Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:54 PM
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Thanks guys.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:57 PM
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Air brake Su-35

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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Looks great ITTD but how come you didn't make it wider like V8 suggested?
The panel lines on this SU-35 are different from the other variants, because it doesn't have a center air brake vs those that do (see pics below).
They side ahead of CG but are high enough to not induce pitch up or down too greatly. So you could have made it larger and more effective.
Hey MaxT, I never saw V8's suggestion on size-- anyway its all good, it looks and works fine. This variant does have air brake panel lines, I think it depends on the variant... I thought this was the ideal size for this model! See image, I think this is a 35 variant with speed brake
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:19 PM
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Nice work on the speed break! Does it have any impact on the battery? I use the same batteries that I use on my helicopters, 5000mah. and the mod looks like my batteries would be hard to fit under it.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JTAnimal View Post
Nice work on the speed break! Does it have any impact on the battery? I use the same batteries that I use on my helicopters, 5000mah. and the mod looks like my batteries would be hard to fit under it.
Thanks! I'd say negligent, it's just one servo. As for space should be ok it has a big tray under the access cover, however!, I'm running this on 2 x 4s in parallel and the specs on the 2 4s 3700 batts I bought were not accurate, they are wider and heavier than listed so I'll have to carve out some foam to make them fit. Of you're running on stock 6s you can put a large LiPo in there it's a huge batt bay!
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Last edited by IntheTubeDeep; Jan 06, 2013 at 11:24 PM. Reason: spelling error
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:54 PM
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Don't get me wrong, great implementation....

As which model we are working with; ITTD, actually it isn't the Su-27M (T-10S-70) or the SU-27UB as in the picture you've posted. The SU-35 BM or S starting series 901 etc doesn't have a center back air brake. The earlier versions SU-27M of the SU-35 immediate R&D descendants of the SU-37 did, all most notable even in the picture you posted by the tops of the rudders. The earlier version the rudder doesn't have the cut angle and the ray dome is smaller etc.

That's why I posted the back of the actual 902 that this was modelled after and you can clearly see it doesn't have it.

As for the hinge... you could have used the smaller Robart hinge without having to cut the slots out which just increases potential for it to break free. The hinges on these models are very tiny and if glued properly are not flying off.

As for bumping into the battery... I though there was a lot of space between the battery and hatch cover. I stuffed that kids stick foam in the compartment to see how much room there was and posted the battery tray dimensions a while back;
Length 200mm x Width 58mm x Height at Front 75mm, Height at Rear 65mm
Center of the tray is 250mm forward of CG-155mm.
Thats a 10-17mm clearance depending on your batteries flat dimensions.

I wasn't going to add an air brake but if I was, I'd use the small sonic offset hinges since they are about as thick as the hatch wall. Add planks of thin ply in the same manor that ITTD used the Al tubes, tiny pin screws through the ply into hinge mount base and slice a slot into the foam to hold the brake panel hinges hidden. Then add a horn dead lateral center of the brake near the LE hinge point. [Actually I change my mind], if the servo can sit between the battery and the hatch, I'd fix the servo to the brake and allow the arm to push away from the fuse. If not then recess your servo full forward of the hatch cover and position the brake closed with the servo full forward to that it acts to lock/hold the brake down while loading the servo less.
Just free thinking there V8 re your request for suggestions.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
Ya that's why im working on another airbrake which is a lil wider, but im trying to figure out the trailing arm mech., which is actually the hydrolic arm which deploys the airbrake and supports it on the su27. The setup i have been messing with binds sometimes when it's lowered, but then again it doesn't need to be lowered till i land and could manually dislodge it once it lands, naaaah! Any ideas would be much appreciated.
It's too bad no one makes a scale airbrake servo - I was gonna try to use the screw drive retract from my old MiG29 but did not have the time to tinker around. I was watching B1 Bobs vid a few weeks back and he mentioned a brand on the retract motor he used Firgilli?

http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=113

Any way they were way cool but suspect they are only for large scale planes.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 10:40 PM
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Hey guys, sorry it took me so long to respond to you guys. yes I use the stock 9x receiver. I don't really have a problem with it. it's just, where i fly, there are several spots of interference. I should rephrase... they weren't brown outs, more like split moments of signal loss. Those locations are partcicularly when the planes fly close to certain houses... I am pretty sure that those houses use wifi, which in turn cause interference with my radio. I know that where I fly is not particularly desirable. maybe i will go elsewhere.. but i have heard people having signal loss using expensive radios, especially when wifi and cell phone towers are present... so... do i buy a new radio that will still be at risk of signal loss or do i just find a new spot... i have yet to find a radio that is "bulletproof". if it existed everyone would own it... as for the plane, the airframe is finished, but I am pretty sure the electronics inside are ok. we'll see what i decide to do... but yes I am upset, especially since I've finally been getting the hang of landing this thing softly.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
I guess that plastic model has the true scale airbrake?....
I didn't see or have any shots of the actual from that angle to illustrate the difference. Sorry to disappoint Pete. The guys from which I cut the pic from go for super scale and its the shape and length I've seen from various line drawings. No big deal. I just figured if you're going to go for it, may as well make it scale and as effective as the real one.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntheTubeDeep View Post
It's too bad no one makes a scale airbrake servo - I was gonna try to use the screw drive retract from my old MiG29 but did not have the time to tinker around. I was watching B1 Bobs vid a few weeks back and he mentioned a brand on the retract motor he used Firgilli?

http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=113

Any way they were way cool but suspect they are only for large scale planes.
I too have the worm drive from a LX mig and gave it a lil thought back when anculas 1st did the mod. I never gave it much thought after that.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jk671 View Post
... especially when wifi and cell phone towers are present... so... do i buy a new radio that will still be at risk of signal loss ....
Anythin is possible bu no always probable. WiFi and Cell towers work in a different spectrum. I have a cell tower 700 meters from our field.... Beleive me it was a big dicussion when it went in as we had the field long before they ever showed up. No change what so ever. Because I worked designing and placing the cell grids several year ago, I had to explain why it shouldn't be a worry and that it would take a unique convergence, a failing horn which someone would attend to, or a line of site high powered antenna, that you could fly into the path of. Your signal is cryptically coded with the expectation of packet loss; which is why you can use WiFi or cell phones at your field because the noise floor generally isn't so extremely high, from such dissimilar devices. E.g. the FPV guys who fly in Manhattan which is bathed in hot spots. Its when you have a lot of similar radios on the same frequencies with similar encryption etc even with random hopping is where you start getting a little concerns.

I haven't looked into the 9X but there was a recent range study done for a number of current TXs that has me curious where the 9X falls. Still some of the guys were concerned with the particular RX that you paired with the 9X so I'd ask them what they've heard. If the set up you used does have a know limit you might want to look into some changes.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Don't get me wrong, great implementation....

As which model we are working with; ITTD, actually it isn't the Su-27M (T-10S-70) or the SU-27UB as in the picture you've posted. The SU-35 BM or S starting series 901 etc doesn't have a center back air brake. The earlier versions SU-27M of the SU-35 immediate R&D descendants of the SU-37 did, all most notable even in the picture you posted by the tops of the rudders. The earlier version the rudder doesn't have the cut angle and the ray dome is smaller etc.

That's why I posted the back of the actual 902 that this was modelled after and you can clearly see it doesn't have it.

As for the hinge... you could have used the smaller Robart hinge without having to cut the slots out which just increases potential for it to break free. The hinges on these models are very tiny and if glued properly are not flying off.

As for bumping into the battery... I though there was a lot of space between the battery and hatch cover. I stuffed that kids stick foam in the compartment to see how much room there was and posted the battery tray dimensions a while back;
Length 200mm x Width 58mm x Height at Front 75mm, Height at Rear 65mm
Center of the tray is 250mm forward of CG-155mm.
Thats a 10-17mm clearance depending on your batteries flat dimensions.

I wasn't going to add an air brake but if I was, I'd use the small sonic offset hinges since they are about as thick as the hatch wall. Add planks of thin ply in the same manor that ITTD used the Al tubes, tiny pin screws through the ply into hinge mount base and slice a slot into the foam to hold the brake panel hinges hidden. Then add a horn dead lateral center of the brake near the LE hinge point. [Actually I change my mind], if the servo can sit between the battery and the hatch, I'd fix the servo to the brake and allow the arm to push away from the fuse. If not then recess your servo full forward of the hatch cover and position the brake closed with the servo full forward to that it acts to lock/hold the brake down while loading the servo less.
Just free thinking there V8 re your request for suggestions.
I used the sonic hinges, great lil hinges. As for the servo actually mounted in the airbrake is something i never even thought of and will definitely look into that, thats why I asked for your input !
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
I used the sonic hinges, great lil hinges. As for the servo actually mounted in the airbrake is something i never even thought of and will definitely look into that, thats why I asked for your input !
I contemplated that also-- using the screw drive retract from the MiG29, will take a lot of thought though and tinkering!
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:27 AM
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Tube, nice job matching that paint and use of the spackle, looks clean. Good job, make site to get a maiden video.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk671 View Post
Hey guys, sorry it took me so long to respond to you guys. yes I use the stock 9x receiver. I don't really have a problem with it. it's just, where i fly, there are several spots of interference. I should rephrase... they weren't brown outs, more like split moments of signal loss. Those locations are partcicularly when the planes fly close to certain houses... I am pretty sure that those houses use wifi, which in turn cause interference with my radio. I know that where I fly is not particularly desirable. maybe i will go elsewhere.. but i have heard people having signal loss using expensive radios, especially when wifi and cell phone towers are present... so... do i buy a new radio that will still be at risk of signal loss or do i just find a new spot... i have yet to find a radio that is "bulletproof". if it existed everyone would own it... as for the plane, the airframe is finished, but I am pretty sure the electronics inside are ok. we'll see what i decide to do... but yes I am upset, especially since I've finally been getting the hang of landing this thing softly.
Did u get a video of your lose?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:59 AM
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John, you MUST get the FRsky stuff for your 9X!!
And also get it modded (however) to use ER9X firmware instead!!
To save me typing a LOT more..... in simple terms it is:
1,456,345 times BETTER..... bulletproof RC virtually (even tested to try to kill it... nothing you will ever encounter gets it down). Meanwhile the stock 9X RC RF (module/RX) hardware is RUBBISH... down the bottom of the ladder!!
And ER9X turns the 9X into BETTER than any other radio of ANY price there is availaible! (too long to tell why). Unlimited 'open' mixing as one strong point. But then also 50 other bonuses!

You wil never be shot down again..... and it also reboots in 1 or 2 seconds max! The fastest rebooting system there is pretty well (as tested at various sites)... but it also never happens anyway! Because it can run down to about 2.8v and survive brownouts anyway (if you are silly enough to ever have a system set up that can brown out - well I guess there is always SOME extreme case that could occur!).

Oh.. and you can run the 9X (ER9X) as a 16 channel TX then too....
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