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Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon5 View Post
Interesting test. Not scientific in any way but kinda interesting. I took four pieces of the 1" blue foam cut in a 6" square and glassed one with 3/4oz cloth and west systems, the next with 2 oz cloth and west systems and the third just two coats of Styrospray and the fourth bare foam. After they cured for two days I tried to break them just with my bare hands. I was able to crack the bare foam kinda easy with just my hands, The 3/4oz glassed piec took a little effort but I was able to break it. But no matter how hard and with all my strength in my bare hands I could not crack the 2 oz glassed piece or the styrosprayed piece. I used 6" square pieces so I could only get so much leverage with just bare hands. Now I am sure if I realy put my mind to it and tryed busting over knee or something maybe I could get them to break...hey let me try that...
So in my estimation the two coats of styrospray increases strength somewhere in-between 3/4 oz glass and 2oz. Again not scientific just kind of a gee wis that's kinda cool test.

This is the same thing I've found with 1/2 inch pink foam, I still have the 4 inch pieces laying around somewhere.

How much of the StyrosSpray did you use to cover your fuse?
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:35 PM
Capt. Z
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
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Well my cheapo bakers scale that uses a spring in it and not realy sensitive enough for such small pieces said the bare foam was about 1/2 oz. and all the glassed and styrosprayed pieces showed the same about 1 oz. To get good numbers on weight I would prabbably need a better scale and do the test with bigger test peices like 2 foot square. But I guess you can get a ball park figure it seems to put on about the same weight as glassing with 2oz glass, give or take.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:45 PM
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pretty interesting stuff man. ill use 6oz cloth to reinforce my structure areas, but might give this foam stuff a shot....
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:46 PM
Capt. Z
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Originally Posted by erh7771 View Post
How much of the StyrosSpray did you use to cover your fuse?
Hard to say. I played around with the stuff for a couple days and practiced with it so hard to judge by whats left in the cans but when I did the fuselage I did the top first, let it dry then turned it over and did the bottom from two differant mixes and I had some left over after each mix, Then did the fron fuselage the same way yada yada yada....so I would guess maybe 4 dixie cups worth to do the whole fuselage. It does go a long way. You need to be on drip patroll for the first 20 minuets but I put the room at over 40% humidity with a portable humidifier ( Styro spary sets by useing moisture)so it would set faster and it did. Almost too fast But it turned out pretty nice, hard as a rock and I don't have to sand it or fill it. DONE!!ready for primer

Hey Brent..I will call ya and give ya the skinny on the styro stuff Man I wish we fly FSX this weekend but gota work..
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon5 View Post
Hard to say. I played around with the stuff for a couple days and practiced with it so hard to judge by whats left in the cans but when I did the fuselage I did the top first, let it dry then turned it over and did the bottom from two differant mixes and I had some left over after each mix, Then did the fron fuselage the same way yada yada yada....so I would guess maybe 4 dixie cups worth to do the whole fuselage. It does go a long way. You need to be on drip patroll for the first 20 minuets but I put the room at over 40% humidity with a portable humidifier ( Styro spary sets by useing moisture)so it would set faster and it did. Almost too fast But it turned out pretty nice, hard as a rock and I don't have to sand it or fill it. DONE!!ready for primer

Hey Brent..I will call ya and give ya the skinny on the styro stuff Man I wish we fly FSX this weekend but gota work..
Cool, no wonder mine took so long to dry I put it in the driest room in the house to test...took hours.

My "shop" is a 12x 14 spare bead room, you think one of those Vic humidifiers would work?
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by erh7771 View Post
Cool, no wonder mine took so long to dry I put it in the driest room in the house to test...took hours.

My "shop" is a 12x 14 spare bead room, you think one of those Vic humidifiers would work?
That's exactly what I used, the vicks unit.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 09:36 PM
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I can't tell in the picture, but is the cracked .75oz glassed foam - is it split on the bare foam side only, creasing toward a single sided glass layer? Or are both sides glassed?

PS - while I'm at it - have you had a chance to coat over bare wood glued to foam with the Styrospray? Does it swell the wood grain and can you see a difference in the surface at the junction of foam and wood if you don't seal the wood prior to application?
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 08:00 AM
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Andy, thanks for all the info and tests on that styro spray, looks very promising! Also, thanks for posting the info on your EuroFighter, that looks very cool, too bad you didn't do a thread on that one!!! w.
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Waltjg View Post
Andy, thanks for all the info and tests on that styro spray, looks very promising! Also, thanks for posting the info on your EuroFighter, that looks very cool, too bad you didn't do a thread on that one!!! w.
We're still workin on him for one though
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie P View Post
Falcon, can you tell me how much weight you gained in adding the surface finish to your fuselage? I'm really interested in this stuff. Not so much as a basic foam applicant, but something to "fill the weave" of my glassed foam surfaces. This may be the missing link for me if it's reasonably light. I like the idea of it. Filling weave with primer is light for sure but it's very fume intensive and requires several coats and is messy. I'd love to "roll on" a finish onto finished parts or put some into my HVLP spray gun and make some thin coats just thick enough to fill the weave of the cured cloth.

Both this coating and epoxy resin have the same weight per gallon. I know I can do a lot better weight wise using primer, but it's messy and more labor intensive. So maybe I've answered my own question...
You all may know this, but here is what I have been doing for years to fill my glass weave for finishing. I find true Talc Powder, and usually in foot, body, or baby powders. The second and only other ingrediant is fragrence. Shop around because you can find about a pound for less than $2.00, or 6 ounces for $4. Next mix some Talc in WBPU (I actually use Polycrylic by Minwax). I'd guess equal parts liquid and powder. I like a thick but paintable mix. It seems a bit weird to mix, but it does so well. Paint it over your glass, just a good even coat, spread it out not so thick, but even wetness. Dries pretty quick. Then sand it using something like 180 grit. It doesn't take much to sand it smooth by the way. Now ready to paint. If you use acrylics or Model Master/Tamya paints, won't need to prime if you put a couple drops of acrylic/craft paint in your initial mix.

Should try it. Quick, easy, light enough, sands well, and smells good while sanding. Talc was the magic ingrediant in sanding sealer back in the balsa, tissue/silk, and dope days.

Fred
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie P View Post
I can't tell in the picture, but is the cracked .75oz glassed foam - is it split on the bare foam side only, creasing toward a single sided glass layer? Or are both sides glassed?

PS - while I'm at it - have you had a chance to coat over bare wood glued to foam with the Styrospray? Does it swell the wood grain and can you see a difference in the surface at the junction of foam and wood if you don't seal the wood prior to application?
Hi Eddie,

Yep glassed only on one side and cracked on the bare side. With the 2oz and Styrospray I tryed breaking it on all sides and directions with no luck. My only experinace with the stuff is about the last two weeks with this plane, never tryed it on wood yet.

Thanks Walt..

Good info on the talc powder Freddie b, thanks

I Didn't do a build thread for the Euro and I didn't take many pics of it as it was just kind of intended as a test plane. Didn't make plans I just kinda scetched out the basic shape on paper and cut out parts. Flat plank style wings and away I went. I didn't think it would fly so dang good..
My plan is to build another one for the Vegas event in October and make that one a little nicer, with full thrust vectoring for super high alphas and other vectored assisted kind of manuvers and I can do a build thread on it if guys want.
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 11:06 AM
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OHYEAH!!!!! DO DO DO a thread on that next EuroFighter!!!! w.
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon5 View Post
Hi Eddie,

Yep glassed only on one side and cracked on the bare side. With the 2oz and Styrospray I tryed breaking it on all sides and directions with no luck. My only experinace with the stuff is about the last two weeks with this plane, never tryed it on wood yet.

Thanks Walt..

Good info on the talc powder Freddie b, thanks

I Didn't do a build thread for the Euro and I didn't take many pics of it as it was just kind of intended as a test plane. Didn't make plans I just kinda scetched out the basic shape on paper and cut out parts. Flat plank style wings and away I went. I didn't think it would fly so dang good..
My plan is to build another one for the Vegas event in October and make that one a little nicer, with full thrust vectoring for super high alphas and other vectored assisted kind of manuvers and I can do a build thread on it if guys want.
It would be something worth donating too via PP
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Chapel Hill, TN USA
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"I Didn't do a build thread for the Euro and I didn't take many pics of it as it was just kind of intended as a test plane. Didn't make plans I just kinda scetched out the basic shape on paper and cut out parts. Flat plank style wings and away I went. I didn't think it would fly so dang good..
My plan is to build another one for the Vegas event in October and make that one a little nicer, with full thrust vectoring for super high alphas and other vectored assisted kind of manuvers and I can do a build thread on it if guys want."


You're gonna need a big trailer!

J
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon5 View Post
Hi Eddie,

Yep glassed only on one side and cracked on the bare side. With the 2oz and Styrospray I tryed breaking it on all sides and directions with no luck. My only experinace with the stuff is about the last two weeks with this plane, never tryed it on wood yet.
OK, not trying to beat a dead horse but this makes sense, and is not necessarily a test that shows what .75 ounce glass cloth will do in a wing or aircraft structure. The .75 ounce cloth is only going to add strength to "tensile strength" - tensile strength is "resistance to pulling apart", not flexing or compressing. In other words you would have had a MUCH harder time breaking the foam where the tear or crack starts on the glass side, or if you would have glassed both sides it would have been extraordinarily strong (like wings are glassed on both sides for example). That's why .75 ounce cloth will be an extremely light yet strong additive for wings on both sides and fuselages as all exterior surfaces are covered with cloth. .75 ounce cloth is not so much of a dent resistor or a compressive strength adder like 4 ounce cloth starts to become, or the thick epoxy layer is, or a stiffener, like a spar is. That's not what the light weight glass cloth will do. But it will resist shear and tensile forces pretty well for the weight. Pound for pound, and used as a proper construction "layer", .75 ounce cloth is really a big bang for the buck.

Now at some point, more strength is needed so that's where progressive layers of light cloth or a heavier layer of cloth is used to great effect. Cloth layers can be added in shapes and weave bias layouts to add strength laterally, torsionally, etc.

PS! You convinced me to buy a 2 qt. kit - just ordered by phone right now (a very friendly bunch out in Houston). I have got to see this stuff for myself. My current foamie F-100 is gonna get a coat. Now I'm going back and forth on weather I will still glass it or not. I might skip the fuselage glass and just use this stuff for the fuse - and glass the wings and tail for an experiment. Who knows, I'll probably make my mind up on the fly.
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