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Old Mar 31, 2012, 09:44 AM
Wallop!
Martin7182's Avatar
Bussum, Netherlands
Joined Oct 2009
658 Posts
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Originally Posted by Jurgen Heilig View Post
Hi Martin,

these motors don't have the torque to spin a decent sized prop. They were meant for ducted fans or geared applications.

Offered now at $8.-, you may want to get some more for "crazy projects".

http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=6076

Jürgen
Thanks Jürgen,

I've ordered them there indeed for $8 each. "We have just discovered a cache of the X22 series motors during an inventory here at Air Craft". That was months ago, must be a big cache or unpopular motor . Their size and shaft are like the permax 400, so I'll try the original Graupner prop and check whether they don't run too hot. Otherwise it's time for the EZJet project .

Martin
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 10:55 AM
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Des Moines IA
Joined Dec 2005
4,754 Posts
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Originally Posted by RC Novice View Post
its permanently off , good idea , let know how it went
Also if your using 2.4 gear you don't need the tube that is on the belly.
You could replace that with a carbon fiber tube.
Just a thought.
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Des Moines IA
Joined Dec 2005
4,754 Posts
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Originally Posted by scottdearinger View Post
actually I will take some more eggs- they were good-

Looking forward to our RC truck jumping over a Slowstick in flight tomorrow- I hope they collide-

On topic- we are filming it from an easystar..


Gunna be a fun video to make.....
Ya its going to be fun!!!

I will have the Easy Star flying over the attempt for aerial vid from above.
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:01 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
With regard to "Bent Conk Syndrome" in EZs (collapsed fuse walls below cockpit), as suffered by a few posters, I've found the following works amazingly well whilst rebuilding my son's HS that had got to the 'final straw' point after a few nosedives and rushed repairs:

Usual soak in off-the-boil water to re-fluff the beads. This did okay, but it still left lots of creases and warped fuse walls that were anything but rigid.

I went out shopping, mainly to top up my CF tube supplies from the LHS (his narrower tubes are good value) - I popped into The Range (discount shop) to get some 5min epoxy and found these 'lolly sticks' for a quid - Bargain!

I clamped a couple against the fuse walls as shown (layer of sticks on top helping the clamps), and both sides are now dead straight, and very strong. I know it's been suggested before, but I wasn't prepared for how good the fix really is

I plan on finishing off the outer surface with a brushing of wood glue mixed with a bit of talc (spackle/polyfilla effect), and will add 2 more sticks to the inner fuse floor as extra strength/battery tray (extra weight maybe, but I took out the nose weight during all of this)

Just tidying up his stock wiring now while it all sets - 12" of cabling from battery to esc
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:15 PM
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Eagle202's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
1,573 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
With regard to "Bent Conk Syndrome" in EZs (collapsed fuse walls below cockpit), as suffered by a few posters, I've found the following works amazingly well whilst rebuilding my son's HS that had got to the 'final straw' point after a few nosedives and rushed repairs:

Usual soak in off-the-boil water to re-fluff the beads. This did okay, but it still left lots of creases and warped fuse walls that were anything but rigid.

I went out shopping, mainly to top up my CF tube supplies from the LHS (his narrower tubes are good value) - I popped into The Range (discount shop) to get some 5min epoxy and found these 'lolly sticks' for a quid - Bargain!

I clamped a couple against the fuse walls as shown (layer of sticks on top helping the clamps), and both sides are now dead straight, and very strong. I know it's been suggested before, but I wasn't prepared for how good the fix really is

I plan on finishing off the outer surface with a brushing of wood glue mixed with a bit of talc (spackle/polyfilla effect), and will add 2 more sticks to the inner fuse floor as extra strength/battery tray (extra weight maybe, but I took out the nose weight during all of this)

Just tidying up his stock wiring now while it all sets - 12" of cabling from battery to esc
Using those flat sticks to strengthen the cockpit area is an interesting idea. About how thick are they?

I like your work space but man all that food within reach would be hard not to eat.
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:18 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
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Originally Posted by Eagle202 View Post
Using those flat sticks to strengthen the cockpit area is an interesting idea. About how thick are they?

I like your work space but man all that food within reach would be hard not to eat.
They're about 1.5mm.. roughly the same as proper lollipop sticks, but a bit longer and twice the width. I doubled them up for the weakest section nearest the cockpit opening (more epoxy).

I've been allowed to use the table on the promise that the kitchen becomes sparkling clean afterwards and I do all the cooking tonight
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:32 PM
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United States, CA, Oceanside
Joined Aug 2010
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Called tongue depressors on this side of the pond. Also known as AHHHH sticks.
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 01:13 PM
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 02:16 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by EZCanuck View Post
they don't have CF rods or tube though
I found very cheap rods at a kite store.. half the price of LHS, but possibly half the quality too
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 02:44 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
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Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
Joined Nov 2008
3,283 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by EZCanuck View Post
They are cheap, cheap cheap... check the craft aisle at Dollar Store or Dollar Tree in U.S. and Canada.
Or be like me and be married to a nurse. I got two boxes for nowt*....

Thanks for the hint Ash.... I'll bang some in in a few days!




*Yorkshire's favourite price
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 03:03 PM
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 03:08 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by EZCanuck View Post
Thanks for that tip... I fly stunt kites when it is too windy for the Radian or Easy Star and I can't believe I didn't think of that. I was going to check out some local hunting outfitters ( like Cabela in N.A. ) who have CF arrows to compare to the LHS. In this case the LHS may be the cheapest if the others don't have the sizes I want as shipping charges for one or two from a specialty CF supply would put the unit cost out of sight.

BTW, here is a retrofit of an EZ to reinforce the nose using a piece to hard foam. I think it is called Depron - no markings on it, quite firm, gloss surface, hot glues great. Afterward I just use a thin piece of soft packing foam found in lots of stuff I order from HK to hold the battery in place, slide fore and aft to adjust C'oG.

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=DBDE7...5DDCB92%211004
Great idea! I have a bag full of it I think - taken from an HP server packing case (I think the packing was better value than the server )

I was curious to see if I could hotwire a pod out of it for my flying wing - never thought of using it as extra internal support for the other planes

I've also got a few bags of EPP, gathered in the same way - saves a fortune on buying it in 'neat' sheets

PS: what's that white tape I can see? Looks very useful
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 09:18 AM
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Sacramento
Joined Jan 2008
64 Posts
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Originally Posted by pdiddyg40 View Post
That is AWESOME! Great build and paint job! You've surpassed any construction that I've ever done with an EasyStar. I hope that you get many uneventful flights with that plane, it'd be such a shame to mess up that paint.

Thx pdiddyg40. That's my hope, too, but stuff happens, right? There's bound to be some landings that are rougher than others...

Quote:
Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
That was a very cool build log! What paint where you using there?!
Ashton Flyer, it's water based acrylic paint I bougth from a local craft store for $1 a bottle. I followed the general procedure outlined in some other threads on rcgroups (wish I could remember the user to give him credit). After sanding the mold marks off I sprayed the plane with a coat of water based polyurethane (WBPU). Then I sprayed the paint, thinned with windex (equal parts windex and paint). After a few coats of paint I applied three coates of the WBPU to protect the water based paint.

I had a gws e-starter that I painted with the water based craft paints and did not apply the WBPU. The paint did not hold up very well, and if any water got on the plane, the paint would run.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 12:58 PM
Hi, I'm an RC Plane addict
Pocitelli's Avatar
United States, CA, Carlsbad
Joined Jan 2012
25 Posts
Need help....

I'm putting together my second EasyStar and last night when checking all my wiring/connections, I plugged in the esc to the battery and got this weird clicking sound. Power was going to the receiver (new Spectrum), but it wasn't blinking like it should for me to bind my transmitter to.

I couldn't tell where the clicking was coming from, it was either the ESC or the batter to esc connection. I had just finished soldering a new ec3 connector to the esc to plug into the batter, double checked my polarity which was correct, etc.

After 3 or 4 times of unplugging and replugging in the battery, the connection at the ec3 smoked and my battery got really hot. I'm suspecting the polarity on the esc might actually be wrong. Black wire is usually negative and red is positive and I had it all right, but now I'm wondering if the Thunder 18 Castle Creations esc's wiring was reversed.

Any ideas - my lipo is probably toast and I suspect the esc too.... What's weird is the light on the receiver was going on, so it was definitely getting power through the system.

Stumped....
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 01:16 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
Red lead as shown here, or other way up? Silly question maybe, but was it a 3s LiPo?

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