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Old Dec 30, 2011, 04:05 PM
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Pacific Northwest US
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Build Log
Telemaster 40 Deluxe Build

Telemaster 40 Deluxe kit

First, let me say my intention is to objectively log my build experience as best I can. Issues are important to new builders, so I'm including what I found and my resolution of the issue.

Parts received in good order. Wood of good quality and laser cut parts are well done.

I have also discovered that epoxy will not adhere to silicone baking cups! I've included some pics of that for your enjoyment! I also included the obligatory pic of my clamp stash.

Today, completed through Step16, fuselage assembly, minus frames 5, 6 and 7. Parts go together will with almost no interpretation needed. I followed directions for adhesives (CA + 60 min epoxy). The register pin idea is great for setting parts while gluing.

Issues:
- If using tricycle gear, check to make sure you have the correct blind nuts for your choice of nose gear bolt/screw before assembly.
- Fuselage floor (FF) and Frame 3 (F3) include steps intended to go around the 1/32 ply doubler (FD) at a location where this is not needed. I trimmed FF and F3 to have only one width (omit the step) (see photos).
- 1/4 x 1/4 stringers are supposed to but against FD. However, doing this leaves a space between the stringer and forward structural members. I extended the stringer forward to butt against the fuselage wing saddle (FWS) and the landing gear brace (GB) (see photos).
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 08:35 PM
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Great just got one of these, just waiting to get time to start on it ,I will be following along
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Have a question for you the first thing that the assembly manual has you to put together is the firewall FW-A and FW-B and mine dont like the picture in the manual did yours thanks
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 01:02 PM
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Status as of Fuselage Step 30

Completed fuselage up to Step 30 and have assembled the electric motor mount (MM). Holding here for hardware and electronics and moving to Stabilizer assembly.

Issues:
- The unused landing gear brace slots are supposed to be filled with a part identified in the instructions as "LG-PLUG" A and B. These parts were not identified on the parts list and not located, so I used an equivalent part FLHP-A and B to plug the forward LG slot. I hope I have that right. If not, I'll make a new FLHP from scrap. (hey, at least I've got a Plan B)
- @gstockton: I found FWA & FWB without difficulty. Included pics FYI. Note the edge view showing how the firewall assembly connects to fuselage sides with doubler. I had to try several orientations of assembly here before I found the "right" one.
- Some tabs do not go entirely through to the outside surface of the fuselage, so I've filled the gaps with standard wood putty. Not a big deal for me.
- The tail ventral surface assembly pic shows the good quality of the tab/slot design. The fuselage is very sturdy.
- I used styrofoam blocks to support the fuse while clamped so that the clamps don't get knocked off. Be sure to have alot of wide gap clamps to fit around the fuse.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 11:10 AM
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I have another question the fuseage side are joined by a finger joint at the front that you apply thin ca to, mine dont fit tight enough for thin ca to work did your fit tight or did you use some other kind of glue, also i didnt get any blind nuts or the wing hold down bolts i have not call Hobby Lobby yet but i sure they will send them
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 01:04 PM
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gstockton, I used thin CA to tack on a building board using the "ruler hold-down" method HL shows in the instructions. Then, I followed up with medium CA to fill in.

Ahhh, hardware. I had a similar issue that I'll address in my next post. HL responded to my questions on the matter; they should do the same for you.

P
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 10:24 AM
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USA, NC, Wilmington
Joined Aug 2006
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PWHAVENS, thanks for your posts regarding the Telemaster build!!!

I started mine yesterday and made the changes you suggested.

I'll post any additional pertinent info/photos as I progress.
I'm planning on installing LED's internally for night flying.
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 11:05 AM
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United States, VA, Arlington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gstockton View Post
I have another question the fuseage side are joined by a finger joint at the front that you apply thin ca to, mine dont fit tight enough for thin ca to work did your fit tight or did you use some other kind of glue, also i didnt get any blind nuts or the wing hold down bolts i have not call Hobby Lobby yet but i sure they will send them
PVA type woodworking glues - my present one is 'Titebond II' - work well in this kind of situation. You do have to live with longer setting times, but get a strong, flexible joint. I buy the smallest bottle in my local hardware store - that'll do me for several models.

Good luck with your model, can't beat building your own - that way, you know who made the critical joints

Dereck
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 12:04 PM
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Status as of completing fuselage

Sanded entire fuselage, rounded edges and feathered forward bottom sheeting. I discovered that both the forward hatch cover and hatch magnet platform had warped in opposite directions causing the hatch cover to wobble with gaps on either side when installed. I added shims to the side rails on the fuselage and magnet platform and sanded them to make an even mating surface. After sanding, the shims are about 2 mm deep and feathered to the high points. The sanded feathering exposed the magnet.

In the meantime, I’ve purchased the power and control electronics including 60A ESC; “.46” size 800kV, 1000 constant watt, brushless motor; and 4500 mah, 5S LiPo batteries. With my estimated inputs, MotoCalc indicates this setup will provide sufficient power without overheating with a smaller, 10 x 5 prop. I doubt that, but we’ll see, eh?

Issues:
- While working with the blind nuts, I was confused by the instruction diagrams which showed a slew of nuts and bolts that did not match the bagged parts. Hobby Lobby sent me a timely response to my inquiry about this, saying that the instructions showed a generic parts list and that they will consider including a specific parts list in the future. They described for me which nuts/bolts went where.
- I’ve concluded I just don’t understand the logic behind the manufacturer’s selection of parts to be included. Some parts I would have considered essential were not included, such as the nylon wing bolts and main landing gear axle bolts. The instructions do include a wooden part cross-reference list that is a very good idea; I refer to it often. However, a listing of included parts and specific recommendations for parts to fully complete the model are notably absent.
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
PVA type woodworking glues - my present one is 'Titebond II' - work well in this kind of situation. You do have to live with longer setting times, but get a strong, flexible joint. I buy the smallest bottle in my local hardware store - that'll do me for several models.

Good luck with your model, can't beat building your own - that way, you know who made the critical joints

Dereck
Agree!
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 12:32 PM
Visitor from Reality
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The mess made over the nuts, bolts and washers is pretty bad. These parts are critical to holding the model together and should either have been included and listed, or at least listed so the builder could fuss at having to go buying again, but knows what to buy.

As the saying goes, it's a funny old world. Something else that springs to mind is an old English magazine writing that goes something like 'A kit is a collection of parts that must be identified, cut out, shaped, sanded and made to fit, ands will eventually form a model aircraft'.

I sometimes suspect there's a reason that all my models are built by my custom design/build/finish service

Good luck. I wouldn't let this bug you too much, though I agree with you that it's annoying.

Regards

Dereck
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 02:23 PM
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Status through horizontal stabilizer

The stabilizer went together well.

Issues:
- The parts noted in step 9 should be stabilizer tip (ST), stabilizer false leading edge (SFLE) and stabilizer false trailing edge (SFTE).
- Don’t forget the blind nuts.
- Hold removing the dash-cut material (Step 13) until after completing the vertical stabilizer so that you can trim the two assemblies to mate well.
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Last edited by pwhavens; Jan 15, 2012 at 02:41 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 07:26 PM
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Status as of Elevator, Rudder and Vertical Stabilizer

The elevator assembly involves adding a laminated hardwood-balsa joiner (EJ-A and EJ-B) to the balsa elevator. I believe there is only one way this goes together.

The rudder parts are marked so that there is only one way the parts go together. Mine went together well.

The vertical stabilizer (identified as the vertical fin in the instructions) parts are keyed to go together only one way. Mine went together well.

Issues:
- In vertical stabilizer step 6, trim the bottom of V5 to align with the opening in V4, not V1 as indicated. I am holding sanding the stabilizer until ready to assemble the empennage.


BTW, the aluminum square tube section is filled with lead split shot and epoxy. It works well for a right angle weight.
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 08:55 PM
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Status through wing joiner platform assembly

The wing joiner platform is a complex assembly requiring several parts to be assembled simultaneously. It is important to prepare all the parts, place them in a safe place and test fit them all before putting glue to anything! I lost (threw away?) part WP-B2 in the heat of battle and had to make another.

After laminating the joiner with epoxy, I braced it well and glued it to the platform with epoxy. Then, I CA’d the filler (WP-F) as indicated. I marked the left and right ribs to account for small irregularities in fit and trim. Then, I test fit the remaining parts before gluing .

I put the assembly together as a unit using slow-set epoxy.

Issues:
- The wing joiner is laminated from aircraft ply. Directions note how to put these together to minimize warp issues. My plywood parts sheet was so twist-warped that it retained some warp after lamination and affected the angle between the platform and joiner. This required taking great care with the side ribs (WP-2) when sliding them into position, but did not prevent final assembly.
- The take-home lesson from this assembly is to prepare ALL parts, keep them in a safe place and test fit them as an assembly before putting glue to anything. If you follow the fit-glue sequence of steps 4, 5 and 6, for example, you will find the center rib will not be able to fit in between the false leading edge and the wing joiner. So, I prepared and test fit all parts and put them together with slow-set epoxy – what a mess! My preferred installation sequence for steps 4 – 10 is:
1. WP-1A and WP-FLE
2. WP-1B
3. WP 2 on both sides
4. WP-B1 and B2 sliding them down on notches in the ribs
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 03:20 AM
Who said Kiwi's can't fly!
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Hawkes Bay , New Zealand
Joined Feb 2008
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Ive been following this build as I have a plan for a 73 inch Telemaster that I intend to build one day.. yours is coming along nicely and you will have a great flying model when its finished , what did the old original ad say......... nothing flys like a Telemaster..

Grant.
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