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Old Dec 31, 2011, 01:26 AM
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I like the scoop on top of the cowl, is there another on the bottom ? Good job on the cowl !
Since gear are two piece, you think any reinforcement is needed because of that ? I could cut you an aluminum plate to bolt over the gears if you think it's needed.

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Old Dec 31, 2011, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptAhab View Post
I like the scoop on top of the cowl, is there another on the bottom ? Good job on the cowl !
Since gear are two piece, you think any reinforcement is needed because of that ? I could cut you an aluminum plate to bolt over the gears if you think it's needed.

No scoop on the bottom Cap'n.

I would think that would be a good idea to add an aluminum strip for added security to the gear since they are only held on by the three screws on each side with T-nuts fastened to the ply floor.
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Old Dec 31, 2011, 02:32 AM
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Mike the gear and we'll get the closest size to it, and give me the dimensions and I'll cut it tomorrow while I'm at work. If you want a backing plate for the tailwheel assembly we can do that too.
I was watching SG-1 season 7 just now, remember the F-302 they had ? I gotta get me one of those ! Back to SG-1... latters
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Old Dec 31, 2011, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptAhab View Post
Mike the gear and we'll get the closest size to it, and give me the dimensions and I'll cut it tomorrow while I'm at work. If you want a backing plate for the tailwheel assembly we can do that too.
I was watching SG-1 season 7 just now, remember the F-302 they had ? I gotta get me one of those ! Back to SG-1... latters
Thanks Capt.


Worked on the servo covers and re-drilled the holes for the screws a bit inboard. I didn't like how close the original holes were to the corners of the plates and from prior experience with some ARFS, the holes this close to the corners usually break out causing one to make new covers.
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Old Dec 31, 2011, 05:36 AM
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Good ole Smithsburg, MD
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Perry,

Do you think a 24" prop would clear?
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Old Dec 31, 2011, 07:39 AM
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Puyallup, WA
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Geez! At the rate you are going, we should see a maiden real soon. Tougher waiting for all the parts to get is the hardest thing going at this point. Looking real good!!
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Old Dec 31, 2011, 01:11 PM
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Perry,

Do you think a 24" prop would clear?
Steve,

Funny you should ask. Just yesterday right after the mug shot of me and the plane, my buddy and I mocked up a 20x10 APC that I have and is the largest I have at this time and there was about 2" more of clearance from tip to ground when the plane was held in a level position.

So I'd probably say negative on the 24".
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Old Dec 31, 2011, 01:15 PM
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Geez! At the rate you are going, we should see a maiden real soon. Tougher waiting for all the parts to get is the hardest thing going at this point. Looking real good!!

Tink,

You are absolutely right on that. Hoping the maiden will be in two weeks. Most of the parts were ordered a week or two prior to the model arriving so parts are trickling in now.

The servos should be in today. If that happens, then all servos will be installed this weekend and all control linkages leaving only the mounting of the motor and placement of other electronics.

You need to drop by the house and check her out!
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Old Dec 31, 2011, 09:37 PM
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United States, WA, Snohomish
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Hi there,
Looks like a nice project. I'll be interested to see how it goes.
Will battery access be through the side window, or a bottom hatch?

Steve
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 02:48 PM
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Hi there,
Looks like a nice project. I'll be interested to see how it goes.
Will battery access be through the side window, or a bottom hatch?

Steve
Steve,

There is a top hatch with a latch and that will be the entry and exit for the battery. I might also opt to leave one of the side windows out as well.
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 03:02 PM
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HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!

The buildup continues on this new day.

Servo installaton completed but waiting for longer control arms for the flaps and aileron installation. Going to use the Dubro long servo arms.

Servos for the rudder and tailwheel installed. One thing to note on the elevator control is that the included wooden control rod was replaced for a stiffer carbon rod. The wooden one was just a bit too flimsy.

Also note that the center horizontal stabilizer bolt that holds down the stab is too long causing intereference when the elevator is in the full down position since the bolt is directly inline with the control horn. You will have to trim the bolt or replace with a shorter one.

A bit of wood was sanded for clearance on the rear fuselage former which is the exit for the elevator clevis. Reason was because the clevis nut was hitting the edge of the former and would not enable the elevator to move down (see pic).
Don't forget to use Locktite on the clevis screws. I use the blue type that comes in my heli kits. It's removable.
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 11:48 PM
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Happy New Year !

Perry the kit didnt supply all the control rods ?
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 11:55 PM
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El Paso, Illinois
Joined Apr 2006
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Hey Perry! Just noticed your thread and am signing up.

Nice model. It does fit right in with your love of the obscure. Planning on towing something with it?
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptAhab View Post
Happy New Year !

Perry the kit didnt supply all the control rods ?
Only one control rod Capt.

The rudder and tailwheel are pull pull.
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 12:15 AM
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And speaking of tail wheel, I've decided to go with the unit in the kit. I couldn't find one online that I liked.

Here's where some issues arose......

First of all, the axle for the tailwheel was missing so I used a 4mm hex bolt I had in my nut and bolt bin.

Next, the lock collar suggested in the instructions to slip over the tailwheel shaft was not the right inside diameter. It called out a 3mm collar but the tail wheel shaft is 4mm.

The tailwheel shaft lower bearing was missing so I made two out of brass bushings I robbed out of old printers and fax machines and drilled them out to 4mm i.d. one for the bottom and top (see pic).

Now we are ready to install the tail wheel........or are we?

Instructions call out 3mm x 12mm wood screws included in the kit to fasten down the whole tailwheel assembly. Um....no.
I went ahead and drilled out the holes for the tailwheel assembly on the bottom of the fuselage to 1/8 diameter then tapped them to 4mm for three new 4mm screws. Since there are no T-nuts inside to firmly hold the screws in place, I soaked the holes with CA, re tapped them, soaked them one more time with CA, and re tapped them again. Now I have strong threads to support the tailwheel assembly.

So far this has been the most difficult part of the assembly because of the missing parts, and area of rework.

Do yourself a favor if you're an avid modeller like myself. Get yourself the Dubro metric tap and drill set and the Grizzly 50 piece metric drill set.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9753

It will save you a lot of frustration when building ARF's. You'll really be glad you did!!
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Last edited by Rudderman98; Jan 03, 2012 at 01:26 AM.
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