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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:37 PM
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Ha....Haa .... a? ... ha ha.... Bet you can't figure out the force it generates from CG155
Quote:
Originally Posted by DamonH View Post
You should probably cg with canopy on as well. All the canpoy weight if forward of cg.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
I have no idea of your setup or skills; so I can't answer that. It wasn't problematic but then you could still just being measuring it incorrectly. Post a pic cause it shouldn't be that hard.

Just read your next post??? why so high on the motor side. Yes that will add plenty in the tail and this being a Y only sees partial loading. Its why the gauge on the motor wires are always less. The battery is supplying the full load and is the side that needs the heavy gauge.

Man I thought I was heavy with 12 gauge. Stock is 14 so... ya heavy in the tail
In hind sight yeah I wasn't thinking on using the 10AWG, I will re do with 14AWG--here's a pic of bottom and the marks, the 2 closest the intake are correct 145-155mm, the rear marks are my incorrect ones-- disregard
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Wargassm View Post
Then the engine weight is more than stated, Did you use epoxy to glue in the foam around the housing?

Did you add ANYTHING to the rear? different servos? ESC maybe?

How about the batteries, are they really 440 grams? Thats allot of weight for one battery. 3s? 3s x5000? What brand of battery are you using?

How about battery weight, the entire length. is it heavier on one side vs the other? Is the metal plate in the front of the battery? where the battery connects to esc?
I think the ARC 28581s are 153g, no glue in rear at all..did not add ANYTHING to rear, but I did mistakenly use 10AWG from ESCs to motors, correcting that now! NO alum. plate is on retract bay and under batts, so would not add tail weight...
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:44 PM
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Actually Pete. He has the battery side fine. It is an X. When I said Y it was in reference to brushless Y motor and his use of 10AWG for that long span, 6x 130mm 10 gauge wire.
Because its a Y each wire only sees partial duty so the gauge is less. So theres not reason to wonder why he's heavy in the tail. That's plenty right there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
ITTD, I don't recall seeing it along the way in your layout but.....

If you use dual batteries in parallel, you should use an "X" in the wiring so they are then "pooled" before heading to each ESC.
Basically two "Y"s....
Two leads to the battery side..... two leads to the ESC side.... on big joint of the two "Y"s together.
There will still only be two connectors used.... which only need to be the size required to carry the current (Amps) of one motor side, as each battery is still just feeding its 'one motor worth' to the "X" point anyway.

Not wire it as just one battery per ESC.

So I am not sure which way you did it, but have the "X" way!

This assures the voltage to both ESC's is identical, and also that one side can't go flat/LVC - due to its battery - before the other side. Plus equalises load over both batteries. And also means if one battery does drop a cell or something, there is still good power to both motors anyway.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
ITTD, I don't recall seeing it along the way in your layout but.....

If you use dual batteries in parallel, you should use an "X" in the wiring so they are then "pooled" before heading to each ESC.
Basically two "Y"s....
Two leads to the battery side..... two leads to the ESC side.... on big joint of the two "Y"s together.
There will still only be two connectors used.... which only need to be the size required to carry the current (Amps) of one motor side, as each battery is still just feeding its 'one motor worth' to the "X" point anyway.

Not wire it as just one battery per ESC.

So I am not sure which way you did it, but have the "X" way!

This assures the voltage to both ESC's is identical, and also that one side can't go flat/LVC - due to its battery - before the other side. Plus equalises load over both batteries. And also means if one battery does drop a cell or something, there is still good power to both motors anyway.
Peter I did X the wiring from batts to ESCs, but from ESCs to motor I mistakenly used 6 wires all 10AWG instead of 12 or 14AWG...that must be at least an extra 200-300g!!
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wargassm View Post
Then the engine weight is more than stated, Did you use epoxy to glue in the foam around the housing?

Did you add ANYTHING to the rear? different servos? ESC maybe?

How about the batteries, are they really 440 grams? Thats allot of weight for one battery. 3s? 3s x5000? What brand of battery are you using?

How about battery weight, the entire length. is it heavier on one side vs the other? Is the metal plate in the front of the battery? where the battery connects to esc?
Btw I'm using 2 x 4s in parallel, 2 4s 3700mAh batts, each one 440g, when I bought them the site had a weight of 397g, it was an error, now corrected, but I got stuck with my 2 440g batts!
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntheTubeDeep View Post
In hind sight yeah I wasn't thinking on using the 10AWG, I will re do with 14AWG--....
Ah, well, 14awg is under, 10 awg is over. You have a hot setup redlining he 2858-1 and that is a long enough span to warrant 12 awg.

And everyone is answering you based on what you told them. Had you said earlier you were using such a heavy gauge they'd look to that than everything else.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Ah, well, 14awg is under, 10 awg is over. You have a hot setup redlining he 2858-1 and that is a long enough span to warrant 12 awg.

And everyone is answering you based on what you told them. Had you said earlier you were using such a heavy gauge they'd look to that than everything else.
You know I'm in luck, I have no 14AWG but have enough 12AWG, so will trim some of that excessive weight off, will post how much extra weight that 10AWG caused..
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Ah, well, 14awg is under, 10 awg is over. You have a hot setup redlining he 2858-1 and that is a long enough span to warrant 12 awg.

And everyone is answering you based on what you told them. Had you said earlier you were using such a heavy gauge they'd look to that than everything else.
yep I would also use 12awg
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 05:45 PM
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Or do some more mods up front.... LOL
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 05:47 PM
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1) Cockpit canopy slider mod

2) Real minigun mod

3) Real phased array radar system mod.
I personally don't like this one much as you don't actually SEE anything! Though.... if you did the "hinged nose cone mod" also.....
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Ha....Haa .... a? ... ha ha.... Bet you can't figure out the force it generates from CG155
Lol....no way I would make that bet. I would bet on you being able to do it though
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
1) Cockpit canopy slider mod

2) Real minigun mod

3) Real phased array radar system mod.
I personally don't like this one much as you don't actually SEE anything! Though.... if you did the "hinged nose cone mod" also.....
I was about to suggest a phased array radar, or a tracking system to find the pilot after he ejects Ok, I swapped out the 10awg for 12, weight of 6 10awg was 96g, 6 12awg 60g, saved 36g, but its still heavy in the tail-- I'm out of ideas, but I'm at 155mm with batts almost fully forward so enough is enough, my next vid will be maiden weather permitting, we have chance of showers this week so knock on wood!
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 06:29 PM
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Ahhh... the "Pilot ejection seat mod" !! Forgot that one....
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 06:29 PM
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Are you doing CG with wheels up or down. I do mine with them up seeing that they all swing forwards during flight thus shifting the CG. If doing in down position then I get it spot on so in flight I go slightly nose heavy which is fine on this model.

It seems to me with all the mods you made up front that you should be more forward than rear CG? I've added all kinds of crap to mine and never bothered even checking the CG after the initial setup. Granted I did not do all the mods in one go so had chance to fly between upgrades. I have found myself shifting my Zippy 5000 40 c at about 830 grams to the rear bit by bit and it flys awesome.
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