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Old Dec 12, 2012, 10:35 AM
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Hey guys, I am convinced I have to order one of these birds , question now is where is the best place to get these in Europe, so far I found it in HobbyKing and Lindinger.at, I prefer lindinger but price there is a little high.

Do you know some other webshop selling Su-35 in Europe ?
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 10:46 AM
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I've never seen the xt150 in person but from the pics I've seen they look nice and easy to plug and pull apart. My only concern was reverse polarity, seem there isn't anything built on the sleeves to prevent this...is this correct? That was why I strayed from using them, but like I've said never seen em in person. So I may have to get some when I do a HV setup on a 120mm CS12 im eyeing.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 11:43 AM
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V8 they have a male female sleeve. So you setup the ends both with colour and size. If your colour blind not sure how you would setup any of them but the sleeves can also be linked together just like the EC5 if that's an issue for you.

One of the simplest way to avoid dead short is follow the circuit. Like as you solder the bullet end so one side first, ESC Neg to batt, to next pack etc back to ESC positive. You have no end to short because its already connected. And if you use female male bullet end with male and female sleeves you can see how you couldn't reverse the polarity.
When I see connectors done male/male or female/female off the ESC, that's just asking for trouble and immediately swap them so that I can't put the wrong polarity on even if I was colour blind.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 11:44 AM
RC is healthy for your brains!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
I've never seen the xt150 in person but from the pics I've seen they look nice and easy to plug and pull apart. My only concern was reverse polarity, seem there isn't anything built on the sleeves to prevent this...is this correct? That was why I strayed from using them, but like I've said never seen em in person. So I may have to get some when I do a HV setup on a 120mm CS12 im eyeing.
Hi! For what I have seen in the photos, since I never used them, I believe that it is just coloring.
Considering the fact that the connectors are all independent (meaning, that they are not coupled as the structure of an xt60 or an ec3 for example), coloring does make some sense and it is also the proper way to allow complete freedom of installation when assembling a parallel setup or a series setup.
A positive of a battery (the source of energy) will always be a male bullet, and a negative will always be a female sleeve.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 12:05 PM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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That's what I was afraid of. I know color matching is a no brained, but there have been a few times I've accidently tried plug a connector in reverse thankfully the EC5 prevented me (brain fart). I guess id just have to pay extra attention if I do ever decide to use em when I go HV. Color blind or not it can happen. Thanks for clarifying Max, I'll give em a look, especially that it'll be easier to solder and add a cc bec pro. Sweet!
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 12:06 PM
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For what it's worth, I'm using XT90s (stock motors/fans). It's passing about 102 amps peak.

I soldered a standalone bec and the female bullets to the end of the female, which then plug into the male bullets/ESCs.

This is uncharacteristic for me as I'm usually OCD about minimizing excess resistance points in my wiring. So far (6 flights) it has worked well with no abnormal heating. The wiring and all connection points come down at the same temps, a little warm to the touch, matching the battery.

Are your guys' wiring temps coming in at slightly above the ambient temperature?
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 12:40 PM
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concept of the three colors

V8, I have found this contribution that is really useful:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1648574

The colors are useful for the battery side (positive and negative), while on the motor side they put 3 different colors only to help you out in case you need to get the shaft rotating either clockwise or anti clockwise.
I would suggest red and black couples all the time (I am mildly color blind myself and red and black are always safe by definition), while blue can be left more for the motor side. In principle the triad black blue red is also safe by definition for colorblind people.
Considering the high quality of the design concept of the xt150, I would be quite tempted to go for it "blindfolded" (no pun intended ).
Excuse me for the enthusiasm but sometimes I really feel that I love everything coming from hobby king because I am still in my learning phase, while it must be true that there may be good and bad apples sold by them, too! I am just a beginner...
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiskey Whiskey View Post
.

Are your guys' wiring temps coming in at slightly above the ambient temperature?
I've only check my esc temp which are warm, but ill check my connector and wire inside the hatch next time I fly.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 02:07 PM
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We are used to this with wall plugs V8 for good reason. But it doesn't mean I can't do stupid things none the less.
You can flip the EC5 because it 50/50 chance of flipping it, you know if you get it wrong you can't make a connection so your not really looking. But think of new wall plugs with one side fatter than the other. If these were separate lines and the smaller side had a different shape, how would you be able to plug the wrong lead into the wrong socket. Both the sleeve and male/female combination works the same way. Extend that with only starting with one side to what ever device that may be polarity sensitive, because you've already started with the one side you can't mix them up there after.

So when dealing with multi packs you start with battery in hand on one side of the circuit, connect it to the ESC and then work your way around the clock. If you start that way there is nothing to dead short after that.

Why some dead short is they put everything in place with a bunch of leads all hanging there without clear sight if they are holding on to battery or ESC. Then add to it for reasons I've never understood, manufacturers do this male/male to female female which invite the error your chances for issues escalate. But if you male female and sleeve also having male female, you just choose a combination that can only be connected one way.

But nothing is fool proof. You make something more fool proof, we just build a better fool But plugs you near double the bullets needed and increase wire length just because I don't? can't? start with one side of a circuit?
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 02:24 PM
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First thing I did was to change the batt connectors to male and female - if only to suit my stock of batteries.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Until you go to 8S. Then you'll start looking for 6mm. Save the trouble and think if you might do this and if so may as well do it now. XT150 or Andersons
Why?

With 8S you can develop same power with less amps, or more power at same amps, but amp draw will depend on motor needs, not conectors or battery so why the need for a bigger conector? What Am I missing?


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Do you know some other webshop selling Su-35 in Europe ?
Ready2fly.com

Though I would go for HK UK warehouse at the time.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiskey Whiskey View Post
...Are your guys' wiring temps coming in at slightly above the ambient temperature?
I temp gun all the connectors, wires and devices. I find one of the three motor wires often get hotter than the others regardless of which connector I connected it to.
Funny you mention this because so many say with deans or other types, the connector didn't feel hot????? Its insulated. Its made to dissipate heat at the insulator. So under load the connection may get very hot, but you just can't feel it through the insulation. Putting an amp reading to that doesn't help because the motor demands what it demands and you can see what is being lost to heat while supplying the motor demand. Few read right off the battery itself to see if it has to deliver more amps than is being seen at the motor.

So my common sense approach has been, wires or connectors that I add should have a lower resistance than the circuit around them. Most ESC's come with 12 gauge wire which equal to the resistance of a Deans connector. So as long as I have a decent solder to a EC5 or 6mm bullet, I have an idea that I'm not adding a choke point. And since ESC wire has a higher resistance, if I have to add wire and I can take a few grams more, I shorten the ESC wires and replace the length with a heavier gauge to reduce the resistance.
Since EC5 or a 5.5mm bullet has more resistance than a 6mm but weigh almost the same, why not go with a higher gauged connector if it will only perform better? 8mm bullets on the other hand, they feel heavy even in hand so I don't use them, Yet! Anderson's are also good but they are bulky and heavy.
That's my reasoning is all but you just pick a range and work with that.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SU-4ever View Post
....develop same power with less amps, or more power at same amps,.....
While this is true its not what we do in practice. We don't go 8S and match the final watts. The 8S motors we end up with have a higher volt/amp range/demand that we use to go over 1:1. Once you have such a motor throttling back doesn't change the load. The ESC throttle range is only stepped by frequency of full on and full off. So the circuit still sees an amp demand that you may have to match everything up to.
So with the extra volts comes potential higher shaft power, but still usually increases the amp demand of a 6S and who's not going to use it if its available.

I guess I should insert here that this is also my reasoning for 6mm XT150s instead of EC5s, Andersons or Deans is by adding more connectors you add the potential for more choke points.
I usually pick a volt setup over an amp setup because amp setups lose more power to heat more than voltage setups. Thats why we have 120V or 240V AC out of the wall. Even with step down or transform to DC its more efficient and less potential to burning your house down. The only exception I make is where a lower volt setup comes out lighter if thrust and efflux are not my game. And usually the overlap between 4S to 6S to 8S are met with a very good more expensive motor. Since I don't always go expensive, I MAY get more value out of a cheap 8S vs a expensive 6S.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:35 PM
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"Faster than stock" is some form of reference, but if doing CS10/12 the reference you need is 4S versus 'aftermarket' 6S. Because the setup is almost surely going to use much better 6S motors - like the 4S will too. Not 'mediocore' stock 6S motors.
eg HET, Leopard, CyclonePower (Inrunner) as the main 6S CS10/12 options.

So that comparison of 4S to stock is likely to be unfair... as the 4S setup would have been better motors etc.
Use a better motor setup in the stock fans (HET etc) and I expect that will outrun the 4S result. Mainly as 6S is more efficient, plus can be driven out to much higher powers than 4S ever could - if chosen to do so, motor KV etc.
And as per my weight calcs (vaguely mentioned earlier) 4S will not be lighter than 6S of the exact same power.
Yeah weight may be neutralized due to running 2x 4s, but check out my system: its gonna be the CS12B 70mm/ARC 28-58-1s / 110A ECSs on 4s- I spoke with Dave at Lighthouse and says do NOT use 6s on this setup, not even 5s, so I"m sticking with 4s- should put out 3000g thrust and hopefully I can keep the flying weight to about 2800g

Freewing Su-35 Desert Camo Build 1 "The Ingredients" UNBLOCKED (6 min 5 sec)
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:49 PM
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Yeah weight may be neutralized due to running 2x 4s, but check out my system: its gonna be the CS12B 70mm/ARC 28-58-1s / 110A ECSs on 4s- I spoke with Dave at Lighthouse and says do NOT use 6s on this setup, not even 5s, so I"m sticking with 4s- should put out 3000g thrust and hopefully I can keep the flying weight to about 2800g
Which batteries will you be going with? and how much amps do you figure on the 28-58-1s burning to get what will likely be 2.7kg thrust once in the tube. Because I've been trying to see what the transition point from 4S to 5S etc would be for the CS70/12, while keeping the battery weight within <675g or for you <850g for the SU-35.
Dave right in keeping to 4S with the 28-58-1s because the fan load is higher and the KV for those motors are too high (KV: 3180) for higher volts. If you went with other motors, 6S wouldn't be an issue. I've used the 28-58-1 at 6S. Its designed around the wemo mini. But the wemo has a different pitch and wash with less blades.
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