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They are totally 2 different planes, so it all boils down to preference & some exp. Euro is a better 1st or 2nd while the Su35 is a 2nd or 3rd (I think min.) plane. Some have gotten it as a 1st plane and had success, but wouldn't really recommend that route. Like jandro, max, I , and others have em both suggest u do the same.
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United States, AZ, Tucson
Joined Nov 2010
2,777 Posts
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ugggh. its just ahrd for me to drop like 600-700 on two plane.... Considering that can buy me parts for my bigger planes. I fly a lot of composite EDF, or conventional high end #3D planes, along with some 165-180mph pylon planes. I just want the best cheap 3d foamy jet possible! lol
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High Orbit.....
Joined Jun 2009
4,941 Posts
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K well throughing the ball back in your court....
What specifically are you expecting from the model. Your question is like which is better the Extra 300 series or the Yak54. Many will say the 300 but you can do certain things more cleanly or easier with the YAk than the Extra. Because you mentioned 3D to begin with hopefully the replies are not on the big sky type flying or better quality but pure 3D ability..... Because you can get a higher TWR from the Euro which is smaller, has a lighter power train and by design has a higher rotational rate with less momentum lose all good for a certain range in 3D.... In fact I found mine was even better with the elevons going from root to tip. You have 3D turbine Euros, but I haven't seen a 3D turbine SU27 family.... Not sure why! The wing load and higher range of deflection of surfaces, while under power for the SU, you can do more inertia type 3D. But asking Jandro, who's displayed a number of mild 3D routines, specifics as to which has been harder or easier time to perform, walls, hover, flat spin vertically or inverted, etc. may your decision. You'll likely still get both as the answer because they both can do the manuevers but need slightly different approaches. So then it becomes what else they can do or simply which is a better size for you, simpler or which looks better to your eyes, the Russki or Euro.... I think we keep saying both because they are so close in jet foam 3D ability that it comes down to which do you think you like better for other reasons. |
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Jwm,
Here's another perspective on it. You crash the euro your buying a whole new airframe. If BH supplies the spare parts as the are indicating they will, then I would go the SU35 route. Another thing is what batteries are you going to use? If you have 4000mah 6s (euro) or 5000mah batteries (Su & euro), then that can play a factor as 5000mah is the lowest I would recommend for decent flight times. Soooo... There ya go, iny-miny-miney-moe! Is what a may end up. |
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Both are good for 3D, as previously said it's easier to fit more powerful and lighter setups on the Euro, and this one is THE BEST for high alpha purposes out of the box, but I've found that though it is a bit more technichally complex (In flight skill requirements), and a bit underpowered, the SU-35 frame can do things the Euro just can't dream of, and I have more flights on the Euro than on the SU. So each one has its own things, it pretty much personal preference.
Since it seems you are a veteran flyer I'd go for the Su-35 and add the RC Lander turbines, with 70 A Hobbyking Esc which are some 260$ more and you will have a monster 3D machine with even better TWR than Eurofighter. Though, as Max said, I'm flying it stock setup, and you can see in my videos that it can do lots of 3D in that setup. Ah, yes, and the flat spin is WAY EASIER to do with the Sukhoi! The vid we talk 'bout:
Cheers, and nice shopping! Jandro. |
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High Orbit.....
Joined Jun 2009
4,941 Posts
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Thanks Big J! Your the pilot so I didn't want to assume but you do seem to be able to do more with the SU. Just wasn't sure if one was harder than the other.
My ESCs just arrived so soon for me. Woohhhoooooo! Jwm, keep in mind this is jet 3D. I find a lot translates but these are heavier than the typical Extra/Edge/Yak. If you get those RCL counter rotating please document it. Initially we mentioned to many that they are needlessly heavy but so far I'm finding I have to move everything back. Like jandro mentioned I'm at the back of the battery tray, moved the RX battery in front of the ESC tunnel entrance and have my ESCs moved back and still have a hard time getting CG160mm. The Wemos are light so the RCLs may balance it out. For the power though they do have a slightly higher amp burn. Has anyone stepped the tube down to 56mm with a thrust tube? obviously not the CS-10. What results if any? |
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Or maybe Auto Slats ?
Quote:
Sounds like you need slats that come out automatically ( aerodynamically )..... Like the F 86, the Sabreliner, and some old plane called the Lysander...... |
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High Orbit.....
Joined Jun 2009
4,941 Posts
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Yes we took this discussion off line. The SU doesn't use slats. It has a drooped flap. The trouble with the Sabre type design for this model is you would need several scissor guides to keep the LE from twisting away at higher speeds.
Thus the diagram that I posted has the best of both worlds.... the entire lower edge can be CA hinged, simplest hinge there is, forward pressure would torque the form back to its neutral position and no further, and extended the servo rod or cable would move from pushing to under tension. A coupler would be on the actuator rod so that it would not be able to extend beyond a set limit and if the rod/cable collapsed it would still push the LE back to its neutral position. Thus preventing the possibility of the video posted a page back where a LE device could twist in the wind at full throttle and influence flight control. To it has to be very simple for Freewing to manufacture it or they won't both. Actually looking at my sample pic i should turn the LE servo around to follow the arc. So the servo should be moved further forward and reposition the servo arm 180. |
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