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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:57 AM
Auxerre - France
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France, Bourgogne, Auxerre
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urrl View Post
I use one Align DS420 digital servo which is already reversed but I'm sure others here have an alternate solution. These servos can be found at most local hobby shops which sell the Align 450 heli.
Thanks !
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:58 AM
Auxerre - France
toubab's Avatar
France, Bourgogne, Auxerre
Joined Dec 2011
119 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jk671 View Post
I used a hobbyking servo reverser... and hooked it up to one of the elevator servos
Thanks ! I have one of this somewere I will use it !

Can you help me about connection and programming !

Fabrice
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 05:37 AM
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Assessement and design completed.....
Well, the major sections. And other 'fine tuning' bits get done ad-hoc as I go.

I got all excited so I did a 3DSMAX design version. Max likes those sorts of things!! hehe (15mins, very simplistic but done to scale). Some bits are probably not quite correctly positioned, but it shows the whole idea fine.

All components are 2.5mm plywood.
Two main rails/slabs of 540mm total length (each) run from the rear of the ESC area all the way to the front retract bay bulkhead. At 30mm height they are the battery tray "wall height", which also conveniently passes straight into the retract bay in the way it is an 'inverted bay' relative to the battery bay.
Spacing is 60mm all the way... another convenient thing! (which led to the design of course)

Bulkheads are placed at the ESC front wall, the battery tray rear end, the battery tray front end (which goes right up to the arcing top, with a 'partner' bulkhead in the retract bay on the other side of the stock foam (5mm foam) bulkhead there, and then the final one at the very front of the reatract bay.

The battery tray flat floor, and another flat floor in the retract bay, create a much stronger total structure. But the bulkheads, and being epoxied to the foam sidewalls, and various other small bits done along the way, also add up to make an extremely solid framework total.

Quite simple pieces and shapes to cut out. Very easy to insert and adjoin to form the final complete framework. All in situ with no 'opening up' required.
It can be done on any Su with ease.
Assembly is done by inserting each side length first. Some foam cutting/slotting done for those. Not epoxied till later, after all other parts are dry tested for size checks and possible stuff ups! LOL
Then epoxy the side lengths in with 15min epoxy, so some of the bulheads can be isnerted and epoxied at that same time. This is to allow 'twisting', if required, to have it all aligned straight. I could make a simple clamping jig to hold it all then.... not sure if I will bother with that yet. Once that is all dry, fit the 'floor' plates, any other bulkheads. After that, some corner runners here and there, for more strength (eg in gear bay floor sides and end)... wherever it seems useful to do.
As it turns out I can get to everywhere I want to, so no CF rod/tube required at all really.

I have started cutting out parts, then will dry fir/check them, then weigh them all. Probably not even 100g as it turns out this design will need.
But they could still even be drilled, or 'opened', to remove some material where it won't affect strength in the flat areas. But I will see what it all really weighs first.
....
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Last edited by PeterVRC; Aug 28, 2012 at 05:46 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 06:50 AM
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So next was the mock up with 'cardboard test pieces'....

Almost everything went as pre-planned... except....
The full 600mm approx lengths could not be fed in the way I hoped. That is no big issue, it just means they are made in pairs per side with an interlock joint. But that joint will need an overlap piece too then.

Everything else was fine as planned.....

....
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:07 AM
You are a "go" for reentry
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Wow Pete... Great... job and drawing. I thought you said... Never mind.

That's basically the box structure I described from the aft center channel thru the battery bay floor forward. At the aft of the hatch is the only place I'd add thin ply to the balsa adding vent holes because it being the only other flex point I wouldn't want the panels to block air flow. Ventung could also be from the upper pass thru above the channel.

Beyond this if I can still break it I'd chaulk that up to my bad flying not a design flaw. Its just like my 3D planes. Strong where needed, light but get it wrong and I'm picking up bits of balsa. So I know to avoid getting it wrong and live with it when I do.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:33 AM
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United States, FL, Hollywood
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Just received the two 4800mAh GensAce 6S 60C batteries today. They are pretty much the same size as the two GensAce 5000's I already have which means a tight squeeze width wise but they do fit without cutting any styrofoam.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Nice repair work V8, you see it's not so bad once you get down to it

Still happily flying my stock SU after repairs, I estimate over 200 flights by now. My Genesis 65C are starting to show serious signs of wear though.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:32 PM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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United States, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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Tmsn,

Thanks! It was daunting at first and was so tempted just to call it a lose when I was looking at her. After a few hrs of contemplating and deciding redoing all my mods and weathering, new fuselage wasn't the best option even though I had a spare. After looking at your pics it made it seem not that hard. Hey and its fun, you learn from these things and that's what makes the hobby great!
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:51 PM
Auxerre - France
toubab's Avatar
France, Bourgogne, Auxerre
Joined Dec 2011
119 Posts
Can someone help me about pluging and programing?
I have a DX8 radio .
I have some problems to connect vector 1,2,3
and mixage !
thanks
Fabrice
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:25 PM
Throttle Bender
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Did 3 videos one looking forward one backward but the best is out on the wingtip with the patent pending V8 mount. . The vids are too much for my old windows XP laptop. Video choppy and lags the sound but it looks fine on my TV.
Trying to save on my wife's laptop where it plays better. Then I will try to put it on YouTube. Maybe by tomorrow. I'd like to edit all 3 together but can't figure that out. After the fact I learned how to remove the date/time stamp.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 04:02 PM
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That didn't take long. I needed 3 clicks of right aileron trim. Messed up and flew with elev and aileron in low rates. The flip wasn't very tight. Landed with a slight tailwind. Hence the go-around.

SU 35 first (5 min 45 sec)
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 04:19 PM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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Merlin,

Thats great! glad it came in handy. What other locations did you place the mount and cam besides the wing? Your using the HK 720p cam correct? I do agree that the wing tip is definitely the best angle/view as it captures the Su & the surround field. Another great thing is getting to see what other pilots fields look like. I'm planning on doing a view from the bottom of the wing rather than the top to capture the underside of the plane and to see what FOD I'm sucking in on takeoff. Once I finish my repairs I'll try it out, hopefully tmrw or Thursday.

Looking forward to your video! I tried combining videos but the quality came out worse so I to haven't figured it out yet. Lol! And my patent is still pending! lol!
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 04:31 PM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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Great video & field! Perfect landing! It was like the wind wasn't there. Next up high speed low-pass over the river/canal/ maybe even a wing tip skim with the cam.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 05:34 PM
Throttle Bender
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Ok I will do a knife edge pass behind the tree over the river. Is the camera waterproof? . I mounted the cam behind the cannon and faced it both ways. Just not as good as on the wing view. I could feel the CG being further aft, I can imagine how it felt on the tail. I'd have to move my bat fwd for that.


It's kind of scary seeing how how much the vertical fins flex from side to side.
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