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Old Feb 17, 2013, 04:52 PM
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You can take your Su out of the box, screw it together and fly it just as it comes!!
But..... take its box with you to collect all the parts back into!!
At least you won't need to unscrew it...... and you might only need a box half as big too really!
LOL

CHINA
CHEAP

That explains why you can't fly them as they come..... not if you want them to perform properly, and long term... and SAFELY.

As to how much time and effort you spend on them, rather than just fly them in their 'imperfect' stock state.... well that is up to how 'perfect;' you want it to be.

If they came truly ready to fly, the price would be at least double.....
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
I got the Dynex because the Dynex costs me ZERO time.....
Building my more detailed one would take 20hours+ (though it would be far better).
I don't care about $ really... TIME is more valuable. $150 is nothing.
But I do anything myself that needs that for it to be done properly - so time is worth using for those things. Unless an item can be bought that does a pretty good job - or it can be improved (not so bad a design it is hopeless) - I do it myself, from scratch.

The Dynex also has potential to USE as a base unit (hardware) for a better balancer - I can just run it into my own software instead, and then have that 'fully automated' GUI display..... just not two plane (which I think is probably not totally necessary to achieve a great balance anyway). So it has future possibilities I saw in it too.

If required in the end, I will make a two plane balancer.... more for interest than totally necessary, as I don't really have any great fan issues anyway. When I NEED something I DO IT, pretty well immediately... so not having started anything on a two plane balancer shows me that I don't consider it important, so far.... not important enough to do more than just notes and drawing ideas etc so far.
I would never make one to sell..... I have had a few manufacturing / programming based businesses in the past (For Commodore Amiga and then PC's - hardware and software) and am not interested in the effort/demands of that sort of thing anymore. Now I do such things just for rmy own use.
Peter,

I think that you're just blowing smoke up our 's!!!!!!!...............................

P.S. Sorry, if I have offended you...................
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
I gotta agree tape or silicon is. Heck id even use plumming straps before making tabs.

A very light one...
Do you think that it will be strong enough??????
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by davemilw07 View Post
Do you think that it will be strong enough??????
It was sarcasm, but ya it would most likely work if you could get it snug enough.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:07 PM
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Not to give the wrong impression, the silicon Mark uses is for bonding metal to metal. Itts not the ordinary silicon.

I would use that if for some reason I needed to add Tabs.
But what ever....
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:36 PM
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Can i run a single pack 5s 4000mah 35c lipo on Hobby King version of Su-35? I don't plan to do 3D just mild acrobatics. Will it give enough thrust to bail out of stall? What is expected runtime?
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:39 PM
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my opinion doesn't probably amount for squat anymore since I'm getting out of the hobby.... but you can trust me when I say that the silicone will hold the unit in just fine and when you need to take it out you won't be pulling on any foam.A nice firm tug with a rolling motion will pop it out without pulling up any foam. and you only need it on one side... the side i used the velcro was for easy access to the units... and that side is bolted down anyway... simple... i know my silicone method may not be conventional... but it worked just fine!!
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 07:34 PM
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my opinion doesn't probably amount for squat anymore since I'm getting out of the hobby.... but you can trust me when I say that the silicone will hold the unit in just fine and when you need to take it out you won't be pulling on any foam.A nice firm tug with a rolling motion will pop it out without pulling up any foam. and you only need it on one side... the side i used the velcro was for easy access to the units... and that side is bolted down anyway... simple... i know my silicone method may not be conventional... but it worked just fine!!
jk, if you don't mind me asking, why you getting out?
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by davemilw07 View Post
Peter,

I think that you're just blowing smoke up our 's!!!!!!!...............................
Concur.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by davemilw07 View Post
Pete,

WHY are you getting the Dynex unit to begin with?????

You have already told us how CHEAP and EASY it is to do yourself.........
Maybe it's proving too difficult to imbalance his fans by hand.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jk671 View Post
my opinion doesn't probably amount for squat anymore since I'm getting out of the hobby.... but you can trust me when I say that the silicone will hold the unit in just fine and when you need to take it out you won't be pulling on any foam.A nice firm tug with a rolling motion will pop it out without pulling up any foam. and you only need it on one side... the side i used the velcro was for easy access to the units... and that side is bolted down anyway... simple... i know my silicone method may not be conventional... but it worked just fine!!
JK.... I would not apply silicon to foam because theres really no need. Never said that. The aluminium brackets that ExtremeRC sells is adhered with, "We recommend Dow Corning 744 silicon, or 3145 MilSpec silicon. You can also use high strength clear silicon made for holding glass up, fishtanks etc, its strong stuff too!".

I just noticed he must have made smaller ones for 64, 70, 80 and 90s now.... I guess for those who have an aversion to double sided... he's an opportunist

I think the trouble here is some keep thinking how they would apply it rather than what is actually being said. The silicon isn't for mounting the EDF. Its for adhering the bracket to the housing. If the housing is too small to use double sided tape, a tab or bracket is a given. But its just as easy to use twine or thin straps of stainless steel sold at any LHS.
Been working great for many for several years.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:10 PM
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Well you can't beat flanges and something bolted in properly! (even the Su, and tons of other EDF jets, comes with that)
And as I have mentioned before.... coat the fan in vaseline/grease and make a thin bed of silicone for dampening - not to hold it in at all. It will spread when you bolt the fan in and form a nice soft 'deadener', to reduce/remove reverberations. (other things can make those occur too though)
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ican3d View Post
Can i run a single pack 5s 4000mah 35c lipo on Hobby King version of Su-35? I don't plan to do 3D just mild acrobatics. Will it give enough thrust to bail out of stall? What is expected runtime?
The HK units are no different than any others.
The motor that Freewing sells these with are 2849 posted as 2200kv motors.
Quick guess is yes it will fly much like the Non 3D version.
6S ~21V X 2200kv = 46200 rpm. most were getting 2.8kg of thrust with this.
5S ~ 17.5V X 2200kv = 38500 rpm which is 83.3% less than stock.

83.3% of 2.8kg is ~2.3kg thrust. So rough guess the change in rpm isn't linear to thrust but as a ball park estimate;
5S is likely a 100g or more lighter so it should be able to fly.

The issue is take off. You'd need more runway and if off grass, may not leave the ground. Some have trouble with even stock thrust.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:25 PM
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My Su fans are 'singing' along perfectly! No reverberations etc.
After getting one down to 2m/s/s by smart phone, and the other about 5m/s/s (or was it 7m/s/s?) which is not good enough - but was also a 'phone lie' as when I did it purely by hand to be perfect, the Insider Pro App (and three other Accel Apps) all showed 5 to 10m/s/s yet it was as smooth as silk!
This showed that even the 2m/s/s was probably rubbish - not that it wasn't actually as smooth as silk, but that the phone could easily have still said ANY value anyway. As per the 2nd fan shows a large vibration value but it is really perfect.

Further 90mm testing showed the phone method to be erratic and flawed.
Whether in my 'super finely sprung' alloy balancer unit, or in a wood based one, or in a plane..
So in-hand (just by touch/feel) proved to be just as good, and better, anyway.

Hopefully the Dynex Vortex uses appropriate sensors and filtering to do the job properly. Because having a strobe and maths to show precise placement and weight amount will be far quicker and more accurate than 'clocking around' fans and re-testing 40 times!

The big issue with 'clocking' is that it is not going to give you a perfect result unless the static imbalance in the rotor EXACTLY matches what the motor/shaft offset needs. If those are not dead equal (so the best position can cancel them out perfectly) then all it can do is get you to the least vibration possible in that combination of all items.
Quite often (nearly always) those item imbalances will NOT be totally removable, because of them being inequal. And guesstimating - changing the rotor imbalance usually - to find that best equalibrium, is very time consuming.

Most people don't even know what to truly do! And why, or how.
Thus a 'lay-person' suited unit is more useful to the general user base.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Well you can't beat flanges and something bolted in properly! (even the Su, and tons of other EDF jets, comes with that)
And as I have mentioned before.... coat the fan in vaseline/grease and make a thin bed of silicone for dampening - not to hold it in at all. It will spread when you bolt the fan in and form a nice soft 'deadener', to reduce/remove reverberations. (other things can make those occur too though)
Wouldn't you just put rubber washers on the brackets/Tabs/flanges and leave a dead space to translate no vibration?
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