Originally Posted by AeroRecon

Got mine yesterday! Really slick. Only two indoor flights so far but I like it.
Only issue is that I have to have rudder trim (not subtrim yet) ALL the way to the right to keep it from yawing to the left. Even maxed, it still spins slowly to the left. Going to put subtrim in tonight but wondered if anyone else has this 'problem'.

If you feel comfortable doing it, pop the cover the cover off each motor and slide it down the boom a bit. Gently push up the motor (no goop/glue to worry about) to disengage the gear mesh. Spin each prop by hand and make absolutely sure they are as free as possible. If the white plastic gear is jammed up too far against the lower bearing, it will cause drag. I found this to be the case on two of my props. I moved the gears down just a hair to where there is barely any perceptible vertical play of the shaft, but enough to spin very freely.

Any asymmetrical drag will cause yaw problems. It appears we can't just push the white gears all the way up like we're used to doing on the mCP X. I've even found the same to be true with my mSR X. The white gear can be pressed up enough to cause binding/bearing drag.

Originally Posted by Jaycanyon

I had the same thing happen one time. The quad was angled over maybe 10 degrees or so when I plugged in the battery. When I gave it some throttle 2 of the motors were slow to get started. Eventually I unplugged the battery, waited a few seconds, then plugged it in again with the quad level and everything was fine.

Interesting. I plug my mCP X battery in with it lying on its side. No problems with the AS3X system in that heli. All it seems to care about is that it's not moving. For the quad, I just do it with it upside down as it sits perfectly level on the four props.

Originally Posted by dbarhsi

Interesting. I plug my mCP X battery in with it lying on its side. No problems with the AS3X system in that heli. All it seems to care about is that it's not moving. For the quad, I just do it with it upside down as it sits perfectly level on the four props.

I do it while the quad is sitting upside down as well. BUT just sitting upside down lets it wiggle still when plugging in, so I just put something under 2 of the props so it does not rock back and forth.

Ah I guess if I pulled the body off first it would sit stable on the top of the props

Originally Posted by dbarhsi

If you feel comfortable doing it, pop the cover the cover off each motor and slide it down the boom a bit. Gently push up the motor (no goop/glue to worry about) to disengage the gear mesh. Spin each prop by hand and make absolutely sure they are as free as possible. If the white plastic gear is jammed up too far against the lower bearing, it will cause drag. I found this to be the case on two of my props. I moved the gears down just a hair to where there is barely any perceptible vertical play of the shaft, but enough to spin very freely.

Any asymmetrical drag will cause yaw problems. It appears we can't just push the white gears all the way up like we're used to doing on the mCP X. I've even found the same to be true with my mSR X. The white gear can be pressed up enough to cause binding/bearing drag.

Good tip, I will have to keep an eye out for that problem.

Originally Posted by Erknie

Good tip, I will have to keep an eye out for that problem.

It's good to check every once in a while for the heck of it. I've found lint, carpet fibers, pet hair, etc wound up in the shafts of my regular micro helis.

Originally Posted by n3m1s1s

what i think everyone is seeing is the setting that were put into the flight controller ie how it was tuned for you all to fly it could just as easily been set up to act the reverse o how you see and eel it now but that might well of made it way too sensitive to handle in X mode

this quad i built last summer is roughly the same size as the mqx (i only guess so from looking at it against a standard tx) but i gave up on it as the fy90q i was using just couldnt get it stable enough andit would constntly dart ll over the place but it had plenty of lift whereas the multiwii made for a much more stable flight due to totally diferent settings but the size of the board i was using made it overweight with 2s lipos

...

when i set it to plus mode the fy90q seemed to work better so im thinking if you had software and a way to connect it to your pc you could make that quad feel how ever you liked in either mode within reason

I agree. Reading this made me realize that in the derivations of an earlier post, I made assumptions about the mQx flight controller's behavior and I added a note on these assumptions to the bottom (details) of that post:

Originally Posted by flying-llama

...
The short answer is that of the 4 possibilities,
the way to get the most torque for a "flip"
is to fly in X configuration and do a "diagonal" (full aileron and elevator) flip: what TonyTypeS was showing in the video (and Tres Wright and FlyWW1 were probably finding).

LATER: forgot to summarize the other 3 possibilities:
The possibility with the least torque is to fly in + configuration and do a "regular" flip/roll (full aileron or elevator, but not both).
Inbetween in torque are the 2 possibilities (a tie):
A. fly in + configuration and do a "diagonal" flip
B. fly in X configuration and do a "regular" flip/roll.
...

EVEN LATER: A comment by n3m1s1s made me realize that in my details, I was making assumptions about how the mQx flight controller would handle aileron and elevator commands. In particular, I was assuming that in the mQx, aileron and elevator commands would simply get added or subtracted to/from the throttle level for the relevant motors in both + and X configurations, which is what is done in the Multi-wii flight controller code. The KK flight controller code does things slightly differently. KK behaves like Multi-wii for the + configuration, but for the X configuration, KK will multiply the aileron and elevator commands by sin[60 degrees] ~ 0.866 before adding or subtracting to/from the throttle level.

Originally Posted by tc3wins

Hey guys one thing I have noticed and don't know if this has been posted before. but when you plug the battery in make sure the quad is level. I pluged mine in when the quad was sideways and the gyros were outta wack and 2 of the motors would not start with the others. but when I had it flat it was perfect. flys hands off.

There are no accelerometers, therefore it doesn't have to be level during initialization. It only has to be stationary. Upside-down, sideways, or anything in-between - it doesn't matter, so long as it remains motionless during the initialization process.

Joel

i am using a nano 750mah and 70c and i get 19 mins before lvo.and the batts cost 2.34 so not bad but i did cut off the stock batt holder and hot glue on one from a walkera
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Pro_180_.html

Originally Posted by lesodell

i am using a nano 750mah and 70c and i get 19 mins before lvo.and the batts cost 2.34 so not bad but i did cut off the stock batt holder and hot glue on one from a walkera
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Pro_180_.html

How hot do the motors get?

Originally Posted by A Rdnek

Dave Herbert has it going for him now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8UHi...8eFAAAAAAAAAAA
Ron

Nice! He's using "TinyBrite" lights...
http://flightlights.net/

I'm not going to show what I did with the 2 watch batteries cuz it's kinda bogus. I got some more LEDs and will do a system that runs on a 1S Lipo. I am not really comfortable with the idea of using the flight battery for LED power.

Originally Posted by jgestner

You don't need a balancer on a single cell battery pack. Just look up 1S-6S charger and see what hits you get.

John

Funny thing, my Hyperion charger flashes a warning that says "balancer recommended!" even when charging a 1-cell. Kinda stupid, but amusing anyway.

Originally Posted by superdave42

I do it while the quad is sitting upside down as well. BUT just sitting upside down lets it wiggle still when plugging in, so I just put something under 2 of the props so it does not rock back and forth.

It gives you some time to set it down before it initializes. Just plug the battery and set it down quickly and it should be fine. If you can't set it down quickly enough, put your throttle stick to the middle first, then plug it in, then set it down and put the throttle stick to zero, then wait for the mQX to light up, and fly.

Originally Posted by turboparker

There are no accelerometers, therefore it doesn't have to be level during initialization. It only has to be stationary. Upside-down, sideways, or anything in-between - it doesn't matter, so long as it remains motionless during the initialization process.

There are accelerometers (3 of them I think), but it doesn't understand absolute positioning relative to the force of gravity (or anything else), so it doesn't know when it's sideways (even in flight). Initialization is just about measuring the noise level, so it's important to hold it still and not generate additional noise, but the absolute position of it doesn't matter.

Must say it's a challenge to work and keep up with this thread! (Speaking of which, I was having motor problems (right/front) and found a cat hair wound up in the shaft close enough to the bearing that it was binding... Read earlier about someone mentioning this... flies great now!

Ok... now for bodies:

Here's a couple of sketches pointing the direction I'm heading with the camera body... based on the EyePod camera mount (There's a build thread over in the aerial photography forum), this one will be lighter and cover the electronics... The body will snap onto the frame with the four arms fitting into the small rectangular opening you see along the belly. The belly molding will have a recess for the battery aft of the control board to balance out the weight of the camera being forward and will house/protect the control board while providing vents for cooling... The FPV version will have a hatch on top to access electronics. 808 key chain camera body will be one piece...

Something all my MQX body designs have in common are the landing gear... I wanted a more aggressive stance with the rotors up off the ground. Later on for the scale bodies, I will remove the built in landing gear at each motor (The scale bodies will include molded nacells that will provide cooling, protection on impact and some aggressive styling.

This mod is quick and easy to do and only adds 6grams (I know I can cut 2 more grams off of that using smaller screws (my "magic drawers"... you know the ones that are filled up the edge with "junk" but you can always find whatever you need?... Well, mind gave up... I couldn't even find matching heads! LOL! I'll order them by the box for the body kits... (Shipping boxes are already ordered) The stock landing gear is cut and mounted on a 1/2" tall hard balsa block with screws that go into 1/8" light ply plates... If you want to try this on your own... REMOVE THE CONTROL BOARD FIRST! DO NOT DRILL OR TIGHTEN THE SCREWS WITH THE CONTROL BOARD IN PLACE!

The battery containment problem presented itself as an easy solution and hold the battery tightly. (Again, it the EyePod-MX camera ship body, the bottom rear body shell will have a molded internal battery compartment.

Ok... loooong day today... began at 3:30 pulling kit parts and getting nearer to completing the DaVinci foam wing cutter... Tresa's in the living room cutting all the plastic I vacuum formed earlier and being almost 6pm, I think it's time to stop and have dinner.... (God, She's great! What a true partner... humming away, Olfa knife slicing plastic some going into boxes, the rest into the recycling bin.... Think I'll invite her out!

Ok... if there's anyone out there that wants to go ahead with this mod and you have questions, share them here.... (There's a lot more photos (taken as if it were part of the build thread for the body), but I just got too tired to upload them all... (patterns too for the wood parts)... I can post them later for those interested.

Enjoy!

Richard

I may pick up one of these tomorrow if there are any left that is lol

Originally Posted by jasmine2501

Nice! He's using "TinyBrite" lights...
http://flightlights.net/

I'm not going to show what I did with the 2 watch batteries cuz it's kinda bogus. I got some more LEDs and will do a system that runs on a 1S Lipo. I am not really comfortable with the idea of using the flight battery for LED power.

Different color LEDs light up at different voltages, eg. blue usually takes more volts, therefore if you work out your resistors properly for a given LED model, you should be able to tune your LEDs so the blue ones start to flicker first as your battery starts to get low. A Blue LED may drop around 3.3 volts. This could be useful to let you know when the flight battery is getting low.

Originally Posted by jasmine2501

....There are accelerometers (3 of them I think), but it doesn't understand absolute positioning relative to the force of gravity (or anything else), so it doesn't know when it's sideways (even in flight). Initialization is just about measuring the noise level, so it's important to hold it still and not generate additional noise, but the absolute position of it doesn't matter.

Horizon's AS3X system uses a 3-axis mems rate gyro. According to the engineers, it doesn't use accelerometers. If it did, orientation would matter.

Joel

No mQX for me, at least for a while, the hobby shop says that the distributor has only RTF kits available, no BNF

Oh well, the witespy 450 will arrive next Tuesday, if anyone is at home for the delivery signature....