HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Mar 17, 2012, 05:40 PM
Registered User
kodak_jack's Avatar
Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
9,709 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgestner View Post
Hi Jack
Yes that is the Parkflyer Plastics Interceptor body without the bottom tub that can hold/hide the battery. I skipped the bottom to save some weight.

As far as prop changes, I am of the opinion that the motors on this little guy are stressed enough already and anything that would put any kind of different load on them would strain them beyond usefulness. I have gone through 3 or 4 clockwise motors already in less than 2 months without any extra modding.

I have not had mine in a very big space yet, but it sure seems to have more than enough forward speed and lift without any indication that I can see that a change is wanted.

Motor longevity is the only problem I see.
I've seen the same kinds of problems on other Eflite stuff with their coreless motors and things usually migrate to brushless. The Solo Pro tail motors for 1/2 the price sound promising, but I don't know how well they'll do going in the opposite direction.
kodak_jack is offline Find More Posts by kodak_jack
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Mar 17, 2012, 08:16 PM
Slowly but Shirley
segroegt's Avatar
Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Jan 2009
1,525 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
I've seen the same kinds of problems on other Eflite stuff with their coreless motors and things usually migrate to brushless. The Solo Pro tail motors for 1/2 the price sound promising, but I don't know how well they'll do going in the opposite direction.
Hey it is all relative to your usage. So far after 3 years the E-Flite coreless are way better than some brush motor that I had to put up with. i remember changing tail motor weekly with my Helimax CPV3. Best Regards.
segroegt is offline Find More Posts by segroegt
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2012, 08:17 PM
Registered User
United States, WI, Merrill
Joined Jun 2011
1,421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
I've seen the same kinds of problems on other Eflite stuff with their coreless motors and things usually migrate to brushless. The Solo Pro tail motors for 1/2 the price sound promising, but I don't know how well they'll do going in the opposite direction.
I hope you don't buy too many Solo Pro tail motors to try on your mQX. The main motor on the Solo Pro is an 8.5mm just like the clockwise motors we are all having trouble with on the mQX, (the pinion gear must be swapped from a burned out mQX motor though). The tail motors on the Solo Pro are the same 6mm used on a bunch of copters for tail motors, (mSR, mSRX, Solo Pro. Bravo SX, Great Wall Xieda 9958, WL V911, and on and on).
jgestner is offline Find More Posts by jgestner
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2012, 08:53 PM
Yep I got another one.
mohillbilly's Avatar
Springfield, Mo.
Joined Jan 2005
2,529 Posts
Well I have glued my motor back on and it flys just fine, still original motors. The only thing I have noticed is if I gun it to pop a quick flip or roll the front lifts up more than the tail. I just finished up my MX400 KK board setup and was hoping that it would fly close to how the MQX flys. However I quickly found that after getting it setup correctly it flys even BETTER than the MQX. So the poor baby is getting neglected.
mohillbilly is offline Find More Posts by mohillbilly
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2012, 09:21 PM
Registered User
pgoelz's Avatar
United States, MI, Rochester Hills
Joined Oct 2000
916 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post
Well, I guess I'll be a second data point. My second original CW motor died this afternoon with a dead comm sector. It suddenly would not always start. If you advanced the throttle and then helped it along, you could feel the dead comm section when it rotated. I was at the flying field so I just replaced it.... this evening I'll WD-40 it and see I can revive it.

I had just 30 minutes before purchased a CW and a CCW motor so I put the CCW motor on in its place. It flies fine, and I have so far done two 8 minute flights outdoors. We'll see how long it lasts. It'll be a bummer if it doesn't last very long.... I'm hoping it will.

Paul
Well, here I am again. I now have 8-10 flights with the CCW motor in place of the CW motor and almost all those were outdoors in gusty winds doing flips so it was working hard. No sign of trouble yet. Here's hoping.

However, if longevity is related to how well they are timed, it may be the luck of the draw. The four (two CW and two CCW) I tested were not very consistently timed for the intended direction of rotation.

Paul
pgoelz is offline Find More Posts by pgoelz
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 01:50 AM
Have fun
airpower's Avatar
Joined May 2007
6,086 Posts
I would like to stress this again, flying my dad's mcx, the coreless motors got very hot after 6 minutes, but thry still last over a hundred flights. I believe twelve minutes kills these, they get very hot after six minutes and so the six minutes after that the motors are overheating. I suggest that after six minutes of flying to give it a one or two minute break, then do the rest of the flight.
This may not solve the problem, but i really hope that this might bring motor life much closer to their lifespan in msr/mcx etc.
airpower is offline Find More Posts by airpower
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 05:30 AM
Registered User
pgoelz's Avatar
United States, MI, Rochester Hills
Joined Oct 2000
916 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by airpower View Post
I would like to stress this again, flying my dad's mcx, the coreless motors got very hot after 6 minutes, but thry still last over a hundred flights. I believe twelve minutes kills these, they get very hot after six minutes and so the six minutes after that the motors are overheating. I suggest that after six minutes of flying to give it a one or two minute break, then do the rest of the flight.
This may not solve the problem, but i really hope that this might bring motor life much closer to their lifespan in msr/mcx etc.
In the mQX, the motors seem to be relatively lightly loaded in normal flight and I don't think heat is the issue. I have felt mine after a flight and I have never detected any heat.

The issue with the motors in the mQX seems to be that the brushes burn away. That would be either mechanical friction or excessive arcing... or both. The first of my two motors to show signs of failure got "crunchy" after just a couple sedate indoor flights. Not sure what was the cause, but the best guess would be pitting on the com and/or the brushes. After a WD-40 treatment, it smoothed out and lasted for another month (with a couple more WD-40 treatments when it got stiff again) before it finally got noticeably weaker than the other three.

Paul
pgoelz is offline Find More Posts by pgoelz
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 06:37 AM
good till the first drop
lesodell's Avatar
michigan usa
Joined Jan 2005
607 Posts
Come on horizon man up and get some good motors out for this heli i know you are watching this post !
lesodell is offline Find More Posts by lesodell
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:10 AM
United States, CA, Santa Rosa
Joined Mar 2011
877 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by airpower View Post
I would like to stress this again, flying my dad's mcx, the coreless motors got very hot after 6 minutes, but thry still last over a hundred flights. I believe twelve minutes kills these, they get very hot after six minutes and so the six minutes after that the motors are overheating. I suggest that after six minutes of flying to give it a one or two minute break, then do the rest of the flight.
This may not solve the problem, but i really hope that this might bring motor life much closer to their lifespan in msr/mcx etc.
I agree with you, I limit my flights to 8 minutes and have not had a motor failure after 2 months of almost daily flying.
asosestrom is offline Find More Posts by asosestrom
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:14 AM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2011
108 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post
In the mQX, the motors seem to be relatively lightly loaded in normal flight and I don't think heat is the issue. I have felt mine after a flight and I have never detected any heat.

The issue with the motors in the mQX seems to be that the brushes burn away. That would be either mechanical friction or excessive arcing... or both. The first of my two motors to show signs of failure got "crunchy" after just a couple sedate indoor flights. Not sure what was the cause, but the best guess would be pitting on the com and/or the brushes. After a WD-40 treatment, it smoothed out and lasted for another month (with a couple more WD-40 treatments when it got stiff again) before it finally got noticeably weaker than the other three.

Paul
I posted earlier about a temp variance between my motors taken with a digital used to tune my nitro engines. I could predict the impending failure by the temp difference after flight. I tried the WD-40 thing and also used DE-OXIT to no avail. My MQX is currently at HH so well see what they say.I do agree about maybe shortening flight times to help reliability. Thats only a band-aid though. The brushes were completely gone on two of my five motors that I opened up so maybe heat is just an indicator of the brushes going bye-bye. I'm certainly no expert on those little motors but at the rate I was going I would have about eight-hundred dollars in motors over the course of a year. No utility value in that equation. I expect to hear from HH in a week or so and I will let you know the outcome.
stablehover is offline Find More Posts by stablehover
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:17 AM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2011
108 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by asosestrom View Post
I agree with you, I limit my flights to 8 minutes and have not had a motor failure after 2 months of almost daily flying.
I fully intend to take your course of action on flight times when I get mine back. That is just a smart way to go for the moment. Although one of my replacement motors failed after two short test hovers in my living room so who knows
stablehover is offline Find More Posts by stablehover
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:25 AM
Registered User
Joined May 2007
120 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by airpower View Post
I would like to stress this again, flying my dad's mcx, the coreless motors got very hot after 6 minutes, but thry still last over a hundred flights. I believe twelve minutes kills these, they get very hot after six minutes and so the six minutes after that the motors are overheating. I suggest that after six minutes of flying to give it a one or two minute break, then do the rest of the flight.
This may not solve the problem, but i really hope that this might bring motor life much closer to their lifespan in msr/mcx etc.
Good morning all!

Hi airpower !

I also have tested this setup as flown, and under bench test conditions.

When the motors are normally operated (without added weight of modified bodies/lights/floats/cameras) even under the most rigorous flight envelope, for ~ 9 min. / ~400mah expended, the motors are just barely, almost imperceptibly warm, and are "cool" within a very short time (less than a minute).

The diagnosis of a failing motor is heat. As has also been noted by others, there are other things to check for also, such as missing or dirty/failed/poorly seated bearings, binding gear sets, and large gears pressed on too tight.

Moving the motor cover off, and sliding the motor up to disengage the drive, the prop assembly should rotate quite frictionlessly.
Stresscracked is offline Find More Posts by Stresscracked
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 10:28 AM
Registered User
pgoelz's Avatar
United States, MI, Rochester Hills
Joined Oct 2000
916 Posts
CAUTION......

I just had a wiring short at the inboard end of one of the booms. Fortunately for my FETs, the positive wire from my LED lighting shorted to the positive wire for the motor. I noticed it because the light was out and the motor was spinning slowly (there is a 100 ohm resistor from the LED wire to positive). However, if the short had been from the motor positive to the negative LED wire or to the negative motor wire, it would have blown a FET.

The short seems to be where the wires exit the end of the boom and fold backwards. I have been careful to make sure all four are always in the "tunnel" provided for wiring, but I don't think there is any protection between the end of the boom and the point where the boom hits the end of the boom pocket in the main frame or motor pod. I suspect the wires were pinched together at that point and it eventually wore through the enamel insulation.

Might be a good idea to inspect that area on both ends of the boom and maybe to refrain from shoving the motor pod and boom ends all the way home.

Paul
pgoelz is offline Find More Posts by pgoelz
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2012, 11:03 AM
Ascended Master
Sparky Paul's Avatar
Palmdale, CA
Joined Oct 2000
13,370 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lesodell View Post
Come on horizon man up and get some good motors out for this heli i know you are watching this post !
.
I'd buy another, if I had any confidence in the motor life... which is why I returned the first one I had.
Sparky Paul is offline Find More Posts by Sparky Paul
RCG Plus Member
Old Mar 18, 2012, 12:21 PM
Registered Addict
Kris...'s Avatar
United Kingdom, Stoke-on-Trent
Joined Jul 2010
5,247 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post
The short seems to be where the wires exit the end of the boom and fold backwards. I have been careful to make sure all four are always in the "tunnel" provided for wiring, but I don't think there is any protection between the end of the boom and the point where the boom hits the end of the boom pocket in the main frame or motor pod. I suspect the wires were pinched together at that point and it eventually wore through the enamel insulation.

Might be a good idea to inspect that area on both ends of the boom and maybe to refrain from shoving the motor pod and boom ends all the way home.

Paul
I have all booms wires wrapped around the booms rather then in the "tunnel" because of this problem.
When you crash one boom end it is enough to pinch and cut a wire in the main frame at least thats what i have experienced on a hard boom impact.
Kris... is offline Find More Posts by Kris...
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sold BNF PZ J3 Cub, BNF PZ P-51D Mustang, Blade mSR RTF & DX6i nyaaah!! Aircraft - Electric - Micro & Indoor Airplanes (FS/W) 11 Oct 06, 2011 11:21 AM
For Sale New Blade 400 RTF Will sell as BNF papower Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 8 Aug 04, 2011 12:28 PM
Sold ON HOLD....FS/WTT Like New (RTF) Heli-Max AXE CPv3 For Like New (BNF) Blade mCP X ABADGTP Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 0 Jul 26, 2011 07:22 PM
Sold Blade MCX2 Like New RTF or BNF tamiyafan1975 Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 1 Jul 14, 2011 03:39 PM
Sold Blade mCPX RTF or BNF (factory sealed new in box) PatternFlyer Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 5 Mar 28, 2011 03:25 PM