that looks really cool. im glad you made your own as i dont understand why people waste money on stuff. as always
to each, his own

but like one of my real life, non R/C friends said this winter. "i dont know what any of yours planes are except your tv planes. because they look more like a hot mess".

here's the secret truth. people can waste all the money they want on pan/tilt/retract/extend/we mounts that have to use leverage because the servos are pissy (hello hxt500/900/hs55/ect) and god forbid something ever had a jolt as the pissy gear trains or control arm set screw would all strip instantly... or you can just buy a bigger, cheaper faster, more accurate, more reliable servo with the heft to put up with abuse & come out less on cost & about the same on weight....


step 1) go on a forum/newsgroup/ebay and win an auction for used mini to standard sized (NOT MICRO) NAME BRAND SERVOS. Not chinese crap. Not Hitec Crap. Quality brand... Airtronics/Sanwa, Futaba or JR ONLY. NOT WASTING TIME WITH METAL GEARS because the OEM is too aquire & work with nylon in the first place. (hi hs 55/65/75/85 MG's...) Nylon. NYLON GEARS.
Step 2) Thick CA or epoxy, yes EPOXY servo cases together to achieve desired pan/tilt/extend. not hot glue. not PU, not double sided sticky velco tape... epoxy.
Step 3) congratulations. for 1/4 the cost of JUST a laser cut ply "cockpitty replacement tray" you now have a more compact, mount anywhere camera system. And if you're rich, you can spend money on (gasp) new servos... which because they're not "specialty" micro servos are cheaper.




or you know... spend 40+ bucks on a mount so you can still put hxcrapt servos on it & wont come out any better in the weight department.


#justsayin

I started some work on the camera bowl.

Originally Posted by Toysrme

that looks really cool. im glad you made your own as i dont understand why people waste money on stuff. as always
to each, his own

but like one of my real life, non R/C friends said this winter. "i dont know what any of yours planes are except your tv planes. because they look more like a hot mess".

here's the secret truth. people can waste all the money they want on pan/tilt/retract/extend/we mounts that have to use leverage because the servos are pissy (hello hxt500/900/hs55/ect) and god forbid something ever had a jolt as the pissy gear trains or control arm set screw would all strip instantly... or you can just buy a bigger, cheaper faster, more accurate, more reliable servo with the heft to put up with abuse & come out less on cost & about the same on weight....


step 1) go on a forum/newsgroup/ebay and win an auction for used mini to standard sized (NOT MICRO) NAME BRAND SERVOS. Not chinese crap. Not Hitec Crap. Quality brand... Airtronics/Sanwa, Futaba or JR ONLY. NOT WASTING TIME WITH METAL GEARS because the OEM is too aquire & work with nylon in the first place. (hi hs 55/65/75/85 MG's...) Nylon. NYLON GEARS.
Step 2) Thick CA or epoxy, yes EPOXY servo cases together to achieve desired pan/tilt/extend. not hot glue. not PU, not double sided sticky velco tape... epoxy.
Step 3) congratulations. for 1/4 the cost of JUST a laser cut ply "cockpitty replacement tray" you now have a more compact, mount anywhere camera system. And if you're rich, you can spend money on (gasp) new servos... which because they're not "specialty" micro servos are cheaper.




or you know... spend 40+ bucks on a mount so you can still put hxcrapt servos on it & wont come out any better in the weight department.


#justsayin

http://www.coolmodels.gr/pantilt-wit...ted-p-620.html

Do you mean something like that?

This is how it should work.
I have not worked on the door design yet.

That looks cool man, can you have it so it keeps popping up so you can see above the plane too?

Given the turret ball is at the end of a lever, I'd worry that it would bounce around a fair bit with vibration. Perhaps when it's on the down position the top deck could rest on a shelf or something to provide support

How much would you charge to build a custom pan/tilt mount for my Tau 320?

It vill have vibration dampeners.
At the moment, I am stuck as the molds did not come out.
I am using a printer timing belt. Any advice how to glue it to make it endless?

Originally Posted by PistaJ

I am using a printer timing belt. Any advice how to glue it to make it endless?

I've seen plastic chain and sprocket like this for servos. Might be better.
http://www.servocity.com/html/servo_...s___chain.html

edit: Maybe this
http://www.robotcombat.com/products/VEX-276-2166.html

I thought you were using belts and cogs from a rc electric car!
Have a look at rcmushroom lotsa belts there!
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/advanced_...sort=1a&page=1

Thanks for the advice
considering the price, I ordered this set 2 weeks ago:
http://www.robotcombat.com/products/VEX-276-2166.html
Until I get it I will continue working on the belt version. The belt needs some tension to work correctly and that tension somehow prevents the camera shaft from turning freely.
I would have to ad bearings to it.
If the tension is released, it works OK
Servocity chain has no technical data. I think they are selling this one:
https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail...49&GroupID=446

I need to save the molds and find a way of gluing the belt

Originally Posted by PistaJ

The belt needs some tension to work correctly and that tension somehow prevents the camera shaft from turning freely.

You need a bearing/support on both sides of the rotating gear. This keeps the tension from the belt from canting the rotation rod over in the direction of the tension.

They might add cost, but could help with durability

http://www.servocity.com/html/servoblocks.html

I was able to save the molds. They suffered a few chips, but I was able to repair it.
The difficould part is done than.
The bearings are not needed any more, I laminated the placing of the shaft and it got better.
I will no more need the belt as the chain set has arrived. It is just what I needed. Using the chain will be much easier.