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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined May 2007
3,088 Posts
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If the signal is strong enough, it doesn't matter what freqency it's on, it can overload the front-end of the Rx. At that point, all the fancy hopping schemes and filters are moot. If that's the case - find a new place to fly!
ER9X doesn't need cert. FrSky has the certificates on their website. (ER9X and FrSky on a 16ch setup is in my Flanker )
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined May 2007
3,088 Posts
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At the moment - nothing
![]() Eventually: 1 LH elevator 2 LH elevator (reduntant, on second Rx) 3 RH elevator 4 RH elevator 5 LH rudder 6 RH rudder 7 LH aileron 8 RH aileron 9 LH throttle 10 RH throttle 11 LH pitch vector 12 RH pitch vector 13 Rudder vector 14 Gear doors 15 Gear 16 Nose wheel steer Overkill? Why yes, thanks for asking
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High Orbit.....
Joined Jun 2009
4,945 Posts
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Quote:
As for the FrSky FCC Certs. did you match the posted certs with the actual modules that are in use or spoken of with the ER9X? I don't own any so I just looked across several conversations of various owners date 2012 where this was still all in play. Trouble is every RX, every module, TX etc has to have approval to meet compliance so if several are still saying parts are still pending, I have to assume they're not referencing the posted certs. There is conversation where some said those are misleading but if you have better details, please some links. Cause believe me I'd love cheap and working with robust features and compliance all in one package. I'm reviewing the Jeti but could save tonnes of coil with a FrSky if its all approved. Jeti is going through this with their DC and DS-16, every RX, Satillite RX etc. Some have got the approved DC-16 but don't have any approaved RXs to use with it yet. The DS is still in the works. At least the Jeti threads are posting the FCC certs for each device so you can tell what is or isn't. I'm finding it harder to sort through that on the ER9x/FrSky thread. So ya links if you know where they are. |
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United States, AR, Jacksonville
Joined Jul 2004
337 Posts
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I've been flying exclusively off a grass field and have been having the retract's cases cracking often. I suspect it's from the trunion slamming against the case's back from the stresses involved.
I'm running low on replacement pieces and came up with the idea to add aluminum plates to take the brunt of the slamming forces. The plates are handmade from 1/16" thick aluminum stock. See the photos for more. I haven't had any problems with the plastic trunions cracking/breaking yet, but I'll be ordering some with metal trunions when the time comes. Does anyone have some other ideas for beefing up their retract systems? My main gear oleos are still tending to bend with a twist to the, "toe out," angle. I still haven't determined what part is actually twisting. |
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United States, AR, Jacksonville
Joined Jul 2004
337 Posts
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Problems with them all. Useually it's the mains, but the last time the nose cracked.
Maxthrottle, I really procrastinated, but here's finally a video so you can see how the Turnigy nano-tech 5,000mAh 6s 25-50C performs. This video was of the tenth flight using this particular pack. I haven't noticed any drops in performance yet.
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
6,258 Posts
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That aluminium plate is one 'sort of' solution.....
Firstly there is the freeplay in the trunions - which is what you are stopping but..... Whenever you 'strengthen' some area, you are just feeding the forces into another area. In this case into the mounts. As long as a 'strengthening' stops the weak point you did it for, from getting damaged AND also the new area the forces go into, then all is well. In the case of passing forces into the retract mounts, they will probably gfail over time. Glue breaks out etc. When you have freeplay in this sort of area, it is actually a very USEUFUL thing, if harnessed correctly. Not by blocking it, but by USING it to allow installation of an "energy absorber" rather than an "energy redirector" (like that plate is). If you fit a damping system to the leg, you can absorb energy instead. The problem was working out HOW to do that effectively in this case. Things like.... a rubber/foam block in the retract wall to comrpess via the trunion (but not a great long term solution really). Or a 'ram rod' like the nose leg has, fed into a spring (like many have done for the nose leg). Because a spring has as good as indefinite lifespan, so it will keep on working 'forever' It is just not overly easy to do for the mains - but it is possible to do. So be wary of "solid stop" fixes, versus "Energy Absorbing" methods. Because energy absorbing is a many times better solution. Especially in this main gear legs case - because the freeplay assists in its implementation. Hmmmm.... possibly a retract could have a 'compression pin' idea built into and onto it. A pin that comes into the trunion sidewall, to pass the trunion 'banging' out of the retract to a spring assembly external to the retract, but its assembly is fit onto the retract (bolted to it via a wrap around bracket that uses the trunion bushing thread for attachment. Change to using metal trunions for that is best. This retract issue is something ALL aircraft suffer from almost!! They need to put a bit more effort and thought into implementing a decent energy absorbing mechanism onto retract themselves, which is actually quite easy to do, and not that big to add either! |
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Nice video, although im not sure if it's the camera speaker or what but your Su sounds different...almost like a muffled sound.
as for the retracts that's a nice lil mod, but it could also be from the compression of the trunnion brass hitting the housing of the retract. The only way to find out is to fly it with your aluminum support, other than that the only thing is to go to a more expensive retract like the Eflite metal 25-46 retracts. Or wait for the new FMS all metal retracts to be released which are slightly larger and equivalent to the eflite 60-120. |
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High Orbit.....
Joined Jun 2009
4,945 Posts
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Ya I posted using the metal plates off my old RCL retracts which were the original to these pz15090 while back after one person suggested the same using wood blocks.
For the nose strut.... well Pete said it. It takes a different kind of shock because the strut is longer. For that I added the shock trailing link. There is impact force and constant force. The jerky impact is what's doing the damage compared to the continuous drag from the grass. The mains work better because they share the load while the nose takes all the leveraged force of the bouncing nose. So training and top force springs do well to dampen that impact shock. |
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United States, AR, Jacksonville
Joined Jul 2004
337 Posts
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Yes, the batteries come down quite warm. But I would say they are borderline hot. I've heated and puffed quite a few batteries in my experience and these seem to be holding well. Not near as hot as I've had in the past. I'll have to bring my temp meter next time I fly, then I can eat my words, LOL.
I was just looking at my nose gear strut and had a thought, two more of those would be nice for the mains. But I didn't pull out a ruler and compare the lengths. I didn't like the idea of the tires hanging so far down when retracted. I like the idea of energy dissapation and the spacers to angle the mains forward. As far as energy dissapation though, you have less than 1mm to work with where the trunion meets the backplate. That doesn't present for many options. Anythin that would add resistance when the gear nears extension will draw more amps from the BEC, and I REALLY don't want to do that after my past fiasco with burning up BECs. Aluminum plates it is for now. I suspect the next weak failing point will be the plastic trunions. |
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