I found out, from Grosbeak, that this a feature in the RTF version where bolts go through the tail securing the horz stab and vert stab to the fuse. So, nothing is missing. Just have to epoxy it all together.

-bill

Thanks again Bill , its starting look like an airplane now !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Many times in the course of building this plane they had me trim some of the covering away so the glue could do its job. My question is in a few places I trimmed a little more than I should have and you can see the wood at the joint , is there any way to make it look a little better. I keep thinking of paint to touch it up but wasn't sure how it would react when heating the covering at times to remove wrinkles .

That happened to me when installing the horz stab. I had some model train paint (CSX blue) lying around that was a close match to the blue covering. I painted the area that would be exposed, let it dry, and then glued it in. I haven't noticed the covering coming loose in the corners at all. Also, as I was gluing, some of the epoxy sealed that area as I was wiping off the excess.

-bill

I'd like to do some touch up but I don't want a mess on my hands down the road when all that nitro fuel gets all over everything . I picked up some testers oil base paint in those little bottles but I don't know if it will hold up to the fuel unless there is something else that I could put over the paint to seal it from the fuel .Any suggestions ?

You could thin down some epoxy with a little rubbing alcohol and cover the area. I did that to fuel proof the engine compartment.

-bill

Microwaving your epoxy bottles for about 10 seconds will make it as thin as water.

Either way would make it easier to apply , now if I could just add the paint to the epoxy I could touch up some spots and it all would match. There is a spray paint that my local hobby guy says will withstand the nitro fuel but I wanted a paint I could brush on , maybe I could spray it into the lid and brush it on , it was a common spray paint I just can't remember the name , I'll find out and post it .

Just came to me ,he said rust-oleum was fuel proof , not sure you might want to check it out first .

I'M trying hook up my throttle rod , directions tell me to use a metal clevis that came with the kit , but it won't fit the holes in the throttle arm on my 65LA , not sure if I should drill the holes out or find a different clevis . Also the clevis tightens up to the point where it won't pivot on the throttle arm ?

Drilling out the hole, if need be, isn't a big issue. I had to do that as well when I put on the metal clevis. Now my plane didn't initially come with a metal clevis. I chose to swap out the included plastic one plus they instructions had me to use a set screw connector for the throttle arm which was a total PITA to tighten up because of the location of the arm with the inside of the engine compartment. Maybe it's different on your LA as opposed to my AX? Anywho, I digress.

The metal clevis doesn't really over-close like a plastic one can, or at least mine didn't or I didn't force it, but whatever the situation you shouldn't need to pinch it so tight that it restricts movement. Using a bit of fuel tubing will help keep the clevis from opening. Now, I did have to be careful not to slide the tubing too far forward on the clevis because that would've inhibited the throttle arm movement.

Fun stuff, huh?

-bill

On this particular model MKII, the landing gear is junk and will bend easily. Upgrade the landing gear to a Dubro solid plastic rears and Fults twin strut front. You'll thank me after your first flight.