Originally Posted by NightRunner417
Welcome to the EasyStar thread! You're making a very good choice in planes with the EZ - you'll love her and she will love you back. :-)
I like about 300 watts for my AngryStar FPV attack drone. I'm currently using an Exceed RC Rocket Series 2220-1500KV motor spinning an APC 8x4E. It pulls about 27 amps absolute peak on takeoff (I take off from asphalt or gravel, belly skid style) and quickly falls off to about 24 amps peak WOT. It gives me more than enough power, but I fly with a GoPro on the nose so it's nice that it's there. You should be aware that using this big a prop requires modifying the motor mount (mine is about an inch taller than stock) or the prop would hit the tail boom. I *think* you can get away with a 7" prop on the stock if you groove the boom a bit, and a 7x5E goes REALLY nicely with this motor.... or you could do the 1800KV version to push it harder for say a 7x4E, both of which I also have. I've been through a lot of motors and props looking for just the right one, which I think I have now with that 8x4 and 1500kv. :-)
Before I got into bigger props and lower rpm motors, I was using 2200kv - 2500kv motors and 6" props. My favorite of those days was the Turnigy 2350kv red and black outrunner and 6x4 EMP prop (Hobbyking TGS Sport). That's an OUTRUNNER motor, which means the motor housing spins as well, which also requires changes to the mount. My favorite inrunner (no spinning housing) was a purple colored 2200kv that I believe I got from Heads Up RC. I ran that with the 6x4 EMP props and really liked it, I only moved away from it and into outrunners because I was ever chasing the ultimate in efficiency, low noise, and thrust.
Again, I need to say this - I LOVE the big 8x4 prop and 1500kv motor. It moves, it climbs, and it's quiet and efficient. I can blast along at over 40mph and rip the pack down to nothing in 12 minutes or less, or float along at just 4 - 5 amps and still climb gently, depending on conditions. :-)
Almost forgot to answer about ESC and LiPo. The Turnigy cheapie blue LiPo packs are great, maybe not the toughest ever but cheap as homemade sin so there's the tradeoff. I use a 3S 3000mAH Turnigy blue in my EZ, it *just* fits and it provides about the most capacity you're ever going to fit in there reasonably. You can also try to cram two of the 3S 2200mAH packs in there in parallel but that's a little more insane than even I will do. It makes the nose very heavy and then you have to bias with moving every silly thing backward and adding tail weight. As for ESC's, I really really like the Turnigy Plush/HobbyWing Pentium ESC's, they're simply great. I go with a 60A, actually it's an EMAX but I am pretty sure it's the same underlying device as the Turnigy Plush/HobbyWing Pentium 60A. It's a throwback to the days where I was experimenting with a LOT more power (upward of 500 watts) and needed the high current handling. Now that I'm off that kick (it's really unnecessary), I could go back to my HobbyWing Pentium 40A but I figure why bother... it's not THAT much of a weight difference and this bugger is tough as nails. Maybe I will at some point, who knows. Anyway, yep, Turnigy blue LiPo and Turnigy Plush/HobbyWing Pentium ESC and you can't go wrong. Just make sure your ESC has a current rating that exceeds the pull of your motor and prop combo by say ten amps, so you have a degree of overhead. Your ESC will thank you and so will your plane and your wallet, haha.
For understanding what motor, prop, and ESC are really all about, think of it like this. KV rating on a motor is basically RPM per volt. Push 1 volt at a 2200kv motor and it will spin at 2200 RPM, NO LOAD. Add a prop, and it changes everything, it loads the motor down. PROPELLER is what makes wattage happen. It turns the input power of the motor into useful thrust, and it can be too little to push the plane or so much that it burns the motor out right away depending on what prop you pick. Knowing what combo is right IS very complicated, but you can start with what you know from people here, which is that a 2200kv inrunner like my old purple or the Turnigy copper colored 28mm ones plus a 6x3 or 6x4 prop is VERY popular as an EZ* upgrade. I used to really like the 6x3 EMP prop and 2200kv motor back in the day, after I got over burning up 2700kv motors with that same prop or the 6x4 version (over 400 watts!).
You can do as I did and get a current meter or even better, an OSD (I feel they are a MUST HAVE for FPV) and just play with motors and props as part of your hobby experience, and/or you can use a simulator like Drive Calculator to help you understand how motor and prop work together in a practical sense. I use both methods of course, and thus I know not to necessarily take Drive Calculator's word at just everything. I get a lot of enjoyment from experimentation, so for me, playing with the parts is a huge part of why I do it at all. I've learned an awful lot from it. :-)
The speed controller, or ESC, is only there to channel the battery power to the motor and supply power to the other electronics of the plane, that's all it does in basic terms. Get a 40 amp Plush or Pentium ESC and you'll probably never get another, because if you run 3S (three cell lipo), that's 11.1 volts nominal, and a 2200kv motor and 6x4 prop will pull about 26-27 amps max... that puts you well under the max rating of the ESC and it will be happy for a very long time.
PS: Video coming soon from the GoPro FPV maiden last tuesday. The file is really big (2GB) so the upload is taking a while. It's a good one, haha. Fun times that day.