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Old Jan 18, 2012, 06:45 AM
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AshtonFlyer's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jurgen Heilig View Post
What's all the fuzz about increasing airflow? With an efficient drive system, dissipating heat should really not be an issue.

Jürgen

I'm not sure my system will be efficient - I'd rather have 'too much' cooling than too little - I'd prefer my plane not to burst into flames in mid-air due to an overheated ESC. I have just ordered a watt meter to test the system before installing it though. Foresight over hindsight.

(especially as I intend to mount my ESC in a region of the fuse not designed for it, in light of issues arising from overlong cabling)
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 07:43 AM
Agricultural flyer
mixer421's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Aug 2007
508 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by scrtsqrl View Post
For those of you using the #11 keychain cam on your EZ* (have to stay on topic somehow...lols), what are y'all using to edit your .mov files? Sony Vegas seems to degrade the videos quality. I'd be happy if I can just cut/trim videos.

Thanks!
I use VLC, it's not free but fairly easy to use and has plenty of options.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 07:46 AM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrtsqrl View Post
For those of you using the #11 keychain cam on your EZ* (have to stay on topic somehow...lols), what are y'all using to edit your .mov files? Sony Vegas seems to degrade the videos quality. I'd be happy if I can just cut/trim videos.

Thanks!
Adobe Premiere CS4, love it. :-)

Rick NR417
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 08:03 AM
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by jj604 View Post
Rick, they have produced cables that plug into the Trainer (control pulses) and sometimes charger port (to power the module) of popular transmitters so it is pretty much a non-hack job. Just plug it in and go. Some Tx automatically turn off RF when you plug in the trainer plug, others (eg Spektrum) work in trainer mode if you plug in the cord and leave the Tx main switch off. Some will continue to transmit normally at the same time (a bit inelegant IMO).

A really neat solution (similar to other 2.4 add-on modules) to add a decent transmitter to the micro planes with the Tactic Rx. I bet it will be popular. My impression is this is not a long range system though. Will have to wait tilll they are actually tested in practice.
Yep, I tried the trainer port method when I first started trying to escape 72MHz on my Futaba T7CAP, I found that it was a really shoddy connection at best and prone to intermittent connection breaks any time I moved. A FAR better solution and the one I still use, is to open the TX, find a PPM, ground, and VCC trace on the boards, and solder directly to them. I used a servo lead pigtail, cut and lead through a small hole in the back of the TX. I can now run 72MHz, 2.4GHz (FRSky module) or my trusty DragonLink whenever I want. I disable the internal 72MHz by removing the crystal, but otherwise the system is entirely intact, and I experience no problems with it like this. My external modules attach to the back of the TX by velcro strip.

I can even run the internal 72MHz at the same time as the external modules... I'm sure there's a use for that there somewhere. ;-)

I still say that anytime an addon shows up that claims to be "a 2.4GHz upgrade for virtually ANY transmitter", there will be fine print somewhere after it that states, "Some transmitters may need minor modifications in order to be used with MagicTranny". "Minor", is a very relative term. :-)

Rick NR417
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 08:10 AM
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by eckace1 View Post
For sure its dimpled but was woundering how best to glue it all back together.
CA or 3m-90.

What have you experts in repairing done?
Wouldn't necessarily call myself an expert buuuut....

I've most often used regular department store CA (Loctite Industrial Strength) for repairs on my birdie. The most important thing is selecting a glue that will penetrate the foam just a little. That way, in order to re-break, it has to take new foam with it. IMHo glue flexibility isn't as important as that. Also, if I need to do a repair that has gaps in it, I use Gorilla Glue White. It foams as it cures, it's strong as a moose in heat, and matches the color of the white foams quite nicely. I have several spots of it on my poor EZ*, where using CA wouldn't really have worked out.

Just now realizing that it's been months since I did any crash repair on my EZ.... Nice! :-)

Rick NR417
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 08:22 AM
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I remember reading recently that someone pin-pricked the foam area to receive the glue beforehand to improve penetration.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 08:25 AM
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I've heard of that but I don't see it as necessary... All my new breaks are along new paths, never had a CA joint break cleanly on my EZ or my Falcon, and never did anything to help penetration.

Edit: I'd like to add though that I have had glue joints break along the glue before... but that was GG white and it was along the factory seams, which are generally laminiated or heat finished and thus a little less penetrable, even with CA. That said, I'd still not do it along the facory seams with CA on an EasyStar, for the simple reason that if you ever want to take the fuse apart, it'll be a lot more damaging. Best suggestion I've ever heard for initial assembly is light CA gluing with tape run around the tail boom to help keep things together. Someday when I retire my present EZ, I'll do that on the new one.

Rick NR417
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 08:59 AM
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
I'm not sure my system will be efficient - I'd rather have 'too much' cooling than too little - I'd prefer my plane not to burst into flames in mid-air due to an overheated ESC. I have just ordered a watt meter to test the system before installing it though. Foresight over hindsight.

(especially as I intend to mount my ESC in a region of the fuse not designed for it, in light of issues arising from overlong cabling)
Reasonable cooling is NEVER a bad idea with heat generating components. No system is 100% efficient, and the inefficient points generate heat... Why on earth anyone would design a system specifically to trap heat and thus create a heat magnifying and component punishing environment is beyond me. Anyone who does this in typical consumer electronics quickly finds out the true meaning of "tech support", lol.

Cool all you like, your ESC and your motor will both love you for it. Just don't needlessly create drag to get it done. :-)

Rick NR417
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 09:16 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
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Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Cool all you like, your ESC and your motor will both love you for it. Just don't needlessly create drag to get it done. :-)

Rick NR417
I added the 'rear flush pipe' to help move air through the fuse (and over the ESC in it's new position) because, in it's stock state, the new ESC area would just be an eddy area for hot air.


The firewall cooling that I originally added is redundant if an ESC isn't fitted in that area, but I think it will reduce drag a tad anyway.

(I'll add a diagram of what I think I mean later )
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 09:22 AM
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I'd port my nose to cool the guts in the canopy bay but I run with a barometer that is way sensitive to air currents, so that's probably not happening. Also, I can actually see the temperature of the battery pack (I keep the barometer tucked against it) which is really slick and I only just noticed it on my last flight, gradually warming up a few degrees during the last portion of flight time.

Someday when this bird retires, I'm going to build a new one with all that I've learned from the engineering types here on the thread and the last one. I'm good with electronics for the most part, but structural engineering isn't my best skill. I do just well enough to get by. I think the quadcopter build was a lucky fluke, lol. ;-)

Looking forward to that diagram!

Rick NR417
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 09:37 AM
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flow chart, but not..

Red is 'stock flow' of air as I see it.

Green is 'new' flow.

I work on the basis that the more air that can exit a cylinder, the more air is allowed to flow in at the front, reducing overall resistance to forward movement. That's also why I've smoothed/enlarged the air intake ports too, as a balance.

Easier to describe as trying to drive a car with a parachute attached..

I might be OTT, but people polish their planes to reduce drag, etc

(Edit: I forgot to add the green arrow for air escaping from the side port )

Also forgot to add why I do this: I used to tweak motorbikes as a kid, and porting the carbs for improved airflow was always the fun part
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 09:53 AM
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 10:16 AM
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53859 Niederkassel, Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
...
I work on the basis that the more air that can exit a cylinder, the more air is allowed to flow in at the front, reducing overall resistance to forward movement. That's also why I've smoothed/enlarged the air intake ports too, as a balance.
...
Actually, the air exit should be bigger than the air intake, in order to improve airflow.

While guiding air through the fuselage will help cooling the components, the overall drag of the model will increase.

Jürgen
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jurgen Heilig View Post
While guiding air through the fuselage will help cooling the components, the overall drag of the model will increase.

Jürgen
I understand, but will a greater exit then reduce that overall drag?
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 12:40 PM
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United States, NJ, Stanhope
Joined Dec 2004
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Scott & Bob, thanks again for the feedback, Bob I think you are in the right direction going to lower KV motors and a larger prop for the type of flying your doing. I'm not ready to jump into FPV, but want to hoist the gopro and have some fun with a good slow flying bird which maybe has a bit of extra thrust when needed, speed I am not as concerned with.

I'm thinking of giving the 1400KV 2826 Turnigy a try with SOTOG's aluminum motor mount that will let me try an 8 inch prop, maybe an 8X4.

Time to place some orders tonight...
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