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Old Jun 27, 2012, 11:20 AM
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A couple of years ago, there were some series of DX6i that Spektrum put out a recall. Check with Spektrum to see if your serial number was included in those batches.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 11:35 AM
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I would also check the battery being used. I have had it where a new battery was intermittent while in flight giving the impression of signal loss due to RX brown out and recovery. After a couple of hits I checked everything out. Had the bat on the charger then wiggled the wires, squeezed it etc. The charger gave an alarm of lost connection? So I investigated and found one of the battery series leads had a bad solder joint that was intermittent. My friend also lost a T28 on maiden due to the same thing.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Ground testing my new SU today at the airport that is our flying site. I have the steering on a separate channel and is set up in three ways.
- When retracted the steering is disabled and enables on deployment.
- Mixed to rudder channel via a switch that in take off position reduces steering to 20% of full turn for super smooth high speed handling.
- In taxi position I get 120% full throws for tight radius turns. Both positions allow for left or right tuning via the off set trim setting. Works perfectly and will be updating all my fleet to this method.

Now the sad news....... Today I had everything setup and ready to maiden at the dry lake bed this coming Friday. My new Hitec elevator servos are coming today and would take care of the sloppy elevators. My fans are perfectly balanced and just hum like a turbine (well almost). So off to the field for taxi test. Got her all dialed in beautifully and she just wanted to take to the skys. I must say I was tempted!. However, being an old fart maturity got in the way and I just decided to do high speed taxis. So the steering is tracking really straight with no correction needed. I have 6000 ft of ash felt pavement on the nose with deep blue sky and a two knot headwind.

I advanced the throttles or donuts in the down mode as we used to say. She shot forward at 30% straight as an arrow. Did around 300ft and dropped the power. Put it in high turn rate and came back for second run. Off she goes again and then...... couple of hundred feet out the fans made a tone change?? So I bring her back on low crawl. Held her and powered up and got a lot of vibration. Sure enough I had either sucked a rock or the fans let go on the left motor. CRAP!!!!!!!!

So my Maiden is off for a couple of weeks until I can source new fans. So I have a question.

1 - Where can I get the stock fans from?

2- Should I just go ahead and put the 10 bladed fans in. I just got this about a week ago from BH so assume its the latest version. I have the gold and black motors which I assume are the higher KV ones. Will they work with the CS 10 fans? I have new 6S 5000 40C Zippy batteries that are just being cycled to break in.

If I go with the CS ten's what else do I need to change.?

Thanks much everyone I was hoping to lose my virginity this week but for now I'll keep it close on hand.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by scunna View Post
Hi urrl could you please give me your c of g and your throws for albatros, as i have bought the hobbyking one, thanx rod
I know the CG of my Albatross is 55mm to 60mm and that the factory setting CG is reported to be wrong and a guy crashed because of it. Check this thread beginning at this page:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1597119&page=6


I am wondering if there is a method of setting the alignment on the vector thrust nozzles. Right now I am setting them by line of sight, looking vertically down on them for rudder alignment and then looking from behind.

@kchen95:
My 1200mm wingspan Dynam Spitfire dove straight into the ground not 200 feet in front of me when I used the Spectrum Rx and Dx6i Tx combo. I only use the Tx with planes I don't care about any more. I am using a Walkera WK-2801 Pro Tx and Walkera Rx with my three jets and never a problem. I would also check the servos of the crashed aircraft. I crashed the Airfield F-15 and found a dead aileron servo. I repaired it with a new fuselage as I still love the carefree and easy way it flies.

Sorry to hear about that EDF mishap acesimmer
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Sorry to hear what happened. Thats the draw back with this plane when flying off grass or non paved runways/roads the intakes are close to the ground and suck stuff in.

Cs10 you'll have to change out motor and more than likely esc.

You can order replacement freewing CR fans from rc-castle.com
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 01:59 PM
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[QUOTE=urrl;22011717]
I am wondering if there is a method of setting the alignment on the vector thrust nozzles. Right now I am setting them by line of sight, looking vertically down on them for rudder alignment and then looking from behind.

There are marks on the tv cone that you can use to line them up. Should be a line on the top and side of each.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 04:27 PM
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I align my tv by a ruler or wooden plank. To make them the same angle is easy. The main question is what that angle to vertical should be. On Su-34 and MIG i use ~3 degrees up. Haven't flown 35 yet due to burned ESC.
Was actually surprised by BH service. They answered me in about a week. I made a video demonstrating the problem and a week after they've shipped replacement ESCs.
My understanding what happened was that one ESC had a faulty BEC which probably was drawing some current too. So, everything was working on just 1 BEC rated for 2-3A which finally gave up. 2 BEC in parallel is good as long as you know they both are working...
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by kchen95 View Post
It's possible that it's the receivers, but I just think it's odd that all three receivers would go bad all on the same day, whereas previously they were all fine (I've been flying all three planes, and many others, on these receivers for at least over a year). It just seems more likely that it'd be the radio... But, I truly am baffled...

Kevin
Most likely it's transmitter issue. Check antenna and do range check.
Also a 5000mAh battery between you and that tiny Orange RX receiver antenna might be enough if there's a poor reflection from the ground (tall crops, or land is dry)
The other thing is that DSM2 is a junk protocol. It choses 2 random frequences by scanning the range. If it's pretty noisy/full it may chose them very close to each other. A spike around one of them will knock out the second one too.
I had a notable signal loss in Dx7/Orange only once at about 300m flying on the community field. Probably due to someone's wifi as the stupid DSM2 can't predict what noise there will be 300m away during initialisation.
I really love T9X with Frsky telemetry: It shows signal strangth both ways and beeps when it gets low (you won't believe how many times you have a poor signal!). Helps to detect common issues like broken antennas, low receiver voltage or interference.

If you fly these expensive planes might be worth investing $100 into a reliable system. (I don't trust DSM2 anything more than 1kg of weight)
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 04:56 PM
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Thanks for that info. I see the white marks on the nozzles but mine are on the sides and bottom. They look already aligned thanks to my visual adjustments so less work for me.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 05:18 PM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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Sockrat,

Another reason why I use a receiver that has a satelitte or two. Those batteries and everything else can block signal.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 05:27 PM
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United States, NV, Fernley
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Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
Sorry to hear what happened. Thats the draw back with this plane when flying off grass or non paved runways/roads the intakes are close to the ground and suck stuff in.

Cs10 you'll have to change out motor and more than likely esc.

You can order replacement freewing CR fans from rc-castle.com
Thanks V8... Just ordered stock ones from Castle and getting 3 of each side. Also, just got back from Lowes and found a thin aluminum mesh with square spacings of about an 1/8th. Just have to figure the best looking way of installing. Will be doing fronts and cheaters. Also received the MG Hitecs you suggested so those will be going in tomorrow.

Just over at my neighbors place who has a big automated multi axis mill in his garage. He is thinking of manufacturing high quality oleos after I showed him mine. my main strut had oval threads from some wanker turning the thread by hand after snorting something or other. I usually make my own from aircraft aluminum which is twenty times stronger that the asian stuff.

Other than the above I should be ready to maiden once the new rotors get here.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 05:54 PM
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No, you can use the gold 2300kv motor on the CS10 fine,. It is a very good motor for them on 6S. I have my one good one (one came faulty) in a CS10 now for a plane, and have tested it and it has no excessive stress/heat problems. Though all motors get over-stressed in our uses anyway really!
2100kv/2200kv is typically a good area for cheaper motors in a CS10, but the gold 2300kv is a bit above average for 'cheapie' and thus can cope driving the CS10.
In the SU it gave approx 0.15Kg more thrust (per motor/fan) than my L2855-2100's I put in, and I would have liked to have both stock motors to use because that would take the total thrust to 3.0Kg - but that one was faulty. boo hoo.
The CS10 rotor/shaft etc fits fine straight into the stock housing, so it is a very quick and easy mod.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
No, you can use the gold 2300kv motor on the CS10 fine,. It is a very good motor for them on 6S. I have my one good one (one came faulty) in a CS10 now for a plane, and have tested it and it has no excessive stress/heat problems. Though all motors get over-stressed in our uses anyway really!
2100kv/2200kv is typically a good area for cheaper motors in a CS10, but the gold 2300kv is a bit above average for 'cheapie' and thus can cope driving the CS10.
In the SU it gave approx 0.15Kg more thrust (per motor/fan) than my L2855-2100's I put in, and I would have liked to have both stock motors to use because that would take the total thrust to 3.0Kg - but that one was faulty. boo hoo.
The CS10 rotor/shaft etc fits fine straight into the stock housing, so it is a very quick and easy mod.
Peter thanks for the info.... I assume that I have the 2300 KV's? Did you notice a big difference in current loading? If so what was it if you can remember.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 08:40 PM
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Yes, much higher current.
From memory something in the mid 50's for stock fan, but into the 60's for the CS10. Maybe like 55 goes to 63. Due to the much higher load they present... and all for pretty well no thrust gain really! Just better sound, of some degree. And whilst I hated the sound of the stock fan in videos I watched, in the Su's case the CS10 has not been as good a 'sound upgrade' as in other aircraft. This is because in a dual fan aircraft you are going to get harmonics of the two fan RPM interactions, and that is the worst part of a fans/motors sound you can have - and you don't get that in a single fan aircraft of course. So that greatly detracts from the other sound benefit of a CS10.
Something like.... the CS10, per fan side, gives a better sound (but not as good as in other airframes) but the harmonics of dual fans swamps that benefit out to a large degree.

You can drive CS10's adequately to get fairly good power with 'cheaper' motors (eg L2855, or this gold 2300kv) but they are not getting the RPM up to a high enough number to produce great 'whoosh' sound. I would think if you could get a few K more RPM, and also very well balanced (or maybe an alloy shroud too), it could get the CS10 great sound to be the dominant part, over the dual fan harmonics. This would need a motor of more true ability something like an appropriate HET.... AND if you were lucky it could do that higher RPM job for the same current (power) as the cheaper motors needed. Plus higher RPM means higher thrust, so you should gain something like 0.1 to 0.2Kg also (per side).

I have an Alloy housing with HET (2200kv) & CS10 coming soon, so I will be throwing that into one side of the Su to test. Theoreticaly I will get more thrust than the L2855, at a little bit less Amps too. But at $155 cost (per side) too !
I didn't get it for the Su, but of course I will test it in it. At $310 cost to fit a pair.... Way too much for even me to spend on such a plane!
So I will be sticking to the L2855's - but changing out to 2300kv instead of 2100kv I have now - with just stock CS10's and I will tune that up to the best I can get it. Mainly because even those, at about $100 total for motors, fans, ESC's to drive them, is enough (almost) to spend on a $300 plane.
I did buy a "Leopard" 2860 Inrunner to test (2060kv & $32), and though it is technically a much better motor (more towards a HET really), it didn't do any better than the L2855 and weighs 30g more - but it would last longer for sure, as doing that job is a walk in the park for it (not over-stressed notably like L2855's). You want 2200kv to 2300kv really, so the shortfall came from being just 2060kv, other wise it would have 'beaten' the L2855.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 08:43 PM
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Ace,
The Stock setup draws about 79A WOT on my average 6S battery. The Stock motor with CS will draw about 65A on one fan, for both maybe around 130A. That was the last reading on my watts meter.

For that Amps drawn with that additional 200 to 300g thrust, I think is not worth it. Its will reduce the flight time.
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