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Old Jan 11, 2013, 05:14 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Royal Tunbridge Wells
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Originally Posted by Azuritko View Post
Maybe there is some electronical commponents which do not like magnets, but I do not hear yet which one exactly. Someone maybe can tell.
Yes, inductors will be affected, but if there were any in the circuit to be affected you would see immediately.

I did state earlier that SD cards or any flash technology will not be affected, but that seems to have got missed.

The only thing in the camera that might be adversely affected is the microphone, but I don;t believe that's anyone's concern.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 05:21 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Royal Tunbridge Wells
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Originally Posted by HTTom View Post
You can also get them in various lengths. Mine are 200mm. The longest I saw was 250mm. For longer lengths just join more than one together.
I would be very surprised if you didn't find that using a cable over a certain length will cause the camera to fail as you will start to have problems with clock timing (circuit wise, not the real time clock)
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 02:04 AM
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South Africa, GP, Johannesburg
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Wonder if someone could help..
I just downloaded the latest software on my new v2...
When I try and write a config file to the camera from either GUI, I get a success message but when I load the config file again the default values are back.. For example if I change the video out to on, it stays configured to off when I load it again... The camera also does not output video...
It's almost s if the config file is read only... And can't be written to.. Anyone experience the same or have a solution?
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 04:16 AM
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I seemed to have solved the problem... U need a battery connected when updating the config file... I'm using the camera as an fpv camera and it mostly does not have a battery connected to it...
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 04:21 AM
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South Africa, GP, Johannesburg
Joined Dec 2011
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I seem to be having a problem with the video output on my fpv monitor.. There seems to be some kind of rolling interference ... Almost like a sync issue...I have soldered a cable from pin 4 to my video transmitter and am using a common ground... It seems to have gotten better once I upgraded to the latest MOV firmware and changed the fpv out to 16:9 and PAL..
Are there any other settings I can tweak to get a better video out picture?
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 05:58 AM
Mtz
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Romania, PH, Ploiesti
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by fmimages View Post
Great idea. I like it. I just bought those magnets today but after reading about what it can do to electronics earlier ... I'll stick to velcro!
Yes, but my idea is better than velcro even if you need a little more work to do.
You can use a nice hat, not an old-damaged one, because when camera is not there that small piece of elastic band is invisible and you can still wear it everywhere.
And also I like to keep my camera as new and looking nice. This was the first reason to invent that system. You can see here a video (excuse my bad english) resulted when wearing the hat and using my hands. Keepin my hands free was the second reason.

enjoy,
Mtz
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Even when in the Auto WB mode, the colors are pretty stable and natural to my eye, ESPECIALLY when compared to the #11! Some people like more saturation, but that is a separate adjustment that is available.

BUT, if you point the camera at the sky with not much in view other than blue cloudless sky, the WB will react and change to a gray sky!. When panning back down to ground scenes it will recover back to normal... sometimes within a second or so... sometimes taking maybe 5-10 seconds. But if you keep a small portion of your scene on ground objects, you can avoid this even with auto WB set.

BUT, you can also lock the WB, and most who do pick the "fluorescent" setting, sometimes varying the contrast or saturation to their eye's liking. I don't think this gives as accurate color rendition, though. You will have to shoot some clips to see what your eye prefers. The "daylight" and "cloudy" settings add a bit of coloration (mostly a "warm" hue) that is not as accurate as the auto settings to my eye. Many of the color settings still need some tweaking... maybe in a FW update in the not-to-distant future?

p.s. Here's a video link I shot with the #16 with D lens and auto WB setting a week ago while doing some XC skiing. In shady scenes with bright sun in the distant objects, I got some very warm color shifts for a brief period here and there, so this was something new for me (so was the XC skiing for that matter!). It's a boring 11 min. clip, so advance the timeline slider ahead to 8:40 and you'll see one such color shift in one scene. But at least this might give you an idea of what to expect with the D lens and auto WB in bright sun and snow scenes. Perhaps someone else can post a link to some bright snow scenes with some of the fixed WB settings for comparison.
I tested all white-balance settings and i think fluorescent and auto have nearly the same colors. So I will lock the white balance to fluorescent. Then I have no color shifting and can adjust the colors in post processing. I think that's the best solution.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 09:34 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Forest Row
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Can someone help pleaaase

I have changed the camera lenses fron stock to 120 deg. ( #16 camera ) and some of the area are going dark. Yes there is not much light here in uk ( the land of darkness middle ages ) but when the plane banks it almost goes all dark. Have a look at the second part of this video

FLYING HIGH AND LOW (3 min 18 sec)
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 11:01 AM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by Mikbaci View Post
Can someone help pleaaase

I have changed the camera lenses fron stock to 120 deg. ( #16 camera ) and some of the area are going dark. Yes there is not much light here in uk ( the land of darkness middle ages ) but when the plane banks it almost goes all dark. Have a look at the second part of this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUYjp...jpO1reeV90JpJQ
The only solution is to use the GUI tool and increase your exposure setting to "light" or "lighter" in the Advanced Image Settings tab. The camera's auto exposure averages the light over the entire scene to set it's exposure. So when there is more brighter sky than darker ground, it will decrease the exposure time to compensate. This makes the already darker ground look even darker. The already low lighting doesn't help, either. The reverse is true when there is more darker ground than brighter sky. The exposure settings I mentioned increase the average exposure set point the camera uses, so will make everything look lighter, both ground and sky. This will over-expose the sky and wash out any detail, but since you are interested in seeing what's on the ground, it should help with that.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The only solution is to use the GUI tool and increase your exposure setting to "light" or "lighter" in the Advanced Image Settings tab. The camera's auto exposure averages the light over the entire scene to set it's exposure. So when there is more brighter sky than darker ground, it will decrease the exposure time to compensate. This makes the already darker ground look even darker. The already low lighting doesn't help, either. The reverse is true when there is more darker ground than brighter sky. The exposure settings I mentioned increase the average exposure set point the camera uses, so will make everything look lighter, both ground and sky. This will over-expose the sky and wash out any detail, but since you are interested in seeing what's on the ground, it should help with that.
Thanks I will try this. And let u know
Mik
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 01:16 PM
mCPx
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Vancouver, Canada
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I've tried all white balance settings in sunny to overcast days and I think I'll settle with auto for now because with other settings I either et too warm or too cool. I also bump saturation to max and I like it that way. Default exposure is actually not bad.

These clips are running such settings. Even when shooting at the sun exposure is not bad at all.
My Blade 130X Flight #1135 Trying to Keep Friend's 130X in Frame [Mid-Air at the End] (5 min 8 sec)

My Blade 130X Flight #1134 Onboard View of Friend's 130X and Aerial Footage (4 min 18 sec)
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 04:08 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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I've had some problems with the camera turning off while recording. Could it be due to the cold wather?
I think I had this problem in warmer weather as well, but I don't remember exactly.

The last time I had the camera on the plane the camera was off when I landed, I started it again and the yellow led just kept flashing like I was recording, if I changed to the camera mode and back to video it would keep flashing yellow.
The only thing that seemed to fix it was to plug it in to my computer, then it worked fine. I got only 30 seconds of video before it was turned off.

I have the latest firmware. I've had this issue with 3 different firmwares.
Could it be becuase of the weather? It's around -5 to 0 degrees celcius, and it gets a little colder when flying of course.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 04:43 PM
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Slovakia
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I have tested A-data 16GB class 10 micro SDHC card. Camera records for almost 40 minutes. So it works great.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
What frame sizes are you comparing? Also, what data rate are you using for what you refer to as "stored on SD"? When the data rate is set for 7 Mbps with camera recording with 1280x720 HD frame size, the average data rate is normally around 52 - 53 MB/min. Maybe you use the 10 Mbps setting to get the 60 MB/min? Anyway, is the data being sent by USB from the webcam mode?

If you are comparing the same frame sizes, the H.264 video codec is about 3-4 times more efficient in compressing files than the MJPEG codec used by webcam mode, but that's still a long way from 10 times. And does the webcam mode use a constant data rate or variable (I haven't looked at a recorded clip from web cam to see the data rate histogram). If the data rate is variable, you might run into other problems when it spikes up over the 11Mbps limit of your hardware.
I compared the framesize of usb webcam and sd storage. I used cam #3 and therefore are the huge difference between the 2 modes. USB webcam output is rgb(uncompressed i think) of sometimes even 1GB/min. I also tested cam #9 with MJPEG usb webcam output with 720x480 and about 50MB/min.
For transmission i will get a new wifi-modul(up to 22 Mbps) to handle the pikes in the variable datarate. So the problems in transmission are annull I think.

I am going to offer a #16, but need to know what resolution is in webcam mode?

At ChuckLohr.com I found a modification of #3 to output debug information in UART. Does it mean to access the camera (take picture, start/stop video, webcam mode,...) and is this on #16 available?

The #16 has a CMOS connector. Is it possible to extent the flexcable or install another CMOS cam with longer cable?

Many questions I know. So thank you for attend to
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 09:10 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjur View Post
I've had some problems with the camera turning off while recording. Could it be due to the cold wather?
I think I had this problem in warmer weather as well, but I don't remember exactly.

The last time I had the camera on the plane the camera was off when I landed, I started it again and the yellow led just kept flashing like I was recording, if I changed to the camera mode and back to video it would keep flashing yellow.
The only thing that seemed to fix it was to plug it in to my computer, then it worked fine. I got only 30 seconds of video before it was turned off.

I have the latest firmware. I've had this issue with 3 different firmwares.
Could it be becuase of the weather? It's around -5 to 0 degrees celcius, and it gets a little colder when flying of course.
Cold weather can do it, as can a partially charged battery or a battery that's failing.

Also, I'd reformat the card using the camera's internal formatting routine if you haven't already done that.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 12, 2013 at 11:33 PM. Reason: added comment about formatting.
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