Originally Posted by Whiskey Whiskey

If that isn't the issue, I suspect your ESC can't handle the amount of RPM that the motor is trying to turn at. If the pulsing sound is not what you were trying to get at, then disregard my message.

On second thought, there could be an ESC timing advance and/or PWM setting issue as well.

I forgot to add that the wires after connector between batts and ESC were VERY HOT, like almost smokin hot, and my cyclone programming card has no options on PWM unfortunately

Originally Posted by IntheTubeDeep

v8 what you think of these?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._5_pairs_.html

I swapped out all my 4, 6s with these

I use the XT90 in my SU-35 and don't have a problem. They are just 5mm bullets in a handy case. They are rated at 90amps +. My stock SU pulls 90amps at WOT. Connectors are cool and seem fine.

ITTD I not familiar with the Volt reader that you were using. Do you have an actual Watt meter. The other numbers may give a clue. Too you could be reaching the heat cutout but you may need to change the timing to lower.

But why are you surprised. This is what we warned pushing 4S this hard. It gets more finicky and harder to get it to settle. Even if you fix the timing, high amp=heat. Standard in an electrical panel, 100 amps would be specs to 2 AWG. So you get heat with 10. Its commonly used this way but you kind a need a heat gun to tell us if hot is concerning or just a heat generator of waisted mAh.

Originally Posted by wigsw001

I use the XT90 in my SU-35 and don't have a problem. They are just 5mm bullets in a handy case. They are rated at 90amps +. My stock SU pulls 90amps at WOT. Connectors are cool and seem fine.

Trouble as we've said is these same batteries can be used on higher power demands but you limited yourself by adding a just enough connector.

There is no harm in even going to a 8mm connector so why do just enough?
May as well standardize with a larger connector for a wider range of uses with all you systems.

I skipped the "90A area connectors", because they are smack dead in the middle of a wide range of your typical uses for 6S/7S. Larger planes running 80A to 120A areas....
So you are better off picking your own 'standard', eg XT150, that can do anything across that whole range (80A - 120A, and more really)
So I picked XT150 for all 6S & 7S uses. (Would be for 8S single battery also, but I have none for now)

Under that I use HXT4mm for ALL 5S uses - which even in twins that can use towards 100A total I use battery pairs, thus only half the Amps per battery and its lead anyway
And then XT60 for ALL 4S & 3S uses.

Originally Posted by Maxthrottle

ITTD I not familiar with the Volt reader that you were using. Do you have an actual Watt meter. The other numbers may give a clue. Too you could be reaching the heat cutout but you may need to change the timing to lower.

But why are you surprised. This is what we warned pushing 4S this hard. It gets more finicky and harder to get it to settle. Even if you fix the timing, high amp=heat. Standard in an electrical panel, 100 amps would be specs to 2 AWG. So you get heat with 10. Its commonly used this way but you kind a need a heat gun to tell us if hot is concerning or just a heat generator of waisted mAh.

Max I had a Watts Up meter but it fried on 2nd test- I have video of the numbers(amps watts etc will upload tomorrow- and yeah a little surprised, maybe I underestimated the power consumption of the ARC motors? It's my first high end motor I've bought

Originally Posted by Maxthrottle

ITTD I not familiar with the Volt reader that you were using. Do you have an actual Watt meter. The other numbers may give a clue. Too you could be reaching the heat cutout but you may need to change the timing to lower.

But why are you surprised. This is what we warned pushing 4S this hard. It gets more finicky and harder to get it to settle. Even if you fix the timing, high amp=heat. Standard in an electrical panel, 100 amps would be specs to 2 AWG. So you get heat with 10. Its commonly used this way but you kind a need a heat gun to tell us if hot is concerning or just a heat generator of waisted mAh.

Btw that was just a cell voltage meter from HK

Does this model share the same thrust vectoring as the su-34. full 36 degrees mixed or just up down, left right?
I used to fly prop. This would be my first edf jet. Is that a good idea?
Where can I buy the 3d sport model, hobbyking?
A mixed between fly time and performance battery would be a 5000 mah 45c or something lighter?

Sorry for the novice questions, thank you
Amazing forum btw.. lots of info

Originally Posted by apiazza2010

Does this model share the same thrust vectoring as the su-34. full 36 degrees mixed or just up down, left right?
I used to fly prop. This would be my first edf jet. Is that a good idea?
Where can I buy the 3d sport model, hobbyking?
A mixed between fly time and performance battery would be a 5000 mah 45c or something lighter?

Sorry for the novice questions, thank you
Amazing forum btw.. lots of info

Yeah it's full 360 thrust vectoring: rudder, elevator and alierons. You need 8ch to be able to turn them on and off individually which is recommended. I fly with a 6ch though.

I think this as a first edf is a bad idea. I'd try something cheaper and easier to fly without vectoring to begin with maybe a t-45 or l-39.

5000mah would be fine for a sport battery not sure about 3d but still should be okay. I run a 4500mah but haven't tried much vectoring yet. I bought the 6s 3d version from hobby king.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by wigs w001

Yeah it's full 360 thrust vectoring: rudder, elevator and ailerons. You need 8ch to be able to turn them on and off individually which is recommended. I fly with a 6ch though.

I think this as a first edf is a bad idea. I'd try something cheaper and easier to fly without vectoring to begin with maybe a t-45 or l-39.

5000mah would be fine for a sport battery not sure about 3d but still should be okay. I run a 4500mah but haven't tried much vectoring yet. I bought the 6s 3d version from hobby king.

Good luck.

You Could do what I plan to do and turn OFF the TV completely!

ITTD I/We should add Pete's concern for the bench test heating up is still valid.
If/when I do run mine, I put the ESC and Battery aft of the EDF to maintain some form of cooling. That's why I said put a fan on it.
Your setup is expected to run even hotter so....

Tube,

That long run up with no cooling on that high power 4s setup probably isn't helping. Then I see your running the XT90 connectors which may contribute to the bottle neck of current trying to pass. I know your adamant about using this setup, but u may continue to see heat as an issue.

LOL... what is actually RUNNING in that video?
One motor/fan? Two?
It sounds like NO fans.... but also not really like a motor alone.
There is no sound of airflow/fan at all really.

The volts are being maintained overly well by the looks.... suggesting not a lot of load.

so:
1) Is there actually fans and airflow, lol. I would assume YES. (not sure why it can't really be heard)
2) Was the airflow steady, or pulsing like the sound seems to be doing?
3) Are there two motors running.... and are they doing exactly the same, as far as you can tell?
4) How much airflow (thrust) does it feel like.... little... a lot....? And compared to the feel of the RPM.

I don't think it is any current supply problem. It would just run slower then. Not sound all weird like that.
Dry solder joints (eg to motor) don't sound like that... and would not occur in two motors - very unlikely.
I have never heard an ESC (especially if it is a pair) make a motor run like that (if it is them). But maybe you could have really out of whack Timing (thus the same set on both ESCs) and get that? I never have.
The voltage holding good value suggests not much load (power draw from the batteries).

I could imagine loose rotors ending up sounding like that......
A rotor slipping on the shaft adaptor, not totally loose, but fairly loose.
Though I would expect you have checked all that anyway. (or in original assembly).

Originally Posted by wigsw001

I use the XT90 in my SU-35 and don't have a problem. They are just 5mm bullets in a handy case. They are rated at 90amps +. My stock SU pulls 90amps at WOT. Connectors are cool and seem fine.

if you have stock gear and pulling 90amps then there is a problem. Mine has always pulled 2500w.

running @ 25.00v * current 90 = 2250 wats.

Since the beginning ( last Jan ) my su-35 was pulling: 25v * current 100 = 2500w.

90amp connector wont cut it, you need to increase it to a min 120a for safety. Last thing you want is to have a connector come off in flight.

Originally Posted by PeterVRC

LOL... what is actually RUNNING in that video?
One motor/fan? Two?
It sounds like NO fans.... but also not really like a motor alone.
There is no sound of airflow/fan at all really.

The volts are being maintained overly well by the looks.... suggesting not a lot of load.

so:
1) Is there actually fans and airflow, lol. I would assume YES. (not sure why it can't really be heard)
2) Was the airflow steady, or pulsing like the sound seems to be doing?
3) Are there two motors running.... and are they doing exactly the same, as far as you can tell?
4) How much airflow (thrust) does it feel like.... little... a lot....? And compared to the feel of the RPM.

I don't think it is any current supply problem. It would just run slower then. Not sound all weird like that.
Dry solder joints (eg to motor) don't sound like that... and would not occur in two motors - very unlikely.
I have never heard an ESC (especially if it is a pair) make a motor run like that (if it is them). But maybe you could have really out of whack Timing (thus the same set on both ESCs) and get that? I never have.
The voltage holding good value suggests not much load (power draw from the batteries).

I could imagine loose rotors ending up sounding like that......
A rotor slipping on the shaft adaptor, not totally loose, but fairly loose.
Though I would expect you have checked all that anyway. (or in original assembly).

Ok where to start, (I'm uploading the prior vid with the WATTS UP meter reading may take an hour)

1) YES fans were pushing a lot of air, I was holding plane with one hand, it had a lot of thrust!
2) YES steady air flow until that pulsating drop in output
3) Yes 2 motors running seemed equal, and did the same when power dropped
4) YEs it felt like a lot of thrust to me- especially at high THR briefly

I'm gonna check the fans this morning, I drilled hole in the shaft adapter so I could tighten the bolt holding the fan so I doubt it was loose fan, check out the vid I post in the next hour, might give more insight into whats going on