HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:01 PM
Gimbaled
superdave42's Avatar
morgan hill california
Joined May 2004
3,295 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarhsi View Post
How is that? Wouldn't motors throttle down as needed, even at 100% throttle, to give directional control?
it has been my experience so far that is not the case, I'm sure it could be done in software though
superdave42 is offline Find More Posts by superdave42
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:02 PM
Registered User
huskerfreak's Avatar
Joined Sep 2008
146 Posts
I think the spots in the squares in the picture would be the place for leds
huskerfreak is offline Find More Posts by huskerfreak
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:07 PM
Suspended Account
Joined Jan 2012
111 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by huskerfreak View Post
I think the spots in the squares in the picture would be the place for leds
Yes, and that's exactly why Horizon will probably never release a factory LED option. No way they're going to want us soldering on our control boards.
dbarhsi is offline Find More Posts by dbarhsi
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:18 PM
Registered User
huskerfreak's Avatar
Joined Sep 2008
146 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarhsi View Post
Yes, and that's exactly why Horizon will probably never release a factory LED option. No way they're going to want us soldering on our control boards.
I don't expect HH to come out with any you can get your own and do it easily!!
huskerfreak is offline Find More Posts by huskerfreak
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:20 PM
Suspended Account
Joined Jan 2012
111 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by huskerfreak View Post
I don't expect HH to come out with any you can get your own and do it easily!!
And, that's exactly it. That way if someone screws up their board trying to solder, HH won't have any liability at all since it wasn't their LED kit and they never gave even a hint of endorsing someone to try soldering on their board by selling a factory LED kit.
dbarhsi is offline Find More Posts by dbarhsi
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:21 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,533 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarhsi View Post
One more quick question. When they say CW/CCW motor, is that referring to the motor direction itself or the prop since they actually rotate opposite each other?
Should be easy to figure out by looking at the color of the end-bells on the respective motors & comparing them to the pics on the website.

Joel
turboparker is offline Find More Posts by turboparker
RCG Plus Member
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:23 PM
Suspended Account
Joined Jan 2012
111 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Should be easy to figure out by looking at the color of the end-bells on the respective motors & comparing them to the pics on the website.

Joel
Really? What a novel idea. However, "image coming soon" isn't a very helpful picture on Horizon's website for just about every mQX part, including the motors.
dbarhsi is offline Find More Posts by dbarhsi
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:26 PM
Registered User
United States, WI, Merrill
Joined Jun 2011
1,421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarhsi View Post
Turns out I have two spare mSR motors. What's the best way to swap pinions? I know I've seen micro gear pullers, but how do you press a pinion back on without putting too much stress on the back of the motor?
I think some people have heated the pinion gear. It expands enough that you don't need much pressure to get it back on the shaft. another trick is to drill out the pinion with a very precisely sized drill bit if necessary then put it back on the shaft with a bit of CA, hotmelt, or epoxy glue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarhsi View Post
One more quick question. When they say CW/CCW motor, is that referring to the motor direction itself or the prop since they actually rotate opposite each other?
It doesn't matter as long as there are two motors of each rotation, CW and CCW, one of each in front, and one of each in back. Similar rotation motors are at 180 degrees from each other on the booms.

John
jgestner is offline Find More Posts by jgestner
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:41 PM
Suspended Account
Joined Jan 2012
111 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgestner View Post
I think some people have heated the pinion gear. It expands enough that you don't need much pressure to get it back on the shaft. another trick is to drill out the pinion with a very precisely sized drill bit if necessary then put it back on the shaft with a bit of CA, hotmelt, or epoxy glue.
Thanks.

Quote:
It doesn't matter as long as there are two motors of each rotation, CW and CCW, one of each in front, and one of each in back. Similar rotation motors are at 180 degrees from each other on the booms.

John
Yes, but if you're ordering one motor, that doesn't help when Horizon doesn't have pictures up to check for black/grey end bells and black/white or red/blue wires. I just got off the line with Horizon and they're sending me a new motor. I'll just note what the package says in regards to the colors for future ordering.
dbarhsi is offline Find More Posts by dbarhsi
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:43 PM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
15,165 Posts
LED light sets

Hey guys, for anyone interested, Jeffrey said he can make up some mQX LED kits before he leaves and get them shipped, but orders need to be placed by 02-04-12. He's going to close his shop on the 5th and won't process orders again until the end of April. Here is the kit I requested from him:

2 blue LEDs on 3-1/2" leads
2 white LEDs on 3-1/2" leads
1 red LED on 2" lead
No connector (connect all the above and tie to 3-1/2" leads that I'll solder into the bat leads)

See this thread for info on contacting him (see post 153 and 157):

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post20546077

I have examined the mQX board and if you look at where the batt leads solder to the board, look underneath and you will see that those leads extend under the board and have two convenient blobs of solder there. I am thinking this will be an ideal place to solder the light kit leads to with little to no risk of harming the board since all the components are on top. But I've sized the leads long enough that the batt lead can be cut and they can be soldered there for those who are uncomfortable soldering on the board. Another option is to buy a male and female JST plug, make an extension and wire your lights into the extension. That might help people who don't like plugging in the short existing batt lead. Note that the 3-1/2" leads I've requested will not allow you to mount the LEDs all the way out on the motor mount. The reason for this is twice I've crashed my mQX and had an entire motor pod come unplugged and pop off the boom. If you mount an LED out there and that happens then the LED will likely rip off the wires. I plan on mounting the LEDs to the booms just before the motor mounts. I will probably point them up as this will project light onto the props and hopefully help with flying in total darkness, but they can also be placed on bottom.

I fly in "X" config and plan on installing the two white lights on the front booms and the blue lights on the back booms. The red light will be underneath the frame as an additional assist with orientation. It shouldn't be mounted to the body because the body usually pops off in a crash.

Jeffrey can do custom colors and wire lengths if you want something different than what I listed. I'm not sure if he'll have time to do a bunch of custom runs since he's leaving soon, but you can check with him.

When I get my set I'll do a full installation guide with photos

PS- I've installed his light sets on my micro Stryker and Sbach and they are fantastic! The lights are quite bright and there was no noticable difference in flight times on either plane.
Tres Wright is offline Find More Posts by Tres Wright
Last edited by Tres Wright; Jan 26, 2012 at 01:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:52 PM
Gravity is a cruel mistress...
Blucross's Avatar
United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Mar 2011
724 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tres Wright View Post
Hey guys, for anyone interested, Jeffrey said he can make up some mQX LED kits before he leaves and get them shipped, but orders need to be placed by 02-04-12. He's going to close his shop on the 5th and won't process orders again until the end of April. Here is the kit I requested from him:

2 blue LEDs on 3-1/2" leads
2 white LEDs on 3-1/2" leads
1 red LED on 2" lead
No connector (connect all the above and tie to 3-1/2" leads that I'll solder into the bat leads)

See this thread for info on contacting him (see post 153 and 157):

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post20546077

I have examined the mQX board and if you look at where the batt leads solder to the board, look underneath and you will see that those leads extend under the board and have two convenient blobs of solder there. I am thinking this will be an ideal place to solder the light kit leads to with little to no risk of harming the board since all the components are on top. But I've sized the leads long enough that the batt lead can be cut and they can be soldered there for those who are uncomfortable soldering on the board. Another option is to buy a male and female JST plug, make an extension and wire your lights into the extension. That might help people who don't like plugging in the short existing batt lead. Note that the 3-1/2" leads I've requested will not allow you to mount the LEDs all the way out on the motor mount. The reason for this is twice I've crashed my mQX and had an entire motor pod come unplugged and pop off the boom. If you mount an LED out there and that happens then the LED will likely rip off the wires. I plan on mounting the LEDs to the booms just before the motor mounts. I will probably point them up as this will project light onto the props and hopefully help with flying in total darkness, but they can also be placed on bottom.

I fly in "X" config and plan on installing the two white lights on the front booms and the blue lights on the back booms. The red light will be underneath the frame as an additional assist with orientation. It shouldn't be mounted to the body because the body usually pops off in a crash.

Jeffrey can do custom colors and wire lengths if you want something different than what I listed. I'm not sure if he'll have time to do a bunch of custom runs since he's leaving soon, but you can check with him.

When I get my set I'll do a full installation guide with photos

PS- I've installed his light sets on my micro Stryker and Sbach and they are fantastic! The lights are quite bright and there was no noticable difference in flight times on either plane.
I PM'd him early this morning asking if he would be able to make a set using the dimensions you posted in the other thread. I'm glad to see he is going to do a run of them!

I told him I was perfectly fine with the colors and lengths you mentioned. Works fine for me! I'll share pics and a short video when they arrive as well.
Blucross is offline Find More Posts by Blucross
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:56 PM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
15,165 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarhsi View Post
Turns out I have two spare mSR motors. What's the best way to swap pinions? I know I've seen micro gear pullers, but how do you press a pinion back on without putting too much stress on the back of the motor?
I've done a zillion pinion presses onto GWS IPS motors, I always used a vise to do it. I imagine a C-clamp would work OK too. The important thing is to brace against the end bell or the shaft will just punch right through it (learned that the hard way!) So the end bell should be against one jaw and the pinion (pushed against the shaft) on the other, then just slowly clamp and make sure the pinion is going on straight. Drive it on until the vice bottoms out against the shaft. If it needs to go on farther than that you can use a spacer (thick washer or similar) as long as the hole in the spacer is bigger than the shaft but smaller than the pinion.
Tres Wright is offline Find More Posts by Tres Wright
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:21 PM
Suspended Account
Joined Jan 2012
111 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tres Wright View Post
I've done a zillion pinion presses onto GWS IPS motors, I always used a vise to do it. I imagine a C-clamp would work OK too. The important thing is to brace against the end bell or the shaft will just punch right through it (learned that the hard way!) So the end bell should be against one jaw and the pinion (pushed against the shaft) on the other, then just slowly clamp and make sure the pinion is going on straight. Drive it on until the vice bottoms out against the shaft. If it needs to go on farther than that you can use a spacer (thick washer or similar) as long as the hole in the spacer is bigger than the shaft but smaller than the pinion.
Thanks! I figured a vice or clamp would to it, but I was still afraid of breaking the plastic end bell or punching the shaft right through it until it was flush with that side of the vice/clamp. I'd imagine that would crack the end bell right down the middle.
dbarhsi is offline Find More Posts by dbarhsi
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:39 PM
Rocket Programmer
jasmine2501's Avatar
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2007
25,354 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3m1s1s View Post
not quite quads work by spinning motors in pairs so increase in power to 2 motors will have an euqual but oposite effect on the other 2 motors what does this mean?

in plus to flip you speed up ONE motor and slow down ONE motor and the other 2 motors in effect become balastor dead weight but worse stillthey have props that are spinning but adding NOTHING to the power needed to do a flip so in plus mode you only used half of the quads full potential to flip, logical yes?

now consider X while 2 motors speed up the other 2 motors slow down now my physics works that out as 4x the power of plus? ie if 2 motors are speeding to add positive pitch while 2 motors are taking away positive pitch at the same time dont you get to rorate at at least 2 times the speed? you are doubling your thrust from ONE half of the axis while HALFING the thrust on the other half of the same axis

see my point?
Yeah I see what you're saying but it doesn't explain what we're seeing!

Quote:
Originally Posted by docinfrance View Post
I hate to do this to you guys after you've done all this math but it doesn't take into account the power draw of the motors on a single cell and that cell's amperage.
You can also throw in motor acceleration.
It may well be that in + configuration a single motor accelerates faster and is able to draw more power then 2 motors in X.
Then start throwing in how much charge the battery has and higher C batteries and people are going to have different experiences.
See, that kinda explains what we are seeing. I won't accept any theories that say we shouldn't be seeing what we are seeing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarhsi View Post
Anyone notice theirs getting a lot more unstable as a flight goes on? I realize the voltage drops off, but I'm not running down to even 80% discharged, much less LVC. I'm only putting about 350mAh back into 550mAh batteries, but the last minute or two shows the thing to be a lot less stable than at the start of a battery, especially in the side-to-side axis.
Sure yeah, it needs power to maneuver, and when the voltage is lower, the motors take longer to accelerate, so the gyro can't correct a drift as quickly. After a certain threshold, the delay becomes long enough for you to notice it. The delay is always there though - it's just with a full battery, it's fast enough that you don't really notice it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darksmile View Post
I havenīt tested it out, because my lack of knowledge, but i saw a nice video of the mQX with flashing LEDīs. Great Fun
Post the video or it didn't happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tres Wright View Post
I fly in "X" config and plan on installing the two white lights on the front booms and the blue lights on the back booms.
I did two blue ones in front and two green ones in back, aiming upward at the props, taped to the booms. It looks ok, but the green shining on the black props is not very bright. I used two CR2032 batteries and a holder - but I think with green and red LEDs, I could do it with one CR2032, or a 1S Lipo.

Do these kits run on 1S Lipo? Where did he find white LEDs that stay lit? Or does it shut off at 3.6V?

I'll try to post a video of my setup tonight, but I'm not sure I really like it. I would like to be able to stick the power supply up in the canopy, but the 2 CR2032s won't fit with the holder. Running from a 1S Lipo like an mSR battery would be great.
jasmine2501 is offline Find More Posts by jasmine2501
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:44 PM
Suspended Account
United States, FL, Maitland
Joined Apr 2011
2,109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by huskerfreak View Post
I think the spots in the squares in the picture would be the place for leds
try macro focus next time

did you measure the output with a multimeter? i would put a 47uF capacitor between +vcc and GND just in case there is some ripple.

A better solution is to make a voltage follower from lm358 that way you know it won't be drawing current from something that needs it
chatch15117 is offline Find More Posts by chatch15117
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sold BNF PZ J3 Cub, BNF PZ P-51D Mustang, Blade mSR RTF & DX6i nyaaah!! Aircraft - Electric - Micro & Indoor Airplanes (FS/W) 11 Oct 06, 2011 11:21 AM
For Sale New Blade 400 RTF Will sell as BNF papower Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 8 Aug 04, 2011 12:28 PM
Sold ON HOLD....FS/WTT Like New (RTF) Heli-Max AXE CPv3 For Like New (BNF) Blade mCP X ABADGTP Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 0 Jul 26, 2011 07:22 PM
Sold Blade MCX2 Like New RTF or BNF tamiyafan1975 Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 1 Jul 14, 2011 03:39 PM
Sold Blade mCPX RTF or BNF (factory sealed new in box) PatternFlyer Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 5 Mar 28, 2011 03:25 PM