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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:14 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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Working on the damage

Lil bit of epoxy, spackle, lil CA and work has begun. im letting the spackle dry overnight and Ill add a lil more and then wait another night. Sand it down maybe add a lil Fibergalss cloth on the inside and then repaint. Ill show the progress throught the wk.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
Jk,
.....There is a state side company that sells these just can remember the name. ....
I think you're talking about Sonic. They also have the same hinge with the actuator loop on the arm of the hinge.
Looks like they farmed out manufacturing the China and true to form "China" just re-distributes a clone from the same mold.

The one from HK are way way cheaper; almost 10-1 last time I looked.

V8 when you impacted the nose was that on a straight on nose dive or a hard land on the nose gear and the nose then snapped off.

I wouldn't try this unless I crashed mine but I'd almost want to use 1/8 sheet balsa to replace the side walls of the battery tray (in line with where the wood velcro blocks are), the walls of the nose gear bay all the way forward to the cone. Balsa's light but laminated against foam gets very strong especially in a H beam box pattern.
I'd even add panels from the aft center channel forward to the nose gear to add strength to the floor of the battery tray and nose gear mount box.

Might be able to move the nose retract mount back placing the battery on top of the gear box so that the gear absorbs load rather than flexed through the body.

Might get away with it replacing the nose retract with a CS 46 low profile retract.

Well if anything you guys don't make me feel to bad if I crash her. Something to look forward to
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:48 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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You are correct Sonic Tronics. I get both the spring loaded and regular, although the spring loaded are not posted on the site u need search for em under PARTS. HK is the cheaper one however when I always forget to order em when I purchase something else, can't see payob shipping just for those from HK.

The crash video is uploading as we speak and I will post it sometime later this morning or afternoon. Either way the nose impacted when I came in hot (purposely) to prevent the near stall I had on the prior approach. She bounced on landing about 3'-4' up and the nose hit the ground at about 30*-45* angle and snapped the nose no other damages really other than my very stab mounting tabs for screws broke and am using a new very stab from my spare airframe in the closet.

You think it'll be easier to add balsa than FG cloth? ill have to look into those locations u pointed out and see what I can do. Hey at least if u do ever crash there will have already been a book written on fixing the Su.thanks 4 the info!
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 09:21 AM
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It is not a great use to use "separated sections" in strengthening the plane. All that would happen is it would break between sections, or 'zig'zag' its way between them.
Any strengthening needs to be 'continuous' to work properly.

This means you can still use sections - hopefully intelligently places - but must also have a 'bridging system' then. Like carbon fibre rod/tube to create that continuous effective structure.

You don't get much choice... you either strengthen it up, with the aim to cope with "disaster X" level, at the cost that "Disaster X plus 1" means more serious destruction turning up somewhere else..... or you leave it as it is, and take the lucky dip of the "8" places it can easily break then.
A half step (not continuous) is only moving the break point.

Personally, if I strengthen a plane I go for "near unbreakable", and then rely on not crashing it notably. eg It will cope with 'normal' levels of hard ground contact.
But this is the first EPS plane I have had - all others are EPO and that is much stronger just as it comes. You could see how weak it all was up front right away, but the aim was 'never crash it'.... LOL.
So much for that idea.....
And they weren't even real crashes! They were so paltry, and it just disintegrates anyway.
So now it goes to 'total strength'... basically it will come close to match the strength it has from wing backwards. And if that crashes notably, then it will probably be 'new airframe' time!

But it is pathetic, and unacceptable, as it comes really. (wing leading edge forwards). And I should have known better really.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 09:54 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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That was the only concern I had with strengthening the section that slit. If it was to happen again rather than break just on the otherwise of the epoxy it would travel along further down. I'm guarantee that if the nose was factory reinforced more it would have not been a clean break. Either way I'm going to look at all angles since really it was only the nose part that broke off the retract mount/foam portion was cracked on one side but was still in perfectly good shape and attached to the rest of the plane. Now if the retract was also attached to the nose portion it also would've been ripped out making the fix harder.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Anyone know other store then Banana Hobby to be this kit in stock?
Banana hobby dont answer the e-mail.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:25 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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RC-castle in HK, but shipping is gonna be $$$ pricey.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Thank's, I liked to know another in USA.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Pete, its clear if I say zig you'll say zap, up, down left right. Member you're the one whocomplained how weak the nose is.

If you took off ythe top of the model from the back of the hatch to the front of the Nose gear bay, you'll see its a series of boxes of foam. The heaviest thing in the model is the battery aft of the nose gear. The top edges of the box around the hatch to the nose gear is floating unattached. Thus the walls of the nose gear box flexs out and the battery and nose flex and snap around the gear box.

If you look at full scale construction they mill a solid chunk a block into a series of hollow boxes top to bottom.

Thing is even if FW pinned the side walls of foam to the top panel, it would still be un attached around the hatch. They could have remedied this with a continuous wall of foam from behind the aft section of the hatch all the way forward to the cone. It would have allowed for a slightly thinner outer shell.

I already slide a 1/8 strip of balsa all along the walls of the box which made me wonder why they didn't do this either with foam or balsa.

CF or glass cloth would do fine but just harder to apply and becomes un predictably heavy because you're applying it in such crampt quarters.

I have plenty of balsa holding my 25-45% 3D models together. CF rods or stringers would be too narrow to brace lateral calpse of the box so a simple panel laminant would do.

May be I'll just post a picture since you may just not understand my description.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:30 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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United States, CA
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Su35 Crash in landing

Well here's my crash flight was good except for the crash. I'll never add a cam to the back end again. N e how like i said, i came in hot purposely (some might not think that cuz i do land hot often) to prevent the stall tendency that i encountered in the previous go around. You'll notice she started to stall and i was able to save her. The cam doesn't catch it the way i saw it from my eyes, lol! It seemed worse. However the 2nd go around was shaky also so i kept my speed up on touchdown and paid for it. One thing you'll find from me (not directed at anyone) is that i will post my good & bad flights, landings and crashes you learn from your mistakes and others. Plus didn't like this view after all so never again. Enjoy!

SU35 Crash (5 min 53 sec)
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:33 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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Could u pls post a pic Max, like your idea so whatever would be easier is the route I would like to go although I have FG cloth on hand and may need to buy balsa sheet (no biggy).
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Last edited by v8truckin; Aug 27, 2012 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:33 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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Thank's, I liked to know another in USA.
Hobbyking if they have em in stock.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Nice close up of the light post on the go around! Should retract that speed brake right away when you decide to miss the approach.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:09 PM
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I was wondering why use the speed brake before you had all wheels on the ground. I liked the POV of the cam. Maybe I'll try it cause my cam is feather weight though not as good at video quality.

EDIT: never mind I see in my last video the SU used the speed brake b4 touching down.
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Last edited by urrl; Aug 27, 2012 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:27 PM
Should've, Would've, Could've
v8truckin's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinfan View Post
Nice close up of the light post on the go around! Should retract that speed brake right away when you decide to miss the approach.
lol! Speed brake wasnt going threw my head at that moment, keeping her afloat, not stalling, and missing that pole was more than my brain could handle, lmao!

Urrl,

The speed brake I use is used to create drag while descending on approach without influencing lift as flaperon or spoilerons do. Since the street traffic is right around where I turn around for my approach I have to cut it short thus needing to slow down a lil faster, but maintaining some speed for the approach and clear the baracade on the streets end/beginning. There are air brakes that also act as speed brakes in touchdown but that's not the intention really if mine, that's why I have the drag chute.
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