assembly. I wanted to be able to capture the curve of the bottom in the hatch assembly. Today's adventure includes running a stringer on each side of the riser for the fuselage top sheeting to tie into. This style of assembly is very different from anything I've built in a long time...fun.....but different.
Bob SF
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 04:21 PM
Since 1952
Harry D's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Oct 2004
1,371 Posts
Watching with interest, Bob. Have you decided on a power system yet?
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Bob SF's Avatar
USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Aug 2003
605 Posts
Hi Harry,
I don't know what size electric motor I will use at this point. I like to get all of the parts built/covered and weigh them first. Then I'll ask a buddy of mine to run a MotoCALC session for me to see what the computer program comes up with for a recommendation. From that data, I go through the specs on motors to see what seems reasonable. I would like to be able to use an existing Lipo battery that I already own, so that will be another variable to throw into the mix. Since the plane will be built before the motor goes on, I have to think about color scheme at this point. I'm thinking yellow, with blue trim.
Thanks for your interest, Bob SF
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 07:42 PM
AMA 13456 NSRCA 4513
Jeff Worsham's Avatar
Rio Rancho, NM
Joined Nov 2007
221 Posts
Hi Bob- Great model! Plus you have the added benefit of building from a vintage Model Builder plan. Watching with interest - a real treat.
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 08:05 PM
The dog ate my clearance
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Joined Jan 2004
1,096 Posts
Great looking design. I'll be along for the ride....
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Bob SF's Avatar
USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Aug 2003
605 Posts
Hi Everyone,
The front of the fuselage is skinned in 1/16" balsa, the servos are in, the tail assembly has been built, and the pushrods have been installed. I'm thinking of cutting access holes in the fuselage sheeting and monokoting over them and use the monokote as the door to gain access to the servos for maintenance. I think I'll hold off on attaching the landing gear until I get the motor choice figured out. There isn't much room on the firewall and the landing gear will have to be mounted to clear the motor mount. I'll probably have to use extentions on the motor mount to push the motor out to clear the landing gear wire. The wing comes next.
Bob SF
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 10:43 PM
Hatters gonna hat.
madbomber's Avatar
United States, CO, Denver
Joined Apr 2011
359 Posts
Looks good. I can't wait to get a workshop setup so I can start building.
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 01:32 PM
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Bob SF's Avatar
USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Aug 2003
605 Posts
Hi Madbomber, don't forget to have heat in your workshop. My shop is not heated and in winter.....glue takes a long time to dry. Good luck with your project.
Bob SF
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