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Old Dec 28, 2012, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Metman View Post
I was using Nr16Setup

Thanks.. Fred
I believe your camera is functioning perfectly, but unfortunately not how you want it to

Fire up Nr16Setup and let it sit waiting. Camera must be disconnected!
Put in the card and briefly touch the power button. The camera should now do it's fast blinking stuff and after about ten seconds the red LED will flash once.
So far, so good.
Now, remove the card.
Press the power button for about 2-3 seconds until the yellow LED turns on. It should then start to blink slowly.
As soon as it starts to blink put in the card, wait until the yellow LED turns on, and then connect the camera to the PC. You should now see your camera recognized by the GUI. Select the card and the GUI should pick up from there and automatically delete the firmware file for you.

Note1: Once the camera starts to blink, you have max. 30 seconds to insert the card and connect the camera to the PC. If you wait too long the camera will automatically turn off and you'll have to repeat the process.

Note2: If ever the yellow LED blinks like crazy, the camera is updating the firmware. You must never, ever interrupt this process. ALWAYS wait at least 10 seconds every time the yellow LED does it's fast blinking.
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Last edited by Isoprop; Dec 28, 2012 at 02:59 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by qsgsg View Post
I've used The windows GUI program provided here. I'm on version 0.49. Lens B. One video was accidentally triggered and captured in my pocket and the other was a day trip on my car dash board.

EDIT: Attached the sysconfig file and file size pictures.
I tested the 70 minute parameter using the default settings and you are correct!

I remember this issue being reported a long time ago, but I thought it had been corrected.
The problem only happens with the AVI firmware and is because the firmware understands the 70 min parameter as 30 min.

In the very early days there was a 30 minute parameter, so most probably the developer forgot to correct the value.

I don't think it's a big deal and expect the developer to correct the issue in the next firmware release, unless it slips thru again
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:48 AM
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One additional suggestion to compliment all the great hard work that's been done here:
The new 4:3/16:9 options for video out are very appreciable, however a 3rd one would be welcome: a "4:3 crop" mode.
Currently 16:9 gives nice full screen on native 16:9 monitors. 4:3 gives the full picture and no distorsion on 4:3 monitors, but loses screen area to the black bars. It would be nice to have that 4:3 crop mode, where the video shows full screen on a 4:3 monitor (FPV goggles being the usual suspect), by cropping the sides instead of adding bars on top/bottom.
Immersion is better if no screen space is wasted, and with the D-type lens the reduced horizontal FOV will still be more than enough to fly.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:03 AM
Lee
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Herc Pusher 63" with 808 #16D (5 min 20 sec)
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricky971 View Post
Thanks a lot, Fishycomics.
I'll follow Your suggestions: also with my Canon photo camera, when I want to take good pictures, I set it in the most neutral solution and with RAW file, then I work on the file with Photoshop.
In this camera files are compressed, so it's normal to loose some informations about color and light, but this is a reason more, IMHO, to keep neutral colors.
Years ago, they say every time a j file was opened, loss of quality. I agree using a real camera, will get best results, using this gadget camera will get you the shots you want, any way, fashion, and form,

glad I was helpful in a way or two, thank you.

FISHYCOMICS
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fmimages View Post
I am getting an image that looks like a white sheet was put in front of the lens. I have cold booted it and blew some air about the lens. It used to make very good images but it has been sitting unused since May until I got the camera bug gain. My previous post was two videos made with v2 D lens and they are quite good in my opinion. I also recorded the same setup with my first 808 camera but the video is 25 minutes long so I hesitate to post. I just ordered another camera but with the B lens as I don't like the curvature of horizontals. From reading some previous posts the A lens is the most natural. I put a lens shade on it and it helped in lens flare issues but still it looks a little too much white filter for my taste. Anyway I'd still like to use this camera since it doesn't have a red IR filter in front of the lens. If somebody wants to see the video I will post.
Thanks for reading,
you got it on the whole video? All whited out, or only at the beginning?

I find at given times, a full screen green pixalated video .

I find a full screen of black when started, until introduced to the shot of recording.

I find a full screen of white video due to over exposure, and corrects until video is introduced.

I do not think it will be a misaligned ribbon cable, unlocked and loose?

Lens A is great, lens B is alright will not have the bends , AOV. I the Lens D is not for all. and how you use, you can control the Horizontal to not bend.

Programs can manipulate the fish eye out, if need be?

You can load up your clip to youtube, and use the editor to trim a segment of a shorter time if you like to show?

they say using a white filter paper for photos will soften the shots, an old trick years ago?
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:51 AM
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[QUOTE=Isoprop;23638851]I believe your camera is functioning perfectly, but unfortunately not how you want it to
As soon as it starts to blink put in the card, wait until the yellow LED turns on, and then connect the camera to the PC.
Note1: Once the camera starts to blink, you have max. 30 seconds to insert the card and connect the camera to the PC. If you wait too long the camera will automatically turn off and you'll have to repeat the process.
QUOTE]
I get it...Sometimes you have to wait, sometimes you have to hurry

Wow, Isop, it worked. Got my first little test vid into Windows Movie Maker.
Thanks very much. I'm guessing I was usually too late re-inserting the card and re-connecting during the FW update process. Once the card flew about 10 feet across my room... all by itself.

I can figure out how to mount the cam on my RAdian...Now to figure out the best way to mount it on my IOM RC Sailboat. If anyone has seen this done before, please direct me to any threads.. otherwise I'll probably be reporting on results in the IOM thread. My guess is that I'll have focusing problems if I want to see what's going on on the deck and with the sails, but that's more fun for later!!

Thanks again. You guys are making this a good experience for an aging geek.

Fred
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 07:14 AM
ptg
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#3 camera thread still active?

Hi,

I need one info, please:

My friend has received #3 camera and date can be adjusted, time stamp not ( start from 00:00 ). We tried all combinations, program 808setclock as well.

Is any body here competent for #3 thread or can provide me solution on PM?
#3 thread is not active.

Thank You in advance.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg View Post
Hi,
I need one info, please:
My friend has received #3 camera and date can be adjusted, time stamp not ( start from 00:00 ). We tried all combinations, program 808setclock as well.
Is any body here competent for #3 thread or can provide me solution on PM?
#3 thread is not active.
Thank You in advance.
http://www.chucklohr.com/808/C3/index.html
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 07:32 AM
ptg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VideoKing View Post
My friend,
I know Chuck since we started to use, test, develop this tiny cameras.
But this problem is unknown.
Please PM me, I do not want to mess on our #16 thread.
Thank You for understanding.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg View Post
My friend,
I know Chuck since we started to use, test, develop this tiny cameras.
But this problem is unknown.
Please PM me, I do not want to mess on our #16 thread.
Thank You for understanding.
You are completely right - we don't want to mess up this thread with totally off topic subjects. There's enough of that already from a certain user... However, I'll make an exception in the hope that this may help others in knowing where to look.

Your problem is very well known and Chuck also posted solutions on his thread.

For the sake of anyone else who asks the same question, the best place to ask for help is the Mega Keyfob Camera thread.
It is not an easy task to remove the timestamp from these aging #3 cameras. You have to patch the firmware.
I wrote two detailed articles on how to do it many moons ago:
Hardware method
Software method

I don't know if the ISP USB programming tool is still available, but my patch software certainly is. I'm afraid I also can't support my project any more - it's just too old, and I have no more interest in these low-resolution cameras.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 07:55 AM
ptg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
You are completely right - we don't want to mess up this thread with totally off topic subjects. There's enough of that already from a certain user... However, I'll make an exception in the hope that this may help others in knowing where to look.

Your problem is very well known and Chuck also posted solutions on his thread.

For the sake of anyone else who asks the same question, the best place to ask for help is the Mega Keyfob Camera thread.
It is not an easy task to remove the timestamp from these aging #3 cameras. You have to patch the firmware.
I wrote two detailed articles on how to do it many moons ago:
Hardware method
Software method

I don't know if the ISP USB programming tool is still available, but my patch software certainly is. I'm afraid I also can't support my project any more - it's just too old, and I have no more interest in these low-resolution cameras.
Iso, helpful as always.
This methods are so complicated.
I have tried (in the meantime) with hard reset and now is ok.
Thank You
OVER & OUT
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Last edited by ptg; Dec 28, 2012 at 08:06 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 08:21 AM
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I'd have thought the easiest way to remove the time stamp is to buy a #16. This new firmware seems to be fantastic so far, I find it hard to believe what we can do with these little cheap cams. Having said that apart from playing with the features when it comes to day to day use and flying footage I tend to stick to stock settings.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 08:32 AM
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Sorry if this question has been asked before, but are people gluing the D lens to reinforce it better? I can't find it in the thread and remember people hot gluing the D lens.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 08:52 AM
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[QUOTE=Metman;23639622]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I believe your camera is functioning perfectly, but unfortunately not how you want it to
As soon as it starts to blink put in the card, wait until the yellow LED turns on, and then connect the camera to the PC.
Note1: Once the camera starts to blink, you have max. 30 seconds to insert the card and connect the camera to the PC. If you wait too long the camera will automatically turn off and you'll have to repeat the process.
QUOTE]
I get it...Sometimes you have to wait, sometimes you have to hurry

Wow, Isop, it worked. Got my first little test vid into Windows Movie Maker.
Thanks very much. I'm guessing I was usually too late re-inserting the card and re-connecting during the FW update process. Once the card flew about 10 feet across my room... all by itself.

I can figure out how to mount the cam on my RAdian...Now to figure out the best way to mount it on my IOM RC Sailboat. If anyone has seen this done before, please direct me to any threads.. otherwise I'll probably be reporting on results in the IOM thread. My guess is that I'll have focusing problems if I want to see what's going on on the deck and with the sails, but that's more fun for later!!

Thanks again. You guys are making this a good experience for an aging geek.

Fred
I'm glad you got it figured out, but what threw me was the fact your FW was still on the card after the FW loaded. Since you just received your camera, it should have come with the latest V3 boot loader installed, which automatically deletes the FW from the memory card after the update process is completed, so there's no need to manually erase it with all the card removal/replace shenanigans! Maybe your camera was from older stock and had the older boot loader still on it?

The boot loader version in your camera is reported by the Windows GUI Nr16Setup program when you select your camera and then click the "Tools" button (see attached pic). If you don't have the V3 boot loader installed, it's available here on the FW download page (post #4). It installs EXACTLY like a FW file, although when you installed it, the boot loader file will still remain on the card this one time because the old boot loader is still functional until you reboot the camera after the new boot loader is installed. So before using the card, you will need to go through that same card removal/reinsertion shenanigans one last time to delete that boot loader file. Alternatively, you could turn off the camera, then turn it back on. This will re-install the boot loader, but this time it's already installed and running, so it will delete the boot loader file just like a FW file. Then the camera will be ready for use immediately after the installation process ends and the yellow LED lights up steady.

There's a handful of RC boat forums here in RCGroups (you can find ALL the forums available by clicking on the RCGroups link in the thread header). Here's the section for RC boats, but just be creative to mount the camera by any means you can dream up where it will give the view you want. Sailboats don't have the motor vibration issues like powered aircraft, so the main thing is to not have it fall off or get submerged. Maybe water-proof tape, Velcro, mechanical clamp of some kind. Or attached to a foam block for floatation, just in case it DOES come off! You'll think of something if one of the threads I linked don't have any help.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Dec 28, 2012 at 09:27 AM. Reason: added RC boat thread link
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