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Old Dec 23, 2011, 08:27 PM
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Captainhook1's Avatar
Swartz Creek, MI
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Build Log
Hun Hunter From Texas

Getting ready to go on the Top Flite P-51 ARC. It will be powered by a Quadra 52, Futaba 3010 servos, Robart gear and covered in 3/4 oz. glass. I was looking for something different than many of the other schemes I see regularly at the fields, so I have choosen the Hun Hunter from Texas. Fairly simple paint scheme and I've aways liked the D-Day invasion markings on WWII allied aircraft.
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Last edited by Captainhook1; May 10, 2012 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 06:34 AM
Hey Guys, Watch This.......
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USA, TX, El Paso
Joined Dec 2003
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I like it subscribed.
Mike
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 06:39 AM
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Traverse City, Michigan
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I'm in !

I need something to shoot at !!! LOL
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 03:04 PM
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Swartz Creek, MI
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Welcome aboard, Mike. Tom, you will need an A8 to keep up with me!

I have inspected the contents and the kit seems to be well built. May need to add a little more reinforcements to the firewall though. I will need to do a little filling before I apply the glass as some of the sheeting joint lines are not not what I would like to see before applying glass. The more I fill before glas will certainly mean less sanding after primer. Thought I had some 3/4 oz laying aroung but I must of sold it with my Z-B-25 a few years ago. So, an order to Ziroli for 10 yards of 1 oz will be in order.
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 06:07 AM
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Any updates?
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 11:05 AM
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Swartz Creek, MI
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Fiberglass was shipped this morning (finally), should be back at this by the end of this week.
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Old Jan 05, 2012, 06:45 PM
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Swartz Creek, MI
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Finally received my glass. I found some 3/4 oz. local here in MI. I am using Evercoat thinned with about 10% de-natured alcohol. This gives me a couple hours of pot life before the epoxy starts to thicken back up, and makes applying the epoxy easy. I use an old med card to get the excess epoxy off the glass, so there is minimal sanding between coats. Cure time is 24 hours before trimming excess glass, and fully cured in 2 to 3 days. I will likely add another coat, then use water based poly for filling the rest of the weave. Both wing bottom surfaces, bottom ailerons and one flap were done in less than an hour. I need to repair one flap before I cover it, so it will not be done until weekend.
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 05:57 AM
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Traverse City, Michigan
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Nice progress, Carey.

I don't completely fill the weave with epoxy, or poly c. I've been using high build primer to do the job. I feel that it is a lighter/easier, method.

We all develop our own methods, though. There is nothing wrong with yours.

I use this tool for sanding large, flat surfaces. It may interest you.
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Swartz Creek, MI
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This is my first attempt using water based poly as filler. Basically trying this method due to the fact the fumes will be minimal. I would normally prime as you do, however the temps outside this time of year doesn't allow me to do it. Plan on using the standard T-bar. Do you find an advantage using that tool? The weight of it looks to be an asset in sanding.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 05:09 AM
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Traverse City, Michigan
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I like the tool. It doesn't weigh much, probably the same as your T-bar.

I like to use automotive body repair techniques. Using this tool is one of them. Cost was $28.00. The sand paper is a $1.00 a sheet.

I have found, that with Poly C, applying thin coats is necessary. If it is applied heavy, it seems to take forever to dry, and gums up sandpaper.

I like to give Poly C a full week to dry, after the final coat. I have found that if you prime it too soon, moisture can be trapped under the primer, lifting it when the model is in the sun.

Just a few things that I want to pass on, since this is your first time using this product.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 07:12 AM
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Was it water based poly? Wounder if there is a difference in dry time and sanding character.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 07:57 AM
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Traverse City, Michigan
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Yup waterborne Minwax Polycrilic. Just apply thin coats. You won't have any problems. I glassed my Focke Wulf and Stuka with Minwax Polycrilic.

On my Cessna Airmaster, I've been experineting with the Minwax Polyurethane (oil base). I've just glassed a few parts, using 1/2 oz cloth. I did it yesterday, so I haven't had time to sand and prime the parts. I'll let you know how it goes.

Don Olsen has used the Polyurethane, glassing his big Hostetler Navion with it. He used auto high build primer, and auto paints. From the pics, his model is beautiful, so I expect to encounter few problems with this method.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Swartz Creek, MI
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We'll see how it goes. Should be interesting. I am covering the wing top surfaces today and have repaired the flap. Fuse may be done tomorrow, but will likely be next week. Still have that super sweet Stuka?
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Yup. The Stuka hangs safely above my work bench. One of these days, I'll have to see if she flies.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 05:44 PM
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Swartz Creek, MI
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Wings are glassed with one coat of epoxy.
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