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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:06 PM
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The provided epoxy is stronger than cyano.... and since its not on critical items it doesn't have to be rock solid. Only the nose tail and wing tips are glued and that is if you intend to glue them rather than magnets etc.

Too No idea if the glues you show are Foam safe. Test it on the foam packaging before you put it near the model. Cyano usually melts foam and since you bought it, you'd be the best who knows which one you got.
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Originally Posted by goldsworthy View Post
SU35 build video question of the day!-
And if you're asking which side to put the glue on the fan.... you'll have a million questions before you're done. Take a look at threads discussing balancing an EDF in Jet talk the forum above this one. There are lots of ways to do it that have been discussed extensively even with video references.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
The provided epoxy is stronger than cyano.... and since its not on critical items it doesn't have to be rock solid. Only the nose tail and wing tips are glued and that is if you intend to glue them rather than magnets etc.

Too No idea if the glues you show are Foam safe. Test it on the foam packaging before you put it near the model. Cyano usually melts foam and since you bought it, you'd be the best who knows which one you got.

And if you're asking which side to put the glue on the fan.... you'll have a million questions before you're done. Take a look at threads discussing balancing an EDF in Jet talk the forum above this one. There are lots of ways to do it that have been discussed extensively even with video references.
That CA Evotite (blue silver package) from HK is Foam Safe, great product
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
The provided epoxy is stronger than cyano.... and since its not on critical items it doesn't have to be rock solid. Only the nose tail and wing tips are glued and that is if you intend to glue them rather than magnets etc.

Too No idea if the glues you show are Foam safe. Test it on the foam packaging before you put it near the model. Cyano usually melts foam and since you bought it, you'd be the best who knows which one you got.

And if you're asking which side to put the glue on the fan.... you'll have a million questions before you're done. Take a look at threads discussing balancing an EDF in Jet talk the forum above this one. There are lots of ways to do it that have been discussed extensively even with video references.
Here's an image of my DeviceSEL menu
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 02:18 PM
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That CA Evotite (blue silver package) from HK is Foam Safe, great product
K good to know he won't melt his model but I still don't see the need. They make real aircraft with epoxy not CA and the provided A/B works just fine; especially for the few minor parts.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 02:20 PM
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Here's an image of my DeviceSEL menu
That's the issue. All three in the middle, Flap, Aux2 and Aux3 should all be INT at the bottom unless you want these master switches active in which case you have to pair Aux2 & 3 to the same switch.
did you set the wing type to flapperon to cause the Flap Master to be active? You have ailerons on a Y so that won't work either.

I also can see you are not using the Aux2 or FMod switch to change your rates??????? You should change your FMOD switch to ACT with the flap switch. Then you change the trim to com for common that all trim steps rates and expo change to what ever preset rates and expo you have set for each stick or mix.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 02:23 PM
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Ya so under Aux2 you have the Aux2 Switch active. That now is master regardless of the other switches you've programmed. And same for Aux3 with the Aux3 Lever. It too is active. Change those to INT.
Cool thanks! I also noticed in my Mix Programs 1-6 I have Switch set to RUDD (Aux4), I'm guessing if I change that to AILE I can free up that Aux4/RUDD SWitch for the airbrake
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 02:44 PM
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That's the issue. All three in the middle, Flap, Aux2 and Aux3 should all be INT at the bottom unless you want these master switches active in which case you have to pair Aux2 & 3 to the same switch.
did you set the wing type to flapperon to cause the Flap Master to be active? You have ailerons on a Y so that won't work either.

I also can see you are not using the Aux2 or FMod switch to change your rates??????? You should change your FMOD switch to ACT with the flap switch. Then you change the trim to com for common that all trim steps rates and expo change to what ever preset rates and expo you have set for each stick or mix.
Yeah I don't know why I had that on the Aux2- I'm experimenting now, I got the TV to operate on the AILE switch ;-), now the airbrake is alone on Aux4! I just have to INH the FLAP/Aux2 and right side dial trim so they do not effect the trim on TV L, R, and Rudd
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Cool thanks! I also noticed in my Mix Programs 1-6 I have Switch set to RUDD (Aux4), I'm guessing if I change that to AILE I can free up that Aux4/RUDD SWitch for the airbrake
What channel is the air brake on? But yes if thats your preference.

Personnally I'd set all of the TV on/off on the mix switch, right back switch.

The air brake I would use the trainer button BUTN but either the AileD/R switch or the Rudd D/R switch will do. You're only engaging the brake when landing or on the ground so your left hand is more free to activate the brake via the button which is on or off.

But my bigger concern is what you've chosen are you rate/expo switch. Rather than using the individual Elv, Ail and Rudd for rates, change the FMod to Flap Switch and Trim: COM, D/R: FM. That will now allow 3 rate/expo options activated by the 3 position flap switch. You could make it Aux2 but I found crossing my hand from throttle to Aux2 tri switch unnecessary especially if you hand gets lost along the way.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 02:59 PM
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What channel is the air brake on? But yes if thats your preference.

Personnally I'd set all of the TV on/off on the mix switch, right back switch.

The air brake I would use the trainer button BUTN but either the AileD/R switch or the Rudd D/R switch will do. You're only engaging the brake when landing or on the ground so your left hand is more free to activate the brake via the button which is on or off.

But my bigger concern is what you've chosen are you rate/expo switch. Rather than using the individual Elv, Ail and Rudd for rates, change the FMod to Flap Switch and Trim: COM, D/R: FM. That will now allow 3 rate/expo options activated by the 3 position flap switch. You could make it Aux2 but I found crossing my hand from throttle to Aux2 tri switch unnecessary especially if you hand gets lost along the way.
Apologies for my ignorance but when you mention FMod which switch is that?
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 03:22 PM
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Yeah I don't know why I had that on the Aux2- I'm experimenting now, I got the TV to operate on the AILE switch ;-), now the airbrake is alone on Aux4! I just have to INH the FLAP/Aux2 and right side dial trim so they do not effect the trim on TV L, R, and Rudd
I think you're going the wrong direction on that.
Channel Aux2 and Aux3 are assigned to your TV left and right. Both of those should be inactive master switch's or INT so that they as master switches don't over ride what ever you chose to activate TV. You can share a common master switch like the left or right lever in which case you'd keep them active.

Aux 4 if for air brake, I would set master switch either the Aux2 tri switch or the trainer button. You still can use the rate switches Ail or Rudd if you prefer.

But what you don't want is to have your rate/expo switches both changing your rates and activating the brake. Because you may be flying and want to change your rates without activating your brake.

Thus my suggestion to activate the Flight Mode master switch to give you separate independent control of all 3 rate/expo options. That can be either the flap tri switch or the Aux2 tri switch.

Flap master switch needs to be inactive because you have the ailerons on a Y. When I first flew my trainer, I had flapperons. The buddy box couldn't set that function so that while flying, my instructor, though I told him and showed him, accidentally flipped the flap switch while holding the trainer button. So just as I was about to land, he let go of the trainer button and the ailerons went hard over because the flap switch was still active.

So on the Device panel, you have to INT Flap Aux2 and Aux3. Aux4 you can assign a master but if you are not going to assign rate/expo to Flight mode the you can not use Rudd D/R or Ail D/R to activate Aux4.

The only reason I don't show my settings is you have your model wired to factory settings. Mine, all surfaces have individual wires so I have active tailerons, flap sys>flapperon, mix>TV pitch/roll.

I got to get some work done but hope that helps you understand the differences.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 03:27 PM
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Apologies for my ignorance but when you mention FMod which switch is that?
The same screen you posted, go to Flight Mode and change it from INH to either flap or aux2. This will activate your flap tri switch or your aux2 tri switch as the switch that changes all or some (they are choosable) of your expo/rate settings.

Your flap switch has no function to you as flap because you have your Ails are a Y. So use the flap switch as your common FMode to trim and d/r. By doing this you are then free to use the individual rate switches how every you want to carry out functions without changing the rates.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 06:48 PM
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I think you're going the wrong direction on that.
Channel Aux2 and Aux3 are assigned to your TV left and right. Both of those should be inactive master switch's or INT so that they as master switches don't over ride what ever you chose to activate TV. You can share a common master switch like the left or right lever in which case you'd keep them active.

Aux 4 if for air brake, I would set master switch either the Aux2 tri switch or the trainer button. You still can use the rate switches Ail or Rudd if you prefer.

But what you don't want is to have your rate/expo switches both changing your rates and activating the brake. Because you may be flying and want to change your rates without activating your brake.

Thus my suggestion to activate the Flight Mode master switch to give you separate independent control of all 3 rate/expo options. That can be either the flap tri switch or the Aux2 tri switch.

Flap master switch needs to be inactive because you have the ailerons on a Y. When I first flew my trainer, I had flapperons. The buddy box couldn't set that function so that while flying, my instructor, though I told him and showed him, accidentally flipped the flap switch while holding the trainer button. So just as I was about to land, he let go of the trainer button and the ailerons went hard over because the flap switch was still active.

So on the Device panel, you have to INT Flap Aux2 and Aux3. Aux4 you can assign a master but if you are not going to assign rate/expo to Flight mode the you can not use Rudd D/R or Ail D/R to activate Aux4.

The only reason I don't show my settings is you have your model wired to factory settings. Mine, all surfaces have individual wires so I have active tailerons, flap sys>flapperon, mix>TV pitch/roll.

I got to get some work done but hope that helps you understand the differences.
Wow thank you that's invaluable info - thanks for taking the time to explain it-- I'm still a nube in many respects! Anyway I will get busy with all this new info, cheers Ozzy
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
The same screen you posted, go to Flight Mode and change it from INH to either flap or aux2. This will activate your flap tri switch or your aux2 tri switch as the switch that changes all or some (they are choosable) of your expo/rate settings.

Your flap switch has no function to you as flap because you have your Ails are a Y. So use the flap switch as your common FMode to trim and d/r. By doing this you are then free to use the individual rate switches how every you want to carry out functions without changing the rates.
Fantastic advise- I've been tinkering with the menu for a few hours now- I've learned a hell of a lot, I INH the Flap and Aux2 triple switches and Aux3 Lever, no longer affecting trim on TV, assigned the airbrake to Mix, it appears that the BUTN has to be depressed to deploy the brake, maybe will try that once I'm comfortable because that seems a logical way to activate the brake.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 01:05 AM
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I use it to activate the Airbrake Canards on my Euro. I press the button once and based on the preset mix on Aux1 it flips it from normal setting to full 70* deflection.
If I press it again, it flips it back down to normal operation.
I don't recall my mix settings but I know using the button how it operates depends on the mix settings.
Not a must though. What ever you get used to and feels comfortable.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 01:32 AM
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I use it to activate the Airbrake Canards on my Euro. I press the button once and based on the preset mix on Aux1 it flips it from normal setting to full 70* deflection.
If I press it again, it flips it back down to normal operation.
I don't recall my mix settings but I know using the button how it operates depends on the mix settings.
Not a must though. What ever you get used to and feels comfortable.
I checked the BUTN in the Monitor, with my current settings I had to press and hold it down to deploy brake, if released it goes right back to off so for now will keep it on Mix.
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