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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:35 PM
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Not really worth doing the whole shaft adaptor and motor shaft - too hard to get most motor shafts out. Doing just the adaptor also is no use as then doing it up on a motor shafts adds error.
So just Static balance the rotor, then Dynamic balance it all later too.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:41 PM
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I have always used soldering for all my RC connectors but every application at my job (aircraft mechanic) depends on the aircraft system. If I'm fixing wires for cockpit lighting or something like that I'm soldering but if I'm fixing a jumper from a relay o bus bar it is alwayscrimped. I think ccrimping takes out some of the human error that can occur during soldering like a cold solder joint. There are many times when laying on my back underneath an instrument panel soldering is impossible so crimping and environmental splices are necessary. Both methods work but I solder connectors as it allows for greater versatility when charging etc... just my two cents as an aircraft mechanic. I work on big corporate jets like Gulfstream and falcons so I am talking from experience on nice aircraft lol. When you pull the overhead panel on a falcon 50 you see solder joints on things like rheostats but the circuit breakers use crimped connectors.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:01 PM
I did it...
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
32 Euro....
Uses dual magnets...
I made my own, pretty much the same as that.
Use rare earth magnets ($1) some wood ($1) and a normal prop balancer - for the shaft and cones ($4)....

But... any cone system is fraught with error, and very few (if any) make decent enough cones and shaft to be truly accurate. Magnets bearings mean the system has zero friction effectively, so any error (outside of the fan) shows up notably. eg imperfect drilled and tapped cones, or slightest bend in a shaft - or not even seated correctly in the fan by yourself.

So better is to use the exact shaft of the actual fan, for the pivot. eg 6mm... 8mm.... but then you need to add 'points' the their end - which needs care to do accurately too! (spin a shaft in an electric drill against an electric grinding wheel, or device - erases 'centralising error', so you can make highly accurate points yourself).

32 euro.... or get a Hobbyking US$10 one...
The cones are the shortfall in most of these mass produced things.
Makes sense. I can get the right size mm shafts from McMaster, turn a true point on each side using the lathe, then use the earth mag's and make my own. Just have to make a shaft to match each hole in different fans, then make sure the shaft is balanced. Thanks. I have a small project now
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by firehawkzach View Post
I have always used soldering .....rheostats but the circuit breakers use crimped connectors.
The reply was out of the comment that crimping is inferior or problematic even in our application.

And yes as mentioned your not using your local ordinary solder from the hardware store for the applications you describe. I assume your solder connections don't heat up and melt off as we often hear in this hobby

Solder is used, but with specific standards of solder types, how they are applied, mounting and tie down, not typically on high loads in certain environments etc. Too there are always petitions for exception. Open systems standards require proving cert for exceptions but otherwise defaults to crimp. So where you use it, has been examined and approved viability for use.

For our application as I said either is fine.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by av8ersteve View Post
Has anyone ever used one of these balancers?
http://www.lipoly.de/index.php?main_...03&language=de
I've tried both types for balancing the fans. To be honest none of them have the quality anymore that truly centers a prop or fan. I have had to machine all of mine to get them to work correctly on small fans. I have an older one which is 30 years plus and of good quality that I use. It is a Dubro wheel fulcrum type. The newer dubros both mag and fulcrum are not that true but good enough for larger Fans and props. I have tried several and they all vary when tested with the same fan or prop. So just go for it and dynamically balance the hub spinner once you are close with the balancer.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:25 PM
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I was not disagreeing with you or implying that you were saying one is better than the other just simply stating that's how it happens at work. Many times we choose the method depending on maintenance manuals or previous configuration but we do not solder on heavy gauge wire or high current applications. Like I said my two cents
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Not really worth doing the whole shaft adaptor and motor shaft - too hard to get most motor shafts out. Doing just the adaptor also is no use as then doing it up on a motor shafts adds error.
So just Static balance the rotor, then Dynamic balance it all later too.
True some are a head ache but even guys who are returning their motors for better kv pop them open. Too isn't that what EPF was doing with theirs. Both the fan and motor were balanced together was the reason that was give why they don't sell them as separate parts.

Anyways just an idea. If the grand Pete says it a bad idea, I bow to your intellect on the matter; you slap a lot more of these together than I ever do. I tend to pay someone to do it. From what I understand most places just dynamically balance if they claim factory balanced assembled setup.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by firehawkzach View Post
I was not disagreeing with you or implying that you were saying one is better than the other just simply stating that's how it happens at work. Many times we choose the method depending on maintenance manuals or previous configuration but we do not solder on heavy gauge wire or high current applications. Like I said my two cents
Sorry my bad. May be reading into your comment more than you said. Sorry.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:37 PM
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No worries I just wanted to be sure you knew my intentions. We got way off topic here lol. If I were to buy this plane I would either use a Deans or EC5 depending on the current draw both would be soldered.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:45 PM
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Fire,


Oooh you said "Deans"
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:58 PM
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Lol ok? The free wing F-18 ARF came with deans or foe deans already soldered which was very convenient. I don't know about this jet but seems like free wing agrees with me on the connector lol. V8 I've missed seeing your posts since I'm not really in the other thread anymore. I have been telling myself I would buy another freewing F-18 but I have too many other projects going. All of my money is being saved at the moment towards a new truck, an RCturbine, and a ductedfan.com A-4 all composite. I still have not decided on the turbine airframe yet but I have plenty of time to decide lol. My wife is going to kill me
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 09:00 PM
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One of the biggest issues with soldering is the cheap solder that gets used. One issue is flux that never gets cleaned off then may corrode. Another is the ratio used in the solder. Look at the terrible solder used on many connectors that are pre-installed. I swear some of them have no tin/silver or whatever content and is just lead. I always remove and replace all the bullets that come out of China. Had to many failures to not do the extra work. If I recall the power poles exceeded 300 plus Amps during test and the original deans was also very close behind

I would think that a lot of failures with solder types are due to bad installation by the builder. Many of my students and some other flyers come out with terrible workmanship in that area and wonder why they crash. Regards mechanical clamping. If done correctly with the correct amount of stripped surface and the proper size terminal and crimping tool is equal to a soldered joint. The area is actually the same on the mechanical and conductive level. The disadvantage to solder is vibration and wire stress just beyond the joint unless restrained. However, this can be alleviated if the soldered section does not flow beyond the terminal. When I worked in the aerospace industry on both space and weapons systems we had exacting standards that had a mixture of the above. To be honest a lot of it comes down to black magic. Some stuff fails no matter what you do or use.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 09:18 PM
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Yes, that will be the case.... POOR WORKMANSHIP causes solder failures.
Soldering is fine, if you know what you are doing. Done properly it will NEVER have an issue in model aircraft.

Yeah, those Chinese solder joints are probably the worst you can encounter! LOL
Dull, grey, flakey/crystallised....
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 09:22 PM
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The Castle BEC says its rated up to 26 volts input. I figured I could use my high C rated 6 cell to run everything at one time
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 09:29 PM
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Yes, you surely can... and that will be fine.

I always add a "JST pigtail" to the battery connector (XT150) side when making up the main power leads. Thus a tap to get the battery voltage to a BEC etc.
This is so I can plug in a small battery instead (2S or 3S) to run all the electronics for testing, and not need put put in a flight battery.

Not a fantastic pic but you can make it out.....
...
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