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Old Oct 05, 2012, 03:36 PM
Jack of all master of none
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Baltimore MD USA
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Roddie glad to see you've made a start of it we've had a few new people join in since you left for your walkabout.
Well I continue to make pieces parts for the FLAP drive actuator and didn't drive to the LHS I'm going to use what I have on hand, there's still many mods. to make and I'll make changes as I go but I have the basic idea in play now. check out what I've come up with so far any body w/ good ideas on this subject speak up I'll always listen to intelligent ideas.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 06:38 PM
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United States, CA, Santa Barbara
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Bruce:

Flaps are looking good. One comment though: I can't tell for sure what you are planning, but the caption on one of the photos above indicates that the 3/16" rod will be soldered to the brass rib piece. Just a reminder: That rod appears to be your pivot point for the actuator, and it MUST be lined up with the rest of your hinges in order to operate properly. If you are planning on having the hinge pins in the scale locations (below the flap lower surface), then the actuator pivot point must be also below the lower surface of the flap. Thus the rod cannot be directly attached to the brass rib (unless you bend a crank in it like is shown on the plans). If you examine the sketch of my actuator, you can see that the pivot point is below the "U" shaped wire joiner. The latter inserts into the leading edges of the flap sections, and the pivot point is below the flap lower surface and in line with the hinge pins. This portion of the actuator is contained within the nacelle, so it is not visible externally.

It could be that I'm just misinterpreting what you are doing, in which case ignore everything I said above.

I continue to be amazed at the rapid progress you make in a given day, and the workmanship is outstanding.

Tom
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:56 PM
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Thanks Tom it's hard to tell just what I'm doing yet and this is because I'm figuring it as I go with your drawing and Brians drawing and my own twist added in.
I see what your talking about keeping the hinge line w/ the main part of the actuator and then there will be a wire like on Brians drawing that will solder to the triangles.
If I can pull it off there are so many variables in this setup, I'm trying to make it simple but I'm not sure if I'm doing that yet.
I kept working this evening and made a horn out of sheet brass and a wheel collar this will give me a set screw for adjustment. the steal music wire running through will be cut down once I know how big I need it to be.
And the bearing brass plate will get a bend in it and mount opposite coming from the aft end, I'll get some photos of this tomorrow so you can understand better.
So take a look at this latest add on, now I have to make another horn and get the correct bend in these parts.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 04:44 PM
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I didn't get much done today had family things going on but I told you I would take a photo to show how I was going with this.
First I added the AFT center section of the nacelle and then bent the actuator pivot,
these photos are taken with everything loose just to show how I might do this.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 06:30 PM
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Alright guys I continue to work slowly on the FLAPS can anyone tell me why Brian has rib 4B set off of the edge of the FLAP inboard side next to the nacelle? Is this a scale feature that he has put into his plans or does it serve a purpose?
I know there's a few of you following this build that have already built this plane. it seams to me that this would hold up better if it were solid?
Any help would be appreciated.

Bruce
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:51 AM
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Starting to cut in for the hinge points and I still can't figure out why there's a set in on the one rib I was talking about be for, photos later in the day.

Bruce
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splinterz25 View Post
Alright guys I continue to work slowly on the FLAPS can anyone tell me why Brian has rib 4B set off of the edge of the FLAP inboard side next to the nacelle? Is this a scale feature that he has put into his plans or does it serve a purpose?
I know there's a few of you following this build that have already built this plane. it seams to me that this would hold up better if it were solid?
Any help would be appreciated.

Bruce
Bruce,

If you look at post 5 in my restrospective build log you will see I had some issues here. As the hinge line is offset etc then I think the gap closes up between the rib 4B and the side of the nacelle rib as the flap opens, hence the offset on the rib 4B. However, when it was done, my rib 4B did not close at the top, I may have had it angled wrong, I am not sure but it is an odd area where I had some issues. My work around was to add some 1/64" ply to cover the gap. Can not help you much mroe than this.

Peter.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Thanks peter....Maybe I can get Tom Wolf to show this section on his 81" Mossie?

Bruce
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:49 PM
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TRWolf ...Tom I know you have told or shown me your build of you mossies I can't remember where
it is could you give me a link to the area that shows the hinging and the the actuator being installd this would be tremendous help. I think I'm on the right track now but would like to get some reference points and clearer thoughts.

Bruce
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:40 PM
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Hey Bruce:

I've been out of town a few days, and just got back. Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos during my builds that show the flap actuator installed. And now that both of the planes are complete, that area is completely hidden. However, the flap hinging is shown in my post on page 67 of this build log.

Regarding your questions about the flap fit, the outboard edge of the inboard flap closes with the rib at the inside edge of the nacelle as the flap is deployed, so it must be relieved to allow free movement. Taylor's plans are completely unclear on this issue. The main problem is the upper forward part of the flap, which must be beveled to clear the nacelle rib. Unfortunately this bevel will result in a gap at the top when the flaps are up, which is pretty unsightly. So what I did was use thicker stock (1/4") for the rib at the inboard edge of the nacelle and relieved the middle forward portion of that rib. The outboard edge of the inboard flap is also relieved somewhat at the top and forward portions, mainly where the leading edge stock is. I included a 1/64" plywood access panel that overlaps the upper skin of the flap slightly (about 1/8"), and thus covers the gap required to allow for clearance. This overlaped panel is scale: See photos of the full size plane in this area. Taylor's plans also show this. I've attached a photo of my larger Mosquito that shows the overlap and it's contour. This overlap is part of the flap actuator access panel on the full size airplane. I simulated this access panel with a piece of 1/64" plywood that is glued to the top surface of the wing. That dotted line offset for rib 4B was intended to accommodate this overlapped panel and allow the top of it to be flush with the top skin of the flap, but I simply allowed the 1/64 ply to rest on the top surface of the flap when the flap is fully up, and it looks just fine.

I can't get a close up photo of this area because the wings are bagged and the entire airplane is in the trailer that I transport it in. The next time I have it out and assembled will probably 2-3 weeks from now, which will be too late to help you with this part of the build.

Your flap actuator is looking good. Pretty much along the lines of what I built for my airplane.

Tom
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:54 PM
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Thanks Tom ...I'm going to continue on my way if you see me doing any thing that's way off please advise. I see what your talking about w/ the 1/64" ply wish I had some can't seem to find any in small amounts, I'll come up w/ something though.

Bruce
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Yet more outstanding workmanship Bruce, keep it up !
Here is an attachment (if it works) of some more pics of the Mosquito.
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