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Old Feb 17, 2012, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Tres Wright View Post
.... A tiny drop of oil on the bushing is about the only maintenance you can do on these pager motors.
Thanks Tres.

What kind of oil would you recommend(if not WD40)? And pardon my ignorance, but into which tiny hole on the motor case would I apply this drop into? I see 4 tiny circular holes at the end where the pinion gear is, and two circular holes on the plastic cap at the opposite end where the colored wires come out...
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HRPuffnstuff View Post
Getting back on topic I'm going to use electric cleaner on my motors (mqx and mcpx) if they start acting up any or if I see signs of dirt discharge on the motor housing.
Yo Mon !

I don't know what the type of cleaner you have, but other posters...

turboparker
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2797
DeoxIT is good stuff - provided that you use the right kind for the job. I've been using their D-series contact cleaner/rejuvenator & their Fader F-series on my pro audio gear for years. Their Fader F-series also works very well for deoxidizing & rejuvenating the resistive strips on the linear servos that are used in many UM planes & helis. For lubricating small bearings & gears, I prefer Tri-Flow. It's the only lube that I use on my RC ground vehicles & rotorcraft.
Joel


pgoelz
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2799
I've been using DeoxIt (formerly Cramolin) for more that 20 years in audio and electric motor applications as well as other sliding contacts. It is very good stuff. Very inert, but improves electrical contact. We used to use it inside Piccolo tail motors (when we weren't using WD-40) and it definitely helped.
I should add that the stuff I am using is from 20 year old bottles, not the modern stuff. I assume it is the same, but I would be careful of any aerosolized versions. Make sure the propellant is compatible with the materials you are spraying it in or on.
Paul

This led me to this story...

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/....f?category=42
S-Gauge Train Maintenance - Commutators, etc.
Commutator Cleaning, etc.
By C. Zizzo
Hobbyist, model trains:
Recently, I brought to a halt all the S-Trains list discussions on using Wahl's Clipper Oil and other cleaning and lubricating remedies by challenging everyone to try CAIG Labs' DeoxIT® M260 Grease (mineral based).
The DeoxIT® M260Cp (w/copper particles) is a "conductive" lubricant INTENDED for commutators and other moving contacts. It improves contact, lengthens life, reduces ozone, eliminates most sparking and, in general, is a panacea for whatever ails your trains electrically.
Use it on e-units, transformer wipers, track surfaces, wheels, bearings that conduct electrically, live catenary and pantographs, you name it. The product will improve your railroad like it does the prototypes.
The boys on the S-list called my bluff, so I ended up ordering about 60 jars of the stuff from CAIG. They were very nice and included instructions for use on trains. They also included a sample of their DeoxIT® contact cleaner for everybody and I wrote up instructions, based on what I was told, and included it.
I use it on everything! The original instructions, by the way, called for a "VAPOR THIN" coating.
Stop using oils and volatile products on electrical contacts. Alcohol should NEVER be applied to a running commutator. It could flash over if you have spilled, or whatever may still be on the applicator and start a fire that would peel your skin off. Also, oil will ruin the insulation between commutator segments and destroy the motor. It can also flash and burn.
After disconnecting the power source, the DeoxIT® would be an excellent contact cleaner.
NOTE:
DeoxIT® GOLD (formerly ProGold)
DeoxIT® GOLD GxL (formerly ProGold GxL)
DeoxIT® SHIELD (formerly PreservIT)
DeoxIT® FaderLube (formerly CaiLube MCL)
DeoxIT® FaderGrease (formerly CaiLube MCL P20 & P40)
DeoxIT® Grease Type M260 & L260 Paste (formerly CaiLube Grease).

And a readily available alternative source, radio shack, carries a limited product line of theirs.

The product that would most closely fit the spec on these micromotors...

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.185/.f

M260Np
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 01:58 PM
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Joined Mar 2002
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Originally Posted by butter_fingers View Post
Thanks Tres.

What kind of oil would you recommend(if not WD40)? And pardon my ignorance, but into which tiny hole on the motor case would I apply this drop into? I see 4 tiny circular holes at the end where the pinion gear is, and two circular holes on the plastic cap at the opposite end where the colored wires come out...
Sorry, I should have been more clear. WD40 is actually a water displacement product rather than an oil (that's where the "WD" comes from). Machine oil is what you want to use, something like 3-In-One. You only need a tiny drop of it applied to the bushing where the shaft comes out of the motor. It's a bit hard to get to because it's under the pinion. If you have a needle applicator then it's a lot easier to get it in there, if not you can put a drop on the end of a pin or toothpick and get it in there. As you've noted the other end of the shaft rides in a plastic end bell, so you can't lube that end.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Thetis View Post
Very interesting, I looked into mine:

CW 4 in the gear end, 2 on the wire end
CCW 4 in the gear end, 2 on the wire end

No problems so far with any of those:

200 mins on the stock battery
190 mins on Hyp battery

Happy camper here
Yeah, there's the rub, I think there are different lots, and even different suppliers in the production runs of the mQX's.

Not at all uncommon in these products, and is also the reason that HH will replace them as we, the beta testers, weed them out.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 02:08 PM
What package dear?
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USA ILLINOIS
Joined Nov 2002
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Originally Posted by Stresscracked View Post
Hellysmack...

Here are what I had used. Found closeout at ToysRus when I first got the mQX...

No wires needed, each ball is 2.5 gms.

Each ball has bouyancy of 30gms. @ 80% immersion. 4 will float 120gms.

Trouble is...
http://dealbook.nytimes.com/2011/12/...or-sportcraft/
Wow I am thinking UV LEDs

I have cleaned out motors with tuner cleaner, it can be found with lube or with out lube.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Tres Wright View Post
Sorry, I should have been more clear. WD40 is actually a water displacement product rather than an oil (that's where the "WD" comes from). Machine oil is what you want to use, something like 3-In-One. You only need a tiny drop of it applied to the bushing where the shaft comes out of the motor. It's a bit hard to get to because it's under the pinion. If you have a needle applicator then it's a lot easier to get it in there, if not you can put a drop on the end of a pin or toothpick and get it in there. As you've noted the other end of the shaft rides in a plastic end bell, so you can't lube that end.
Thanks for your patience and info.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tres Wright View Post
Sorry, I should have been more clear. WD40 is actually a water displacement product rather than an oil (that's where the "WD" comes from). Machine oil is what you want to use, something like 3-In-One. You only need a tiny drop of it applied to the bushing where the shaft comes out of the motor. It's a bit hard to get to because it's under the pinion. If you have a needle applicator then it's a lot easier to get it in there, if not you can put a drop on the end of a pin or toothpick and get it in there. As you've noted the other end of the shaft rides in a plastic end bell, so you can't lube that end.
Referring to my prior post...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3282

The axial loads are well handled by the bearings at the top and bottom of the magnet. Oils applied externally to the shaft/bearing interface at the gear end will have little chance of climbing up past the bearing due to capillary forces holding the fluid tightly, but if the viscosity is low enough, I postulate that it may atomize enough to escape out of the winding core at the top, and help out the brushes. This is highly unlikely though.
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Last edited by Stresscracked; Feb 18, 2012 at 11:21 AM. Reason: Clarification added
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 02:52 PM
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Looking at this lubricant. Looks ok for the purpose of lubricating the tiny bushings of the MQX motors to prolong their life. Comes with a precision applicator that will allows reach under the pinion gear.

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Precisi.../dp/B0013R67A6
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Forney, TX
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Originally Posted by butter_fingers View Post
Looking at this lubricant. Looks ok for the purpose of lubricating the tiny bushings of the MQX motors to prolong their life. Comes with a precision applicator that will allows reach under the pinion gear.
Yeah, that would do the trick! Most of the time when people use WD40 around the house they should really be using something like this. You can "oil" a hinge with WD40 only to discover it's squealing again in a few days.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Stresscracked View Post
Referring to my prior post...
Those are good pics. Do you have one of the inside of the plastic end bell so people can see what we're trying to describe regarding the wipers? I thought I had seen one earlier in the thread but can't seem to find it now.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tres Wright View Post
Those are good pics. Do you have one of the inside of the plastic end bell so people can see what we're trying to describe regarding the wipers? I thought I had seen one earlier in the thread but can't seem to find it now.
Howdy...

Yeah the're in my prior posts, but here's a better one at higher magnification also showing the "glitter dust" of the brushes...
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 03:35 PM
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United States, IL
Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by Stresscracked View Post
Yeah, there's the rub, I think there are different lots, and even different suppliers in the production runs of the mQX's.

Not at all uncommon in these products, and is also the reason that HH will replace them as we, the beta testers, weed them out.
Good point-Thanks
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 03:54 PM
2012 ZX14R ....faster than you
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USA, NV, Carson City
Joined Sep 2006
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Originally Posted by Tres Wright View Post
A tiny drop of oil on the bushing is about the only maintenance you can do on these pager motors.
That's exactly what I have been doing for 60 flights each on my two MQXs.
I intend to occasionally update my motor status for those of you that might be on the fence about buying one of these awesome little gems and as a matter of FYI for the existing pilots.
Anyway, so far so good, 60 flights on both MQXs and no motor problems to date. 8 minute flights and ample cool down time between lift off. I will admit though, I very seldom find the need to do full throttle blasts and FWIW, I'm using the RTF Tx.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 04:23 PM
2012 ZX14R ....faster than you
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USA, NV, Carson City
Joined Sep 2006
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Fyi...............

I have found that after a couple of flights one or more of my booms loosen up ever so slightly. A gentle push inwards from opposite motor mounts reseats them. Also, put your MQX on a flat surface and make sure that the landing skids don't wobble up and down and adjust as necessary. In doing this before each flight, I get a hands off, very stable hover.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 04:59 PM
Always, against the wind
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Originally Posted by CCbusa05 View Post

Anyway, so far so good, 60 flights on both MQXs and no motor problems to date. 8 minute flights and ample cool down time between lift off. I will admit though, I very seldom find the need to do full throttle blasts and FWIW, I'm using the RTF Tx.
40 flights with the RTF Tx no problems at all. No lube so far but I guess is a must from now and on.
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