The #16 now has two functions that can be used to make time lapse videos, namely Time-Lapse Photos and Video Frame Rate. But how is it done? Here's the easiest way I've found when using the Video Frame Rate method with AviDemux v2.5.6, the free cross-platform editor that runs on Windows, Linux, and MAC computers.

Video Frame Rate method:

This method simply records at your choice of a slower frame rate, and then you play it back at a faster rate to get the speed up. In addition to the normal 30 fps frame rate, v0.58 and higher firmware gives options for recording at 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 fps. The video playback speed can be increased with many editing tools, but I'll just give details on doing it with the free editor, AviDemux, which can directly import the camera's native MOV or AVI files, and output the video at a different frame rate with no re-encoding of the video (i.e. no quality loss). I keep the playback rate at 30 fps to keep things simple. This will produce videos that playback with the following speed-ups:

Recorded Frame Rate ... Speed-up (at 30 fps playback)
5 fps* .................................... 6x*
10 fps .................................... 3x
15 fps .................................... 2x
20 fps .................................. 1.5x
25 fps .................................. 1.2x

*NOTE: The 5 fps frame rate has inherent unusual recording and playback properties which causes the audio and video tracks to both play back at 30 fps, which results in the video being accelerated by a factor of 6. The result is the accelerated video is finished long before the audio track, giving the impression some video was lost. In reality, the entire video portion is there during playback, but it is drastically out of sync with the audio. This is a bug with only the 5fps setting, and a fix for it has not yet been identified. The other frame rate settings will play the video in sync with the audio, but the motion will also move in "jump steps" due to the slower frame rate. A work around is to strip the audio off the 5 fps native video, and the playback will stop when the video is finished.


The process is pretty simple:

1. Boot AviDemux and load your video.
   
   
2. Set the Video output mode to "Copy" and the output Format to "MP4" to assure compatibility with most players and editors (see Pic #1)
   
   
3. Except when the recorded frame rate is set for 5 sec., select "Video/Frame Rate..." menu item, and at the prompt, check the "Use Custom Value" box and enter "30" in the Frame Rate box. Click "OK" to continue (see Pic #2). Note: This step can be omitted when using the 5 fps rate because it will already play back at 30 fps!
   
   
4. Select the "Audio/Main Track" menu item and toggle the output to "None". Click "OK" to remove the sound track from the final video (see Pic #3). This needs to be done because the audio will be out of sync in the sped-up video.
   
   
5. Select "File/Save/Save Video" menu item (see Pin #4). When the prompt appears, give your output file a name and destination folder. Be SURE to add the ".MP4" suffix to the file name (e.g. TestFile[U].MP4/u])! The program does not do this for you. The file will be intact if you forget, but you will need to rename the file with the "MP4" suffix before it can be played or edited.
   
   
6. That's it! You're Done. The video will be output in a matter of seconds since there is no re-encoding to be done.

This method produces "mild" speed up and is best suited for action sequences less than 30 minutes recording time, or when smoother motion is desired. For longer duration events, the Time Lapse Photo Method may be the better choice.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

The #16 now has two functions that can be used to make time lapse videos, namely Time-Lapse Photos and Video Frame Rate. But how is it done? Here's the easiest way I've found when using the Video Frame Rate method with free editing tools (Windows PCs).

Video Frame Rate method:

under construction

Tom, for Linux lovers there's also this command:

mencoder mf://input_files*.jpg -mf w=1280:h=720:fps=30:type=jpg -ovc lavc -lavcopts vcodec=mpeg4:mbd=2:trell -oac copy -o output_file.avi

- w, h, and fps deal with output size and frames per seconds

Originally Posted by l.aluffi

Tom, for Linux lovers there's also this command:

mencoder mf://input_files*.jpg -mf w=1280:h=720:fps=30:type=jpg -ovc lavc -lavcopts vcodec=mpeg4:mbd=2:trell -oac copy -o output_file.avi

- w, h, and fps deal with output size and frames per seconds

Thanks... something for those who prefer a console command line method. The Frame Rate Method I posted will (or should) also run on LINUX and MAX computers with a GUI editing interface, assuming they can run the versions of the AviDemux editor compiled for those platforms.

I search up and down but can't seem to find what I need. My #11 is getting tired and I'm getting a #16 v2 with Lens D. I'm wondering if the CMOS sensor thread is the same size as the #11 so that I can unscrew my #11 Lens B element (NOT the entire module) and screw onto the #16 (assuming I can break the glue on the #16 lens module without damage)?

Filmed entirely using four 808 #16 cameras

T-6 Texan Warbird Ride (9 min 29 sec)

Testing the camera in the MicroQuad this weekend.

BSRC MicroQuad FPV - Maiden Flight (2 min 0 sec)

It performs really well, and be able to set 4:3 in the AV-OUT is very good as it fills completely the goggles image. It also behaved very well in low light

Originally Posted by Race Miata

I search up and down but can't seem to find what I need. My #11 is getting tired and I'm getting a #16 v2 with Lens D. I'm wondering if the CMOS sensor thread is the same size as the #11 so that I can unscrew my #11 Lens B element (NOT the entire module) and screw onto the #16 (assuming I can break the glue on the #16 lens module without damage)?

I think they both have a 7mm thread, but why bother swapping a lens and risk damage when you have a choice of three lenses (possibly soon to be 4) you can pick from with the #16? There is no "lens B", per se, for the #11, and the lenses for the #16 are the result of much searching for the best performing lenses for the camera.

Originally Posted by savage 40

Filmed entirely using four 808 #16 cameras
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5Vwx8IlIEI&sns=em

NICE! It looked really good at full screen at 720p, even after going through YouTube processing.

In been really pleasantly surprised at the quality, for such a cheap camera its takes very nice footage. Can get a little muddy sometimes, but colours are good and detail is awesome for the size.

Originally Posted by savage 40

Filmed entirely using four 808 #16 cameras
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5Vwx8IlIEI&sns=em

Can you give more details? Where did you mount them? How did you mount them? That's almost unbelievable that it's all the keychain cameras!

Originally Posted by IceWind

Testing the camera in the MicroQuad this weekend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7znVsR75TVc

It performs really well, and be able to set 4:3 in the AV-OUT is very good as it fills completely the goggles image. It also behaved very well in low light

Very interesting! I am about to maiden my FPV rig soon, using the #16 as FPV camera.
How did you record the FPV video?

/Jan

Now I want FPV. What type of equipment are you using with the 808 #16?

@jhi, It was the camera itself recording.
I'm feeding it 5v from the Flight Controller just to make sure it doesn't power-off during flight.
Image is not at it's best because it was overcasted and dark. (at 15:30 sun is gone.. )
The GoPro HD1 doesn't perform much different from that, I actually made one PFV flight after this one with the
GoPro and I can post it here for comparison.

@quitcherbitchen, check here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1717836
Detailed construction and all gear listed. But don't use my video gear as example as I just wanted to re-use some old TX/RX I had. Range is pretty limited so my next step is to change to 100mW 5.8Ghz.

Originally Posted by jdr00ejr

Can you give more details? Where did you mount them? How did you mount them? That's almost unbelievable that it's all the keychain cameras!

.
I was thinking yesterday as to if anyone had done that... I can imagine running around turning all the little dears on before flight...
Certainly is a practical way to use these things.

Mounted with nothing but package tape .. Notice on the wingtip, you will see the cam with the external power supply about 6" behind it. I just tape the living snot out of them as I don't want to have them fly off an injure someone.. The rear stab also had external pack.. The two on the canopy and in front of the cockpit facing out had no external and also just taped on.. The whole flight was 31 minutes..
Mounting GoPro's out there require much paperwork and sign offs.. These the a&p saw my attachment job and gave us the go ahead..

I went up a few weeks ago to get ideas and figure what to highlight for the folks that run that gig.. This time I was on the ground and I turned on the cameras after the run up and right before flight. You will see one above the front passenger's head.. And one ahead of the windshield