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Old Apr 09, 2012, 09:57 PM
Newb to RC Helicopters
Skyfishertom's Avatar
Round Rock, TX
Joined Dec 2010
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I know I'm a bit late to the party... I got my mQX this past Saturday and wow, it is more fun than I expected! Having a blast with it, indoors or outdoors, I've had about 9 flights now, I highly recommend it. Now I'll be wanting one about 50% bigger with a little more power to take it to the next level.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 10:05 PM
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United States, MI, Rochester Hills
Joined Oct 2000
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Originally Posted by Skyfishertom View Post
I know I'm a bit late to the party... I got my mQX this past Saturday and wow, it is more fun than I expected! Having a blast with it, indoors or outdoors, I've had about 9 flights now, I highly recommend it. Now I'll be wanting one about 50% bigger with a little more power to take it to the next level.
Like you, I found the mQX was a lot more fun than I ever expected when I bought it. But unlike you, I don't really have a hankering for a larger version. The mQX can be flown with near total disregard for damage. Not so with larger quads. The larger versions may be more stable for photography, and maybe faster for flips, but they are more expensive and don't really expand the flight envelope in proportion to their cost and fragility. I think the only real improvement to the mQX would be better (ie., more rugged) motors, be they brushless or simply improved brushed versions. I don't even need more power. IMO, anyway.....

Paul
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 10:13 PM
Mtz
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Romania, PH, Ploiesti
Joined Mar 2012
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But if just using a bigger frame, or only that 4 rods longer? Don't know about the propellers if can be used bigger. But everything in light versions.

Few pages back was a test about how much can carry the mQX.

enjoy,
Mtz
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 10:14 PM
Pastor of Muppets \m/
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United States, TX, Odessa
Joined Mar 2010
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I think I might be with you on this one, Paul. Although once my skills max out on the mQx I could definitely see myself wanting to fly my dslr around a bit on a bigger quad. That day s a long way away for keep though. I still have to get out f the habit of staying tail in with the little guy first and start doing some banked turns. I'd love to see some vid's of you guys that have mastered or come close to mastering flying this thing.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 10:28 PM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
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United States, IA, Grinnell
Joined Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by TheOne420 View Post
It is true that lower c can help with battery life but I have 2 eflite packs and 2 nano packs and I have had no drop in performance or runtimes with any of my packs and I always charge them at a 2c rate of 1 ap for the eflite and 1.2 amp for the nano's. A lot of the trouble people get from the batterys is from not storing them properly. they should be charged to aprox 80% of full charge so on a 1 cell pack that would be 3.36 volts. if you store them at less voltage or even more than that it can cause damage to the packs because the voltage can fluctuate and cause the battery to go above nominal voltage or below nominal voltage.
so I will continue to charge at 2c charge rates for these batteries at least until i show ill effects and after about 100 charges I thought it would show by now.
I always store mine at 3.8v. I don't even discharge below 3.75v.
Works for me.
Ron
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 11:18 PM
Chad
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United States, CA, Cathedral City
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by A Rdnek View Post
I always store mine at 3.8v. I don't even discharge below 3.75v.
Works for me.
Ron
you are right I was a little wonky earlier and my math proves it. It should be 3.7v storage but 3.6-3.8 is optimal storage for a lipo cell acording all the reading I have done. the 3.3v is the lowest a cell should be drained to. but i never go below 3.5v per cell
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 12:02 AM
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United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
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I as well was not prepared for how fun this quad was. I can see all the time on the sim really paying off here as I am able to apply it and bank into turns and control the slide that comes with 180 yaw maneuvers and correct it with aileron in nose in orientation. It is really helping me get to the collective pitch stage that much faster.
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 07:51 AM
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The Netherlands, NH, Nieuw-Vennep
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According to several webshops the MQX should be in stock again this week. I surely hope so. Can't wait for mine to be delivered
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 09:41 AM
amo ludibria ventis
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United States, VA, Chantilly
Joined Oct 2010
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According to several webshops the MQX should be in stock again this week. I surely hope so. Can't wait for mine to be delivered
My local hobby shop got so many in, they made a pyramid out of the boxes yesterday.
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 09:46 AM
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The Netherlands, NH, Nieuw-Vennep
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Ok, I hope they shipped a huge pyramid to EU sellers than also
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 12:43 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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With LiPos, unloaded voltage is a very poor indicator of discharge-depth. The unloaded voltage at a given discharge depth varies as a function of discharge current. It is far more accurate to go by the mAh required to recharge. At typical mQX currents, an 80% discharge results in an unloaded voltage of about 3.6 volts on the Hyp 550 cells.

Joel
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 03:01 PM
Pastor of Muppets \m/
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United States, TX, Odessa
Joined Mar 2010
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Paul, would you mind helping a noob a bit by labeling your images. Maybe just circle where you connected each of the resistors in MS Paint or PS if you have it and don't mind. Did you just set them over the location and put a small drop of solder? To connect the LEDs to the resistor did you just tin the two connections and then heat them together? I realize these are basic questions but it would really help me out. I'm determined to do this I would just rather not fry my board in the process. Also if you could link me to the wire that you used from radio shack that would be really helpful too. I found some 3mm LEDs in stock at my local, luckily. I'm just not sure which wire to look for. Thanks for any help you can provide!

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Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post
OK, here ya go.

I used 5mm LEDs because that was what I could find at Radio Shack. I now have some nice 3mm LEDs but the 5mm ones are fine. I cut the leads so they extended most of the way down the front of the gear cage, soldered wires to them and added shrink tube. This assembly is zip tied to the front of the gear cage.



The wires now run along the boom and are secured with a length of shrink tube, placed so the motor retainer can be pulled back to remove the motor.



On the board, the wires attach to the ground foil (green wires) and to one of four 100 ohm resistors connected to the Vbat foil. The fifth resistor is shared between two internal LEDs. One is red and points rearward (it can be seen through the canopy) and the other is white with the lens ground off. It illuminates the canopy from the inside at night.



I know some omit the resistors, but they serve to limit the current to a reasonable level (about 8mA in this case... and they are PLENTY bright) and avoid damaging the LEDs. Without them, the only thing limiting the current is the LED, battery and wiring resistance. I used 1/4W resistors because that was all I had, even though they are physically a bit big. They dissipate very little power, and 1/8W or even 1/16W resistors would be fine if available. Note that it is safer to place them directly on the Vbat foil instead of at the LED so the entire positive wire is current limited in the event of a short.

Next project if I can find some appropriate (1.25mm?) connectors is to use the (assumed) LED pads provided on the board and see what they do.... I think three outputs blink and one is steady, but I have not connected an LED while running up the motors. They definitely blink when the throttle is closed.

Paul
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 03:27 PM
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United States, WI, Merrill
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Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post

Next project if I can find some appropriate (1.25mm?) connectors is to use the (assumed) LED pads provided on the board and see what they do.... I think three outputs blink and one is steady, but I have not connected an LED while running up the motors. They definitely blink when the throttle is closed.

Paul
Are you looking for the type of connectors used for the motors? You can get them at www.rc-connectors.com
They work great and you can get male and female versions there too.
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 03:33 PM
Pastor of Muppets \m/
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United States, TX, Odessa
Joined Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by jgestner View Post
Are you looking for the type of connectors used for the motors? You can get them at www.rc-connectors.com
They work great and you can get male and female versions there too.
Would those connectors fit here? Are these the LED pads he mentioned?

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Old Apr 10, 2012, 04:08 PM
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United States, MI, Rochester Hills
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Originally Posted by major.monogram View Post
Paul, would you mind helping a noob a bit by labeling your images. Maybe just circle where you connected each of the resistors in MS Paint or PS if you have it and don't mind. Did you just set them over the location and put a small drop of solder? To connect the LEDs to the resistor did you just tin the two connections and then heat them together? I realize these are basic questions but it would really help me out. I'm determined to do this I would just rather not fry my board in the process. Also if you could link me to the wire that you used from radio shack that would be really helpful too. I found some 3mm LEDs in stock at my local, luckily. I'm just not sure which wire to look for. Thanks for any help you can provide!
I don't want to sound elitist, but I hesitate to give a step by step set of instructions on connecting to the pads on the board. Some are decent size and some are simply one end of an 0402 component. This is VERY delicate work and unless you are experienced soldering to SMD components and have the appropriate soldering iron and tools, you can easily destroy your board.

A MUCH safer approach would be to make a male/female JST adapter that allows you to tap into the battery voltage without soldering to the board at all. You could then connectorize the LEDs and there would be zero risk of damaging anything.

As for the wire, it has been so long since I bought it, I honestly don't remember what it was aside from the fact that I bought it at Radio Shack. It was back in the day when there were no commercial outrunner motors available and us Piccolo nuts were experimenting with making them from CDROM motors, if that gives you any idea about how long it has been

OK, just had a peek at the RadioShack site and darned if they don't still sell the stuff. It is this three spool set (three different guages), for $7.95. As I recall, one size is way too heavy but the other two are about right and one is green and the other is red. Note that it is enameled wire, and has to be stripped before you can solder to it. Some people scrape the enamel off, but if you have an adjustable iron, just set it for 800 degrees and you can burn the enamel off. Then set the iron back to 700 or 720 and slder normally. The wire is totall non-critical.... any wire will do. I used magnet wire because I had it and because I originally wanted to run it through the booms.

Don't forget the series resistors, one for each LED. Limited to between 8 and 10 mA per LED, there is no discernable impact on flight time.

I see in another post that someone has pointed me to a source for connectors. I'll order some and see if they fit. I think they will... I measured the hole spacing at 1.3mm but 1.25 sounds close enough. If so, I'll add the 0402 resistors to the board and see what the LEDs do. This might be a much easier way to add lights. It still requires soldering four 0402 resistors which isn't easy unless you have some experience, but it is a lot less risky than the way I did it.

Paul
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