HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jan 15, 2013, 04:29 PM
Tassie Electric, Heli, Glider
ChrisJ800's Avatar
Hobart, Australia
Joined Oct 2002
2,515 Posts
Im flying my MQX with my new Turnigy 9XR and Orangerx RF module to replace my aging DX6i. Works fine and the open source software will handle complex helis too with up to 17 point curves!
ChrisJ800 is offline Find More Posts by ChrisJ800
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jan 15, 2013, 06:48 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,134 Posts
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Jake8131 is offline Find More Posts by Jake8131
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 15, 2013, 06:49 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,134 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisJ800 View Post
Im flying my MQX with my new Turnigy 9XR and Orangerx RF module to replace my aging DX6i. Works fine and the open source software will handle complex helis too with up to 17 point curves!
Check this out..have one on order...


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Mode_2_.html
Jake8131 is offline Find More Posts by Jake8131
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 15, 2013, 07:53 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
4,643 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisJ800 View Post
Im flying my MQX with my new Turnigy 9XR and Orangerx RF module to replace my aging DX6i. Works fine and the open source software will handle complex helis too with up to 17 point curves!
That's great! I'm flying mine with an original Turnigy 9x that had a DSM2 radio circuit from a MLP4DSM transmitter transplanted into it! For folks just getting into the hobby, your method is a LOT more user friendly. So glad to hear that those new components are working out so nicely.
RoboHeli is offline Find More Posts by RoboHeli
RCG Plus Member
Old Jan 15, 2013, 08:45 PM
Noob
ManiZ's Avatar
United States, CO, Castle Rock
Joined Oct 2012
29 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry__ View Post
Please stop clogging up the thread with unfounded complaints.
Thanks Gerry. I am genuinely sorry for my two sins; 1) Misreading the owner's manual, 2) Clogging up a thread and upsetting you greatly as a result.

I repent. Please forgive me. I hope God does too.
ManiZ is offline Find More Posts by ManiZ
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 15, 2013, 08:53 PM
Registered User
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Oct 2012
628 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake8131 View Post
Check this out..have one on order...


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Mode_2_.html
Very interesting Jake. Very interested to see your thoughts on this when you get it.
jdr00ejr is offline Find More Posts by jdr00ejr
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 15, 2013, 09:59 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2011
229 Posts
Okay, forgive my noobness...

I'm aware that draining batteries is bad and kills them.

With a clear canopy on my mQX, I can clearly see the aft blue light flashing when a battery is finished. I can even look at my watch, go explore, and then come in close toward the end to practice precision maneuvers until I see the first flash, and land.

Simple question: Is that too late? I'm perfectly satsified dropping straight to ground and swapping batts the moment I see it flashing.

Is that too late?

To be fair, I badly abused the batteries I'm using now in a 120SR (for sale) and a Champ with extra-huge wings and a camera. They're toast. So I'm really asking:

What will happen if I charge the brand new Nano 600's I just ordered at 0.3A ALWAYS, use them only in the mQX and religiously stop when the blue battery light starts flashing?

I love uncomplicated hobbies. Foolishness? Or can I keep it simple watching the blue light and get a decent year out of my new cells?
teflon97239 is offline Find More Posts by teflon97239
Last edited by teflon97239; Jan 15, 2013 at 10:13 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 15, 2013, 10:27 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,533 Posts
Teflon,

Charging the Nano 600s at 300 mA won't do anything but make it take forever to charge them. Most 35c Nanos are designed for 5c charging. If it says 5c charge on the batteries, you can charge them at 3A without hurting them.

Over-discharge is the #1 killer of LiPos. You are never supposed to discharge them beyond 80%. Doing so more than once or twice will kill them in a short time. Flying until LVC kicks in will kill your Lipos very quickly, as that discharges them to 90-95%. Doing that even once will cause irreversible cell damage. Always use a flight-timer & set it so that you land before the 80% discharge point, as measured by how many mAh it takes to recharge. Also, storing your LiPos fully-charged when you're not going to fly for a week or more will dramatically shorten their lifespan.

That said - your Nanos are not likely to last more than 50-100 cycles no matter how well you treat them. If you want LiPos for the mQX that are known to last for 300 cycles at 5c charge before they start to fade away, buy some Hyperion 550s.

Joel
turboparker is online now Find More Posts by turboparker
RCG Plus Member
Old Jan 16, 2013, 10:11 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2011
229 Posts
That's something else I've been guitly of, charging them up again (half an hour after use) so they're ready to go next time. Sometimes 2-3 weeks later, or more in the winter.

Just for the sake of clarity... I'm flying my mQX and the blue light flashes. I shut down immediately. Have I hit LVC with that battery?

Oddly, my best battery giving 5-minute flights is soft and bulging. Danger?
teflon97239 is offline Find More Posts by teflon97239
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 16, 2013, 11:57 AM
Registered User
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Oct 2012
628 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by teflon97239 View Post
Okay, forgive my noobness...

I'm aware that draining batteries is bad and kills them.

With a clear canopy on my mQX, I can clearly see the aft blue light flashing when a battery is finished. I can even look at my watch, go explore, and then come in close toward the end to practice precision maneuvers until I see the first flash, and land.

Simple question: Is that too late? I'm perfectly satsified dropping straight to ground and swapping batts the moment I see it flashing.

Is that too late?

To be fair, I badly abused the batteries I'm using now in a 120SR (for sale) and a Champ with extra-huge wings and a camera. They're toast. So I'm really asking:

What will happen if I charge the brand new Nano 600's I just ordered at 0.3A ALWAYS, use them only in the mQX and religiously stop when the blue battery light starts flashing?

I love uncomplicated hobbies. Foolishness? Or can I keep it simple watching the blue light and get a decent year out of my new cells?
So there are far more knowledgeable here than I and you've already received at least one reply - but here's my 2 cents worth as well.

The flashing light is LVC. Power should start dropping at the same time. Running to this with every battery is risking the battery IMHO. I set a timer for 6 minutes and every one of my batteries (2 Nano 600s - others are 500 or 550 something??) last the 6 minutes with no flashing light, no LVC.

I charge my 600 Nanos at 0.7 on the stock charger and charge my 500/550s at 0.6. I've not had any issues with my Nanos (like someone else mentioned above).

Also, you may know this but by reading the above it's not clear to me. If you are landing, popping a new battery in, and taking off again - you also may be stressing your motors. I recommend letting them cool for at least 5 minutes between flights. Again, others may have different recommendations.
jdr00ejr is offline Find More Posts by jdr00ejr
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 16, 2013, 01:51 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,533 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by teflon97239 View Post
That's something else I've been guitly of, charging them up again (half an hour after use) so they're ready to go next time. Sometimes 2-3 weeks later, or more in the winter.

Just for the sake of clarity... I'm flying my mQX and the blue light flashes. I shut down immediately. Have I hit LVC with that battery?

Oddly, my best battery giving 5-minute flights is soft and bulging. Danger?
Your batteries are shot. Most likely due to over-discharge damage. Puffy LiPos can be dangerous. Quit using any puffy cells and immediately dispose of them properly. You should be getting 8-12 minutes of mixed flying to the 80% discharge point with a high-quality 500-600 mAh cell (assuming that ambient temp is above 50 F). As JD mentioned - flying until the light flashes is killing your LiPos. If you are serious about the hobby, pick up one of the chargers in my previous post so that you know how deeply you are discharging your LiPos, and then set your flight-timer so that you land before the 80% discharge point. If your budget is really tight, pick up a Turnigy Accucel 6. An accurate charger that displays charge info will pay for itself quickly in battery savings alone.

Here is a good article from Hyperion regarding LiPo care. It applies to all LiPos - not just Hyperion:

LIPO CARE

Break-In Procedure - Hyperion G3 LiPo are robust and do not need a complicated break-in procedure. We recommend that the first 5 uses are limited to 3C charge rates, and that pilots use throttle management to avoid long periods of max-rate discharge for those first 5 flights. Note also the other care suggestions below. Those apply pretty generally to any LiPo pack, not just Hyperion G3...

Discharge - Analysis of damaged packs returned to us by users shows that nearly 70% have suffered from "capacity over-discharge" conditions. This simply means that the pack has been run too long, allowing resting voltage to fall too low. Such damage is visible upon cell inspection at the factory. Every type of battery has a minimum recommended discharge level. For example, even deep-cycle lead-acid batteries should not be regularly discharged down to less than 30%~40% of capacity. In the case of lithium polymer, it is best practice to always leave 20% of rated capacity in the pack at the end of a flight, with 10% as an absolute minimum.

To avoid capacity over-discharge, we recommend the setting of an appropriate cut-off voltage (LVC) AND the use of a transmitter flight timer. For LVC, the appropriate voltage cut-off depends in large on how high the max and average discharge rates are. For very high discharge applications, like F5B competition, something around 3.2V (or even lower) may be desirable. For standard aerobatic flight, start at 3.4V to 3.5V/cell, and set your timer to 4 minutes initially. Then note the capacity charged back IN to the pack on next charge. If the pack is 1000mAh, for example, there should be no more than 800mAh charged back in, meaning that 200mAh remained at the end of the flight (20% of capacity). If the charged IN capacity is less than 800mAh, set the timer a little longer, and check again the next flight. Of course, having the Hyperion Emeter II Remote Data Logger (RDU) makes this even easier, as you can more accurately log the exact mAh Out used each flight and make quick adjustments...

Charge - All Hyperion G3 packs can be charged at 6C rates, with no reduction in cycle life or performance. However, given the negligible difference in charge time for 6C rate vs. 5C, we believe 5C to be the ideal max charge rate for any high-performance Lipo pack. We strongly recommend the use of quality-brand charger, such as the Hyperion EOS lineup, as some generic brand chargers have been shown to use poor components, and may therefore not control charge voltage properly. Hyperion holds that 4.20V/cell (+/- 0.05V) is the proper terminal voltage for Hyperion G3 packs (and all other Lipo). Use of terminal voltages higher than this (for racing, etc) is not covered under warranty, and may be dangerous. (note: some G3 packaging may still state 5C max on front or rear. However, all G3 are rated for 6C max no-loss.)

PLEASE be sure that charging is always done such that in case of fire, no damage nor injury can occur. Keep LiPo well separated (minimum 2M or 7') from flammables, and always use a brick enclosure or "LiPo sack" to insure that any possible fire can be contained. We strongly discourage charging within or near living spaces, or inside automobiles. LiPo charging should be monitored closely at all times.

Temperature - For best performance and cycle life, your Hyperion G3 battery packs should have a resting temperature no lower than 10 C (50 F) at the beginning of a Flight, or beginning of Charging. Keep the batteries inside your vehicle or a warmer of some kind on very cold days, to insure best performance and life (this is true for any LiPo, not just G3). If you have any concerns about the temperature on cold days and you have Hyperion NET or DUO charger, you can use the TCS function set to 90% to help insure that the batteries do not suffer over-voltage condition due to the temperature.

Physical - Never cause indentations to the covering of the pack, or cells underneath. Do not use a ball-point pen to write on the pack, for example. Use a felt-tip pen with light pressure instead. When installing packs in the model, insure that they have the best protection possible from impact and pressure damage. Use foam casing if possible. Do not over-tighten hold down straps. Straps should be cloth (velcro) as opposed to hard plastic, such as zip ties. External damage to any Lipo pack can cause salts formations which reduce performance, and in more severe cases can cause fires during charging. Impact Damaged packs should be fully discharged, and disposed of immediately. See below for Hyperion Warranty, and Crash Replacement Program details.

Storage - Lipo should never be stored fully charged, or with less than 50% of capacity remaining. We strongly recommend Hyperion EOS chargers, as they have automatic STORE functions to insure that the packs are in the range of about 60%~70% capacity (3.78V~3.92V resting voltage per cell). After returning home for the day, simply use STORE MODE to achieve this automatically. Batteries are best stored in a cool, dry environment (2~20 C or 37~68 F).

Joel
turboparker is online now Find More Posts by turboparker
RCG Plus Member
Last edited by turboparker; Jan 16, 2013 at 02:00 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 17, 2013, 10:47 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,134 Posts
My right rear motor quit today...will a main motor from an MSR work in its place?
Jake8131 is offline Find More Posts by Jake8131
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 18, 2013, 09:54 AM
Registered User
United States, WI, Merrill
Joined Jun 2011
1,421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake8131 View Post
My right rear motor quit today...will a main motor from an MSR work in its place?
Hi Jake
They seem to be the same 8 X 20 mm size motors, and even the main plastic gear seems about the same size, but the brass motor pinion gear is different. The mSR has only 8 cogs, if my weak eyesight is true, the mQX has 11 cogs. The mQX brass pinion looks bigger around and would likely need to be used on the mSR motor to work. Then there is that unsure matter of motor brush orientation. The brushes are flipped in the mQX motors for clockwise or counterclockwise rotation, (some have claimed some success running them backwards to their design). It might be worth a try if you are desparate and can make the pinion swap.

John in Merrill

PS I would probably find a LHS near you that has the right motor with the correct pinion. My pinion puller is kind of iffy on those tiny motors.
jgestner is offline Find More Posts by jgestner
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 18, 2013, 10:20 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,533 Posts
Running these 'pager' motors in reverse is a poor idea, as they tend to die very early.

Joel
turboparker is online now Find More Posts by turboparker
RCG Plus Member
Old Jan 18, 2013, 11:31 AM
Have fun
airpower's Avatar
Joined May 2007
6,086 Posts
True, but becuase of the two cooling hole brushed motor life issue, I have flown the motors with four cooling holes plugged in reverse, they are still going as strong the motors plugged correctly, after one hundred and fifty flights, wierd and sometimes wonderful things happen!
airpower is offline Find More Posts by airpower
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sold BNF PZ J3 Cub, BNF PZ P-51D Mustang, Blade mSR RTF & DX6i nyaaah!! Aircraft - Electric - Micro & Indoor Airplanes (FS/W) 11 Oct 06, 2011 11:21 AM
For Sale New Blade 400 RTF Will sell as BNF papower Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 8 Aug 04, 2011 12:28 PM
Sold ON HOLD....FS/WTT Like New (RTF) Heli-Max AXE CPv3 For Like New (BNF) Blade mCP X ABADGTP Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 0 Jul 26, 2011 07:22 PM
Sold Blade MCX2 Like New RTF or BNF tamiyafan1975 Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 1 Jul 14, 2011 03:39 PM
Sold Blade mCPX RTF or BNF (factory sealed new in box) PatternFlyer Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 5 Mar 28, 2011 03:25 PM