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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:58 PM
Chasin' that Neon Rainbow
Grantham Kid's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Grantham
Joined Oct 2012
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Originally Posted by Otto Dieffenbach View Post
This is one great camera. Truely the poor man's GoPro. I took mine out for three FPV flights today at Dave's Beach Carlsbad, Ca. I feed power to my camera from my 3s 1000mah FPV transmitter battery through a 7805 power regulator ($2 Radio Shack). Voltage reads 5.04v and I didn't add the capacitors. I used the GUI to configure the camera and update the FW version to 49. Auto shutoff function was configured off as was the sound. This thread is very helpful and I will recommend this camera to all my fellow FPVers. Will post my video from the third flight when uploaded.
It is easy enough to mute or lower the volume when producing your final vid so I leave my sound on. I put a tiny bit of tape over the mic hole which helps reduce wind noise a bit but it dosen't affect any voice or other noise pickup. I really don't think there even needs to be any hole for the mic from my tests.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:10 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by Grantham Kid View Post
I am expecting my new #16 V2 D lens cam any day now. Surely I won't have to upgrade the firmware in it when it arrives? I would expect it to already have the latest F-ware.
It may or may not have the v0.49 FW, but it's almost a trivial task to install new FW with or without the GUI. If you can copy a file and turn on the camera, you can update the firmware manually, or using the GUI, with a few mouse clicks! Besides, v0.49 is not the last FW that will be available, so you'll want to do it later if not sooner. Also, it may or may not have the most recent boot loader code installed, and you'll want to install that as well. The process is identical to installing new FW.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:16 PM
Joined Aug 2011
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Here's the video from today that I referenced a couple posts back.

FPV Mega Minor at Dave's Beach Carlsbad using 808 #16 V2 Camera by Otto Dieffenbach (7 min 9 sec)
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Australia, QLD, Gold Coast
Joined Jun 2012
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You may be thinking of Photolapse. It also requires installing third party codecs, like highly recommended x.264vfw for excellent H.264 compatible compression, and has a limit on output frame rates between 1 and 30, but it is very easy to use. It also has a toggle to create a reverse video from the pictures.
Thanks to those who responded re time lapse images to movie software...there's a few there for me to have a play with. Cheers
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Azuritko View Post
The camera arrived few days ago, it was really fast delivery. Everything works fine.
But I think the camera manual needs to be updated.

And I have a question. There is a cable in package for video out. There is "video out" pin and "GND" pin. I want to try to connect this with viewfinder from old camera, which has 3 important pins "+5 V", "GND", and "video". I will put there on first two pins of viewfinder 5V power supply separate from #16 camera. So what I have to connect with cable from #16 camera? Only "video" from viewfinder, to "video out" pin from #16 cable and leave "GND" pin from #16 cable without connection? Or this GND also has to be connected somewhere?
Hope someone understand my question. If not, tell me - ask me.
1. If you only want video-out, you only have to connect "GND" and "Video".
2 .If, at the same time, you want to power the camera from a USB source you need to connect the "GND" and "+5V" to your external power supply. You'll need two wires from the "GND" connection. One to the monitor and one to your external power supply.
3. If you want to connect the "video-out" to a monitor and your monitor can also output 5V ( 5%) and has a common GND, then you need to connect all three pins to your monitor. "Video-Out" and "GND" from the camera to the "Video-In" socket on the monitor and "+5V" to the "+5V" pin on your monitor.
4. If you want to connect the "video-out" to a monitor and your monitor can also output 5V ( 5%) but does not have a common GND, then you need to connect "Video-Out" and "GND" from the camera to "Video-In" socket on the monitor and "+5V" and "GND" to the "+5V" and "GND" pins or plug on your monitor.

To check if you have a common ground for 3 and 4, measure the resistance between the outer part of the video socket on the monitor and the - (negative) pin next to the +5V. If you have zero or maybe 0.1Ω resistance, then you have a common ground and most likely can use the connection method in 3.

This may sound complicated, but without knowing exactly how your monitor is labeled and if you require an external USB power supply or not it's difficult to explain.

To start with, I would just connect the "GND" and "Video-out". If that works, you can take things a step further. Video-out does not require +5V. You only need to connect the +5V if you require video-out for more than ~30 minutes.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 03:31 AM
Mtz
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Romania, PH, Ploiesti
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Originally Posted by NorCalMatCat View Post
That video was at 1 second, I wish the firmware had 1/2 second and 1/4th second, 10 seconds is nuts unless your trying to get a clip of an entire day going by or are doing something like aerial mapping....

It was on battery power on that one, just a 20 min drive.
OK, then don't use the timelapse for this type of video when the camera is moving. Record video and then speedup that video.
The timelapse is good only when camera is fixed.
Like another user, also I am using VirtualDub for this speedup of the recorded video, using decimate=6 and fps=180 and saving as avi (H264).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
52-53 MB/min when video quality (average data rate) is set on 7MB/sec. Don't use 10 MB/sec. because you won't notice any difference in video quality and your files will be proportionally larger.
When connected to external charger, I am using 10MB/s. But is my choice.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 04:03 AM
Chasin' that Neon Rainbow
Grantham Kid's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Grantham
Joined Oct 2012
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Thanks Tom, I'll see how it performs first before I decide if I need to muck with it.

Next question... IF I don't like the D lens, can it be safely removed? Thanks
Doug
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 04:31 AM
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 07:55 AM
Graham Dyer
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Johannesburg, South Africa
Joined Jul 2003
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Did some dive tests to check handling on my FPV plane, here's the video from the #16 velcro'd to the horizontal stab. Was quite a windy day.

DiveTests (2 min 0 sec)
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 08:14 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by Grantham Kid View Post
Thanks Tom, I'll see how it performs first before I decide if I need to muck with it.

Next question... IF I don't like the D lens, can it be safely removed? Thanks
Doug
Yes... read the developer's Instruction Manual in post #10 with pictures. There's also a couple of videos posted here in the last couple of weeks that shows how to swap out a lens module.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 08:30 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by Mtz View Post
OK, then don't use the timelapse for this type of video when the camera is moving. Record video and then speedup that video.
The timelapse is good only when camera is fixed.
Timelapse can be used for any motion... doesn't matter if the movement is caused by the camera moving or objects in the scene moving. The only issue is getting the right amount of speed up to show the changes in a viewable manner. Faster still image capture is one way, and decimating the native 30 fps video to delete equally spaced frames, then playing that back at faster frame rates is another way, though that wastes camera battery power and flash memory space in the process. A third option which eliminates the excess power and memory use is to have video shot at slower frame rates to begin, and then just speeding up the native video... saves editing time as well.

Change is in the wind...
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 08:41 AM
Graham Dyer
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Johannesburg, South Africa
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The still photos are 1.2MP and are quite poor quality, any way or plan to improve them?
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 09:09 AM
Mtz
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Timelapse can be used for any motion... doesn't matter if the movement is caused by the camera moving or objects in the scene moving. The only issue is getting the right amount of speed up to show the changes in a viewable manner.
Not only this. When the camera is moving the image is not so linear as, for example, when put the camera on a fixed place (tripod) and record some clouds on the sky. The clouds have a linear movement.
That chaotic movement of the camera or of the images from the front of camera will hurt the eyes. Is chaotic because duration is too long between frames.
Everybody can compare a timelapse from a car and a speedup video from the same car.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 09:42 AM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by pardus View Post
The still photos are 1.2MP and are quite poor quality, any way or plan to improve them?
The CMOS imager can only capture a 1280x720 (nominal) image since that's the size limit of the CMOS array. There's no way to improve it without using a new CMOS module with higher pixel count. But the camera has two photo mode frame size settings... one is 4:3 aspect ratio (1280x960) and one is 16:9 aspect ratio (1280x720). To get the 1280x960 image, the 1280x720 image has to be cropped on the sides to produce a 4:3 (960x720) image, and then that is upscaled to the larger 1280x960 image, which is slightly degraded due to the upsizing. To get the best sharpness and detail the camera is capable of delivering, set your photo mode to 1280x720 to get the native image.
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