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Old Feb 11, 2013, 07:06 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSonders View Post
Have you got a linky for those solid shafts?

Switching blades around a bit trying various ones has lead to one of mine fraying a bit and I fear that next time I remove a prop it's going to fall to pieces so would be really interested in a stronger replacement.
These fit also.
Buy 4 and pay 0.98 each shipped
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Wl...7-p-47418.html

-mike-
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 01:54 PM
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Guys with cameras on their MQX's, can you give me some mounting ideas? I keep getting waves in the video from vibrations. My latest mounting attempt was sticking the camera to a gyro mounting pad directly on top of the PCB. It cut down on the waviness to the point that the video is at least watchable, but there's still some vibration. How is everyone else mounting their cameras?
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 02:55 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDstylez View Post
Guys with cameras on their MQX's, can you give me some mounting ideas? I keep getting waves in the video from vibrations. My latest mounting attempt was sticking the camera to a gyro mounting pad directly on top of the PCB. It cut down on the waviness to the point that the video is at least watchable, but there's still some vibration. How is everyone else mounting their cameras?
First, you need to dynamically balance the rotors. Then you can mount the cam pretty much wherever you wish, as long as you don't change the CG too much. Mine's mounted underneath with a patch of Velcro an a strip of masking tape for backup. Works great & there is zero jello-effect in the video.

Joel
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 02:55 PM
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Puffy lipos from just sitting?

I haven't flown my mQX since around Christmas time, but I always charge the 2 lipos I have for it after they are used. I use a 7 minute timer setting when I am flying to know when to change batteries.

Today I noticed the spare charged lipo not in the mQX looks just a little 'puffy'. It sits next to all my other lipos for my other helis, and all of them are fine. I pulled the other charged lipo out of the mQX for comparison, and it doesn't look as puffy as this second one does. It's not a lot, but just looks "not flat" on the sides if you know what I mean.

I've had lipos do this before in between uses, but they were multiple cell and puffed a lot more. It seems funny this one would puff just sitting there doing nothing. I don't like to take chances with these things, so I suppose I should discharge and recycle it as I usually do with worn out lipos. But I was wondering if anyone else has had one of their stock batteries do this while not being used?
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
First, you need to dynamically balance the rotors. Then you can mount the cam pretty much wherever you wish, as long as you don't change the CG too much. Mine's mounted underneath with a patch of Velcro an a strip of masking tape for backup. Works great & there is zero jello-effect in the video.

Joel
I'm guessing a dynamic balance is going to mean lots of trial and error? Do people sand them down or use tape?
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 03:45 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoandar View Post
I haven't flown my mQX since around Christmas time, but I always charge the 2 lipos I have for it after they are used. I use a 7 minute timer setting when I am flying to know when to change batteries.

Today I noticed the spare charged lipo not in the mQX looks just a little 'puffy'. It sits next to all my other lipos for my other helis, and all of them are fine. I pulled the other charged lipo out of the mQX for comparison, and it doesn't look as puffy as this second one does. It's not a lot, but just looks "not flat" on the sides if you know what I mean.

I've had lipos do this before in between uses, but they were multiple cell and puffed a lot more. It seems funny this one would puff just sitting there doing nothing. I don't like to take chances with these things, so I suppose I should discharge and recycle it as I usually do with worn out lipos. But I was wondering if anyone else has had one of their stock batteries do this while not being used?
It most likely puffed because it was nearing end-of-life and/or because you left it fully-charged for too long. How many cycles were on it? The stock batts are usually only good for 30 cycles or so before they start to die. Has that particular batt ever been discharged deeper than 80%? That will dramatically shorten lifespan. Also, LiPos are not supposed to be stored long-term in a fully-charged state, nor are they supposed to be stored in a discharged state. They're supposed to be stored at a rest voltage of 3.8-3.9V/cell. If you want to maximize the life of your LiPos, use the 'storage-charge' function on your hobby-grade charger when you're not going to use them for more than a couple days or so. If you don't own a hobby-grade charger, do yourself & your LiPos a huge favor and get one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDstylez View Post
I'm guessing a dynamic balance is going to mean lots of trial and error? Do people sand them down or use tape?
Nah, it's easy. Only takes a few minutes, once you get the hang of it. Many of us use clear tape. If the bearings are nice & free on yours, simply pull the spur gears down just until they disengage from the motors. If your rotors spin freely enough, you can simply tip the bird on its side & statically balance the rotor assemblies. If your rotors have too much drag for that (mine did), dynamically balance each of them by unplugging the other three motors. Spool-up & feel for vibration. If there is some, put a small strip of tape on one blade about half-way out on the blade & spool-up again. If it got worse, move the tape to the other blade & spool-up again. If it's better, add more tape. If that makes it worse, remove some. Rinse & repeat. It really doesn't take very long. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to get pretty close in just 3-4 iterations. Stabilization systems don't like vibration, so the bird will also fly better.

Joel
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 05:46 PM
Moving Parts
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United States, MS, Columbus
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoandar View Post
I haven't flown my mQX since around Christmas time, but I always charge the 2 lipos I have for it after they are used. I use a 7 minute timer setting when I am flying to know when to change batteries.

But I was wondering if anyone else has had one of their stock batteries do this while not being used?
Also, these small batteries will charge and read good voltage (4.2 V) but will not hold up under a load.

Ideally, you would store them at about 3.8 V. If you want to store them at 4.2 V, put them in the refrigerator.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 06:55 PM
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Never put your LiPos in the fridge or store them in the cold. Putting them in the fridge fully-charged will kill them, due to cold-wx overcharge damage. Full charge on a LiPo at 35 F is only around 3.8V. LiPos are never supposed to be stored below 50 F, even at storage voltage.

Joel
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 10:51 PM
Moving Parts
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Lithium Polymer Battery LiPo Storage

Lithium Polymer Battery Storage Tips

"Temperature:
Lipo batteries function via a chemical reaction that occurs inside their sealed foil envelopes. Providing power is a chemical reaction, while the aging/degrading process is another chemical reaction. If you remember back to high school chemistry, a chemical reaction doubles its speed for every ten degrees increase of ambient temperature. This is why lipos dont perform as well in cold weather. The cold slows down the chemical reaction process. But this fact can work in our favor when it comes to lipo storage. Reducing the storage temperature slows the chemical reaction of the aging/degrading process. There is a limit as to how cold is OK. Lipos dont want to be frozen solid, but keeping them cool during storage is most certainly in our favor. It turns out the typically household refrigerator (37 to 40 degrees) is the perfect storage place."

Source:
http://ozarkmountainbarnstormers.com...age%20Tips.pdf
-----------------------------------------------------------


Safety & Usage Procedure for Lithium Polymer Batteries

Fall 2009
Texas A&M University

"3.2 Storage

LiPo Batteries shall be stored in accordance with the following requirements:

1. Batteries should be stored at room temperature between 40 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit."

Source:
http://oes.tamu.edu/web/guidelines/b...Procedures.pdf
-----------------------------------------------------------------------


Lithium Polymer Battery LiPo Storage

"Just as heat is detrimental to the pack, allowing them to freeze will also damage them to the point where they are unusable. A refrigerator is a good place to store your packs because it can be set to stay between 40 and 45 degrees; just be sure to use a different refrigerator where you don't store food. Before you use or charge the batteries, let the packs come to room temperature."

Source:
http://www.bigrcmodels.com/RC-Helico...ry-Storage.asp
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 04:33 AM
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I just want to add that i've had a good 80 cycles on one of my stock Eflite batteries...I've had this since before I got the MQX (came with a blade 120SR) and initially I didn't have a hobby grade charger and didn't really know the deal with storage of lipos so was generally charging them fully on the Eflite charger and leaving them like that for days at a time.

I also wasn't careful about over discharging them and this battery has been discharged to LVC on the 120 and the MQX at least ten times.

I store my batteries in my garage, which is generally fairly cold due to where I live and it being the only room on that level in my property.

So I would suggest that storing them in a cool temperature has at the very least negated some of the abuse that my earlier batteries have had.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSonders View Post
I just want to add that i've had a good 80 cycles on one of my stock Eflite batteries...I've had this since before I got the MQX (came with a blade 120SR) and initially I didn't have a hobby grade charger and didn't really know the deal with storage of lipos so was generally charging them fully on the Eflite charger and leaving them like that for days at a time.

I also wasn't careful about over discharging them and this battery has been discharged to LVC on the 120 and the MQX at least ten times.

I store my batteries in my garage, which is generally fairly cold due to where I live and it being the only room on that level in my property.

So I would suggest that storing them in a cool temperature has at the very least negated some of the abuse that my earlier batteries have had.
Me too!

I have a 5 Ah, six cell lipo that doesn't fly very much so I'm doing everything I can to make it last as long as possible. I read in one of the sources above that a lipo at storage voltage will have a shelf life of two years but be basically useless by that time if not used. For what we pay for some of these batteries, a lifetime warranty would be great!
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 09:48 AM
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Never store a fully-charged pack below 50 F. Doing so will damage it. Only packs that are at storage-charge can be stored below 50 F without damage.

From Thunder Power: http://thunderpowerrc.com/documents/Winter.pdf

From Hyperion:

LIPO CARE

Break-In Procedure - Hyperion G3 LiPo are robust and do not need a complicated break-in procedure. We recommend that the first 5 uses are limited to 3C charge rates, and that pilots use throttle management to avoid long periods of max-rate discharge for those first 5 flights. Note also the other care suggestions below. Those apply pretty generally to any LiPo pack, not just Hyperion G3...

Discharge - Analysis of damaged packs returned to us by users shows that nearly 70% have suffered from "capacity over-discharge" conditions. This simply means that the pack has been run too long, allowing resting voltage to fall too low. Such damage is visible upon cell inspection at the factory. Every type of battery has a minimum recommended discharge level. For example, even deep-cycle lead-acid batteries should not be regularly discharged down to less than 30%~40% of capacity. In the case of lithium polymer, it is best practice to always leave 20% of rated capacity in the pack at the end of a flight, with 10% as an absolute minimum.

To avoid capacity over-discharge, we recommend the setting of an appropriate cut-off voltage (LVC) AND the use of a transmitter flight timer. For LVC, the appropriate voltage cut-off depends in large on how high the max and average discharge rates are. For very high discharge applications, like F5B competition, something around 3.2V (or even lower) may be desirable. For standard aerobatic flight, start at 3.4V to 3.5V/cell, and set your timer to 4 minutes initially. Then note the capacity charged back IN to the pack on next charge. If the pack is 1000mAh, for example, there should be no more than 800mAh charged back in, meaning that 200mAh remained at the end of the flight (20% of capacity). If the charged IN capacity is less than 800mAh, set the timer a little longer, and check again the next flight. Of course, having the Hyperion Emeter II Remote Data Logger (RDU) makes this even easier, as you can more accurately log the exact mAh Out used each flight and make quick adjustments...

Charge - All Hyperion G3 packs can be charged at 6C rates, with no reduction in cycle life or performance. However, given the negligible difference in charge time for 6C rate vs. 5C, we believe 5C to be the ideal max charge rate for any high-performance Lipo pack. We strongly recommend the use of quality-brand charger, such as the Hyperion EOS lineup, as some generic brand chargers have been shown to use poor components, and may therefore not control charge voltage properly. Hyperion holds that 4.20V/cell (+/- 0.05V) is the proper terminal voltage for Hyperion G3 packs (and all other Lipo). Use of terminal voltages higher than this (for racing, etc) is not covered under warranty, and may be dangerous. (note: some G3 packaging may still state 5C max on front or rear. However, all G3 are rated for 6C max no-loss.)

PLEASE be sure that charging is always done such that in case of fire, no damage nor injury can occur. Keep LiPo well separated (minimum 2M or 7') from flammables, and always use a brick enclosure or "LiPo sack" to insure that any possible fire can be contained. We strongly discourage charging within or near living spaces, or inside automobiles. LiPo charging should be monitored closely at all times.

Temperature - For best performance and cycle life, your Hyperion G3 battery packs should have a resting temperature no lower than 10 C (50 F) at the beginning of a Flight, or beginning of Charging. Keep the batteries inside your vehicle or a warmer of some kind on very cold days, to insure best performance and life (this is true for any LiPo, not just G3). If you have any concerns about the temperature on cold days and you have Hyperion NET or DUO charger, you can use the TCS function set to 90% to help insure that the batteries do not suffer over-voltage condition due to the temperature.

Physical - Never cause indentations to the covering of the pack, or cells underneath. Do not use a ball-point pen to write on the pack, for example. Use a felt-tip pen with light pressure instead. When installing packs in the model, insure that they have the best protection possible from impact and pressure damage. Use foam casing if possible. Do not over-tighten hold down straps. Straps should be cloth (velcro) as opposed to hard plastic, such as zip ties. External damage to any Lipo pack can cause salts formations which reduce performance, and in more severe cases can cause fires during charging. Impact Damaged packs should be fully discharged, and disposed of immediately. See below for Hyperion Warranty, and Crash Replacement Program details.

Storage - Lipo should never be stored fully charged, or with less than 50% of capacity remaining. We strongly recommend Hyperion EOS chargers, as they have automatic STORE functions to insure that the packs are in the range of about 60%~70% capacity (3.78V~3.92V resting voltage per cell). After returning home for the day, simply use STORE MODE to achieve this automatically. Batteries are best stored in a cool, dry environment (2~20 C or 37~68 F).
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 10:41 AM
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Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Never put your LiPos in the fridge or store them in the cold.

From Hyperion:

LIPO CARE Batteries are best stored in a cool, dry environment (2~20 C or 37~68 F).
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 12:32 PM
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Check this out.....

The police getting into Quads...............



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Old Feb 12, 2013, 01:09 PM
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The police getting into Quads...............



I bet their insurance takes a bump when they lose one.

John in Merrill
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