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Old Dec 23, 2011, 11:46 AM
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Build Log
Cunny Canard

I'm going to build the Cunny Canard doubling the dimension of the original model. Although the wingspan is a mere 37,5 inch, the fuselage is surprisingly wide with plenty of space for batteries, servos and speed control.
I'm planning to maintain the same wing section and the same dihedral for stabilizer and wing as shown on the original plan; the intention is to have a moderately acrobatic model by installing servos for elevator, ailerons and rudders.
Although I’m guessing that 5° of incidence for the stabilizer is a bit excessive, I’m going to maintain it initially; it'll be easily possible to reduce after the maiden since I'll make the stabilizer removable.
I'm not sure which motor to use; the choice will be among the two in the picture; a light home made motor or a modified and rewind GWS 22/12/13T.
Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you all!
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 12:21 PM
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Alexandria, VA
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Well, that is really unique - and a clever use too! Do you have any ideas on using this concept for a plane? Just at first, I can't really think of any because you are left with all those holes.
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZook View Post
Do you have any ideas on using this concept for a plane? Just at first, I can't really think of any because you are left with all those holes.
The only application I may imagine at the moment is the possibility to easily make a NACA fairing or a motor cowl.
I'm afraid but I don't have a very lively mind and I can't actually figure out nothing better..

I worked a bit more on my canard. I'm finding more problems than I expected building this model so I'm mainly building sub assemblies at the moment, this gives me time to think up solutions.

I'm estimating a final weight of 450 grams which is quite a lot for a model of less than 1 meter wingspan and just 13 dm2!
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 11:14 AM
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One of the main advantage posting in a building thread is that I’m forced to clean up my workbench to take photos!
Something more done!
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 12:02 PM
Use your imagination....
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Turkey, Izmir, Seferihisar
Joined Oct 2007
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Beautiful construction.

Cem
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:03 AM
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My goodness! I did it!

I don't know how I could have done it, but today I discovered that I sheeted the central section of the tailplane 4 cm shorter than the fuselage saddle!
Too bad! This will delay a bit my progress and, luckily, I didn't replicate the error on the wing root!
I'm going to dislodge the sheeting and add two extra ribs to support the new covering.

Thanks Cem for your abatement. I wonder how the span of my model compares with the tail of your Jigé! I bet there's not much difference!
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 03:32 PM
Always building something...
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United States, NM, Farmington
Joined Oct 2005
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Guizzo 17

Interesting build, I'm subscribed. I just love canards. (Ducks... :0) )

Stan
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 12:04 PM
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Stan, I'm sure Kerswaps and Play Boys are great models but you may see them almost everywhere.
There are thousands of O/T plans and I prefer to choose among the usual ones.... At that this is my first “goose” model!
Mario
I cut the motor cowl out of foam this afternoon and I didn't care much to by precise since the cowl has double curvature and it requires quite a lot of sandpapering to reach the appropriate final shape.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 01:45 PM
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Some more steps made. Almost all the pieces are done and I need to fit them together. Thanks to the clear instructions Sundancer wrote on Mylar/Tissue covering, I'm going to cover my model using the same process. I need to apply the paper now.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 02:43 PM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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South-west France
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Looks really great, nice to see such an unusual shape so well built. Hope the covering goes well!
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 11:57 AM
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Thanks Sundancer! It's like running down the hill! I haven't had problems until now!
Not the first time I’m covering models with Mylar tough, but I used to glue it with diluted contact cement. I did what you suggested and I found that sticking Mylar to balsa with water based heath sensitive glue is definitely easier, less messy and less stinky! I actually use fabric glue which is easily available at the local haberdasher’s and -in my opinion- is Balsalock glue with different name and dispenser!
As soon as I have the tissue, I'm going to apply Esaky using Acrylic dope; it's too cold to stay outdoor now and I don't like breathing nitrate dope solvents!
I wander if you ever tried Acrylic dope.
I'm working on the canopy now, which is also the battery cover hatch. I don't trust on the plastic-wood glue joints and I prefer to saw the canopy to the former with polyester thread and than soak the thread and plywood with diluted white glue.
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 12:31 PM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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South-west France
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Hi Guizzo

I'm sure you are right about the fabric glue being the same stuff as Balsaloc. I used to use Evostik thinned with Evostik thinners before sale of the stuff was banned in the UK due to drug sniffing problems, but it did smell and you needed a well ventilated room to avoid getting "high"!

I have not tried Acrylic dope, is it a shrinking dope? My alternative has been to use water-based varnish sold here in France as a finish for wood floors; this doesn't shrink so I use a slightly different technique with this to my more usual nitrate dope finish, see http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457843. Of my last five models two have used nitrate dope (Tomboy and Mamba X2) and three the water based polyurethane varnish (Bantam, Tomtit X2 and Zephyr). Both work well but my impression is that the dope finish is rather lighter and, given the choice, I use it (I've only just managed to locate a decent source of supply of top class dope and thinners). I agree it does smell a bit though - my wife, after forty-odd years of smelling dope has now taken a dislike to it for some reason, she asked if it could be cancer causing. I had to reply that since I had been using it for sixty-five years and gone through countless gallons in that time, if it could I am definitely on borrowed time!

I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the acrylic dope.

Neat solution on the canopy by the way.

PS Glad to see that you are another of the large band of vintage modellers with a feline assistant - I have two!
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer View Post
Hi Guizzo

I'm sure you are right about the fabric glue being the same stuff as Balsaloc. I used to use Evostik thinned with Evostik thinners before sale of the stuff was banned in the UK due to drug sniffing problems, but it did smell and you needed a well ventilated room to avoid getting "high"!

I have not tried Acrylic dope, is it a shrinking dope? My alternative has been to use water-based varnish sold here in France as a finish for wood floors; this doesn't shrink so I use a slightly different technique with this to my more usual nitrate dope finish, see http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457843. Of my last five models two have used nitrate dope (Tomboy and Mamba X2) and three the water based polyurethane varnish (Bantam, Tomtit X2 and Zephyr). Both work well but my impression is that the dope finish is rather lighter and, given the choice, I use it (I've only just managed to locate a decent source of supply of top class dope and thinners). I agree it does smell a bit though - my wife, after forty-odd years of smelling dope has now taken a dislike to it for some reason, she asked if it could be cancer causing. I had to reply that since I had been using it for sixty-five years and gone through countless gallons in that time, if it could I am definitely on borrowed time!

I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the acrylic dope.

Neat solution on the canopy by the way.

PS Glad to see that you are another of the large band of vintage modellers with a feline assistant - I have two!
Well, it seems I wrote something wrong! The dope I’m using is non-shrinking polyurethane varnish for wood floors; the same stuff you use, just different brand!
Before applying Esaky over Mylar I tested the varnish and I found that the result was similar to colored transparent monokote, ( see first picture) not the veiled covering I expected and even if the bond among tissue and Mylar was fair, I was able to pull away the tissue without ripping it!
My decision now is to remove the Mylar from wing and stabilizer and cover them with polyspan. I won’t change the dope though, I already have used polyurethane dope over polyspan and definitely prefer this safer and odorless varnish to nitrate dope!
You know Sundancer, not all, and not only cigarette smokers die by cancer; quite sure we are on borrowed time but we may help a bit our fortune too!
I also have two dogs that are supposed to take care of the security of my workroom!

Since my last post I spent a considerable part of my time finding a professional pilot for the first test flights. I guess I have the right one now!
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