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Old Dec 01, 2012, 04:15 AM
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Azuritko's Avatar
Slovakia
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Originally Posted by midelic View Post
That battery with your specifications(5 hours and still small, and best from ebay and free shipping)is not invented .....yet.
So what is the best next option? And maybe 3 hours can be enough. I never have bigger LIPO than 250 mAh so I need some recommendations to have something to start searching with. I do not need it to be small as camera is, but if there is option to have maybe 2000 mAh battery 5x10 cm or 8x20 cm I want the smaller one.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 04:54 AM
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The Fens, Britain
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Originally Posted by fierce View Post
... my computer skills stop at Turing ...
That's not so bad

Sorry.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 05:15 AM
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Rubis's Avatar
France, Aquitaine, Blaye
Joined Jan 2010
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Connector JST

Quote:
Originally Posted by sidneylopsides View Post
Does anyone know what the battery connector is? I'd like to make an extension/splitter that will plug in.
Hello

I believe that it is of 2 mm JST



@+++
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 05:33 AM
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Germany, lake of Konstanz
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Maybe we're talking about two different things. The camera's video output frame in video out mode is locked at 4:3... no way to change that. So on a 16:9 display there will always be black bars left and right, unless the frame is artificially stretched by your TV to fill the full width, and most HD TVs can do that. You FPV goggles may not have that capability. Or the TV can fill that width by zooming in on the native frame, but then you lose part of the image in the vertical direction unless it is vertically compressed. Most TV's just crop the height of the image, but your goggles may not do that either.

The camera can ONLY put it's native 16:9 image into the locked 4:3 video out frame (producing black bars top and bottom), or stretch that 16:9 image vertically to make it 4:3 and fill the entire 4:3 frame in the video out stream. Whatever happens after that to resize it must be done by the display device.
Ok, understand so far. But why are then still vertical bars left and right on a 4:3 dsplay such as FatShark (native resolution 640 x 480 pixels) and other 4:3 displays or frame grabbers??

Regards, Gerd
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 05:34 AM
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Leeds, UK
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Thanks for that, it looks like the right connector.

Battery wise, something like the one from the Galaxy S3 or note?
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 05:55 AM
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Germany
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Originally Posted by Azuritko View Post
So what is the best next option? And maybe 3 hours can be enough. I never have bigger LIPO than 250 mAh so I need some recommendations to have something to start searching with. I do not need it to be small as camera is, but if there is option to have maybe 2000 mAh battery 5x10 cm or 8x20 cm I want the smaller one.
The #16 runs (under best conditions) about 40 minutes with the inbuilt 250 mAh Lipo. That means it consumes about 6,25 mAh per minute. Multiply Your wished operating-time in minutes with 6,25, eventually add 50 to 100 % to compensate for capacity-loss under adverse operating-conditions like low-temperature or aging of battery and search the internet for a 1s-lipo with the calculated capacity.
George
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 06:31 AM
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Slovakia
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Originally Posted by fastguy View Post
The #16 runs (under best conditions) about 40 minutes with the inbuilt 250 mAh Lipo. That means it consumes about 6,25 mAh per minute. Multiply Your wished operating-time in minutes with 6,25, eventually add 50 to 100 % to compensate for capacity-loss under adverse operating-conditions like low-temperature or aging of battery and search the internet for a 1s-lipo with the calculated capacity.
George
Thank you for good answer.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 08:30 AM
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Can anyone help me with the motion detect feature? I'm running the latest firmware (0.58) but it seems very unreliable. Most of the time it will just record normally instead of waiting for motion. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't it seems. I've seen Tom's posts about bugs in the firmware so maybe that's it? Just wondering if I'm doing something wrong or not. Thanks
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 09:45 AM
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United States, MA, Walpole
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Originally Posted by Azuritko View Post
Can you or someone else recommend me LIPO battery which can power the camera for about 5 hours or more? But still as small as it can be. Best from ebay with free shipping. I have tested Li-ion 1800 mAh (from mobile phone) and it can power it only for 90 to 110 min. It was written earlier that Li-ion is not good because it is working with smaller voltage range or something like that, so the camera shuts off earlier than the battery is fully discharged.
Did you read the FAQs on this in post #3?
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sidneylopsides View Post
Does anyone know what the battery connector is? I'd like to make an extension/splitter that will plug in.
Did you read the FAQs on this in post #3?
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Fintastic View Post
The official term for this is normally "anamorphic widescreen". It's widely used in SD broadcasts especially in Europe, and also anamorphic widescreen DVDs since 1990s. And normally it DOES increase video information (in relation to 4:3 letterbox).

But after judging the video output quality from 808, I am wondering if they did this by letterboxing video first, then removing the letterbox and stretching the remaining information to fill the frame, which makes typically no sense whatsoever... (But perhaps it's the only way to implement this in firmware updates, I have no idea.) Of course the better way would be just outputting the original 16:9 video full frame in anamorphic widescreen ("stretched into 4:3" if you will, that's the observed effect).
Yes, of course, but if I called it anamorphic widescreen the vast majority of the thread readers here would have no idea what that is. Any information increase from the camera's native 16:9 display has to be done either by using non-square pixels or interpolated (guessed at) information from the camera's native image. So there is no real additional image of the scene to be viewed... more data to be transmitted perhaps, but nothing new as far as more visible scene in the video.

I think the image in the video out 4:3 aspect ratio most likely IS anamorphic widescreen, but the video quality of the native image is vastly degraded by the conversion from the digital HD image into an analog composite video signal which the video out function uses. I say this because I can see no significant difference in the detail in the video out display between the 16:9 letter boxed display or the 4:3 full stretched version in the horizontal direction. The vertical stretching does add some vertical detail change due to the distortion of the image that is done to fill the frame.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Lordlucan View Post
Can anyone help me with the motion detect feature? I'm running the latest firmware (0.58) but it seems very unreliable. Most of the time it will just record normally instead of waiting for motion. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't it seems. I've seen Tom's posts about bugs in the firmware so maybe that's it? Just wondering if I'm doing something wrong or not. Thanks
You are experiencing exactly what I described...
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by GerdS View Post
Ok, understand so far. But why are then still vertical bars left and right on a 4:3 dsplay such as FatShark (native resolution 640 x 480 pixels) and other 4:3 displays or frame grabbers??

Regards, Gerd
I have no idea unless your displays have some over-scan area on the sides. Are you using PAL equipment? Do you get the same result when outputting in PAL mode versus NTSC mode?

If you've read the posts here, not everyone is reporting this problem.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 12:20 PM
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Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
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Hey Guys,

I'm slowly preping for a trip in the spring to Sleeping Bear dunes to go slope soaring. Part of that is getting some new #16 cams.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the mini USB on the #16 so that I can build a Banana Plug to mini USB parallel charging cord. I want to have 2 or 4 mini USB plugs all wired in parallel.

The flying site is about a mile out onto the dunes. So I will be taking an iCharger and a small battery to run it for topping off Nimhs and the Tx.

I want to be able to recharge the #16s off my iCharger with one simple cord. Last year I got 3 flights of over an hour each all on the same day.

So charging and memory cards would be easy to pack.

Joe
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joespeeder View Post
Hey Guys,

I'm slowly preping for a trip in the spring to Sleeping Bear dunes to go slope soaring. Part of that is getting some new #16 cams.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the mini USB on the #16 so that I can build a Banana Plug to mini USB parallel charging cord. I want to have 2 or 4 mini USB plugs all wired in parallel.

The flying site is about a mile out onto the dunes. So I will be taking an iCharger and a small battery to run it for topping off Nimhs and the Tx.

I want to be able to recharge the #16s off my iCharger with one simple cord. Last year I got 3 flights of over an hour each all on the same day.

So charging and memory cards would be easy to pack.

Joe
easily found using the search this thread tab- "USB wiring pinouts"
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