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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:43 PM
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Weren't you trying to have some residual unbalance??

Why run it 40 times? It only takes 4...
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:43 PM
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I'm looking for a picture of someone beating a dead horse.... can you help me....
Post a video of your process... its got to be bias or operator error Or you just have crap abused phones....

You seem stuck on this... Smart phones are evil.... the apps are crap... don't care what the many ways many are using them, its all crap... if its not Scottish its....

Feel better?

I guess you believe if You say it enough it must be right. But then who said you were wrong to begin with or is it again you completely missed to boat on how its to be applied.... but I guess I should get used to that..........

How does it compare to a Dubro attempt at static balancing? Or did you even try that in your too much time on your hands pursuit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
My Su fans are 'singing' along perfectly! No reverberations etc.
After getting one down to 2m/s/s by smart phone, and the other about 5m/s/s (or was it 7m/s/s?) which is not good enough - but was also a 'phone lie' as when I did it purely by hand to be perfect, the Insider Pro App (and three other Accel Apps) all showed 5 to 10m/s/s yet it was as smooth as silk!
This showed that even the 2m/s/s was probably rubbish - not that it wasn't actually as smooth as silk, but that the phone could easily have still said ANY value anyway. As per the 2nd fan shows a large vibration value but it is really perfect.

Further 90mm testing showed the phone method to be erratic and flawed.
Whether in my 'super finely sprung' alloy balancer unit, or in a wood based one, or in a plane..
So in-hand (just by touch/feel) proved to be just as good, and better, anyway.

Hopefully the Dynex Vortex uses appropriate sensors and filtering to do the job properly. Because having a strobe and maths to show precise placement and weight amount will be far quicker and more accurate than 'clocking around' fans and re-testing 40 times!

The big issue with 'clocking' is that it is not going to give you a perfect result unless the static imbalance in the rotor EXACTLY matches what the motor/shaft offset needs. If those are not dead equal (so the best position can cancel them out perfectly) then all it can do is get you to the least vibration possible in that combination of all items.
Quite often (nearly always) those item imbalances will NOT be totally removable, because of them being inequal. And guesstimating - changing the rotor imbalance usually - to find that best equalibrium, is very time consuming.

Most people don't even know what to truly do! And why, or how.
Thus a 'lay-person' suited unit is more useful to the general user base.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:12 PM
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Rubber washers etc are never going to work..... the foam will still reverberate. You need a solid surface - the fan - against the foam.
That will 'run out' over X amount of distance, but hep tons before that happens. And generally reduces reverberations to near zero, or totally. Most aircraft have enough 'strength' by the time the local area 'strength' of the fan against it, runs out.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Rubber washers etc are never going to work......
so Schübeler has no business putting them on their fans....they're just dumbies

You could put a sliver of silicon on the bracket mount if you're so set on your method....or even silicon on the rubber
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:31 PM
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No, they are not mounting into foamies. In a composite you can do it 'in air' more successfully. Plus that is a perfect running fan... which almost no chesper ones are.
Irrelevant example...
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:31 PM
Life begins at transition
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Better tell Stu too...
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:41 PM
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Odysis, you must have missed the gist of getting a highly accurate fan balance....
You can NOT do it in "4 goes".
To do so you would have to have the perfect rotor imbalance to offset the rest of imbalances (motor/shaft) from that very first "4 go" attempt.

Seeing it is impossible to measure the exact imbalance difference without a sensor you will need X amount of guess attempts.

I start with a perfect static balance... IN CASE the amazing happens and the motor/shaft imbalances are zero too. We can always live in hope..... LOL
Another reason to static balance is so that at least you don't have some WAY out of whack rotor on your bendable motor shaft!!

So now you have to clock that....
The chances of clocking it perfectly first go is about.. zero....
The chances of it being perfect at the next position of 180deg... also about zero....
By test 3 or 4 you will be getting to know the better approx area. Neither of those are going to be perfect either really....
More so is that you can't possibly even KNOW what 'perfect' can be yet. Only by passing through it, and coming back to it.
I clock down to 16ths....

If your rotor imbalance does NOT match the motor/shaft imbalances, then you can NEVER get it perfect.... there is no position that can ever be perfect in that case.
So you decide how good it is..... if not 'good enough', I remove a bit of my static balance weight and do the whole process down to "16ths" again.

The chances of a well static balanced rotor matching the motor/shaft imbalance is a 'very slim' one. The chances of your next guesstimation being correct.. also very slim. And so on.....
But you can get there.....

I can clock my "down to 16th's" run within minutes (2 or 3?). Removing a rotor to adjust balance weight.... 1 minute (or could be less really).... but it still adds up to a LOT of adjustments and tests.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
so Schübeler has no business putting them on their fans....they're just dumbies

You could put a sliver of silicon on the bracket mount if you're so set on your method....or even silicon on the rubber
I was reading your post on other thread on the XT150, just got 2 bags of em-- does it matter which direction you snap jacket form? Do you slide on wire then solder or can you snap from both directions?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 02:34 AM
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I was reading your post on other thread on the XT150, just got 2 bags of em-- does it matter which direction you snap jacket form? Do you slide on wire then solder or can you snap from both directions?
Solder wire to bullet separately, then once cooled, I found it best to put a male and female sleeve together and snap the soldered bullet into which ever end, the male or female, that you wanted it in.

The order of male female, and jackets depends on parallel, series but generally its up to you to set a pattern that prevents you from dead shorting. If necessary, lock two leads together like a Dean or EC5.

I've never come close to shorting because before I fully strap the batt in, I start, ESC Blue Jacket Red wire to Batt RedJ RedW, Anti spark, BlackJ/W Batt to BlueJ BlackW ESC. Because I already have the one side connected I can't dead short.
If I'm doing series, I connect the batteries first, black to red, and then use remaining leads as above as if one battery.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:48 AM
Scott
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Originally Posted by ican3d View Post
Can i run a single pack 5s 4000mah 35c lipo on Hobby King version of Su-35? I don't plan to do 3D just mild acrobatics. Will it give enough thrust to bail out of stall? What is expected runtime?
I think your main concern would be getting it off the ground on 5s. On a zippy 6s 4500mah 45c. It draws about 90amps and takes aprox 40m to get off the ground on a fairly smooth dirt/grass runway. I could do an amp/watt test with a 5s 3000mah as I have one if you are really keen to know the draw. (Let me know). I think once in the air you probably would be fine as I fly around on low throttle most of the time (below the max power of your 5s). I think you'd get sick of it and want to buy a 6s pretty quickly though. But beware it will need a hell of a run up as it feels welded to the ground even on 6s on a grass strip. I would imagine you'd get around 4mins on that battery as a guide.

However I have done a similar thing with the hobbyking hawker hunter 70mm 6s. A lot of people said the stock motor burnt out on the recomended 6s so I thought I'd try a 5s instead. Most people on this rc groups told me it wouldn't get off the ground. However it flies around quite nicely with a reasonable amount of thrust no problems. But in saying that, I'm wantin to try 6s for more power now and hope the motor holds.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:41 AM
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Raise the static AoA stance and it will take off much sooner and easier.
Mine had negative AoA stance in stock form..... I can't see any reason that is not how they all are, as I had done nothing to retracts/wheels etc by that stage.

You can lift the nose by 13mm approx and have no issue with any nose gear aspect. Just put spacers under the retract and use longer screws.
I never tried grass again, but I bet it helps that a LOT too.

I also had the main gear lowered when I changed all the oleo/wheels, and that gave a more notable AoA increase (just 5mm to 8mm sort of length), but I am not sure what I did exactly and ended up with them back to normal heights. I think I changed to a different main gear wheel set, so the first ones that were smaller diameter were the main height reduction source. The current main wheels are near stock diameter.
Even with that higher AoA stance at that time it still looked all correct sitting on the ground (eg it is not a 10deg gain! LOL).... you can't see that much of an angle change and have no reference to say it could be wrong anyway. If anything it looked more like you would expect they would want the plane to sit as the cockpit nose area is more towards level, with the main wing region having the slight positive AoA then.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Whiskey Whiskey View Post
Maybe it's proving too difficult to imbalance his fans by hand.
Actually, that's extremely EASY to do, and costs WAYYYY less than $100!!

All you need is a hammer and a chisel...................
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
I'm looking for a picture of someone beating a dead horse.... can you help me....
Here ya go, Max......................

Beating A Dead Horse (1 min 29 sec)


And here:

http://www.southparkstudios.com/clip...g-a-dead-horse

Besides, WHO would EVER want perfectly balanced fans, with NO vibration????.......
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:49 AM
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Peter,

You have already openly declared that "I actually don't like hearing a 'perfect' running fan. They are too clean and sewing machine like!!"

So why do you keep lecturing us, about a topic that is completely irrelevant to you?????
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:01 AM
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Max,

You mention in one of your above posts, an 'anti-spark' connection..........

Is there some type of adapter that will do this (I'm not comfortable with always getting that sparking)???
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