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Old Mar 15, 2013, 08:14 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,147 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luzertof View Post
Hey guys,

my six month old 808 #16, which I rarely used, stopped working.

...
The problem:
The orange light is always on. The video should start recording by itself when power on, however, it doesn't. It's also not possible to start the video or make photos manually. It's like the shutter key doesn't respond.

When I connect the camera to the computer and press the power key, the red light turns on, then the orange LED starts to light constantly. That's it. No reaction.

If I pull out the SD-Card the orange light stays on - no blinking at all. If I start the camera without a SD-Card inserted at all, the same. Just a constantly lighting orange LED.

I've also done a reset via the reset-Button when the camera was turned off and when it was turned on. When I did so when it was turned on, it automatically turned off. After starting again the same problem occurs as described above.

Loading the camera seems to work - the green light goes on.

Also, as said, making a sysfile worked, so the power and shutter keys must be physically working.

What to do now? Should I try to re-install the firmware? Or must I open the case? I'm not very good with such things, so I hope somebody knows some magic. Googling the problem hasn't lead me to an answer.
...
The symptoms you describe sounds like what happens when the CMOS module is not being detected when the camera first boots up. This can happen if the ribbon cable has managed to become loose in the socket. It's held in place by a sliding or hinged plastic "clamp" piece on the socket. These clamp pieces are very fragile, and two different socket styles have been used in the camera, so be sure you know which you have before prying on the clamp piece (there are pictures of these posted here within the last 2-3 weeks) It's not likely the cable works loose without some kind of physical shock, but stranger things have happened. You'll need to open the case to investigate this... tips linked here. Note that part of the process is to first disconnect the battery. Sometimes on rare occasions this alone can unfreeze a camera that is "locked up". But you'll likely have to loosen the three tiny screws that secure the circuit board to the case in order to fully remove the battery plug from it's socket.

Good luck.

I assume you have fully charged the internal battery until the green LED goes out.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 10:11 AM
Ascended Master
Sparky Paul's Avatar
Palmdale, CA
Joined Oct 2000
13,353 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtz View Post
I like the 808 because I can use it in all these 3 situations:
1. fly recorder on my heli (when not driving the car)
2. car dvr (dash cam) in my car (almost all the time, working in motion detect mode)
3. normal recording but only with my cap-cam (hat-cam).

If you are planning to use the 808 only as Car DVR, maybe is better to use a dedicated camera like this.

enjoy,
Mtz
.
I do that too, with mine. Flying, driving (on the dash) and riding (on the helmet).
Marvelously useful little things.
.
The dash cam..
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Last edited by Sparky Paul; Mar 15, 2013 at 10:32 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 10:20 AM
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Joined Mar 2013
38 Posts
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
All you need to do is note the time and you'll find the clip almost immediately. I would think just as fast (or nearly as fast) as finding a read-only file. This assumes, obviously, that your camera's clock and your watch is in sync with the computer's time. The camera's time will be synced correctly if you use the GUI.
all true, I may consider buying one after all.... besides my shift maybe 13-15 hours sometimes, but actual driving is never more than 10 hours, legally forbidden....
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 10:26 AM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtz View Post
I like the 808 because I can use it in all these 3 situations:
1. fly recorder on my heli (when not driving the car)
2. car dvr (dash cam) in my car (almost all the time, working in motion detect mode)
3. normal recording but only with my cap-cam (hat-cam).

If you are planning to use the 808 only as Car DVR, maybe is better to use a dedicated camera like this.

enjoy,
Mtz
thanks, I am on that forum as well, started a topic about cell phones as dash cams. I have a phone that records 1080p in 30fps nicely with built in camera app, and has manual exposure compensation built in to compensate low light situations, but third party apps don't get the full frame rate, and I can't figure out how that's possible. I mean 15 fps is not good enough.

If anyone here has anything positive info on that please PM me as it is off topic of course.

DJ
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 11:23 AM
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Joined Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtz View Post
5. good idea, but still need a suction cup

enjoy,
Mtz
maybe one of these: see attachments.

1st one is a Joby, got that from S-Korea for 15 euro sent (!). I use it for my phone, has nice rubber pads in the forks insides. The 2nd one is a Chinese no name phone holder clip, should cost around 5-10 bucks, but is not as steady as the Joby, and probably lives a lot shorter.

A 120 degree should fit nicely through the 2 forks on the Joby. If you use standard lens the forks may block the view to the sides, but I'm not sure.

The suction cup costs around a buck and a half....

B.T.W. have a look at this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261143917573

Someone may find it useful info I hope.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 11:50 AM
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northenden, manchester, england
Joined May 2009
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sorry if this has been asked thousands of times before, so here goes, i want to use the cam as my fpv cam, and wondering if i run the camera off an 800 mAh lipo with a UBEC between the lipo to drop the V to 5, do i have to remove the internal lipo, or can i just leave it in the camera

cheers
carl
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 12:48 PM
not running for the exercise
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Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doggit View Post
sorry if this has been asked thousands of times before, so here goes, i want to use the cam as my fpv cam, and wondering if i run the camera off an 800 mAh lipo with a UBEC between the lipo to drop the V to 5, do i have to remove the internal lipo, or can i just leave it in the camera

cheers
carl
Leave it in the camera and feed 5V to the USB socket. See FAQ in Post No. 3 in this thread.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 01:30 PM
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northenden, manchester, england
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cheers airmob
carl
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 02:13 PM
Graham Dyer
pardus's Avatar
Johannesburg, South Africa
Joined Jul 2003
698 Posts
Is there some software or other method to accurately measure or count the FPS (frames per second) of videos taken with this camera?
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 02:20 PM
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Joined Jun 2012
4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The symptoms you describe sounds like what happens when the CMOS module is not being detected when the camera first boots up. This can happen if the ribbon cable has managed to become loose in the socket. It's held in place by a sliding or hinged plastic "clamp" piece on the socket. These clamp pieces are very fragile, and two different socket styles have been used in the camera, so be sure you know which you have before prying on the clamp piece (there are pictures of these posted here within the last 2-3 weeks) It's not likely the cable works loose without some kind of physical shock, but stranger things have happened. You'll need to open the case to investigate this... tips linked here. Note that part of the process is to first disconnect the battery. Sometimes on rare occasions this alone can unfreeze a camera that is "locked up". But you'll likely have to loosen the three tiny screws that secure the circuit board to the case in order to fully remove the battery plug from it's socket.

Good luck.

I assume you have fully charged the internal battery until the green LED goes out.

Hello Tom,

thanks for your answer.

I have removed the battery now. However, all other things like cables are on the downside of the camera (I have the big lens version) and I can't take out the motherboard of the plastic camera case or at least don't think I can manage this without causing (more) damage.

I'll try to get it back alive tomorrow with the battery over night kept outside.


There was also no physical damage since it worked last. It was put in place in the car all the time and the car wasn't moved. Strange thing. :/
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 03:35 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,147 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luzertof View Post
Hello Tom,

thanks for your answer.

I have removed the battery now. However, all other things like cables are on the downside of the camera (I have the big lens version) and I can't take out the motherboard of the plastic camera case or at least don't think I can manage this without causing (more) damage.

I'll try to get it back alive tomorrow with the battery over night kept outside.


There was also no physical damage since it worked last. It was put in place in the car all the time and the car wasn't moved. Strange thing. :/
My mistake for not remembering that the circuit board has to be fully removed to access the ribbon cable plug! But it lifts right out once you remove the three tiny screws. There's one front left corner, one middle of right side, and one near the rear left corner.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 03:38 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pardus View Post
Is there some software or other method to accurately measure or count the FPS (frames per second) of videos taken with this camera?
If you have a Windows PC, simply right click on the file icon, then click "properties" and select the "details" tab. For normal video recording, I've never seen anything other than 30 fps. Of course, if you toggle one of the camera's slow frame rate modes, you get less, and those can vary a tiny bit from the set frame rate.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Mar 15, 2013 at 03:41 PM. Reason: added slow frame rate setting info.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 04:55 PM
The Android Developer
Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Mar 2012
408 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirkzelf View Post
hi all, ...
4) I read somewhere about an Android version? Was that for the #16 or #18, I can't recall. How would that work, because my phone is Android, so there may be great advantages there, an I tell you, not only for me...! If we could somehow connect the video out to our phone's to see live what it's recording, or just to change settings with our Android phone over USB (would need to be HOST of course, mine isn't host... ) or WIFI/Bluetooth .......... How cool would that be, let alone useful!! ...
For all information related to Android Configuration Assistant, please see Android support page. Under Requirements, there is a list of devices supporting aMCA; that will certainly be useful to anyone interested.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 05:38 PM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
My mistake for not remembering that the circuit board has to be fully removed to access the ribbon cable plug! But it lifts right out once you remove the three tiny screws. There's one front left corner, one middle of right side, and one near the rear left corner.
Thanks for the instructions, Tom.

The cable seemed well connected, however, I removed it and put it back in again - about one or two minutes after I removed it. Battery was removed several hours ago...

After reconnecting the battery I still have the same problem - the red LED blinks, then the orange LED lights constantly. Nothing happens if I click the Shutter-Button.
I can still turn off the camera with holding Power-button.

So, summary:
1) Battery works
2) I can make the camera on and off
3) I can create the sysfile with holding Power+Shutter buttons, so both work

4) no connection to computer possible
5) no error blinking if SD-Card is removed
6) no auto-start of video like it did before when Power enabled
7) no manual control of video or photo function


This seems all like a software problem (most probably one I'm not responsible for), not a hardware one. Or am I wrong?


Is there something I can do? Or is the camera destroyed?
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 06:44 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,147 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luzertof View Post
Thanks for the instructions, Tom.

The cable seemed well connected, however, I removed it and put it back in again - about one or two minutes after I removed it. Battery was removed several hours ago...

After reconnecting the battery I still have the same problem - the red LED blinks, then the orange LED lights constantly. Nothing happens if I click the Shutter-Button.
I can still turn off the camera with holding Power-button.

So, summary:
1) Battery works
2) I can make the camera on and off
3) I can create the sysfile with holding Power+Shutter buttons, so both work

4) no connection to computer possible
5) no error blinking if SD-Card is removed
6) no auto-start of video like it did before when Power enabled
7) no manual control of video or photo function


This seems all like a software problem (most probably one I'm not responsible for), not a hardware one. Or am I wrong?


Is there something I can do? Or is the camera destroyed?
It could be a hardware problem. The camera must sense a valid CMOS module during it's boot-up sequence or it will do exactly what you are describing. The firmware never gets executed and the camera will lock up. If you don't have another working camera you can use to try a different module, there's no way to check this other than buying a new module... $10-12US (delivered), depending on which lens comes with it. Not a very attractive option if it turns out to be some other failed component.

If you have not tried installing the FW again, do so, though you'll have to copy the FW to the memory card manually with a card reader rather than the camera. The boot loader is the first thing that runs when you turn the camera on, and if it finds new FW, it will load it... before the FW or other startup functions ever get executed.
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